the hyper st PRO thread!
#1701
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
I've already done the diff oil but I was actually thinking about the Savox servos it came down to 2 one was 12.5 Kg/cm with 0.08secs and the other 20Kg with 1.13secs both the same peice around £55 each is 12.5 Kg enough or should I go with the powerfull 20 Kg ones. Have you got any videos of your hyper with a proper racing engine in it. I was thinking if I am not happy with the Axial I will sell the 2 engines I have and try and get a Ninja MR28 but I can't find anywhere that sells them. Apart from America. Oh last time out I wrecked my spektrum 2.4G reciever as a little drip of water got in it is there any mods to make the radio box water tight or are there any after market ones out there.
#1702
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From: Camberley, UNITED KINGDOM
The 12.5 kgs is a lot quicker and will be strong enough. My Ace DS1015 that I use is the same and is plenty for my Hyper. You really need the steering speed when racing.
Unfortunately, I do not have any video of my car, but if you search on youtube, you should find loads of videos showing racing engines in the car. I woudl stick with a good race 21 instead of a 28, purely for the runtime. Nowadays a good race 21 is not that much slower than a good race 28 if at all. I have beaten guys who have been racing longer than me with my RB WS7 III while they were running OS 28's and the like.
As for the radio tray, unfortunately, we are stuck with what we have, or you could try one of the radio trays that other guys have used, including the Kyosho and the Hyper 8.5 box.
Unfortunately, I do not have any video of my car, but if you search on youtube, you should find loads of videos showing racing engines in the car. I woudl stick with a good race 21 instead of a 28, purely for the runtime. Nowadays a good race 21 is not that much slower than a good race 28 if at all. I have beaten guys who have been racing longer than me with my RB WS7 III while they were running OS 28's and the like.
As for the radio tray, unfortunately, we are stuck with what we have, or you could try one of the radio trays that other guys have used, including the Kyosho and the Hyper 8.5 box.
#1703

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From: shakopee, MN
ok folks iam have a blast with my st but i notice that the on a all out ful throttle burn out the all the power unloads to the front wheels, what can i do to make a even power load to front and back wheels.
#1705
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
What would be your top 3 engines and in what order for what reasons. I hear alot of the LRP engines the ninja MR engines not as much though and the RB and OS engines but don't hear the differences beween them if there is any. I've read that the RB engines are pretty much the favourite and the OS 21 V spec 2 is popular and the VZB. LRP have a spec 3 engine which I hear alot about but not much of the Ninja MR engines.
#1708
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From: Sydney, AUSTRALIA
I LOVE my OS vzb-v-spec and OS Speedtuned they're great engines but a bit much for my Noob level racing.
So i got a Go 3 port race engine with OS carby ( I always seem to have trouble with GO carbies ). i LOVE OS Carbies !
Nowhere near the power of the other two but a great engine for an entry level racer learning how to drive on a track.
Once i know what i'm doing, then i can throw the OS back in it.
So i got a Go 3 port race engine with OS carby ( I always seem to have trouble with GO carbies ). i LOVE OS Carbies !
Nowhere near the power of the other two but a great engine for an entry level racer learning how to drive on a track.
Once i know what i'm doing, then i can throw the OS back in it.
#1710
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From: Camberley, UNITED KINGDOM
The new Picco P7R Evo is an amazing engine, loads of bottom end and awseome run times. I did find the bottom a little too strong sometimes and changed the throttle exponential to smooth it out. I found I was just feathering the throttle coming out of bends and running wide with the power.
I have my secret weapon sitting waiting to be run in for the Nats this year, a Siim PGR 21. Bascially one of the last engines that Siim made based on the Sirio Sti. Apparently it's a ballistic cruise missile. Can't wait to try it out, so beautifully made and finished.
Siim have now changed to Picco based engines, which is no bad thing either.
I have a V-spec which blew a rod on the 2 gallon mark, 3rd tank after putting in new bearings?????? Stonking engine though when it did run, but I wasn't so happy about it's fragility. This is one of those engines that you find amazing being as it's just a 3 porter, as it has power all through the curve and screams up top, and nice and smooth too. Depends who you talk to, some people love them, others just hate them. Hopefully with a new piston and liner and a new Speed rod in, it should be better when I eventually can be arsed to run it in and try it again.
