alanc

is the cracked one the version with the balsa/glass skin?

rockz

Hi Dave, didnt take photos but the only part was lite ply brace and a couple of balsa ribs, and it was the balsa glass verson.

Americo

Hello I`m Americo and I fron Granada (Spain).
I recently bought a Stuka which I'm currently finishing to mount and setting up. I have a question concerning the centering of the ailerons. As you know the ailerons of the Stuka are rather unconventional and not really integrated with the wing but rather dettached and with its own airfoil. So, I would like to know how do I center both ailerons so they have both the same angle (0º). I was told to do it at a guess but I'm not too convinced about that unprofessional method. Thank you very much and kind regards.

hookemut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Americo,
Well, unprofessional or not, set both port and starboard ailerons (inner and outer) by eye at zero deflection. You will just have to either eyeball them or make yourself a little cardboard jig with which you can get both sides the same. That's what we did and it works out ok.
Can you see why very few airplanes continued using Herr Junkers aileron set up?
Have a ball, but be sure to keep your eye on the centersection bottom surface-watch for structural cracks.
Hasta lluego, y adios,
hookemut

alanc

the newer version is all glass composite, it was a better way of doing it, and cheaper to lay up as well, giving a stronger structure,

rockz

Yes i just eyeballed them as well with vertually no trim changes.Make sure you have plenty of flap travel for landing. i use a Futaba ff9 with sliders for flap operaton

Americo

Thank you very much hookemut, I will give it a try.

beat098

please, i need some help with the tail gear mounting. ideas please.

Whistling Death

I can't figure out what they were thinking when they came up with this tail wheel. Take a look at this. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRWW9&P=7

flyingpiggy

Hi all
I've just purchased one of these kits from a fellow modeller. I was aware that there were some small parts missing {he tells me that he never received them from new} It turns out tha th the small parts were the special flap/aileron hinges - all 18 of them! I have contacted Model Flight in Australia, but they are now no longer the ESM {KMP} agents in my part of the world. Austars has recently been appointed the local agent and guess what . . . They have no stock of stuka spares!!! I contacted KMP in Canada but they too have no spares
Reading this forum topic has illustrated the level of customer support that is enjoyed in USA/Canada and I was kinda hoping that some of this support might come my way.
If anyone can help out with a set of these hinges - even used ones cannibalised out of a dead wing, I would be truely gratefull.

P.S.
I was planning to use my Enya 120 fs but maybe the RCV130 with a 3 blade prop might be a better fit.
What spinner have you guys used?

ghost-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

I have one new in the box & if I don't sell it I plan on using a RCV 130cd. KMP sells a spinner for this plane. Wish I could help you on the parts. Have you tried YT International?.

alanc

contact BOBS HOBBIES of Orlando, Steve is a mate of mine, and is the U.S. warehouse for KMP/ ESM imports i will have our guys dig around, and see what we can find, but i am doubtfull, they are not a spare that are normally stockednot likely any will get damaged, fingers crossed one thing? if the original buyer knew they where missing, and presumebly, he bought the kit from new, why did he not chase them up? or return the kit?

flyingpiggy

Hi Alan
He baught this kit as a suite of spares for his existing ESM Stuka

Regards
Dave Read

alanc

blummy, wonder if he will buy the two new ones, plus a gaggle of spares?

kochj

deleted... wrong forum////

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I have read about concerns relating to the dihedral brace failing/wing center sections cracking. Is the brace pre-installed? What is it made of? On a number of planes, I have replaced the wooden brace with one made of aluminum of the same thickness. I use JB Weld to glue it in. Failure is unlikely after this change. Again, are the center section braces pre-installed?

jmohn

The problem is with standard epoxy as it does not adhere to the wings because of the paint used. If you stirp off the paint from the wing joints and/or use JB Weld instead of epoxy it will be fine.


Jeff

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Again, what is the dihedral brace made of?

alanc

6mm plywod,

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

5 ply birch, or lite ply? And, is it preinstalled for the outer section, and what reinforces the center section?

rockz

My centre section cracked after about 38 flights, opened the bottom of wing and discovered a centre section brace of lite ply full of lightning holes.Made up a 6mm brace,epoxied it to sides of outer dihedral braces.If i did it again i would glass complete centre section as described earlier in this forum.l

Whistling Death

rockz please tell me have photos of your work. I want to open mine up and modify it before I even fly it but I am not sure how to do it.

Whistling Death

I to had parts missing but I was lucky, they had what I needed and sent it right out to me.
I must say though, I knocked a hole in the canopy so I called them to see about getting a replacement and the wanted $40.00 for it !!!!
I can build a poor mans vacuum system for that much. I couldn't believe they want that much for 50 cents worth of plastic.

As for the spinner I have a Dave Brown spinner I am going to use. The prop openings are too small but I am going to cut them wider on my milling machine at work.


BTW I was just on their website and look whats new, http://www.kmp.ca/product_info.php?p...10eaf051d7cc4c

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

It's been a while that i posted on this thread, but i replace the stock tailwheel with a unit which looks excatly the same as the one pictured above from tower, but i bought mine from hobby city and so it was only like $5 or so. it's a drop in replacement!! HEAPS better looking that the stock and a fair bit lighter too. KMP/YT/ESM would be wise to look into suppling these with the kit. I've had a fair few flights with it and i have just had to remake another bracket that bolts onto the rudder as the original finally failed properly, but otherwise it works fine.

I have also finnaly got back onto the bomb drops. I started working on these ages ago and heaps of project have been pushing infront of this one, but since i had to do some minor maintenance on the stuka, i decided to finish it off. if the pic's don't show up i'll post pic's in the next few days as we have been having some major storms here and the connection speed at the moment is soooo sloww.

What i did was order the bombs and mechanisms from hobby lobby. they are about $5 each. i ordered 4 as i am using them for the outboard 50kg bombs the stukas used to carry. I started with a three view of the bomb drop mechanism fairing on the full sized and them made a plug of the shape. I vac formed two of these for each side of the wing. I then expoied some plywood to the insides so that the bomb drop mechanisms can be screwed into something soild.

Their location was then calculated and marked out on the wing itself. the paint was removed and 4 hardwood blocks were expoied to the underside of the wing. these serve as the attachment points for the fairing and also allow for it's removal if i don't want to fly with them attached or if i need to access the aileron servos.

Thanks

Dave

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Next, a servo was epoxied inside the fairing and a "triangle" pushrod was made up to actuate the bomb drops. i removed the spring from inside these units and it wasn't required and would only be loading up the servo unnessearily.

As you can see the beauty of the original's fairing is that i can contain all the equipment to make it work within the fairing, so the only hole required in the wing is to pass the servo lead though. I have finished one side and the other just requires the actuating triangle to be made up and it's ready to go. i have run out of holes in my R/x to plug all these bits and pieces into, so i'll see if a mate of mine has a JR Matchbox he can lend me till i buy one. I'll be making the extension leads there tomorrow as well.

The other cool thing about these bombs is that they are made in two halfs. so what they are designed to do is to be filled with talc powder or soot, and when they hit the ground the burst open and you get a cloud of dust. they look pretty good, just its a small cloud. i also have these fitted to a parkflyer P-38.

We have a warbirds event on this weekend at my club and so i hope to have pictures of her dropping them there, but it's been raining heaps and the club could very well be flooded, so we'll see what happens.

Thanks

Dave