Jacs,
Set your rudder servo to neutral. adjust your pushrod to to set your Rudder at neutral.
This is all that can be done. If you have more travel one way I wouldn't worry about it.

gbzflyer,
You must be another covering master.
Where do you get Solartex?

I'm not too satisfied with the outcome of mine.
I've brushed on some color.

Jacs,
I do need to fill in the transition from the covering to the plastic parts on the front of the fillets. I'm going to paint the black and red trim, then overspray with a clear coat for fuel proofing and easier cleanup. I'm not looking for a smooth finish and hope that the clear coat will do the job. I have a friend who did this to his Waco and it turned out well.

Zpat,
Thanks for the nice comment. I try to take my time, and walk away from it when I need to. I got the Solortex from Balsa USA. They're located an hour north of me in Michigan.
Mike

gbzflyer

Forget what I said in the previous post because I looked at my big plane and I couldn't see them and there is only three layers of Plastic Paddings Clear coat. The reason for my post earlier was that when I airbrushed I could see them but I think that the clear coat fix that problem now, still need to try it but no problem.

Zpat

Nice color, did you glue the stab on before you started covering ?
And how about those fisheye hooks?

I need to order new servos before I do anything else, then total weight with only two servos and no covering was 835 gr, engine OS .46SX with original muffler 470 gr. So I hope that I stay withiÂ*n limits.

One thing that eat my shorts is that I don't have those plastic parts yet or can I skip them and continue with the wing fillet.

I covered the stab and then glued it in. Then I covered the fuselage.
I used the loops from fish hooks to anchor the flying wires.

It seems to me you have been waiting on the plastic parts for a while!
I would say that you don't need the plastic to construct the fillits.

OK, I thought that WF1 was under the plastic part. The plastic parts have been traveling now for almost 6 weeks so it should come soon I think. When I ordered the drawing from RCM nothing happened for 8 weeks and after a little complaints they sent a new one with airmail instead and 1 week later the airmail arrived on a Monday and what do you know a new package came on Tuesday and that one was my first order. They had put on the wrong zip code so our mail service had sent it to another part of Sweden before they checked which town that was printed. So I think that the same has happened here in this case but I sure hope that they aren't ruined.

Hey it's me again

Wing former 3 shall be glued to wingsadle and former 3 or what ?

I am going to purchase and build the Great Planes Gee Bee ARF. I was wondering where I could get the wires that attach to the wing to the fuselage, wing to main gear, gear to fuselage. I looked at the Adrian Page website, but didn't see any part or option to buy that. I was just wondering if anyone knew of any suggestions of what I could make these out of, or where I could get a kit for it or part. Also what is the correct name for them? Thank You Nick Mathews

I am planning on purchasing the Great Planes Gee Bee ARF. It does not come with the support wires that attach to the wing to fueslage, wing to main gear, main gear to fuselage. I was wondering where I can get the materials to create this myself, or if there are any kits I can get. I have already looked at the Adrian Page web site, they do not offer any parts for that or a kit. Also what are the correct name for these "wires." Thank you Nick Mathews

You can take witch wire you want that fitts. I haven't looked at that problem yet, but I have fishing wire 60lbs at home that I'm maybe are going to use for this.

I went to Hobby Lobby and found small eye hooks in the "make your own jewelry" section and silver elastic cord in the fabric section.
Mike

Did you go to the online store? Or the physical store? Because I cant find any eye hooks or silver elastic cord on the site. Sorry about the double post people, didn't think the first wen't through. Thanks for the help.

Serial7hri11er,
I went to the local store here in Green Bay. I don't know if every store is set up the same way. You might look at a fabric store for the elastic cord and a sporting goods store that sells fishing gear for the eye hooks.
Adrian Page calls them "Flying Wires" or "Rigging" on his website when he describes them. He also mentions using elastic cord. They are just for effect and not functional.
Mike

Someone who know's

Jacs,
I'm looking at my plans and instruction manual, and I'm having a hard time figuring out your question. Are you talking about the 2 curved wing saddle pieces that follow the contour of the wing, or the wing fillet formers that make up the wing fillets? Please give us some more information.
Mike

You have WF1-3 and WF1-2 are glued to fuselage and the question is around the WF3 that are like a wedge and you have WF4 that are a piece of liteply 1/8 thick.

Jacs,
Measure back 1 1/4" from the front edge of the fillet base.This is where WF1 gets glued. WF2 lines up with former F3 and WF3 gets lined up with former F4. WF1-3 get glued to the fillet base and the side of the fuse. They should force the fillet base to lay flat against the wing. The wing should be attached to the fuse when you are gluing them on. There is a lite ply wing fillet part that gets glued to the back edge of the fillet base. This piece gets glued to the back edge of the fillet base and the stringer that lines up off the back of it. After WF1-3 and the trailing wing fillet part is glued in place, you need to glue a 1/32" lite ply strip to the side of the fuse. It starts at the top of WF2, runs down to the top of WF3, and ends at the back edge of the trailing wing fillet part. You then need to sheet the wing fillet in 3 pieces. Start at the front and sheet between WF1 and WF2. The sheet gets glued to the fuse, follows the contour of the former, and finishes at the edge of the fillet base. The sheet should only be glued to the front half of WF2. The second sheet starts at the back half of WF2 and goes to the front half of WF3. It gets glued to the lite ply strip that runs between WF2 and WF3, runs down the contour of the formers, and finishes at the edge of the fillet base. The third sheet starts at the back half of WF3 and goes to the end of the trailing wing fillet part. It gets glued to the lite ply strip that runs between WF3 and the end of the trailing fillet part, runs down the contour of the former, and gets glued to the curved edge of the trailing fillet part. You need to wet the sheeting so that it doesn't crack when you form it to the contour of the formers.
Mike

Okay, So WF3 has a shape of an triangle and get glued on former 4 and not against wingsadle and along with former 4 because if I place it inline with former 4 it extends to much.

See pictures

Here is a picture showing that WF1 if 15 mm behind former 2.

My precut WF3 former was contoured to match the shape of the fuse where it gets attached at former 4. The top side was also concave like WF1 and WF2. It was long enough on the base side to go all the way from the fuse to the end of the fillet base, just like WF1 and WF2.
Adrian's manual says to glue WF1, 1 1/4" (31.75mm), from the front of the fillet base. Is that about the same as 15 mm behind former 2?
Mike

I don't know where fillet base are located ? (English word again)

Looking at your picture of WF3 laying on top of the fillet base, I didn't see what WF1 or WF2 looks like. Are they all triangle in shape? If so, then Adrian must have modified his plans to give the fillets a more scale like shape. My kit came with precut pieces for WF1-3. They were all shaped to fit flush with the fuse, flat on the bottom to lay against the fillet base, and concave on the top.
Mike

You have the fillet base already glued to the fuse wing saddle formers.

I can see it in your second and third picture.

Okay, then I know that but problem is that WF1-2 are shaped after fuselage with no problem at all. Maybe not glued in a 90 degrees angle but in that area. 15 mm behind former 2 is a straight measurement and WF2 is in line with Former 2. Problem is that WF3 is a triangle and Okay I can modify it to have the shape of Former 4 with no problems. Al I want is to get this done, Rear wing fillet sheet 1.5 mm thick goes from WF4 and to WF2 in one piece.

Today it finaly came. My plastic parts have manage to swim over the Atlantic.

One stupid question like always. I think it's the wingfillet but I'm not sure on how to cut it. There are some edges that I think is where I should put the knife in.