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KillerVolt

Old 04-27-2010, 07:17 PM
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Default KillerVolt

This thread is for a current project of converting my Robitronic Mantis truggy from glow to volt. I have been thinking about it long enough and have finally decided to do it. I have taken a few pictures of my progress so far and have decided to share them with the rest of you. So, here we go.
Old 04-27-2010, 07:41 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

So here's the chassis which has been stripped down. If you notice, I've removed the battery box and have decided to move the receiver to where the throttle servo used to be. I've cut out an opening in the servo box so I will be able to access my receiver and have welded another piece of plastic to the bottom (it's the slick white stuff and I've forgotten what it's called). I've then sealed the corners from the inside using gasket sealant.
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:42 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

This is what it looks like from the side.
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:52 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

1. I had some .062 carbon accent panel laying around (from cstsales.com) and decided to use it to do two things: secure the receiver below it and give me a platform on which to mount the Schulze 18.97KW ESC I will be using.
2. You can see (sort of..the pic is fuzzy) how little clearance there is between the side of the receiver and the top of the servo box on which the upper plate will be mounted; so with a little strip of servo tape it will be a nice tight fit.
3. The holes I drilled into the ESC plate were then countersunk so my screw heads will be flush with the surface. I may end up trimming the length of both the plate I made and the carbon fiber radio plate below it, but I won't know until later.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:16 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

1. This is my newly fabricated receiver battery I jacked from my mini copter (which is still in Canada). It's actually made up of 2 E-Flight 2S 800mah Lipos I paralleled. So I have a total of 1600mah which isn't bad. I don't actually need this pack except to keep the truck balanced and I'm happy it fits nicely into the space I needed it too.
2. You can see the Novak high voltage BEC I've mounted on top of the packs and if it weren't for balance, I'd run it direct from my motor's power source. Since the light works, I know it's a go.
3. This tiny little space is where the pack is going to be mounted...any wider and I'd be interfering with the steering assembly. This space is actually tighter now than it will be for the simple fact that I've got my Futaba S9551 low profile servo installed for measuring purposes until I fix the high torque one I blew out. I will gain an extra 5+ mm or so of room when the other one is installed.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:34 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

I've decided that my battery packs will balance the rear of the car and I wanted them to have as low a center of gravity as possible. To do this I had to modify my chassis braces as you can see in the picture. Basically, I ground the profile, and made them solid using JB Weld while extending the front portion, as well. They were then ground flat, painted and re-installed. Why did I do this? My plan is to run 2 2S packs (total of 4S) side by side underneath the drive shaft. I have approx. 15mm(H) x100mm(W) x140mm(L) in which to do this: they won't be hard case packs but that's no problem. Low is good. This placement will actually bring the balance exceptionally close to perfect between front and rear, side to side.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:41 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

Here's a mock up of where the speed control is going.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:05 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

This is where the motor is going and where the fuel tank used to be. Since I'm still waiting for the motor, the best I can do is draw lines on my chassis and pretend like I'm working on my project: sometimes it gets me out of doing the laundry.
The motor I've chosen is the Turnigy Typhoon 600H Heli Motor 1100kv. At 42mm diameter and 269g it's not exactly small. This motor will have plenty of torque for my application.

*Removed my math since I will be changing the differential gear ratio (I hope) from 4.2 to 3.3 and switched motors. See newer posts.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:13 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

You can see how low everything sits in the pictures here. So far, I'm really pleased with how everything has come together. Also, I've been able to do all the work using very simple tools. Until the motor and batteries arrive though, this is about as far as I can go right now. However, I will update as soon as I can!
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Old 05-01-2010, 12:29 PM
  #10  
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Default RE: KillerVolt

