I haven't started my first build yet, but just trying to figure out the wiring in my head while i wait for the hull...

this is what i'll be using,

6volt SLA 10 or 12Ah battery (im guessing either F1 or F2 terminals)
gruapner speed 600 eco 7.2v brushed motor
pro boat waterproof ESC w/ reverse

im not even sure what gauge wire i should be using, is 14, 16 or 18 sound about right ? im guessing it's copper wire, right? black and red... that come in like 15 ft spools.

id like to add a jack to the deck that connects to the battery (i guess by some sort of connector, rather not solder directly) so i can just plug in the charger with out having to take the battery out, etc....would a gold phono/RCA plug+jack work for this? just solder on the wires to the jack then solder on some sort of connector to the wires so i can easily connect it to the battery....and then i guess i'll have to cut off the aligator connectors on the charger and solder on the RCA plug....wouldn't that work? thou, not sure how id wire it to the battery properly...so it would charge.

id also like to add a couple LEDs lights to the deck that turn on by a waterproof switch, and have those connected to the battery somehow, guess i'll have to use a resistor...or i could have a small seperate battery just for the LEDs...i already have 5mm LEDs, just will need the cases/slots/jacks (or whatever they are called) to mount them on the deck etc....so then id just solder the wires to the LED and then to the battery by another connector....boy i hope im making sense...haha

a diagram would really help...

i made up this diagram real fast but donno if it's correct...

16 Gauge wire should work fine 14 would be better.

I'm not totally sure what you mean by the connector for charging. I would use deans connectors.

- One female deans on the battery
- One Male deans connected with 2 Females to split the power and distribute it. Called a Parallel Y connector
- One Male deans on the ESC
- One Male deans for the lighting power
- One Male deans for the charger

You would then unplug the female deans on the battery connected to the y connector and plug the charger lead in to the battery.


If you are only using a small amount of LED's for the boat I would have each LED using its own resistor. The resistor would be place in series with the LED and each LED/Resistor set would be in parallel coming off the male deans connector and switch.

To determine the resistor needed you need to know the forward voltage and current of the LED. Then plug all the numbers in to this calculator.

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

The Diagram was quickly drawn and only shows limited detail.

Ryan

Your diagram would work. The only things I would change is when charging your battery you may leave the main power on draining the battery while charging it. I'd try to prevent this by having to unplug the main feed to everything and plugging in the charging lead.. Also your LED's will need a resistor so it's better to start with higher voltage than what they need. I'd also tap this power off your 6v battery instead of using AA's.

Ryan

I'm in agreement with ryan, however I'd go one step further with this charging jack and just do what most of us do. Most people dont like leaving the battery in the boat since there are fire hazards, however we could leave in the boat and just hook unplug the batteries from the esc and plug the battery in the charger. You dont have to take them out and I admit sometimes I just leave them in since I'm lazy and comfortable with my charger and batts.

If I may ask, what do you need two servos for?

Also you dont really need an on/off switch, I've never used one.

I modified your diagram to reflect what I'm suggesting
definitely use deans connector throughout as ryan suggested

if the power switch is off....then wouldn't it not be draining while charging? if i don't even have to take off my inespection hatch to charge the battery, then that's just a plus....because i'll thot about a solar panel charging too....when im in the dreaded sun, i could keep the boat topped when im not using it...etc. i mean, if that would work....i don't want to damage the battery or anything.
i like the idea of having a power switch for some reason. i know it's all in my head.

i need two servos because one is for the rudder... and the other one is for the fish food hopper...it will release the trap doors so the food drops into the water.


so deans connectors is the ticket it sounds like....should i use those instead of the bullet connectors on the motor too?

instead of the led switch wires directly going to the battery terminals, id like for another dean connector....so i guess id have to make a three way dean connector, one to the ESC and then to the LED switch....and then the last one goes to the battery terminals. not sure if that would work thou?

I just keep to the keep it simple attitude. Although you could use a swith on the battery, I see it as a weak point, especially since it has to be good for 25amps or more. What you could do is put a wire out the side of the boat that loops around and back into the boat. Racers use these so they dont chop their arm off when handling an otherwise armed boat. Basically you just run the + wire out the side of the boat and loop it back into a gold plated bullet connector. This imo would be better than a switch.

I dont see a problem with a charger jack. I just thought it was unnecessary.

I would use a deans connector on the motor. Definitely. The whole trick with getting the most power out of your setup, is short thick gauge wire (14 gauge imo) and low resistance connectors. Combined with a low friction drive setup, will give the best efficiency.

