LDM

Thanks.

I don't remember, are you the guy that tried your hand at composite spinners?. And If you are, what became of that?

I think if a modeler gets in a jam with a model I have, or needs special replacement parts, I guess it could be done as long as it doesn't make my fun time into a job.

And nothing that spins.

But as you know, I like to post methods on how to do things oppose to me doing things. Time is the biggest problem. Family, work, family,family, kids school...................


Anyone can do these things

I'll search Luke Zolner to see what he does.

Eric,
My plane did not come with retracts. I am using Spring Air retracts. These use air up and spring down in the event of air loss. Also, I am using an O.S. 1.60 FX engine with a Slimline inverted pitts muffler (fits completely in the cowl); http://www.slimlineproducts.com/onli...rted_pitts.htm
I don't think they make one yet for the 1.20FX.

Dave

Hey scalecraft , no that composite spinner was not me but i was building the same plane , a 73" P40 , the guy your thinking of is Tause , he is a helicopte enginer who is modifying the 73" CMP , he added a hand made three blade prop , spinner and gear system , its a work of art .
Most of my mods are things like spilt flaps , interios , sliding canopys ect .
I know what you mean about time , I travle all over the USA for work , plus coach a midget 18AA team ice hockey , plus I am the hockey director for the club ect ect ect ,
Two boys , happy wifey , so life is busy !!!!

Eric,

Slimline does make an Inverted pitts muffler that fits the OS 120AX. It is the one made for the Thunder Tiger 120 (model # 2209). I own two 120AX engines and both use the thunder tiger 120 slimline inverted pitts. The bolt pattern is exactly the same. It looks and fits just like the picture of the OS 160FX from WWIIP38.

Enjoy,

Adam

LDM

And there you have it. Life . So when I want to something, its "take a number".

Hand made composite stuff, now thats what motivates me.

Steve

Adam,
Thanks very much. I'll order one right away. Another little problem for me solved through this forum.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands

Adam,

Slimline doesn't ship to Europe. Tower doesn't stock this muffler. May I ask you were you got them? Or maybe you know an Internet shop who stocks this muffler and does ship to Europe.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands.

I've got my kit mostly built without the gear and the muffler which will be here wednesday. It's a heavy beast which concerns me a little for those of you wanting to go smaller than a 1.6. I have the 120AX and I don't think it will be enough to enjoy this kit. I've ordered another to scale up and Im placing a Moki 2.10 in it.

The 120AX will pull it around but it may be a bit weak on reserve power. It's tuned for torque and not much of a revver (I have one). I'm putting an OS 1.60 with the inverted muffler in my BF-109 and I know it will have plenty of power. I have the same set up in my 86" Kawasaki Ki-61 that weighs 20 lb, and it pulls it around very well. Used a gun on it the other day and with a 17X8 prop it hit 111 mph. I'm thinking the 109 will be a bit fast for the 17X8, so I will be using a 17X10 to keep the engine from revving over 10K in flight. A Moki 2.10 may be a bit more than you really need, but you should have reserve power a' plenty!

Photo of the Ki-61

You can never have too much power but it being a warbird, you want plenty of reserve power for those special moments we love so much[X(]. The Moki is very close in size to the saito 220. It'll just save me some time since I already have one complete.

I see you are in Denver Ramstein. That may explain your "extra" power thinking. I would like to go out there for the warbirds over the Rockies event, but I'm afraid I may not be able to fly my plane well in the thin air.

You need to grab a set of Major Decals .60 size German stickers. They are a major improvement over the stock decals on the top of the wing and you can stick them right over the stock ones.

I plan on getting this tuned in a few times in flight and then repainting the whole thing. I don't like the scheme and have a better one in mind. I'll paint the markings on then.

Hi All

I just remembered that the Dave Platt 109G spinner is a very very nice scale spinner that will probably be the closets to the correct size. If I remember correctly it was around 5.6" backplate diameter. It had an aluminum backplate and an injection molded spinner with nose cannon detail, uncut for prop blades. It was around $65.00 around 6-7 years ago.

I sent it back because it was too small for his perfect scale 1/5 109 (78"span) plan. Oh well.

Someone out here may have one to give additional details/pic. RC groups or RC scalebuilder may have more info.

Steve

Steve,
Oh Omnipotent One,
The shock mount hardware that is included with the ARF is to small for the hole pattern on the OS 1.60.
I was considering cutting the top and bottom plates in half, ain't done it yet, just considering it. The holes are about 3/16" to narrow, plus the bottom plate has a recess for the screws,
Your thoughts?
THanks,
Bob Q.

I'm putting in the same engine. As soon as I get something that works, I'll post it.. I see using a Dremel though.