My RB WS7 III on the other hand is also a stonking engine, but a lot weaker on bottom than the Picco I mentioned. When I geared it 13T CB and put on the JP-4, it really came alive. Also, easily 10 minute stops on this engine if you drive properly.
I also have a GRP 21 tuned. A great little engine too, very nice and smooth power band, with decent run times. Really screams up top, just like the WS7, but with more bottom and mid.
Another engine to add to the mix is the Nosram 21 RR, I have the previous version Evo in my Son's Hyper ST Pro and it's a great little engine too, outclassed by the ones mentioned above, but the RR is in a different league to that and really quick all round again.
Difficult choice choosing a new engine as almost everyone seems to make good ones nowadays. Get to your local track and see what the other guys are running and why?
I have my secret weapon sitting waiting to be run in for the Nats this year, a Siim PGR 21. Bascially one of the last engines that Siim made based on the Sirio Sti. Apparently it's a ballistic cruise missile. Can't wait to try it out, so beautifully made and finished.
Siim have now changed to Picco based engines, which is no bad thing either.
I have a V-spec which blew a rod on the 2 gallon mark, 3rd tank after putting in new bearings?????? Stonking engine though when it did run, but I wasn't so happy about it's fragility. This is one of those engines that you find amazing being as it's just a 3 porter, as it has power all through the curve and screams up top, and nice and smooth too. Depends who you talk to, some people love them, others just hate them. Hopefully with a new piston and liner and a new Speed rod in, it should be better when I eventually can be arsed to run it in and try it again.
My RB WS7 III on the other hand is also a stonking engine, but a lot weaker on bottom than the Picco I mentioned. When I geared it 13T CB and put on the JP-4, it really came alive. Also, easily 10 minute stops on this engine if you drive properly.
I also have a GRP 21 tuned. A great little engine too, very nice and smooth power band, with decent run times. Really screams up top, just like the WS7, but with more bottom and mid.
Another engine to add to the mix is the Nosram 21 RR, I have the previous version Evo in my Son's Hyper ST Pro and it's a great little engine too, outclassed by the ones mentioned above, but the RR is in a different league to that and really quick all round again.
Difficult choice choosing a new engine as almost everyone seems to make good ones nowadays. Get to your local track and see what the other guys are running and why?
#1711
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
I have not raced before and did'nt take into consideration running time I take it 28's are just too greedy on fuel for the track. I do want to get into racing but if I did I would want a competative car capable of winning races. Ive seen Hyper ST Pro's with diffs from the Kyosho ST and chassis stiffners from the Kyosho aswell and fitted with different tanks. Are these mods esential or just preferance. As I was going to go with my Hyper completely original with the Axial 32 and a JP tuned pipe. But I am now thinking maybe I should start looking at the most powerfull 21 I can get my hands on. I tried it with my old thunder tiger pro 21 R engine and it was better than the Mac 28 much more lively at mid range and great top power supposed to be very similar to the OS 21RZ engine but my Carb kept coming lose. I then looked on youtube wow some of these 21's really are fast seen an RB, Ninja and a Picco and have to admit they really are something else compared to the cheaper engines. Are the Sirio engines up there with the top engines also are the 28's a waste of time as the engine size is a good increase I would have thought the extra torque through the band would be noticeable.
#1712
Picco definitely make the strongest .21's when it comes to power... for a Hyper ST i would say either a good .28 or a Picco .21...I have had the Sirio engines, they run nice and make good mid and top, but they really lack bottom end compared tot he Picco's...for a Hyper ST you need torque as it is a bigger heavier truck.... If i was running a Buggy or a ultra light truggy I would consider a Sirio engine, but for a hyper ST it just doesn't have enough punch for my taste...as a rule any Sirio engine is going to have a soft smooth bottom, and as a rule a Picco has a strong snappy bottom...Sirio's rev good but they sure don't have the balls of a Picco !
