All,

I know we've been down this road before but I'm still undecided about which retracts to buy . I know Scalecraft rebuilt his mounts and installed retracts that he had and Ramstein44 installed retracts from Shindin, I believe, and Kahloq installed the new retracts from Sierra so I'm really in a fix trying to decide. I'd like to move the retract to a more scale position like Scalecraft, I'm going to be putting in bigger wheels from Williams Brothers anyway so I'll be doing some carving. I'm tending to go the way of Sierra's retracts for the KMP109 and move them to the right spot and than again I could do the same with the new retracts meant for the CMP109 and get that much more out in front of the leading edge . I believe I read somewhere that the later model 109's had there gear raked out 6" more to help with landing for the pilots coming up less experienced . All feedback is appreaciated !

Thanks rchorn

I believe the on the 109, the rake remained the same. However the wheel size was enlarged for help the ground handling problems. Note the 109s with the top of the wing with a hump for the larger wheel. G4/6 version.

If you have built scratch or kit before, the work i have shown is more along the lines of tinkering. Not hard or demanding.

I try to conserve funds when possible. Value and function. Also, I've noticed "you don't get what you pay for" anymore as before.

Its a balance between conserving funds and having what you want, so that you can have both.



Steve

Guys
I have a used set of Century Jet 109 gear for sale
$100.00 anybody want a set
If you buy them and dont want them
you can return them
if you dont crash them

oops. yeah 13.2 I thought I posted it before several times... My new bird is 12.5 dry

Hi All

Heres what I had in mind when I cut the rear of the chin scoop open.

Sealed entire engine area with 30 min epoxy resin as well.

Steve

And heres the back of the scoop.

Steve

I have just mounted my 180 into the plane and it fits nice! I will probable remove it and do what you did with epoxy, I did notice the brakes cant be hooked up via a Y lead today as the servos are oposite to each other so it will require two chanels for the brakes, my thoughts are to put them onto the flap switch? and just have one postion for the flaps why would you need two positions for the flaps?

I am also going to open it up around the spinner and do the vent thing, more cooling for the motor the better! interesting which way the flow will be through the front holes as the spinner even though smooth will act a little like a centrifugal fan when spinning at 8000 rpm perhaps but I guess we will never really know I think once finished I will seal the main body of the plane from the engine bay to keep fumes and oil out of there...... I persisted with the single rod and Y forks to the tail works ok now as I have put in two tube guides with 12mm balsa

Theirs always the option of using a y harness with a reverser for your airbrakes or flaps. I had attempted to do the same but just opted to modify the servo door and rotate the servo.

I have a 9Xii transmitter but was hoping to use an 8 channel receiver, will probably just get a 9 channel receiver and be done with it...

Hi Scalecraft, I made a mistake about the forward rake being made 6" more on the "G"model, I found the article that I was referring to and it was the transition from the "E" model over to the newer "F"models and on where it occurred . You were right about the larger wheels being used later on .
I've built a" few" models from kits over the years but only did one scratch built, a Henschel 126 from Brian Taylor plans . It flew good for the few flights I did with it and became a bore after that, all that could be done would be to fly around in circles ! I sold it at a swap meet . I had more enjoyment in building it .

Hello,

How did you make your wheel bay. Did you use a plastic bottle or something. Please let me know, as I use the same retracts and wheels as you.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands.

Oh boy. Where do i start. Ummm. The flap switch has 2 positions for flap movement for a good reason. It allows you the ability to set a mid range setting(about 20 degrees) and a full range setting(35-45 degrees) for deflection angle. The mid range is used when there's a head wind/slight cross wind of about 7-12MPH. Over that, and you may not need flaps at all, but under 7MPH, a mid range flap deflection is usually not enough, so thats why you have the 2nd position on the switch for full flaps. If you try and simply use full flaps all the time and its breezy, but not over 12mph(where you can simply turn them off), your plane will balloon up and down alot due to the wind acting on the fully deflected flaps and becomes more pronounced once you get low enough to get ground effect upwash. So, hopefully you see why a mid deflection and full deflection flap setting is smart to have available. On futaba radios(some)...they have a dial knob to input flaps, but its not precise everytime sicne you arent looking at the knob when trying to fly your plane so you may not get it turned exactly the same amount each time you use it.

Now....the following is a couple different ways to solve your problem.
Solution 1
Even on the 8 channel RX your wanting to use, you can set up the servos as follows:
1 - Throttle
2 - Ailerons on y-harness(no reverser is needed)
3 - elevator
4 - rudder/tail wheel
5 - gear
6 - landing flap(right side) AND landing flap (left side) with regular y-harness
7 - air brake left
8 - air brake right

The servo covers provided in the kit are designed to allow you to set up either the two servos for flaps on a single channel with y-harness (or the airbrakes) because one of the servo covers is a duplicate match and not a mirror match.

Solution two:
Use a matchbox

Solution 3:
if you want the airbrakes to act along with the flaps on the same switch, you can cross y-harness to match the direction. So...if lets say the servo for flaps on the left side wing and the airbrake flap on the right side wing moved in the same direction on a normal y-harness plugged in one channel, you can do it that way, but this obviously does not allow you to activate the airbrakes separately

Hi Kahlog, no it was just a thought, I have not had flaps on a plane before you have answered my questions so I will use a different switch on the transmitter for the brakes! all I have to do is wait for the exchange rate between US and NZ to improve and I will get a new reciever

Hi Hellcat56,

I saw in another post that you had an ME109 cockpit kit for sale, is it still for sale ?[:-]

Dick

well I decided to not put the throttle servo into the engine bay, TOO HOT!!! the wire looks a little worse for wear but thats just the camera angle it has an offset at the engine end, I used a solid wire threaded through a set of gold n rod also someone asked where the serria retracts sit when down?

Hi Snappa, yea, that was me asking for pic's of the retracts in the down position, thanks ! I've been waiting to see them !

do the photos give you what you want?

take some more with the plane sitting on its gear. I see you have the stock wheels on the gear and the wheel wells in place. Id like to see what the stance looks liek with it sitting on the ground.

As far as a RX, what brand? There are several places online where you can buy something that dont rely on the USA for shipping or other such stuff.

I am bidding on a JR 9 chanel reciever will see how that goes other photos at a later date

9 channel Spektrum? or PCM?

Anyone else going up soon. i'm going to assemble a set of extra wings I have "as is" from CMP without retracts but with added weight to equal retracts. I want to just get this up to see what else I may want to do. Or not do.

Should be ready to fly by Wed, Thurs this week if i get a bit of free time.

Steve

old school 72 mhz using a JR 9Xii

Schummie, I used some cottage cheese containers to make the surrounds for the wheels. They were about the perfect size. I glued them in using some Zap a dap a goo, it holds about anything and does not vibrate loose.

I am using an 8 channel receiver. I ended up using a y-cord on the ailerons and flaps, and then mixed channel 7 and 8 with the flap for the airbrakes. I will have the airbrakes on the same rotary knob as the flaps, but will be able to adjust them seperately with the mix if needed. I have quite a few planes with split flaps which function much like the airbrakes. I'm sure I will want some of the drag that the brakes provide, but it will take some adjustment to get the proper mix. I am am used to using the rotary knob, and like it since it gives me the full range of options depending on the wind speed.

Yes, pretty much but I agree with Kahlog, it would be good to see them on the plane and get a better idea .