ericem

To be honest I do not think so. Depends what size the one motor is and what size the two motors are. I had a hyper starter box with 1 big motor it did the job turning over the motor on my ST-1 when it was new easily. You also need a good battery pack. Gel cell is the best option.

xjqkz

eric damnit u're responses feel like that we're talking on messenger :P

I'm looking at these 2 here they pretty much seem to have the same specs is there really a difference?:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11556
<img src=http://www.amainhobbies.com/images/medium/ofn10245.jpg>

and

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5429
<img src=http://www.amainhobbies.com/images/medium/ofn10250.jpg>

oilmanbrown

What about this one? [link=http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_14&products_id=150]http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_14&products_id=150[/link]

bigden25

I've used both and the Rotor Start is much easier to use (IMO). And you can use a cordless drill if the battery goes down on the starter.

truggy man

I can realy recomand proline crowdpleaser for mugen to St-1. Its correct its thick, but I have had som hard crashes and high jump, and its still in perfect shape. No cracks. The original body is really something. The fron doesnt even fit to get in the clips.

This might come some sides to late, BUT.
Strapstart for stock engine is really a problem. Either the spring, owb or the cord.
For new to this car/engine its really a problem. The roto start is not better because the owb dont handle the torgue.

When it comes to starter box, I can just say that jombo was unlucky. This is a great box. (Ofna truggy starter)
Itchy bought the tt box, and did som modification to fit the chassis. I did the same but the engine in the box burnt.

What I am trying to say here is that the ST-1 is a great car, but for new to the car. They have to go through some really irritating things that the engineer at Thunder Tiger should have figured out, that will not last.

Mr.Slave

for everyone complaining the pinch is to tight.. crack your glow plug the first times you start it.. no problems. mine started right away..

Darkfae

Well, I finished my carbon/fiber project.
It was tougher than I thought, and I finally got a system down by the time I was finishing the parts.
I noticed that the rear shock tower has some flex to it, so I did the front tower differently. I left more material, and drilled a couple holes to lighten instead of following the pattern. I'm curious to see how the rear tower holds up. I may have to re-do it. (You can see the patch job on my fuel tank where I drilled through the front tower and the tank at the same time.)
The ackerman arm is done with the Saxton steering mod in mind.
The mud guards were an afterthought. We'll see how they hold up.
If your going to do this project, I HIGHLY suggest using a vacuum as you are cutting/grinding. Makes things clean.
I used Dremel cutting wheels for rough cuts, and then sanded/ground the rest to finish.
I have a pic of the material left over. The original sheet was 9"x12".

truggy man

Darkfae. This is really great works. Spared you for some option parts here

Darkfae

It saved me about $150, and it was fun.

mgtmadness2006

Looks good Darkfae. Now just do a rear chassis stiffener, fuel tank heat guard, and some parts for us and youll be all set.

mgtmadness2006

Them rear axle mud guards did you drill holes in the arms to get them to fit? Also would it be possible to also add on the bottom of the rear arms like you did in the front of it. and how about making a front upper arms support?

twomanytoys

Well I started doing my breakin doing the heat cycle method on the new LRP Spec3 and all I have to say is WOWWWWWWW. This engine is insane! After changing all my diff fluids for teh Axial to keep the fronts from pancaking I have to redo them with even thicker fluids because the fronts look like saucers once they break loose. I am extremly impressed with this engine and i have not even got it tuned for performance and its already better than my Axial. Running temps were about 215 so I have alot of tuning to go. This engine screams. I had alot of engines to choose from for under 200 and thanks to PatricBW I went with the LRP. It started right up adn with a tweak of the low speed needle it idled perfect. High speed was very rich. Couldnt get temps above 150 even with the head wrapped. I leaned it out a bit to get temps above 200. Running short wide open bursts it got no hotter than 215. I have read nothing but good about this engine so I am a believer and would recommend it to anyone looking for a great engine. Next purchase is a JP3 pipe.

oilmanbrown

Twomanytoys: what are you using for the exhaust extension? I bet that cuts down on oiling on the left rear.

twomanytoys

Its just an exhaust deflector that you can get from most hobby shops and yes it pretty mych eleminates all teh oil residue. I still get some splatter on the wing but not bad at all.

Darkfae

That's a good idea MGT. I think I'll do the upper and lower front arm supports.

I used existing holes to mount the guard. I removed the screw that holds the sway bar to the lower arm, and used a longer one with fuel tubing as a spacer. For the outer, I used a large thread wood srcew and screwed it into the existing hole there. (see pic)

As for the bottom of the rear arms, you could put some there I guess, but I wouldn't. Maybe lexan or something.

ItchyBum

HAH! You think its fast and has heaps of power now [sm=lol.gif] You just wait and see what it does when you put a good pipe on it lol, you will cream your jeans. These things have sooooo much power to burn, you will probably have to richen it up just to get traction

Mr.Slave

anybody have experience with the pro kit?

im thinking bout getting it for all he hop ups and then a bundle of spare parts haha.

mgtmadness2006

I have a Pro kit, but havent drove it yet.
and Darkfae I wanna see a rear chassis Stiffener.

ItchyBum

I run the PRO kit and its a lot better than the rtr once built. You should run the PRO and use the RTR for spares. I have 2 spare rtrs and i have all the diffs ready with different oils for racing (2 are lockers but). It doesnt come with heaps of hop ups it just has a few better parts like the a-arms and the red alloy toe plates and the wing mount and it comes with all the supsension tuning parts instead of just the ones that come on the car. Really it works out better buying the PRO cause the stock RTR servos and radio gear are crap and you want a better motor and pipe anyway so why not just buy it without them and put your own good ones on

Mr.Slave

well i have the rtr already.. i was gunna swap all the goodies on the rtr and keep the rest of the stuff for spare parts (since ordering a single part everytime it breaks adds up quickly in shipping..) i was thinking doing that or getting like a jammin kit or some other one. not sure

twomanytoys

Yes its crazy fast and I cant wait to get the JP3 pipe to really see what it can do.

Darkfae

Are you talking about the steel chassis brace, or the curvy aluminum thing near the motor?

mgtmadness2006

the one near the engine that goes from the rear tower area to the chassis.

ska8erj

i dont know how i did this but here it is





i broke the screw on the right and i have no idea how i did it[sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif]
it was one of the screws that held the wing mount on

i was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on how to get it out
any help would be appritiated

thanks in advance

Mr.Slave

looks like you can get a pair of pliers on there...