Some place, can't find it now, I saw somebody sheeting their foam wing with gorilla glue. I don't remember the process. I assume it is more or less like using epoxy or regular wood glue. I just am unsure about the amount to use and if it should be "wet" or not. I know you need to weight it heavily for curing just like epoxy. . Also working time is a question. Could somebody that's done this give me the nickle tour?

Thanks!

Ken

I wouldn't use Gorrila glue.

I've sheeted better than a dozen wings and never considered using that product.

I've said this many times.

Lay out and join your 1/16" sheeting, four pieces. Mark each one.

Take the four sheets and the two foam cores to your local Formica cabinet or counter top place.

They have absolutely the best contact cement on the planet. They spray it!

Walk in, ask for who is in charge. Explain what you need. In fact, no explanation is necessary, they do hundreds of laminating.

They will spray and sheet those puppies for you, and I'll bet you won't even be charged.

Laugh? Sure, all you want, but I've actually done this.

These cores were sheeted over 15 years ago. Pulled them out of the box, I had them in storage. Started working on them agan.

Ihave used Poly glue to sheet wings. It works well. You use the same as you would epoxy. The wood should be damp with glue but not wet. Sand and dust the cores well. I prefer vacuum bagging but with poly glue is slows the drying process and reduces the foaming. Not really an issue, you just have to laeve them in the bag for 24 hrs. I also don't glue the sheeting together, I tape them together and the glue will foam into the seam. Poly glue is very sandable so the seams are not visable under your covering. That being said, my preference is epoxy for sheeting wings. Mainly because I usually add fiberglass and/or CF reenforcements between the foam and sheeting, This can only be done with epoxy.

There is a really good spray adhesive at Menards that say epoxy on the label, It might be worth a try, I used to use the 3M adhesive.

Also I HAVE used the Gorilla glue on a 3D profile plane once, and its very tricky to do right compared to the spray adhesive. I think they called for using close to 100 pounds of weight on a 40 sized wing !! the advantage of that was they were forcing the glue to go deeper into the foam core, not just adhere to it...

SRT, has the right idea. Without a vacumn bag set-up I wouldn't try it. I use West epoxy and a vac bag for my wings.

I have heard that using Gorilla glue can be tricky. I still use 3M spray adhesive which works great, as I have wings that are decades old that are still going strong.

Karol

Hi!
I have used Polyurethan glue (Think it's the same as what you call Gorrila glue) for years om my pylonracer wings.
It's much better than any spray contact glue you can find.
Just spread out a thin layer of glue on the balsa sheet (you have to tape together the balsa sheets first) and then spray some water mist on the sheet and finnaly put the sheet in the foam core and lay it between two thick wooden peices and use some sturdy clamps to press it all togheter.

Naaaa.

We've been sheeting foam cores for many years before anyone even considered using the vacuum technique.

I'm sheeting the wing cores on a Sig Mustang 450. The tips of the cores are very thin, maybe 1/4 inch and under-cambered. They will have to be in the shucks to cure. I've used white glue and epoxy with good results. I just thought I'd give the Gorilla/poly glue a try. Oh, I assume that if you have to mist it with water it is a poly glue, correct?

One of the big disadvantages I had with with the white glue/epoxy combination is additional weight.

Karol

Depending on what you intend to power that airplane with should change what you use. With the right engine, that airplane is good for 120-130 mph. If I was building it, I would use epoxy and make sure I add a wing joiner and glass the center section. Fast airplanes with thin wings are more prone to wing failures. I know this first hand!

Minn, obviously you forgot about the picture I posted a few years ago where the unibrain grew out of a wing I had skinned with GG. No more of that nonsense with the bag.

I used to race QM way back in the day. Yup, seen a couple of wings do that!! Never mine though. The center section will be glassed as will the entire wing with 3/4 oz glass and epoxy. I'm hoping 130 will be on the conservative side I'm thinking about electric??????????

