Scale Gee Bee Z question.
#126
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From: Green Bay,
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Jacs,
Those are the 2 fronts to the wing fillets, a right and a left side piece. It's kind of hard to describe how to cut them out. Try to take a close look at them to visualize how they would fit. I'll take a picture of mine that are attached to the fuse when I get home tonight.
Mike
Those are the 2 fronts to the wing fillets, a right and a left side piece. It's kind of hard to describe how to cut them out. Try to take a close look at them to visualize how they would fit. I'll take a picture of mine that are attached to the fuse when I get home tonight.
Mike
#128
Senior Member
Hi again
Either I'm stupid and don't know how to read a drawing or the drawing is wrong. The wing fillet base is only 10cm from wingsadle and out and WF1-2, 4 goes to wing fillet end and hits fuselage. But the plastic parts extendes more (2-2.5 cm extra) and the rear wing fillet sheet is 10cm wide and it also extendes 2-2.5 cm more.
Either I'm stupid and don't know how to read a drawing or the drawing is wrong. The wing fillet base is only 10cm from wingsadle and out and WF1-2, 4 goes to wing fillet end and hits fuselage. But the plastic parts extendes more (2-2.5 cm extra) and the rear wing fillet sheet is 10cm wide and it also extendes 2-2.5 cm more.
#129
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From: Green Bay,
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I'm glad that one of my pictures showed you how it looks. Let me know if you need a closer look at it.
My fillet base is 4 7/8" (124 mm) from the wing saddle out. The plastic parts may be sized to the kit Adrian sells now and not to the plans you have. You will need to trim the end of the plastic piece flush to the end of your fillet base. It should still look good.
Mike
My fillet base is 4 7/8" (124 mm) from the wing saddle out. The plastic parts may be sized to the kit Adrian sells now and not to the plans you have. You will need to trim the end of the plastic piece flush to the end of your fillet base. It should still look good.
Mike
#130
Senior Member
That was a good idea. I think that also the WF1 shall not be located 15 mm behind F2 instead 1 1/4"=31mm behind like you said. But my drawings says 15 mm behind so what to do. I'm currently glueing the 3/8"x1/32" piece to fuselage.
#132
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From: OH
Well, I guess it's reassuring to know I'm not the only one who had trouble with the fillets. I had so much trouble figuring them out, that I re-designed them from scratch. They're not exactly scale, but they work.
Keep up the good work guys.
Dan.
Keep up the good work guys.
Dan.
#134
Senior Member
Nicely done, I want that to
.
Can't understand why nothing happens to my plane, have to work like huh! at work and at home. I want to build.
.Can't understand why nothing happens to my plane, have to work like huh! at work and at home. I want to build.
#135

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From: Orange County,
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TRY GOING TO WWW.NELSONHOBBY.COM, THEY MAKE FLYING WIRES. i',M GOING TO LOOK INTO THEM FOR MY 1/4 SCALE R-2.
#138
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From: Green Bay,
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Here's a few updated pictures. Getting the wire landing gear and tires lined up with the wheel pants has been the most work so far.
I got the decals with the kit for all the small lettering, but what are you guys using for the "4" on the fuse and the numbers and letters on the wing? Maybe a sign shop?
I'll be working on mounting the engine and cowl next.
Mike
I got the decals with the kit for all the small lettering, but what are you guys using for the "4" on the fuse and the numbers and letters on the wing? Maybe a sign shop?
I'll be working on mounting the engine and cowl next.
Mike
#140
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From: Green Bay,
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Zpat,
Bykerdan's post said that the decal sheet was from a 1/32 scale static display model. The decal sheet that came with Adrian's kit doesn't have the large letters and numbers for the fuse and wing. I didn't want to paint them on when I did the trim. I'm thinking of going to a sign shop and have them made.
Mike
Bykerdan's post said that the decal sheet was from a 1/32 scale static display model. The decal sheet that came with Adrian's kit doesn't have the large letters and numbers for the fuse and wing. I didn't want to paint them on when I did the trim. I'm thinking of going to a sign shop and have them made.
Mike
#141
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From: Lima, OH,
It seems strange that Adrian wouldn't have the decals available. My experience with mylar grapics and glow fuel is that the fuel works under the grapics and they blow off.
I guess you could seal everything with a clear coat.
By the way, what does your Gee Bee weigh?
I guess you could seal everything with a clear coat.
By the way, what does your Gee Bee weigh?
#142