I was looking around and found a motor that quite exceeds the specs of the one I had originally considered and like an addict, I was compelled to have it. In fact, I ordered it so fast my credit card smoked. [sm=biggrin.gif] I also bought a couple of 2S 5000MAh packs for this project for under $20 each. They do have a low 'C' rating (20) however, since the MAh is high (5000) and both the 'C' ratings and MAh ratings of these packs are generally under-rated, I'm confident they'll be fine for my project. They are in a hard case and so their depth exceed the dimensions I needed but I will attempt to take care of that when they get here: the length and width dimensions are fine. As an added bonus the colors of the motor AND batteries match the rest of the truck. [sm=shades_smile.gif]

Turnigy T600 Brushless Outrunner

*Specifications:
Dimension: 58mm x 49mm, 78mm(with shaft)
Weight: 369g
Kv: 1100rpm/V
Voltage: 5~7S
Max Current: 110A
Diameter of shaft: 6mm
Length of front shaft: 21.5mm

*Actual specs may be different due to common typos. I will post the actual specs when the motor arrives.

Since this is the first time I've ordered from Hong Kong, I'm excited to see how quickly my order will get here. I had it shipped EMS (estimated 3-4 day delivery) for extra $ but since it has to go through customs, I don't know if it will make much of a difference as to when it arrives. Guess I'll find out.
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Old 05-03-2010, 12:20 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

Found out (hearsay) that the motor is 8 poles and that TURNIGY outsourced the design and manufacture of this motor to the same factory that makes HACKER motors.
Old 05-04-2010, 11:39 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

I've been thinking about what to do about a motor mount and realized that I could use what my good friends at Robitronic have already provided. That's right, I'll use the engine mount that came with my kit. After all, it's sturdy and will fit with a little bit of work.

1. Here you can see where I cut the mount.

2. After cutting I ground the cut edges smooth, angled the corner and rounded the edges a bit with a file.

3. This is where I plan to mount it.

I will still need to make the upper half of the motor mount and grind the rear profile but I won't do those things until the motor actually gets here.
"My package has been double checked and is ready for shipping." This makes me very happy!

Also, my wife showed me how to use the "super macro" feature on her camera so now my close-up pics will be much clearer.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:51 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

I wasn't very happy with the receiver box since it was left open to dirt and debris, so I made a few changes that I'm very happy with now.

1. I closed in the box using white styrene plate and strips but for clearance reasons used a thin piece of .030 carbon plate on the bottom.

2. Here you can see the rear of my patchwork: everything has been CA'd together.

3. Since I kept the original piece I cut out of the servo box, I used it as a cover. I also used the rubber seal that came with the original receiver box and custom fitted it into this project. A tiny screw holds the cover on.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:59 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

1. So now that I am adept at getting close ups, here is a shot of the minimal clearance I talked about in an earlier post between my receiver and where the upper plate will mount.

2. I had to cut a larger (rounder) hole into my cover and CA the rubber seal in place. Now all the wires fit and the door sits flush.

3. Mock-up with the ESC plate positioned.
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:39 AM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

My package has finally shipped from Hong Kong! (late last night)
So the question remains: how many days to arrive at my door?
Old 05-05-2010, 09:17 AM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

3-4 I estimate on shipping
to me it takes 3 days after shipping customs didn't even look at mine form HK (I've had a few)

BTW looks pretty nice so far
Old 05-07-2010, 08:59 AM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

SyCo
Thanks for the positive comment.

Yesterday I purchased a Pro-Line Shift body and AKA I-Beam tires in medium compound from the LHS (Hobby Masters). The owner, Craig, is a great guy in my opinion and has done a phenomenal job of building, organizing and maintaining a REAL 1/8 scale track for the Redding/Anderson area. Way to go, Craig!
The Shift body is for the Mugen MBX-6T and is the one I thought fits this truggy the best. I also considered the Bulldog body but it was a bit too long; which may interfere with the front bumper and frankly, I didn't care much for it. The Shift body will have a very low CG (Pro-Line's statement), be the correct length, as well as have a narrower side fit on the chassis than the Mantis body which, since I no longer have an exhaust pipe, will better shield my internal components from under-chassis debris.

