Since I cannot find any info on a VQ A6M5 Zero builds on this site, I thought I may give it a try.

The box arrived well packaged, as can be seen from the photos. Comes with a 12 page illustrated instruction booklet. Everything was individually wrapped in plastic and tapped. When I removed the wing, there was but a little sag, but no wrinkles. Couple of passes with the hot iron and all is perfect. The covering was well done, the panel lines rivets and the weathering detail was really neat to see on this Zero.

This is just my opinion but the supplied hardware could be better. I don’t think I’ll be using some of the supplied hardware. The spinner requires you to drill a center hole for the crank shaft, and it did not look of a high quality spinner. It came with a red spinner, I wanted it black, so it was not a big deal.

I was debating if I want to install retracts or not. Not sure how the retract will hold up since I fly of grass strip. I did not buy the retracts with the kit, Hobby People had them backordered. Instead, I had a pair of used Hobbico Mechanicals.

While studying my instruction manual and trying to see how to rout the push rod for the retracts and looking on the net trying to find information and found something on Hobby People’s Web site. The instruction came with my ARF was missing the retract push rod details, but I found them on the instruction manual posted on Hobby People’s web site. It helps to have a reference on how to bend the retract push rod, rather than trial on error.

Well, got to go for now…. Stayed tuned

We have the ZERO RETRACTS INSTOCk...

We are VQ WARBIRDS and SPECIALIZE in VQ WARBIRDS

we also deal in ASM, KMP , MAGNUM ENGINES, RCV ENGINES, AIRTRONICS RADIO, HITEC SERVOS, ROBART , CJM GEAR!

Let us know how we may assist you... JUST EMAIL US DIRECT:

[email protected]

-TOMAS
VQ WARBIRDS
www.vqwarbirds.com

KEEP US INFORMED ON YOUR PROGRESS , I WILL BE WATCHING WITH GREAT INTEREST

Thanks Tomas for the links. Here is more Zero-322.

As I get into the kit I found all the wood was laser cut. Nicely done, VQ even supplied two laser cut engine mounting templates (see pics). I have pictures of the templates, wing center brace and a shot down the wing showing the nicely laser cut ribs. Also supplied a pic to show that nylon pin hinge was used and all control surface was pre-hinged.

Although it was advertised that you could used the fixed landing gear supplied and mount retracts later, I think one should make that decision before assembly rather than later. Makes the routing of the retract push rod easier. The fix landing gear supplied was stout with double coil over and was of good quality steel. I decided to use retracts and use the supplied gear rather than the Hobbico single coil landing gear. So a little cutting had to be done.

Had to break up my posts to fit the photos in.

I have a few shots to show the Aileron and Retract servo mounting locations. Noticed the hardwood mounting rails for the retract servo. Also noticed the details in the printed covering.

As I tried to fit the retract, I noticed a few things. I had to cut the ABS plastic in the retract opening back to the mounting rails to allow the Hobbicos to drop in. Also, the Hobbico retracts needs to be modified to allow the coil over to come to the retracted position. I don’t know but maybe Tomas at VQ Warbird can tell us if the VQ retract will not have this problem. (Thanks Tomas, now I got another web site in my favorites… Looking forward to see the P38.) Basically, a corner of the Hobbico retract had to be filed away, to allow the coil to sit in the retracted position without interference (see pic.) Also, noticed I had to cut the ABS wheel well, this cut served two purpose. One, to allow the coil to come down in the retracted position, second the ABS wheel well does not sit flush on the retract mounting rails… there is an 1/8” gap ( I am trying to show this with a wire in the gap.)

More pics.

Double check the bends on your push rods. The half circle should be at 90* from the clevis bend.

LOL I HAVE YET TO RUN ACROSS AN ARF THAT DIDN'T NEED SOME ATTENTION OR MODIFYING OF SOME KIND TO GET THE RETRACTS TO WORK OR LOOK RIGHT , AND JUST LIKE SNOW FLAKES NO TWO ARE THE SAME , YOU SEEM TO HAVE A PRETTY GOOD HANDLE ON IT ,, THE FACT THEY GIVE YOU A TEMPLATE FOR THE ENGINE MOUNTING IS A VERY NICE TOUCH !

Gents .,,, THE VQ ZERO RETRACTS DROP IN....

HOBBICO are workable.. VQ BRAND drop right in!

BTW.. the plastic liner in the retract mount area.... all you do is cut the plastic to free it from the sides and let it fall into place on the rail... I don't have a photo this moment...but in a few days or so I will post a photo...
It is one of those things I learned a long time ago while assembling my GP, CMP, H9 ARFS...

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

=TOMAS
VQ WARBIRDS

I just started building my VQ zero and I wanted to add my 2 cents worth,this is one of the nicest built arf kits I have seen in years,I have been flying for over 20 years and have built alot of arf planes,so I can say these VQ models are incredible for the price and Tomas has been very supportive since I got the kit,I truly cant believe the quality of hardware and plastic parts they come with,most arf's have garbage plastic peices these are thick flexible and very strong.It is a very simple kit to assemble and the retracts (with minimal trimming) fit and work great.I would recommend these kits highly and plan to build several more.I think engine wise I might use a 70 size four stroke,and as soon as it get a little further along I will post a picture or two,good luck with your build Juggernaut and I will watch for any tricks you might use building yours..............Randy

HEY JUGG HOW ABOUT POSTING SOME PIC ! HOW'S THE PROGRESS GOING ?

Sorry for the delay guys… Trying to balance my hobbies with wife and kids over the holiday season. In fact, I was asked not to do any building during Christmas day, and of course when the in-laws are visiting and New Years Eve… etc. I guess my wife does share my enthusiasm on RC modeling. For those of you with more understanding wife… all I can say is I am jealous.