#1713
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From: Camberley, UNITED KINGDOM
With the Hyper ST, I have lightened mine substantially. It's now just a little heavier than a X2 CRT. The Hyper ST is still a competitive truck. I was quicker with my ST than I am with my XT8 and am seriously considering changing back.
The only mods I made are milled the chassis, changed to the Hong Nor Super Big Bores, carbon fibre shock towers and centre chassis brace. Other than that, it's stock with the same diffs, etc. I don't think changing the diffs would make that big a difference, but then again, I've only ever driven with the standard diffs.
I am working on making some Ti chassis front and rear braces, the Kyosho ones don't fit straight on the ST. They need to be cut.
If you going racing, stick with the 21, everyone here in the UK uses 21's, better run time and just as good performance, sometimes better as the power is more manageable than a brute 28.
Remember that the Siim is no ordinary Sirio, it has been polished, balanced and slightly reworked and I can tell you now that it is strong on the bottom, not as strong as the Picco, but still very strong, I found them nicer and easier to drive smoother because of the smoother power band than the Picco. Don't get me wrong, I love the Picco's, like I say, Siim are now basing their engines on the Picco's, so you should have the best of both worlds. I can't wait to try one............
It all comes down to your driving style and what suits you best.
The only mods I made are milled the chassis, changed to the Hong Nor Super Big Bores, carbon fibre shock towers and centre chassis brace. Other than that, it's stock with the same diffs, etc. I don't think changing the diffs would make that big a difference, but then again, I've only ever driven with the standard diffs.
I am working on making some Ti chassis front and rear braces, the Kyosho ones don't fit straight on the ST. They need to be cut.
If you going racing, stick with the 21, everyone here in the UK uses 21's, better run time and just as good performance, sometimes better as the power is more manageable than a brute 28.
Remember that the Siim is no ordinary Sirio, it has been polished, balanced and slightly reworked and I can tell you now that it is strong on the bottom, not as strong as the Picco, but still very strong, I found them nicer and easier to drive smoother because of the smoother power band than the Picco. Don't get me wrong, I love the Picco's, like I say, Siim are now basing their engines on the Picco's, so you should have the best of both worlds. I can't wait to try one............
It all comes down to your driving style and what suits you best.
#1714
ORIGINAL: squeeguk
With the Hyper ST, I have lightened mine substantially. It's now just a little heavier than a X2 CRT. The Hyper ST is still a competitive truck. I was quicker with my ST than I am with my XT8 and am seriously considering changing back.
The only mods I made are milled the chassis, changed to the Hong Nor Super Big Bores, carbon fibre shock towers and centre chassis brace. Other than that, it's stock with the same diffs, etc. I don't think changing the diffs would make that big a difference, but then again, I've only ever driven with the standard diffs.
I am working on making some Ti chassis front and rear braces, the Kyosho ones don't fit straight on the ST. They need to be cut.
If you going racing, stick with the 21, everyone here in the UK uses 21's, better run time and just as good performance, sometimes better as the power is more manageable than a brute 28.
Remember that the Siim is no ordinary Sirio, it has been polished, balanced and slightly reworked and I can tell you now that it is strong on the bottom, not as strong as the Picco, but still very strong, I found them nicer and easier to drive smoother because of the smoother power band than the Picco. Don't get me wrong, I love the Picco's, like I say, Siim are now basing their engines on the Picco's, so you should have the best of both worlds. I can't wait to try one............
It all comes down to your driving style and what suits you best.
With the Hyper ST, I have lightened mine substantially. It's now just a little heavier than a X2 CRT. The Hyper ST is still a competitive truck. I was quicker with my ST than I am with my XT8 and am seriously considering changing back.
The only mods I made are milled the chassis, changed to the Hong Nor Super Big Bores, carbon fibre shock towers and centre chassis brace. Other than that, it's stock with the same diffs, etc. I don't think changing the diffs would make that big a difference, but then again, I've only ever driven with the standard diffs.
I am working on making some Ti chassis front and rear braces, the Kyosho ones don't fit straight on the ST. They need to be cut.
If you going racing, stick with the 21, everyone here in the UK uses 21's, better run time and just as good performance, sometimes better as the power is more manageable than a brute 28.
