Hello Kahloq,

Yes, they're wire struts. Good work with Sierra. As soon as the retracts are on their site, I'll order them. Do they include the oleo's as in your picture? Another question, since you don't use the plastic retract bay inlays, do you strenghten the this balsa in that place, maybe with som glassfibre on the inside?

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands

[quote]ORIGINAL: SCALECRAFT

I can see this vibration mount will work only till the alum posts work into the wood. Maybe 2 flights. Then what?

I'm going direct mount to wood with my 1.08

Unless my assembly is wrong.

Steve


I am using 1/8" rubber under the mounting lugs of the engine. Gives the proper spacing and should absorb some of the thumping!
Dave[img][/img]

Yes the gear come with the oleo struts. I dont have the plastic wheel wells in place in the picture, but you could use them with the retracts if you want. It will limit the tire size though using the wells. The max tire you can get in there without using the wells is about 4 inch diameter, but 3 3/4 inch if you dont modify the wheel opening. With the plastic wells, you can get a 3 1/8 inch to maybe a 3 3/8 inch size.

Adding glass to the inside is a good idea, especially if not using the wheel wells since the inside of the wing would then be subject to outside air and possibly fuel/residue if glow/gas.

WWIIP38

Thanks for posting that pic. Once I get my engine mounted and if I have too much vibration, I may go that route. We have mounted 108s to all composite models before and have had no problems.

I have a RCV 120 mounted direct to a VQ Hurricane and its stayed together, and the RCV is a jack hammer compared to an OS 108, so I may be ok. Although the VQ is all wood.

.

Thanks Again.



Steve

I'm still waiting for the gear from Shindin machine, the 19/8 props and the 90 degree muffler adapter from Horrizon for the 220 but everything else is done, ready to go.

Question
What size Spinner does the CMP require???

Hello Steve,

Did you drill extra holes around in the front of the plane? Is this for cooling? Does this still let air in, once the spinner is on?

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands.

Hellcat56 the CMP comes with an ok plastic spinner, but if you know the scale shape of the spinner it may fall short of the look you are familiar with. The spinner at the backplate is 5.693" dia.


Eric

Just trying to move air around in the engine compartment.

Yes I did drill holes. Can't hurt. If you do the same avoid drilling at the engine mount location. I have done the same on all my other in line engine airframes and my engines don't overheat. I am also going to open the chin scoop oil cooler and drop the flap at the back of the chin cooler as well.

I made a mold of the chin scoop/engine cover , so if I screw it up or loose it, I can lay up another glass one, maybe with the deeper more scale oil cooler scoop.



.
Steve

Ok, so here is what I came up with for the engine installation, the only problem is I'll have to remove the muffler before I can open the hatch. I should have the gear here next week. I bolted the engine directly to the wood and reinforced the top and bottom of the engine mount. Soo close...

Kahlog,

Would it be possible to post a picture of the retracts in the down position , a side view ? I have Sierra retracts for a CMP T6 and they're good quality so I imagine yours are pretty good too .

Thanks, Dick

To others, thanks for the posts about the 2 cycle engines and your ways of starting them.

how does the exaust exit on the full size plane?

those big exhaust stacks you have to glue on each side of the fuse should give it away!

thanks

dave

I got the spinner from Dave Platt last night. It has a diameter of 5 9/16� making it about 1/8� smaller than the 5 11/16� stock spinner. It has a bit taller cone and appears to have a more scale profile than the stock one as well as the cannon hole in the front. The hole in the aluminum backplate is ½�, too large for my OS 1.60. I’ll have to make an adaptor. It also needs a spinner nut that allows a short screw to hold the cone on since you would not want to tighten down on the cone with a long screw (it appears to be some sort of nylon). I think it will work out fine with a bit of work and the slightly smaller size should not be too noticeable. Here are a couple of photos.

Hi All

I did what our little 109F has for additional hot air exchange. I cut open the front of the scoop and opened the back. I'll put the scale like rear flap back on the scoop in an open position.

I may get the exhaust to exit at the back of the scoop as well.

HR Todd, If you are unhappy with the fit of the Platt spinner to the fuse, you can put maybe an 1/8" extension ring between the fuse and backplate and shape it to size.

Does not have to be wood. To paint you can put a yellow or white ring around the nose section as seen in some scale paint schemes.

Just an idea we use to make things fit better.

Remember not to over tighten the spinner and use thread lock. And keep everyone away from the front and the prop line.

Looks good.

Steve

Yeah that was a brain fart was it not? never mind I am not at the "exaust stack" yet, another question with the retracts if you install a set at 85 deg with landings wond that put more strain on the mounts compared to 90 deg? during a landing as it will try to spread I am not that concerned about scale more about strength and making it last

If there is interest, I thought I would share some of the scale options I have made for my other large 109 with you guys.

The pic shown is 109 static scale blades that I made using a diagram of the blades used on some of the DB605 engines.

What I would like to offer is 3 blades, and a vacuum form spinner. The modeler would make a MDF disc as shown or use any method he desires to support the static blades and vacuum form spinner.

I have noticed Aerotech is asking quite a lot for their stuff. What if anything would these be worth. I would value the spinner and props individually, since I don't have a vacuum form spinner yet.

The pull may be too hard to get a clean spinner.

I'm not looking to make a living off these options, just off set our hobby cost and see what you guys think.

Note Carbon props not available.

Steve

Hello Adam,

I got the muffler. Fits perfectly as you said. Did you modify anything on this muffler? I noticed the hole of the outlet port of the engine is a bit wider then the port of the muffler. There is room to widen the port a bit, but if this not influences the engine performance, I rather leave it like it is.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands.

Hey Eric,

Great to hear you got the muffler. I have not opened up the exhaust and have not had any problems with the engine. I would leave it the way it is unless you run into problems with engine performance.

Enjoy,

Adam

Anybody gonna fly one of these?

Working on it!

May I offer a possible solution to your problem of having to remove your current muffler to remove the chin scoop hatch? Remove the 90 degree right angle adapter as well as the muffler your using.
Instead, use a flex pipe coming directly out the back of the cylinder where the exhaust port is. Route the flex pipe under the "chin scoop" and cut out a rear chin scoop flap.

I did this on the KMP Me-109. This would allow you to remove the chin scoop hatch and fiddle with the needles or do whatever else like changing the glow plug without removing the muffler and it would also clean up the appearance.
Please see pics for reference.
The flex pipe I used had a pressure tap on it so it did pressurize the fuel tank.

That looks good and I had considered this option but with the fire wall being so close behind the engine unlike the KMP kit, I didn't see a good way to make it work, mabey if I had drilled through the wall and ran the muffler through. My option works well I think but you know... It could have been easier... It's all hind site now and it's not like i'm trying to scale this one all out. I kinda just want to see her in the air and what works...works. Thanks though, I bought a second one and I'll do this mod on it.

Ahhh Ive also considered buying a 2nd one, but I want to see this one fly first and shake out any issues(if any).

Also trying to conserve funds for a different project. Anyone have a saito 170 radial they'd sell?

I know a guy at my field who is selling a saito 180 if interested. I dont know its history though. I'll see him this weekend possibly.

Thanks for your reply, Dave.

I have decided on the OS FX 1.60 for my CMP Bf109F, with the Slimline inverted muffler.
I wonder what servos would be suitable. The control surfaces are not that big on this plane. I have Hitec 325, 475 and 645 available. The 645s are noticeably heavier than the smaller ones. In my opinion the aileron, rudder and elevator servos should be the strongest ones. Does this make sense?

Helge.