If I may suggest to others considering this ARF, decide if you want fix gear –vs- retracts before you glue the wing halves together if you intend to use standard push rods. I did have to remove some material on the root rib to allow free movement of the retract push rod. This is because as the servo rotates it will bind as the push rod is brought forward toward the leading edge (see pics). Also, I had to cut the plywood plates supplied for use with fixed gear to be used as the “plywood buffer” (see pic) called for in the instruction. I am guessing this is to raise the landing gear wire up above the wing so that the ABS gear cover will not get pulled into the wheel well… maybe? I am not sure at this moment if it is needed with my Hobbicos, well see later.

When I was installing the landing gear wire into the Hobbico retract I filed a small flat spot on it for the set screw to catch on. I also put a little toe-in to help with ground tracting. This is all for now, will joint the wing halves next.

Well, had a chance to glue the wing halves together. I trial fitted everything before applying the Epoxy. The wings of this ARF were well made and everything fitted together nicely. I used masking tape to protect the push rods, keeping them from being glued. Applied generous amounts of Epoxy and pulled the wing halves together. I used cloth pin, binder clips and rubber band to pull the two halves tight while the Epoxy cured.
Of course use rubbing alcohol to clean up the access Epoxy oozing out of the joint, and applied tape to the bottom of the wing keeping the Epoxy from oozing more as it cures.

Here are a few shots of the fuselage for those of you considering this ARF. All the ply was laser cut and glue joints are nicely done. The ARF has a build in battery tray up front in front of the fire wall. Regardless if you like the concept or not, its kind of refreshing that an ARF manufacturer considers that kind of detail in a model. Couple of other things to point out, there are two positions to mount the on/off switch, gives the modeler their preference in radio installation. Also, there are nylon thread inserts in the wing bolt plate. It was had to take a picture and show the insert, but they are there. The black plastic push rod tubes are installed but not glued. This allows you to set them to your liking and glue them in. Overall I am pleased with the model so far.

SO FAR I AM REALLY LIKEING THIS ARF CAN'T WAIT TO SEE HER FINISHED , WHAT HAVE YOU DECIDED ON ENGINE WISE ?

Zero,

I plan on using a Saito 56 4-Stroke, but am a little concerned on the prop clearance. Would like to use a 12x6, but may only have less than an inch of prop ground clearance.

I mounted the motor mount yesterday. I first extended the center mark on the fire wall and line up the template to mark the center of the bolt holes. I drilled the motor mount holes and after I finished I realized something. There was a key hole shaped piece of plywood supplied in the bag with all the landing gear hardware (see pic.). That piece so happen to fit right into the fire wall cut out (see pic.). If you tack glued it on to the fire wall and use a screw to hold the motor mount template through the center. This would work quite well and allows one to drill for the motor mount perfectly. Mine turned out o.k. but if I had to do it again…

more pics...

As I examine the nylon motor mount I see quite a bit of un-evenness (see pic.). So I laid it on a flat piece of 220 grid sand paper and lightly sanded the burr off. After mounting I can see that the mounts are not parallel (see pic.)

Well, I guess the nylon mounts are somewhat flexible, and may be I can pull it together a little with a clamp and mount the engine. Not sure if it is a good idea… but I’ll try it.

I ran into another problem, the instruction call out the prop washer to be 106 to 108mm from the fire wall. The throttle barrel is rubbing up against the corner of the motor mount, and the steel washer. Pushing the Saito 56 back as far as it will go and still allow the throttle lever to rotate freely, the prop washer will be 112mm from the fire wall. I guess that would be o.k….

Now, another problem. One of the motor mount is not flat, it has a slight taper where the engine is to be mounted. And it is like that on both sides…. I need to think what I want to do… replace it? use it?

pics...

I know that this may seem to be a stupid question , but is it possible that the motor mount was off by that much because that is mabey how the manufacture built into the model down and right thrust as apossed to building it into the firewall ? just a thought seemed to me to be a to big of a diffrence to be a accident , just thinking mabey it was done on purpose ? let me know either way

In practice I have found the mounts to just pull square under pressure.
They are not great but I have Saito 72's and even ASP 91's hanging off them with no problems.

The GRP is flexible enough to 'square off' under the pressure from the mounting bolts.
But you have to careful not to do them up too tight or you will create more distortion.

Zero,

I double checked after reading your note. No, both the down thrust and the right thrust are built into the fire wall. After much thought and trying to fit other types of mounts I have I decided just stay with the supplied mounts and pull them together a little with a clamp.

Hey Jugernaut47203

I have a few VQ models as well ..(P-51B ShangriLa, P-51D Obsession, P-40 Stud, H/ Hurricane, P-39..)
It seems that the guy who makes these kits has put a lot of effort to make good work. I am astonished even on the hardware that he is using.
The zero is also an eyecatcher. keep us posted with your work!
Happy flights
J.R.

Had a chance to work on the Zero a little bit more. Now that the decision on using the original supplied engine mount has been made, I proceed to install the engine and fuel tank. Using a push rod and file a point on it (see pic) as a tool to mark the fire wall where the throttle push rod will go through. Install the engine on the engine mount and set the throttle at the mid point between idle and full throttle. This is done because the throttle lever moves in an arc and will move the push rod up and down, this will provide equal space for up and down movement of the push rod. Mark the fire wall (see pic), and then drill a 3/32” hole. The kit supplied a ‘Z’ bend push rod for the throttle. Put the push rod through the fire wall and through the laser cut slot on former F2 and hook up the throttle and mount the engine. You should have a free moving throttle push rod.