Remember that the Siim is no ordinary Sirio, it has been polished, balanced and slightly reworked and I can tell you now that it is strong on the bottom, not as strong as the Picco, but still very strong, I found them nicer and easier to drive smoother because of the smoother power band than the Picco. Don't get me wrong, I love the Picco's, like I say, Siim are now basing their engines on the Picco's, so you should have the best of both worlds. I can't wait to try one............
It all comes down to your driving style and what suits you best.
that makes sense UK and North America have very different style of tracks.... Here we have huge jumps with short runs to them, in a big rig like a Hyper you need punch......When I ran my Hyper on a flatter track it did good, but when i ran it on a Supercross style track it didn't do so well..... Sirio's are notorious for breaking cranks, which is why Siim now are Nova based.......
#1715
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From: Clinton Township,
NJ
Speed lover,
It is all about you and how you drive. Some ppl just flat out love the .28 engine and won't budge cause bigger is better ;-). I have a .21 VZB V-Spec here in the states (Run mostly on NON-SUPERCROSS STYLE TRACK) and it is fine. PLenty of power for my type of driving style and I do just fine against the .28.
As far as the changes you mentioned in one of your post is all preference. Squeek carbon fiber upgrades make the truck lighter which is a nice thing for sure. The fuel tank changes to a mugen tank have been said to fix the engine being to lean. The fuel tank posts I changed out as they broke to easily. Fabricated some out of Delrin. Also changed out the radio and battery try to the Hyper 8.5 tray. Again most of these mods are personel preference. And its most driver.
Good luck with whatever you decide. I am sure it will be fun and that is the bottom line.
It is all about you and how you drive. Some ppl just flat out love the .28 engine and won't budge cause bigger is better ;-). I have a .21 VZB V-Spec here in the states (Run mostly on NON-SUPERCROSS STYLE TRACK) and it is fine. PLenty of power for my type of driving style and I do just fine against the .28.
As far as the changes you mentioned in one of your post is all preference. Squeek carbon fiber upgrades make the truck lighter which is a nice thing for sure. The fuel tank changes to a mugen tank have been said to fix the engine being to lean. The fuel tank posts I changed out as they broke to easily. Fabricated some out of Delrin. Also changed out the radio and battery try to the Hyper 8.5 tray. Again most of these mods are personel preference. And its most driver.
Good luck with whatever you decide. I am sure it will be fun and that is the bottom line.
#1716
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From: Columbus, IN
Gentlemen I recently purchased a RTR hyper st and really I am just getting used to it as my other nitros were 1/10th scale . I am impressed with everything but ....you guessed it the (legendary or so I read on here) mac 28 . Even with this slug powering it it is quite a bit better than anything I have had as of yet. Just curious though and I know there are a lot of variables if all is equal is a truggy faster than a buggy or vice versa ?
#1717
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From: fresno,
CA
hello, as the months have past ive posted a few questions on this thread and have gotton good advice both times. well heres my next set of questions. i bught a hyper st rtr from nirohouse a few months ago. well i havent even gotton to break it in yet due to the fact that i first jammed the pull start, then when i took it off to inspect it the spring went haywire on me and i couldnt, for the life of me, get it back coiled up right. so i bought a new one from horizon and it got here last week then i put it in and my mom drove me up to my favorite bashing site and turns out i forgot to put the little starting shaft back in when i put in the new pull starter. well today i was all set to get her going and after a few issues w/ trying to get the feul to the carb and vapor lock. i got it started. now i looked in what says is the manuel that came w/ the truck and i swear there isnt a word about anything in it. no intro, no radio description, no matenience tips, starting tips, needle setting standards. gearing or maybe differencial dismantilling directions and no problems getting her going solutions. only thing it is. is a more detailed exploded view of the building process.all picture no words. now ive noticed that some stores have the hyper st rtr and its a red and black and white truck w/ no body suppotrs. and theres some ads that say rtr but have the option of getting it w/ the pro body. and on the cover of the so called manuel its reads "hyper st rtr w/ pro performance" and then says 1/8 scale gas powered racing truggy and below that it says instructions manuel. and then theres a picture of a st on it , no body, and its all blurry. and i cant seem to download any of the info from the hobao site cause my msntv wont download anything for some reason. so after explaining all that does anyone know what im missing if anything and what the correct needle settings should be high, low, and idle. another thing what does anyone use to keep the battiers or the hump pacin its stupid little case(kinda dumb not having an inclosed receiver battery pack...oh well)? you know ive always wanted a hyper st ever since i saw my first one about a year ago. and im not disapointed that i bought one. i just wish it had better info on and about the truck like the losi's do. well i guess ive poured my heart out enough. any info will be greatly appreciated, cause you know the faster i know the sooner i can get-er-goin: )thanx in advance, clay unruh