The Sig Mustang 450 was hopelessly out of date by the time I was racing Formula One, so I never have seen one firsthand. By the late 80's, top F1's were pushing around 175 mph on the course, and some have exceeded 200 mph in longer straight line passes verified by radar. It just takes power, which 65% nitro burning 40's could produce at 27,000+ rpm.

As to wing strength, I could support the wings close to the tips and stand on the center section without a failure, and this was after some damage was sustained in a crash. Of course, I only weighed about 165 lbs then. The key to strength was 3/32 skins, 1/8 spar, 3/4 oz cloth, and 3 layers of 2 oz cloth of staggered widths at the center section.

I agree withe the 450 being out of date. I guess that's the reason it has set for the last 30 years without being built. I just finished one wing panel on the 450. Used Elmer's brand poly glue. I decided to do one panel at a time so as not to feel rushed. It is curing as I type I'll post a photo or two of the mess after it's done doing it's thing.

I'll have to say applying the poly glue was as easy or easier that epoxy. I was afraid the open time would be and issue. After the fact I was thinking having a notched trowel would be the ticket to getting an even coverage. Anybody who's laid ceramic tile will know what I'm talking about. Does anybody have any ideas about a notched trowel with about a 1/32 notch or a bit smaller????

ken

Gorilla glue (poly glue) works awesome. I roll the glue on the cores with a small foam roller until all of the color is gone. Just a shine or sheen is all that's needed. Mist your skins, assemble and clamp firmly between pieces of MDF. The glue will expand into the foam, attach itself to the balsa and never let go. Even better, virtually no weight gain. This is an extremely strong bond.

Hi!
Yes! And if you want thin, hard, (razor sharp) rear edges on your wing you put in some 24 hour epoxy and carbon fiber under the rear parts of the balsa sheets prior to putting the balsa sheets together.
Polyurethan glue and 24 hour epoxy cure even if they are slightly mixed.

Well, after setting all night I pulled the first sheeted wing out of the shucks this morning. Some of the glue foamed out and stuck to the shucks, but no big deal, a little sandpaper will take care of that. The shucks were "paper" thin near the rood so basically they have been destroyed. At this point it does not make any difference. I still think this is as easy or easier than epoxy. My concern about the open time was unfounded. PLENTY of time to get it done.

dhal22.... I used a squeegee to apply the glue. I used the same technique as applying glass to the outside. If it looks wet and shiny you have too much on, if it looks dry you need a bit more.

I think I'm going to start a build thread in "Kit Building" on this. See ya there

Hi fellows: In my search for information on covering foam wings, I found an article by a well known scale scratch builder who made the statement, "Use only epoxy", for an adhesive. His trial and error over the years lead him to use this adhesive so that any alignment problems could be corrected before the epoxy cured. Other articles suggested using a small paint roller
so that only a light coat was applied. Returning the wings to the shucks, and weighting them down brought forth good covered wings.
My reading about the expansion by the gorilla glues, was not something I wanted to contend with. I have several models with foam wings to cover this winter, and after edge gluing the balsa sheets together, will attach them to the foam cores using 45 min epoxy. I have several articles on covering foam wings, and can send copies, or internet sites if I am contacted.

[email protected]

Areo

See my post directly above yours. Using the poly glue was no different than using epoxy. I've done both now! I started building back in "75" so I've tried a few methods, white glue, regular contact adhesive (melted the foam on first ever foam wing), yellow glue, Mighty Tacky glue, epoxy and now poly. Plenty of time to get things right as far as alignment in the shucks. You do cut your skins oversize don't you? I leave at least 1/2 inch on all sides. Wings came out just fine. IMO, who cares if you get a bit of foaming out a crack in the sheeting. I had one sheet foam through in the middle of the sheet. Must have been a worn hole???? Anyway I know I have a good bond that way.

As far as I'm concerned I just found a new best friend in poly glue. At least in the sheeting department. Oh, leading and trailing edges also[sm=thumbup.gif]