I just thought a toggle switch for turning it on, and a charging jack gives it more of a professional look....at least imo.

given the battery, ESC & motor i'll be using....im wondering if a 15amp switch would be enough. im not sure what amps id be running...is there a way to figure that out?

i had to check my LEDs ratings, and most of them are from 3.0 to max of 3.6 forward voltage & 20 max forward current, so i went with 150 ohm 1/8W resistors. i gotta now find watertight 5mm LED mounts+lenses that would look good on the boat.

i stopped by radioshack to see if they have the proper wire, but they don't even carry 14 gauge...will have to look else where. i probably could get away with using 18 or 16 gauge for the LEDs thou.

You could easily get away with 22 or 24 Gauge wire for the LEDS. They only take 0.020 Amps each.

150 ohm resistor will work great when using power from your main battery - 6v.

As far as a switch is concerned the motor will draw as many amps as it needs to in order to spin the prop. A larger prop will draw more amps. I've logged the 7.2v Graupner 600 motor at about 21A - 26A on 6 cells pushing a mono. It gets pretty warm at that rate.

Ryan

I picked up some 22 gauge wire for the LEDs, but ive been having a hard time finding any sort of 5mm LED mounting for the deck. i thot about using [link=http://www.ragebattery.com/batterystore/SLA-12-6A.html]this battery[/link]instead, it already has a connector on it...and if im not mistaken, it's 14 gauge wire, just gotta cut off that connector and add on a female deans ultra. then use micro deans for the LEDs....note the diagram. this looks like your diagram ryan, i think it does at least? thou, wouldn't using the deans ultras be over kill for the LEDs?

woops...forgot to add the switches.

Yes, looks good. Deans Ultra on the LED would be overkill but so would Deans micro connectors. Any connector out there will work fine for the LEDs.

Ryan

i just got my radio, and i noticed there is a battery plug for for the RX, does it need a seperate batt, or does it run throu the battery that is connected to the ESC (which is connected to the RX)?

Yes it runs throught the ESC by means of a BEC - Battery Elimination Circuit. The 6v Main battery voltage will be dropped to a safe voltage of 5-5.5v for the RX and servos.

Ryan

okay cool i went ahead and got that ProBoat Waterproof ESC w/Reverse: 4.8-12V

and i think im going to be using [link=http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1876/ele-39/5mm_Chrome_LED_Clip.html]these LED clips[/link], but im still waiting to hear back what color are the lenses, im hoping they are clear and not just red. i plan on using green LEDs. and im thinking in my head how to wire them with the resistors....if i should solder on the tiny resistors onto the LED lead itself, or should solder it on the positive wire, with wire coming off both ends of the resistor, and then take a tiny peice of shrink tubing to cover up the solder joints to make it look better, etc...and then solder on the ends of the wire to the LED leads...by wrapping the wire around the LEDs....and cover the joints in shrink tubing...lol..i hope that wasn't too confusing.

ive decided im not going to use a switch for "turning on the boat" (at least not right now) but will use a switch for the LEDs so ive updated the diagram..

Diagram looks perfect. Those LED clips would make for a clean looking install.

I was thinking about the setup here and if you DID want a switch for the main power this is what I would do. Before the Y split to the LED's and ESC, after the male deans from the battery, I would solder in a female deans. This connector would have to be soldered in series with either the negative lead or the positive lead. Then you would grab a male deans and solder 14AWG wire across the terminal posts for the leads. After this is complete you have created a switch where you plug in the male connector to turn on the boat or remove the male connector to kill all power.

Ryan

i got the ESC...and knew this before but noticed a on/off switch connected, i wondering if i could just cut that switch off and add on an toggle switch and mount it on the deck...wouldn't that work?

Then you may want to look at this..

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7543461/tm.htm

nice boat....don't be ashamed your a carp angler mate...so am I.

i went ahead and replaced the bullet & tamiya connectors on the ESC with male deans, and i was not 100% sure...but I figured the red wires were positive and the black (that goes to the battery) and blue (goes to the motor) were negative. the soldering was no problem. i should have the 6 volt SLA battery early next week...will replace the A terminal connector (for power wheels) with a female deans.

i will be using these lights, the large green one in the front, and the two small red ones in the back....but im trying to figure how i could wire them to the 6 volt in series...figure that would be easier and less tacky (wire wise) instead of wiring 3 wires together, etc. im not sure what the amp rating they are, but i should know soon.

im wondering if this would work for the lights...

What's the current and forward voltage and where is your resistor? It may work but need the info.

Ryan