I beg to differ with the previous answer , Larger wheels are possible Not flown yet.....but, I have built this CMP 109 using 4 3/8 wheels...... It required a bit of trimming but it will work and it actually functions good adding precious scale height and improved taxi stability on a grass field.

I have a set of 4 1/2 scale wheels on order.......... I hope to Squeeze another 1/8 inch out of the well. If not , maybe on another set of wings.

So Freddie, does that mean you are getting 4.5" wheels to fit with no mods to the wing spar? The thickness of the wheels is also a problem as they larger out by the leading edge of the wing. If you open up the wing and change the mounting points of the wing, I would call that "major." When I said no way to 4.5" wheels I meant without "major" mods.

As for the Split flaps, radiator flaps, whatever you want to call them, I would recommend that you cut them out and glue a wood block in to support the control horn. It does not take much to rip them out of the balsa if you don't do something to make them stronger.

Hey Fearless,

Can you post a picture of the bottom of your wing? Also, are those the drop-in SG retracts?

Tim

Fred

Nice Spiral!

Steve

when we seeing some flight reports? mine is a long way off

Guys:

The upper inner flap actually is an air brake and was used on 109's that were based on the Eastern Front. These 109's were used
in ground attack support roles and when the 109 went into a dive to bomb a target the dive brakes were deployed to keep the speed
down. The 109's were never as successful at this joab as were the Fw190's.

Regards,

Perhaps they were brakes only as a by-product of their original intent?

"Early in 1940 the 109 airframe was redesigned for maximum aerodynamic streamling intended to take full advantage of future improvements to the DB 601 engine. With the underwing radiators causing a significant portion of the excessive drag, a boudary layer bypass system was developed, which collected turbulent air on the underside of the wing, directed it over the radiators, and ejected it from a duct on the upper surface of the lower flaps, allowing the upper and lower flaps to act in opposite directions to serve as a radiator flap."

Are we still on the air brake, flap debate.

Come on lets get these in the air, I'm out numbered at the airfield 10 to 1 by mustangs, spits, P-47,P-40,ect.........

Help!

The next time I see Gen Gunther Rall (3rd highest ace) at the Aviation Art gallery, I'll ask him if they used it as an air brake.
n
Steve

That would certainly be the horse's mouth, eh?

Mine is grounded until I get a spinner...

My assembly stopped. Two canopies from Nitro, both damaged, now they are out of stock. I'll finish mounting the retracts, but not much more I can do.

AK Models are getting spare parts in January

FYI

The canopy is crap. I'm going to make a new with a better shape.

Nitroplane two day black Friday sale. CMP 109 $237.00. Whats more of a better deal is the 82" span AT6 at $180.00 The AT6 is comparable to the quality of the 109. But it is big.

Must resist!


Steve

alright for you Steve but here in NZ the price from Nitromodels are ridiculous and the freight ott

Has anybody found an engine that will fit in this plane without having an inch of junk hanging out the bottom
Thanks Tim

The canopies for my ImpScale Bf 109 are too big (80.5") and the Skyshark ones are too small (65") I may try to make a fiberglass one from the parts I have here.

Hey EM,

Depending on the damage yours has suffered, if it's cracked, use stick tape to hold it together, then fill it with plaster of paris and let it set for about 3-4 days, then you can pop it out, sand off the canopy frames, have it painted in 2-pak and then you can vac form another canopy off your plug. by sanding the fames off, you can then lay a layer or two of glass over the newly vac-form's canopy that has been covered in saran wrap ( or whatevery you guys call it in the US, glad wrap here in Oz), and make glass framework for it. then you can fix up any issues with the frame work..

Thanks

Dave

cpsdd56

I have flown mine with an OS 108 and it does a great job pulling it around. Not too much exposed either.

Pics are in this form somewhere.

Steve.

Its a shame RCV dosent make a larger version of their inline , 150 to180 size would be great. With the 2:1 reduction would spin a nice scale prop. I could think of a lot of other planes it would fit in nicely also.