#1718
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From: Sydney, AUSTRALIA
Elviss- Well the lap record at my local track was done by a buggy driver, but he's the best in the country...lol
Cougar- I take it your hyper st came with the Macstar engine ? It is a pretty tight motor when brand new, and when breaking in a new motor you should pre-heat it with a heat gun, hair dryer or blow torch (my fav and easily transportable) to loosen it up making it easier to start. After putting a quarter gallon through it you shouldn't need to pre-heat it anymore. semper fi
Cougar- I take it your hyper st came with the Macstar engine ? It is a pretty tight motor when brand new, and when breaking in a new motor you should pre-heat it with a heat gun, hair dryer or blow torch (my fav and easily transportable) to loosen it up making it easier to start. After putting a quarter gallon through it you shouldn't need to pre-heat it anymore. semper fi
#1719
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From: Bay, BERMUDA
for those guys here who have built the pro kits.....what measurement of tools do they require? metric or imperial? also....a good recommendation on an engine (not for racing). looking for something with good bottom end and mid range power. budget is $180-$220. also what pipe to go with it...i see a nice JP-2 on ebay for a good price. Should i look for an engine that has an overall good powerband and then get a tuned pipe to enhance the top or bottom end?
#1720
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From: Camberley, UNITED KINGDOM
Hey Mate
The Hyper ST is all metric thank goodness.
As for engines, get yourself a good 28 or even a good 21. Not sure of prices on that side of the pond, but an LRP 30 might be a good bet or even a Nosram 30. I belive they are pretty much the same engine. The previous LRP 28 was a belter for the money.
JP-2 is a good pipe, the JP-3 produces the most power of the JP pipes, but the best overall is the JP-4, more power than the 2 and much better economy than the 3.
The Hyper ST is all metric thank goodness.
As for engines, get yourself a good 28 or even a good 21. Not sure of prices on that side of the pond, but an LRP 30 might be a good bet or even a Nosram 30. I belive they are pretty much the same engine. The previous LRP 28 was a belter for the money.
JP-2 is a good pipe, the JP-3 produces the most power of the JP pipes, but the best overall is the JP-4, more power than the 2 and much better economy than the 3.
#1721
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From: Clinton Township,
NJ
ORIGINAL: 1cougar1
hello, as the months have past ive posted a few questions on this thread and have gotton good advice both times. well heres my next set of questions. i bught a hyper st rtr from nirohouse a few months ago. well i havent even gotton to break it in yet due to the fact that i first jammed the pull start, then when i took it off to inspect it the spring went haywire on me and i couldnt, for the life of me, get it back coiled up right. so i bought a new one from horizon and it got here last week then i put it in and my mom drove me up to my favorite bashing site and turns out i forgot to put the little starting shaft back in when i put in the new pull starter. well today i was all set to get her going and after a few issues w/ trying to get the feul to the carb and vapor lock. i got it started. now i looked in what says is the manuel that came w/ the truck and i swear there isnt a word about anything in it. no intro, no radio description, no matenience tips, starting tips, needle setting standards. gearing or maybe differencial dismantilling directions and no problems getting her going solutions. only thing it is. is a more detailed exploded view of the building process.all picture no words. now ive noticed that some stores have the hyper st rtr and its a red and black and white truck w/ no body suppotrs. and theres some ads that say rtr but have the option of getting it w/ the pro body. and on the cover of the so called manuel its reads "hyper st rtr w/ pro performance" and then says 1/8 scale gas powered racing truggy and below that it says instructions manuel. and then theres a picture of a st on it , no body, and its all blurry. and i cant seem to download any of the info from the hobao site cause my msntv wont download anything for some reason. so after explaining all that does anyone know what im missing if anything and what the correct needle settings should be high, low, and idle. another thing what does anyone use to keep the battiers or the hump pacin its stupid little case(kinda dumb not having an inclosed receiver battery pack...oh well)? you know ive always wanted a hyper st ever since i saw my first one about a year ago. and im not disapointed that i bought one. i just wish it had better info on and about the truck like the losi's do. well i guess ive poured my heart out enough. any info will be greatly appreciated, cause you know the faster i know the sooner i can get-er-goin: )thanx in advance, clay unruh
