whoops........... i was only out by....... half a planet! hahaha

ROTFL

Cougar...
Here is a couple photos of the HoBao Hyper ST RTR, I purchased from NitroHouse. Hope this clears up the questions pertaining to the body. I can't wait for warm weather! I need to get this thing running/racing. Still really cold and snowy in Ohio.

Do you have any pics of them on ur hyper?

and thanks for the info squeeguk.....i looked them up online, seem to have a lot of stock. Also found another place up in camden town which isn't too far from me. maybe i'll stop by there sometime this week. I've pretty much made up my mind i want a Hyper now, i just dont know when i'll be getting it, but i think i'll start collecting parts for it now

Stagga-
no sorry mate i don't. I'm pretty hopeless with a camera + i dont even own one...lol

hey mate what shocks are using on the hyper st pro
and were they a straight fit

the extechs are beasts, the .24 is nasty

is there a 2speed conversion for the hyper st pro? anyone using it?

I'm running the jammin 16mm big bores. Awesome.

Hey guys, got 18 sets of Hyper ST carbon fibre towers and chassis centre braces.

Saves around 90 grams off the weight of the truck, which lowers the centre of gravity for better handling and being lighter means longer run times as you have to use the throttle less. Car feels nimble now compared to before, which was great anyway. I have done numerous races with these and have not had one breakage.

The complete set includes:

Front shock tower - 4mm carbon fibre
Rear shock tower - 4mm carbon fibre
Centre chassis brace - 5mm carbon fibre



Just send me a private message and I'll let you know the details.

Wahoooooo
Only 16 sets left

Looks great carbon fiber parts.

Thansk very much Ikka.

here's my hyper st

I've got my Hyper ST in bits and am going to give it a good service ie new spur gear, clutchbell, bearings, engine and servo's not sure about a couple of things though. What size of clutch bell should I use with my Axial 32. I'm thinking of using a 16 tooth one or even a 17 tooth one. I am also not sure about the standard clutch is there something out there that is better than the standard one. Also a bit confused with diff oils it ran 10,000 front 60,000 mid 3,000 back but I got quite bad understeer on dry gravel. That might have been down to the crappy macstar .28 taking ages to rev up onto the power band. I also heard alot of people changing the fuel tank what is the tank that works best.

Some have converted the tanks over to the Mugen. 10/60/3 doesn't sound right. You sure that is what you are running? We all know and love the great MACSTAR engine.

Yes that is the oils in it. It also has 30w in the shocks but the car bottoms out very very easy. I needed to put spacers in the springs but it makes it bouncy especially on the front and the back bottoms out and lifts the back of the car off the ground. I was going to put 50w all round. The macstar engine is in great condition no play in the conrod and smooth bearings good compression. The best I can get it to go is just a bit too delayed at the bottom mid range and top end is good but I have had it to the eyeballs with poor response so I have a 32 to go in it. Was thinking the 17t clutchbell might be good but having second thoughts due to my 28 being poor low down might go for the 16 or even 15 any info or feedback would be greatfull. I'm thinking of going with 5,000wt in the front 3,000wt in the back but not sure anymore what to do with the middle.

Re engine-

What % fuel are you using mate ?

25% Byron Gen2 fuel HPI R4 plug and a hyper tuned pipe for the 28. Thinking of getting the JP2 pipe for the Axial 32 is there any other pipe that is good for top end as the original is a bit dented now.

The thing about the Macstar engines is- My mate and I thought they were really good (getting back into the hobby) untill we went up against some half decent engines.
You could play around with the glo-plugs as well to get a good tune. But now you have the Axial i probably wouldnt bother.
What you may want to do is have a go at modding the Macstar engine for giggles. I have found it responds tomodding really well as my mate got into modding some of the cheaper engines we had lying around.


And if you stuff up the mod ? Its just a Macstar.


you would be surprised at how hard we got a Vertex engine going...lol

And get yourself the JP-4 pipe rather than the JP-2. Much better overall pipe and better on fuel too. It also seems to work with virtually every engine we have tried it on, so good for when you need to upgrade the engine in the future.

As for the Mac, I found that on my sons car, when I removed the pull start and put a bump start on, the engine ran a load better, it was like a different engine. As Kal said above, when you run against a good race 21, then you will see how poor the Mac actually is.

Hey sqeeguk,

I finally got some new hex drivers so i've started putting the sexy new carbon bits on my ride. just have to find a camera. . . lol

Sweet Kal, get some pics up mate.

I was thinking of modding the Mac star engine. It has a screw in the side just below the carb for a boost bottle it came out of the factory as a bump start engine. I did try getting a good tune with a number of plugs and found the R4 to suite it the best any hotter and it started to pre ignite (Bad for the conrod) so I tryed to tune it with that and also found it to be inconsistant but that might be the fuel tank. I didn't check to see if it had any shims in the head it is completely standard so I'm not sure if it would have. I have just got a new centre diff and set the oils at 5,000wt in the front 7,000wt in the centre and 3,000wt in the rear. I Also got new suspension pins wishbone and anti roll bars to take away all the play. And new MG995 servos and a 1500mha 6v battery. I'm going to go with the 16 tooth clutch bell and see how it goes. Also got a new shell and new bearings and wheels and tyres will post pics as it won't take me long to get it all dirty and scraped again.

K, with the Mac, try and use the Mccoy MC-9 plugs, I found these work a treat on these engines. Forget about the boost bottle, you gonna get not much return for a lot of work. If you need more power, get a decent race engine, you won't regret it.

Stick with the 14T clutch bell, I never ever felt the need to gear it up.I was clearing the doubles at Clanfield with a short run up with half throttle and sometimes less.

With regards the diffs, I have gone to much thicker oils and it has made a heck of a difference to the handling. I now run 10K front, 30k centre and 2k rear. With regards to the shocks, the oil you use depends totally on the surface of the track you running at. I now run Hong Nor Super Big Bores, but from memory, I used to run anywhere from 30 up to 55 depending, with slightly heavier on the front than the rear.

As for the servos, get rid of those MG-995's. All you need is a failure at speed on the steering or on the throttle and end up with a runaway, they are notoroius for failures. Save up a bit more and get some decent servos, like the Align's or the Savox.