ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, It took me a while to get the tail section done to get the right look,I don't have any suggestions,for the retract servo, just let the post get read i'm sure someone will have an answer for you.George

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hi guys,
Well I did the Rudder Mod, and got the engine mounted to make sure if fit the way it should, it seems to be OK
Now I can proceed with the fuel proofing and forge on
George

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

George,
The Rudder turned out great. Will look even better when it's covered.

Pete

hatnikman3

George,
Nice job on the rudder (whole plane for that matter), what will you be covering the "open" sections of the rudder & elevators with if you are glassing the sheeted components?

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

I will be using Solartex but will apply balsarite first for better adhesion.


George

Rummycat

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks to everyone for posting so much good info. I'm just now organizing everything to start building. I placed my kit on backorder yesterday. Can't wait to get started. This will be my first warbird.

One quick question. I have a DA-50 that I can use on this plane. I plan on glassing/painting this bird, and will also probably try to make gear doors. Other than having to add a lot of weight to the nose (I will use lightening holes in the tail as described), will I run into any other problems using this engine for this plane? Will it have enough power? I know most are using the G62, but since I already have this engine I thought I might save some expense.

Thanks again for all the great info, and keep posting as I'm going to need all the help I can get.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Ctflyboy & Rommycat

The best place for adding weight that I found is in the chin just aft of the fire wall make a dummy blkd just in about 1/2 in front of whare the wing dowel pins will stick through F-3c&d. to make sure you have no interference..this way it is not seen. If you choose to use the C/G moved fwd a full 5/8 (5 1/8) from the leading edge, and use lighting holes in the tail feathers and in all of the tailgroup ply parts plus shaving the tail wheel mounting beams, With the G-62 and depending on your muffler , you will only have to add 2 to 3lbs of weight, If you leave the C/G as shown on the plan, probly only 1/4 to 1 lb, but from experiance from my first build it makes this bird tricky to land, mine had a tendeicy to snap just at touch down, you had to be on the rudder right down to roll out

Best of luck lets see lots of pic's


Cheers Bob T

wyldman

My Feedback: (1)

HI guys I haven't been on here for a while been working on the corsair, wish I was as far along as ct flyboy is.
I ran into the folk's from F\G\C this weekend at a swap meet in K.C. and they had two of the new cowls with them, cowl flaps are open about 20 degrees with detail panel lines and they said it was slightly lager so it would fit correctly. the cowl was dated 1-13-06 so it was fresh out of the mold, the finish is nice and smooth. I have a while for I can test fit it, but if anyone else is father along you now have another option for the cowl.
WYLDMAN

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Wyldman

If F/G/S did what they were talking about in Nov, it should fit with just a triangle hole for the plug and wire. what are you going to do for a muffler?? And are you planning on doing the easy mods to get a more scale look??

Hope to see pic.s as you go..

Bob t

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

Rummycat,

Your DA-50 will pull the TF GS Corsair with power to spare. It has lots of urge for a 50cc engine and you will probably be flying it at half throttle most of the time. A DA-50 puts out more power than a G-62 with a magneto ignition and can be used in most any application that would use the Zenoah. You'll love it!

Al

Rummycat

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks rrudytoo and rt3232. That's what I was hoping to hear. It'll take me a long time to build this kit, but if this post is still active, I'll let everyone know how this engine fits. If I'm lucky, I won't have to put any holes in the cowl and just use cowl flaps for cooling.

Rummycat

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

HI Guys,
I didn't get much done over the weekend, very little as a matter of fact. I'm working on the compartment that will house my charge jack & switch,

If your doing a compartment in the fuse all I can say is double check where its going and triple check your measurements as you don't want to run in to any formers[&o]

Should have pics in a day or so.
George

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

George, your rudder looks great! Nice work on it.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

George

The old addage measure twice or three times and cut once[>:]and remember go slow and plan those steps[sm=drowning.gif], and always check the back side[:-]

But thank goodnes its wood



Bob T

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Guys,

Mike,
Thanks for the kind words,

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

RT3232
You are Soooooooooooo right "THANK GOODNESS ITS ONLY WOOD",

IF IT WERE ANYTHING ELSE I COULD HAVE BEEN IN TROUBLE[&o]


George

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

George, Just so you don't feel lonely[&o], I did some work today so's to let you know I'm with ya'. Here's a process of cutting out the main doors. Kind of messy looking now, but should work out pretty well. Doors came out nice and stiff and well shaped. Now I'm out of Nelson hinges again []. The door hinge line is around 5 1/4" apart, so we should be good on the 4 7/8 Aerotech aluminum wheels.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Pete

what size are you building and what kit or plan?? my lay out looked alot messer than that. and what is a nelson hinge??


Cheers Bob T

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Got 'em hinged using BVM offset door hinges that allow for one servo to drive both flaps via the setup shown earlier with the bellcrank type setup. They worked awesome for the doors as they're both tough and allow the freedom necessary for the doors to open.

The Nelson hinges I didn't think would allow for as free of operation since they would have to bend on the airfoil along the hinge line. RT, they're from Nelson Hobbies. You can get them in various flange widths. I used 3/8" for the hatch hinges and tailwheel doors where the hinge line doesn't have any bend in it. They're attached with little #1 or #0 wood screws that Nelson's have.

Mike

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Mike

Thanks for the info, more for my brain drawer



bob T

Dave_ORCC

Phew, I'm not sure where the time goes. I posted a while back that I was about to get back to work on my Corsair and somehow over a month goes by. Regardless, I'm back at it and trying to get caught up on all the posts. I finished up the middle flaps today so, other than a lot of sanding the majority of the "building" is done. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

OK, so questions............did you folks cut out for the retract and wheel well before or after glassing? I want to set mine up with gear doors so I'll be going back and reading the posts about that. What weight f/g cloth is everyone using? I'm assuming 3/4 oz. I also want to order a f/g cowl as the ABS one that comes in the kit will be a real PITA to get to look right, IMHO. So which one do you folks recommend?

That's it for now, I'm sure I'll have more questions soon

Cheers,
Dave

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Dave _ORCC
I'm using 3/4 oz. f/g cloth, as far as the cowl goes I'm using a 1 piece from Stan's Fiberglass with open cowl flaps

Hope to see pics soon.
George

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Dave, same here, 3/4 oz. cloth for the finish cloth, and I think I used 2oz cloth-4 layers for the gear doors. I'm using the Fiberglass Specialties one piece cowling with the open flaps. Yes, the kit one is a bomb.

Dave_ORCC

Hey Guys,

Well, as promised here are a couple of pics of the bird so far.

Ok so 3/4 oz cloth it is. I'll check into Stan's cowl. What do you guys think of the Fiberglass Specialties cowl?

Back to work, gotta get the flaps in order.

Cheers,
Dave

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Dave, I love my cowl from F.S. Somewhere early in the thread there's a pic of it. Cowl flaps are open and there's nice detail in the panel line areas. Very nice job indeed. You can go ahead and use a Forstner bit to drill out lightening holes in your surfaces as George and I and others have done--check the pics. I found the balsa in the cores for the control surfaces really heavy, I think someone said a few ounces in fact....valuable savings in tail weight and easy to do. Sure does look nice though.