The biggest problem you would face with the 2:1 geared rcv motors is getting them started.
I had an rcv60sp. At first...it started easily because the parts internally had not broken in yet and compression wasnt that high. ocne you run it for a gallon or so, the parts seat together very well, but then getting the stupid thing to start(at the prop using an electric starter) was not possible. And...get this....I couldnt get it started even using the starter on 24volts instead of the standard 12v.
Yes, those SP series motor have a starter adapter thing located at the top back end of the motor, but, then that would require you to drill a sizeable hole in the top of the nose on this plane to get the adapter on the starter down to the hex head part on the motor to spin it since this is an enclosed engine plane. Do you really want to have that big hole there? Sure, you could mount the motor upside down and have a big hole in the bottom cowl piece, but then you'd have to start the plane in a rack upside down everytime. Does that sound like fun?
I think this is why those motors have not gained alot of widespread use and why the rcv CD series of motors are much better sellers.

BTW, I had that rcv60sp on a Fokker DVII because it could spin a big prop and look scale. But, seeing as even that bi-plane has an enclosed engine, the top wing prevented the use of the starter adapter had I want to have a big hole on the top on the cowl. After the motor got broke in some, I was not able to start the motor on the prop using the electric starter mentioned. So, I ended up selling the motor at a loss just to get rid of it.

It looks on their website that it is started with a long driveshaft about 1/4 in around.I could live with trying to hide a 3/8 hole vs. having a 2 in hole in the bottom with a hunk of aluminum hanging out.The evo 26gx seems to hang out the least. Im not crazy about the weedwacker sound but all the 4c engines hang out way to far for me to live with.Even bought a Saito 200ti to try to fit,you ought to see the size of the hole that thing needs. Now I have a 750$ engine I need a plane for. Im at the point of putting the 109 aside untill i can come up with another plan.

Hey Guys,
I just ordered the CMP Messerschmitt and was wondering where the best place is to get the scale wheels and spinner? I'll probably go the acetone route and redo the paint scheme along with weathering. This will be my first Axis plane as I have been flying Corsairs and Mustangs forever. Also, what retracts seem to be the choice for this plane, I was thinking Spring Airs with Robart or Shindin struts.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

Hi All

I would like to comment on the RCV engines. They are not for everyone. You must be extremely patient with them. I have a RCV 120SP on a VQ hurricane. It could use the nose weight.

The RCV 120 SP engine I have took a really long time to break in, it swings a really big prop.

Once broken in (very important) the engine will start by flipping the prop or from the starter bolt in back. My engine will not shut off once started. It idles for ever and is very reliable. No on board glow.

The few things I don't like about it is the muffler will fall off due to more than average vibration. Could have been my spinner and prop. But I don't think so.

The other thing is if you want to use a 3 or 4 blade prop, try to find a reasonably priced 15.75X13 3 blade or a four blade around the same size. On average around $35.00 for the multi blades. Imagine a prop strike. I'm going to get one and mold it if I'm going to run this engine regularly.

Again, its an impressive design, but not for the impatient.

I may take it out of the Hurricane and put it in my next CMP 109 once I find or make a 3 blade that performs well enough to be fun.

Steve

Loopman

Although Shindin makes a retract that fits. I fly one CMP factory 109 wing with Spring Airs and one with Century Jet retracts. The wood rail mounts needed a bit of grinding due to the fact that they are a bit narrow for the standard retract. Maybe 1-2mm removed.

Almost any Spring air type of retract will work. Retract angle not an issue on air systems really.

Steve

Hotrod, I removed my decals with acetone also, took some 0000 and lightly rub the decal , just to get the clear off a little and then rubbed with the acetone, came off pretty good , left a slight shadow like the other fellow mentioned . the new decal covers it anyway . I hope you don't mind but I'll probably use the same paint scheme , needs something !