The package I ordered is somewhere between here and San Francisco so it will probably show up tomorrow.[8D]
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Old 05-07-2010, 02:17 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

I am curious to know what you are going to do about brakes.  With a center diff, if you use the motor for a brake, only the front or rear will brake, not both.  Is that correct?  Do you use a brake servo also?  I am wanting to convert my 8ight to brushless, but can't really figure that part out.
Old 05-09-2010, 02:07 AM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

Not 100% sure about the brakes but at any rate, I will be finding out shortly.

My package actually arrived Friday and I have spent several hours fabricating a new motor mount since my original plan to use part of the stock one was a no go: this motor is HUGE! It's one thing to see the measurements on paper and a whole other thing to be holding it in my hand.

The only power tools I have have at hand and have used thus far are a grinder and an air drill: no joke. So I have literally spent Friday evening and most of Saturday creating a new motor mount. I must say that it does look good, though. I will post pics later tomorrow or Monday since it's late and I'm dead tired.

I was picking out some paints today for the Shift body and have settled on an gold/orange/purple/red color change paint, and high gloss black paint by Spaz Stix. I'm not going to do a whole lot of fancy painting on this since I think the paint I've chosen should be a conversation in itself. The body lines on the Shift body are well defined....even crisp: so the color change paint will look really good as it forces all the sculpted details to pop out. My plan is to do the trim around the windows, the front grill and the rear roll bars in black. I will be adhering a very shiny, thin, prismatic film onto the windows and front headlights. Since it is shiny on the adhesive side too, I can apply it to the inside of the body. Doing this does not change the prismatic effect noticeably or even at all.
Old 05-09-2010, 06:06 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

Pictures 1,2,3,4 & 5:
Well, here's the motor mount. The mount is made out of ABS (I think) and reinforced with screws and some aluminum plate. It looks bulky but I wanted something to protect the motor well. Thankfully, it's not as heavy as it looks though I will still be drilling out some holes later for added weight savings. Like I said, this motor is huge and since it's an outrunner, everything past the front housing actually turns.

6. You can see from this view how close the motor is to the front of the vehicle. I've ordered a shaft extender which will enable me to use a wider range of pinions and allow me to have the motor as close to the front as possible. With the stock shaft, I would half to mount the motor close up to the diff housing. The size of the motor limits me here since the use of a smaller pinion will cause the motor to hit the diff housing. Mounting the motor this deep up front along with the side plates of the motor mount will help protect it from debris. Last thing I want is for a stone to get stuck between the can and the chassis. The shaft extender will be about 43mm total length and made out of stainless steel. I'm not really concerned about the extra rotational weight of the metal since I will be losing some or all of that weight through the use of an acetyl pinion and a nylon spur.

For a spur gear, I've ordered Losi's quick change set-up with a 45T nylon gear. This will enable me to change the spur gear easily without having to dismantle my entire diff which I think is necessary for a project like this.

For pinions, I've chosen 6mm bore Mod 1 Acetyl with brass inserts. I've got three coming: a 24T, 26T and 28T. Why acetyl? First of all its a strong, abuse-loving material and its cheap. Also, the physical properties of the acetyl plastic pinion do a couple things: they will cause it to run quietly against the nylon spur and provide self-lubrication. These pinions, mated to the 45T spur will net me an approximate and theoretical speed of 38, 42 and 45 mph on 4S Lipo.
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:23 PM
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Default RE: KillerVolt

My original plan was to mount the batteries under and perpendicular to the drive shaft. The packs I ordered will not fit there. So, I think that I will stand them up like you see in the pic, close to center and parallel to the drive shaft. In order to do this I had to re-visit the grinder to carve away some plastic of the diff housing and shorten the radio plate (I figured this would need to be done anyway). I'll also need to slightly cant the servo box (which I've modded into a receiver box) to the outside of the chassis. No big deal, really and the placing for the rest of the electronics will be left.
The way I have everything set up, I will be about 100g or so heavy on the top, motor side of the chassis.
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:11 AM
  #22  
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Default RE: KillerVolt