hello, as the months have past ive posted a few questions on this thread and have gotton good advice both times. well heres my next set of questions. i bught a hyper st rtr from nirohouse a few months ago. well i havent even gotton to break it in yet due to the fact that i first jammed the pull start, then when i took it off to inspect it the spring went haywire on me and i couldnt, for the life of me, get it back coiled up right. so i bought a new one from horizon and it got here last week then i put it in and my mom drove me up to my favorite bashing site and turns out i forgot to put the little starting shaft back in when i put in the new pull starter. well today i was all set to get her going and after a few issues w/ trying to get the feul to the carb and vapor lock. i got it started. now i looked in what says is the manuel that came w/ the truck and i swear there isnt a word about anything in it. no intro, no radio description, no matenience tips, starting tips, needle setting standards. gearing or maybe differencial dismantilling directions and no problems getting her going solutions. only thing it is. is a more detailed exploded view of the building process.all picture no words. now ive noticed that some stores have the hyper st rtr and its a red and black and white truck w/ no body suppotrs. and theres some ads that say rtr but have the option of getting it w/ the pro body. and on the cover of the so called manuel its reads "hyper st rtr w/ pro performance" and then says 1/8 scale gas powered racing truggy and below that it says instructions manuel. and then theres a picture of a st on it , no body, and its all blurry. and i cant seem to download any of the info from the hobao site cause my msntv wont download anything for some reason. so after explaining all that does anyone know what im missing if anything and what the correct needle settings should be high, low, and idle. another thing what does anyone use to keep the battiers or the hump pacin its stupid little case(kinda dumb not having an inclosed receiver battery pack...oh well)? you know ive always wanted a hyper st ever since i saw my first one about a year ago. and im not disapointed that i bought one. i just wish it had better info on and about the truck like the losi's do. well i guess ive poured my heart out enough. any info will be greatly appreciated, cause you know the faster i know the sooner i can get-er-goin: )thanx in advance, clay unruh
http://ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?...macstar+tuning
#1722
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From: , HONG KONG
Hi All,
Just buy a new Hyper ST Pro, the kit comes with a spider center diff, I open it up and it only has some grease, so I should leave it alone or I should put in some grease or thicker oil? It looks like the diff oil will escape from the screws when I fill it up.
Thanks
TGO
Just buy a new Hyper ST Pro, the kit comes with a spider center diff, I open it up and it only has some grease, so I should leave it alone or I should put in some grease or thicker oil? It looks like the diff oil will escape from the screws when I fill it up.
Thanks
TGO
#1723
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From: Camberley, UNITED KINGDOM
You need to fill it with oil, clean out all the grease and whack some 10k oil in there. You will need the assembly tool, which is a bit of rubber which blocks the screw holes and prevents the oil from dripping out.
#1724
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From: laguna, PHILIPPINES
does anyone of you who has tried installing a 48t spur gear on the hyper st?im a bit curious of what will be the result if you lowered the gearing,what are the advantges and dis-advantages of it..
#1725
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From: , HONG KONG
Thanks for your reply. I will get a 10k oil for the diff.
TGO
TGO
ORIGINAL: squeeguk
You need to fill it with oil, clean out all the grease and whack some 10k oil in there. You will need the assembly tool, which is a bit of rubber which blocks the screw holes and prevents the oil from dripping out.
You need to fill it with oil, clean out all the grease and whack some 10k oil in there. You will need the assembly tool, which is a bit of rubber which blocks the screw holes and prevents the oil from dripping out.