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From: Berwick, NS, CANADA
Having decals made is a very expensive undertaking. I just cut my numbers out of trim sheet. I cut the number out of black trim sheet and stick it on to red trim sheet then cut the number out again 1/16th bigger. That gives me a pinstripe that won't come off. Then I stick it on the plane using the "soapy suds" method. I use a straight edge and X-acto knife and scissors. The only curved line in the whole thing is in the "R". It's pretty easy.
Adrian
Adrian
#144
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From: Green Bay,
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Zpat,
The plane and engine weigh 5 lbs. 3 oz. That's without radio gear or tank. I hope it comes in under 6 lbs. I'm going to run a Sito .72 4 stroke in it, so it should get off the ground.
Adrian,
Thanks for the info on the large number and letters.
Jacs,
It was fun instant messaging with you on Sunday. I hope to do it again soon. I've attached a couple of pictures that you requested. Let me know if you need any more.
Mike
The plane and engine weigh 5 lbs. 3 oz. That's without radio gear or tank. I hope it comes in under 6 lbs. I'm going to run a Sito .72 4 stroke in it, so it should get off the ground.
Adrian,
Thanks for the info on the large number and letters.
Jacs,
It was fun instant messaging with you on Sunday. I hope to do it again soon. I've attached a couple of pictures that you requested. Let me know if you need any more.
Mike
#145

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From: Berwick, NS, CANADA
looks like you did a nice job on those pants. Are they glass or ABS? Nice to see that you allowed a little room around the tires.
Adrian[sm=thumbup.gif]
Adrian[sm=thumbup.gif]
#146
Senior Member
Mike,
It was very fun but I think we are limited to the weekends. I saw just now and the clock is 06.00AM here that someone was on line but I don't know if it's you or your boys.
Like always there are difference between your kit and my plane. You have two music wires going to the fuse and I shall only have one according to plans. And I just saw that you have a big hole in your wing. Or maybe you are going to mount a wing servo there. Otherwise it's very nice pictures of your plane hope that I can get 20% of that result.
It was very fun but I think we are limited to the weekends. I saw just now and the clock is 06.00AM here that someone was on line but I don't know if it's you or your boys.
Like always there are difference between your kit and my plane. You have two music wires going to the fuse and I shall only have one according to plans. And I just saw that you have a big hole in your wing. Or maybe you are going to mount a wing servo there. Otherwise it's very nice pictures of your plane hope that I can get 20% of that result.
#148
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From: Green Bay,
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Adrian,
The wheel pants are fiberglass.
Jacs,
The cutout in the bottom of the wing is for the aileron servo. Do you think one wire for the landing will be strong enough?
Zpat,
I bought some silver elastic cord to use as flying wires. I also started work on the stab struts. Did you say you were going to make yours out of aluminum? Can you give me some more info?
Mike
The wheel pants are fiberglass.
Jacs,
The cutout in the bottom of the wing is for the aileron servo. Do you think one wire for the landing will be strong enough?
Zpat,
I bought some silver elastic cord to use as flying wires. I also started work on the stab struts. Did you say you were going to make yours out of aluminum? Can you give me some more info?
Mike
#149
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From: Lima, OH,
gbzflyer,
I'm still experimenting, but so far I've used an aluminum tube for the stabilizer strut. I flattened the ends, bent the ends to conform with the angles of the stab and the fuse, drilled mounting holes and mounted to the strut mount on the stab and to a mount I had to fabricate in the fuse. I used Kevlar thread for flying wires on the tail surfaces, using the looped part of fishhooks as anchor points. The wing wires are braided metal wires from a control surface pull pull system.
I wanted to leave the wires on for flying. To do this the wing will no longer be detachable or I will have to devise a hook where they attach to the fuse. If I had to do over I would use elastic cord for static purposes only and fly with no wires.
I'm still experimenting, but so far I've used an aluminum tube for the stabilizer strut. I flattened the ends, bent the ends to conform with the angles of the stab and the fuse, drilled mounting holes and mounted to the strut mount on the stab and to a mount I had to fabricate in the fuse. I used Kevlar thread for flying wires on the tail surfaces, using the looped part of fishhooks as anchor points. The wing wires are braided metal wires from a control surface pull pull system.
I wanted to leave the wires on for flying. To do this the wing will no longer be detachable or I will have to devise a hook where they attach to the fuse. If I had to do over I would use elastic cord for static purposes only and fly with no wires.
#150
Senior Member
Mike,
I don't know if one 4 mm music wire could handle the forces when you flex the gear in to fuse and out to wing. One thing is that I can't flex it with out an hammer and a big vise. There are going to be an music wire attached between wheel and fuse so I don't think that it should be any problem. I'm not going to land sideways anyway.
I don't know if one 4 mm music wire could handle the forces when you flex the gear in to fuse and out to wing. One thing is that I can't flex it with out an hammer and a big vise. There are going to be an music wire attached between wheel and fuse so I don't think that it should be any problem. I'm not going to land sideways anyway.