The only difference may be that I may set my engine back with a 1" alum hex stock, (turned round at the ends), extension and/or make my chin oil cooler the scale deeper version allowing more intake and exit of air flow. Same concept as in our 48" span 109F, totally hidden engine.

I also noticed that CMP has us screwing our servos into 3 ply light plywood. I am going to back mine with 1/8" or 3/16" 5 ply sections for the screws to screw into. As CMP has done for the engine and wing bolts.

Omnipotent. Funny.



Steve

anyone put some thought into ballancing that big spinner?

Re: Spinner Balancing,
I have access to a lathe, I plan to install the 4 screws and chuck it up by the base plate. Center drill and then drill a 3/16" hole ( for the scale 20MM canon), in the nose . Remove the spinner, and use your prop balancer. Achive proper balance by spinning the spinner, and when it stops, marking the the bottom, (AKA), heavy portion of the spinner. Then drill SMALL holes in the back plate until, when you rotate the spinner, so the holes are 90 degrees from vertical, and release it, the spinner does not move when released. Now do the same thing with the prop, only don't drill holes. Add small amounts of epoxy to the tip opposite the heavy blade. The other option is to rent one of the spin balancers , from Hughes Aerospace, that they use to spin balance satelites. They can balance down to a gnats eyelash. It shouldn't cost more than a new car.
Bob Q.

I just ordered one of the BF-109 spinners from Dave Platt. It has an aluminum backplate. I have a friend who has one, and it is the same exact size as the one provided by CMP. If the one from Dave is truly the same as his I will be in good shape. Some type of very long spinner nut will be needed to keep that large cone centered. Dave does not provide the adapter with the spinner. The spinner costs $50 + shipping.

BQuartucy: I noticed also that the vibe mount does not work on the OS 1.60. I believe by just putting the rubber provided between the engine and the wood mount it will center the engine shaft in the cowl opening. The two stroke does not vibrate quite as much as those big 4-strokes, so I don't think a full isolation mount is really needed.

BobQ

I have decided to put my OS 108 in this model. I have seen larger models fly well with this engine.

On the Os 160 and the rubber mounts. In regards to the alum flat stock mounts. I figure I would get longer alum flat stock and drill the correct hole space. And counter sink as original.

But my bigger concern would be the Os 160 raised portion of the engine mounts on top. Will the rubber be gouged by the raised mounts. Another concern is the bottom alum plate. Will it sink into the ply after a few flights when fuel soaked??

HR Todd

Your going to love that spinner. And its still pretty close to the same price. Please post a pic of the backplate to fuse section for us to view.

On the spinner bolt. After prop is securely on, I use an alum hex stock ( brass hex if you need nose weight) drill and tapped for the engine shaft and the spinner bolt you use.

Its best to pic your bolt first and fabricate your adapter to size. Use thread lock, avoid over tightening spinner. I have pic of what I mean if you need.

anybody fly one yet.

Steve

Steve,
1. Cut the 2 bottom plates in half. They only serve as spacers and are used to set the heigth of the engine and center it vertically.
2. Fabricate 2 plates that are the same thickness as the raised bosses around the engine mounting holes. Drill 4 holes in the new plates,centered on the engine mounting holes,
the holes should be large enough to clear the bosses so the plates sit flat on the mount lugs.
3. Place the 4 elastomeric pads on top of the new plates.
4. The 2 new upper plates sits on top of the pads.
5, Assemble as follows:
a. Gather the 2 pads that have been cut into 4 pieces. Put the countersunk screw thru the plates and put the 4 screw/plate ass'ys up thru the 4
mounting holes of the engine mounting lugs.
b. Place the new spacer with the enlarged holes thru the 4 screws resting on top of the mounting lugs.
c. Place the elastomeric pads on the screws protruding up thru the engine mounting lugs.
d. Fasten the new top pad over the screws and fasten/tighten the lock nuts on the screws until contact is made with new plate.
e. Insert the 4 standoffs up into the elastomeric pads.
f. You are now ready to mount the engine to the 4 blind nuts with the 4 long bolts and washers.
Bob Q.

Schummie,

I live in the US and ordered it directly from slimline products. I am sure someone at slimline could tell you if they have dealers overseas. good luck.

Adam

Thanks BobQ for taking the time to explain.

Sounds like a good method.

Steve

Thanks Adam,

I contacted Slimline, and there is a dealer in England.
The muffler is now on the way from the UK , from CML Distribution, to the Netherlands.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher

I can see this vibration mount will work only till the alum posts work into the wood. Maybe 2 flights. Then what?

I'm going direct mount to wood with my 1.08

Unless my assembly is wrong.

Steve

ya , most people who tried them on the P40(CMP) had to go back and remove the engines , so I would not bother