Nice work!
I'm looking forward to see this monster motor in action! Please post videos of it running. Thanks!
Old 05-12-2010, 10:04 PM
  #23  
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Default RE: KillerVolt

So far, this has proven to be a very difficult week for this project: many changed have been made out of necessity. Things have broken, parts don't fit, I actually fried my receiver by plugging the batteries in wrong: I mean really, how the heck did I manage that? [sm=what_smile.gif] Nevertheless, progress has continued and I still have all my fingers...so that's good.
I'm still waiting for the motor shaft extender and the pinions. Other than those things, and actually installing the motor, this project is near completion. Of course, now I need a new receiver.

So let's start with the body. As hard as I tried to get the body prepped, it seems there were still smudges on the inside. I was not aware that the color change paint would highlight those things so well. It does. You probably can't see them in the pictures but they're there. Oh well, let's move on.

1. So here's a front shot. Shift baby.
2. Side profile. You can see how the paint really makes the details pop out.
3. You can see the black window trim.

I did try to adhere the prismatic decals on the inside of the windows and headlights however, it proved to be too much of a nuisance so I canned that idea. I may use a chrome paint for the windows but I haven't decided. I may just leave them clear.
I do have a ProLine high down force wing but it's in yellow and really doesn't seem to match well with the body color. I wouldn't exactly call it an eyesore but that's my own opinion; so I mounted the stock Mantis one to see how it would look.
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:12 PM
  #24  
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Default RE: KillerVolt

Losi's quick change spur. I like it. It's lighter than the stock steel spur and it will be far more convenient when I need to change it out. 10 out of 10 for Losi.

New update: this spur does not fit on the Robitronic diff case. So I either need to get a Losi diff case or opt for a different spur with the same mounting hole dimensions.
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:54 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: KillerVolt

Here's some body-off shots.

1,2. Top profiles. You can see the battery trays and how they actually fit on the chassis. If you look closely, you can see that the top battery has some scarring. This is because I actually managed to rip the stupid 10awg wire off the top of the battery pack when I was attempting to push a soldered tab into a Traxxas connector: I pushed a bit too hard. So I had to disassemble my brand new pack, re-solder the wire to the top of the battery and weld the plastic back together. I think next time I will use Dean's connectors since they don't require me to push something stupid into another stupid something. [sm=drowning.gif]

3. Here's a side view of the battery tray. Just a piece of aluminum angle cut to size. I drilled out a hole as you can see so I can access the screw which holds the chassis brace. These aluminum angles are quite lightweight. I used servo tape to fix them in place and then riveted each angle to the chassis with 2 "skookum" aluminum rivets (5mm3/16). "Skookum" is a word I learned while on Vancouver Island and is Canadian slang for heavy duty (actually, I think it's native in origin). Now you know. I figured if rivets can keep airplanes together, why not the battery packs in my truck? I mean I've seen a jet wing flap like a birds' 30,000 feet in the sky in harsh turbulence....and the rivets held. The rivets do slightly protrude on the bottom, but they are rounded so they won't catch on anything. The servo tape, along with the Velcro, will act as a good shock absorber for the battery packs.

4. The ESC is mounted using...you guessed it, aluminum angle. Yeah, I know, I had another location I was planning on putting it and I was going to use a nice piece of carbon accent panel too. But I'm not going to talk about that. [sm=tired.gif] It's attached to the diff where the brake assembly used to be. I custom cut some foam to act as a cushion for it and, if you can see, mounted it between some fuel tubing on the screws. This will further help with absorbing vibration and shock.

5. Here you can see the new location for both the battery pack and the receiver (which is dead now, thanks to a brain fart.) [sm=punching.gif] I'm now using a standard 5 cell receiver battery pack (1600mah) rather than the Lipo one I made since this one actually fits. I've fastened the angle aluminum in the same manner as the larger battery trays except I've only used one skookum rivet.

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