I have over 5 CMP Planes .I just bought another one (this plane thanks you guys ).
My first CMP was the hellcat .The best way to describe the fuse is called "tin-canning" its the ability to flex the fuse in when not supported by braces .Based on the lower end materials being used this is where you get the easier cracks and paint chips .
I learned years ago that If I wanted my CMP P40 to last longer , I need to add a light weight material inside the fuse at the bigget areas of tin-canned effect .
THat is when I discovered -flightskin -, you can use simply CA or very little 5 min expoxy and add few sheets to the most prown areas in the fuse of flex.You would be amazed on how the fuse becomes rock solid by adding this product that takes all of 2 miniutes to apply .
I now use it to strength flaps , servos screw areas ect , its amazing modeling product .
I was going to try to sheet an open wing but I did not like the feel and opted against it .

A month ago I also got my first KMP corsair , personally I cant tell if the fuse is made of better materals or not because as far as flex its the same in open areas as the CMPs .
THe inside does appear thicker , so I have to test it as Steve suggested . I know the center section of the KMP corsair wing is composite and absoluet top of the line rock solid quality .

One last note , I found and others as well that clear coating the CMPs before the first flight can have the paint last much longer then not useing a coat .
The FW190 I am working on now will get clear coat , but I need to use some good fiberglass filler when the detailing will begin .THis plane was chipping out of the box so I sanded any areas of chip away in order to start fresh .
The quality of the glass appear to be ok , its the ability for the paing to ahear to the flex that can happen under normal load.

LDM

What is a good clear coat for the CMP model,, i want to make sure i do this plane right,, i have had some bad luck in the past with CMP, but this bf109 looks so good, and alot of guys are really talking this plane up,, so i am going to give it a try,, mine should be on my door step in a few days.

Fred

If I leave my CMP glass fuse models in direct sunlight at around 80 degrees, it will get soft. I keep them out of the California sun.

LDM

It is normal for a mass production type of glass fuse to "oil can" as its known in the composite model world. This is not a problem in flight. Its only seems to be a problem because someone squeezes the fuse at an unreinforced location. This oil can effect bothers some people.

My little 109F has the oil can effect at the rear of the fuse (old layup). It has minimal wood, a servo tray, wing bolt mount and a rudder post rear of the firewall and is more than enough for abusive flight.

But it still bothers even me to have a flimsy fuse. My buddy HVACMAN and I have configured a layup sequence that almost eliminates the oil can effect in a fuse without added weight or wood. I tested it in the Spitfire I have posted here somewhere.

Still not to worry about the can thing.


Steve

JS , I have only used the Great Planes/Top Flight clear coat brand , it seems to work for me the best without yellowing .

Steve , thanks for the explanation , I know its probably normal but being a wood kit guy , then going to H9 arfs ect , it was a wierd thing for me . As you stated it seems flimsy , especially when on the ground and your holding onto your plane with a screaming 180 -4 stroke , I dont want to be worried that I am grabbing onto a flimsy part of the fuse if its just aft of the wing , and that has been the case with the P40 and the Hellcat( Both CMP).

I know its about weight but Flightsking seems to fix this with less weight then adding a hollowed out bulkhead .
On the CMP P40 , the front fuse was so weak -that if you turn the plane over on a flight stand , you will get indentations when trying to start the plane , the lower fuse near the engine is the same way , virtaully hollow . Now I am all about saving weight but not at the cost of safety , I cant belive that some of these planes have not had the engines rip them apart .
I fixed the problems in two methods , 1)the lighest method is flightsking , 2) the strongest method is useing a simple contour gauge , putting it against the fuse where you need the strength , and making a very light weight ply former for that area .
In Pa I fly typically in early morning or 6 pm , so I am not in the hottest sun , but I have flown at 1:00 pm , not really having problems with my CMP glass work but i also dont let it sit for 2 hours in the sun . I dont see anyone , not even the top warbirds guys let there planes sit unless there on display at a meet .

I am preparing to join the wing halves on my 109. With the plastic coating on the aluminium joining tube is a rather tight fit.

Any way I can do this without using too much force?

Thanks,
Helge.

yes I found it the same with mine, I did mine like this, mask both wing halfs with masking tape, sand the alloy tubes to reduce the size just a little then glue up.... I then used a set of ratchet tie-downs to pull the wing together.. watch out for the little pin at the rear of the wing its in a bag not associated with the wing

once the glue has stopped "spurting" out of the wing remove the tape from the wing to give a clean joint.

I had the same problem with my wings. I took a piece of dowel, attached some sandpaper to the end and insert5ed it into the tube. With a rotary motion I worked the dowel in and out while at the same time tristing it. Use a 200 grit paper. I beats taking a chance in collapsing the wing since the wing is bent already.

hey listen to this great customer servace , ordered a Bf109 from Alex at AK models on Friday afternoon last week .Guess what showed up today I cant open it until Christmas but man that was fast shipping !!![&:]

I got my KMP retracts today for my CMP Bf 109.

Honestly they are very good looking. Much beefier than the earlier KMP stuff. The wheels, while alloy hubbed, need to be cleaned up and changed to bear any resemblance to anything even remotely Luftwaffe-ish.

I'm rather happy with them.

Evil

How much and some pics when your have a chance please.

Steve

Steve,

The whole set, which includes the retracts, scale-ish struts, main wheels and a tail wheel (and all the hose, air tank, valves, T-pipes and what not) were $275.00 if I remember correctly.

THROW the crappy hex wrenches away. They are horrible. I was attaching the struts to the retracts last night and actually had the hex wrench that was used to tighten the strut socket strip complely bare both the wrench and the screw itself. Luckily I have boxes full of good hardware and was able to repair.

I'll take some images tonight and post them in a new thread.

Guys,
I ordered a set of large retracts from Eurokit. They look pretty good and are air up spring down. The air set up is different from what I am used to but it looks like it will work. They almost were a drop in but I had to sand about an 1/8th inch off the inside of the rails. It look like I'll have to bend the strut wire a little to get a good fit when the retract cycles. Anybody out there have any experience with the Eurokits? They were a close out at $85 and that included a set of wheels and a tailwheel. I also ordered the Fliteskin spinner as the OEM spinner looks suspect to fail.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

Let's see some photos of these relatively free retracts!

I just went to the eurokit web site. They look like a bargain. I like the oil or air option. And the festo fittings for lines.

Let us know what you think

steve

Has anyone gotten a FliteSkin spinner yet? You are right that piece of crap plastic thing they call a spinner is just a disaster waiting to happen... and we all know how hard it is to do 109 spinner the right way...

Are the wings suppose to have pilot holes already drilled in the front section of the wings where it locks into the front of the fuselage??? or do i have to figure out where to drill the holes myself. i never have had to do this before. what is the best way????

Get a pencil and a tap. Works great and keeps everything straight.

Evil did you buy sierra gear that is made for the KMP and your useing it for the CMP or did you buy KMP gear for the CMP

I got the KMP gear for the CMP.

Damn that can get confusing fast.

Guys,
I'll try to get some pics of the Eurokit retracts on here tonight.
Loopman

LDM,KMP,CMP.......................

All of the above.


That never worked for me in the past.

SSP

Guys,
Now that I've bit the bullet and bought one of those fancy fliteskin spinners, how the heck do you cut it? I don't want to screw it up so if any of you have the magic answer, I'd greatly appreciate some guidance.
Happy Flying (and Holidays)!

Loopman

Retract photos, my good man!

Guys, here's a shot of the retracts I got from Eurokit. For the price, they aren't too bad.