Plenty of storage areas.

Room for 3 transmitters, the bottom tray locks in so you can carry the bottom when seperated. Plenty of room for fuel, battery and extras.

Johnny -

Cool box! Like the idea of a transmitter hangar on the outside!

Cheers!

Jim

Instead of taking chances with fuel containers, how about using three DuBro 50oz tanks? They're 3-1/2" x 8-3/8" x 4-3/8", and 3 of them would be 1.17 gallons... still enough room to refill and drain the tank that's in the plane after the last flight of the day.
Two drawbacks...
It would have to be filled using the onboard pump, and at $12 each, it's not a cheap way to go... but look at the advantages:

We KNOW it's good for model fuels.

No risk of spillage even if the field box gets dumped.

Flexibility:
1 - Position any way you'd like so long as the clunk or pickup tube hits the low point
2 - Need more capacity? Add another. Only fly 1/2-A to .25 models? Only run one. Simply arrange them as you would a header tank setup... tank #1 vent to outside, clunk feeds tank #2 vent. Tank #2 clunk feeds tank #3 vent. Tank #3 clunk goes to the pump.

Personally, I'm either going to go this way, or go back to the original method. I need to check and see how well cans will fit now that Powermaster has stopped using jugs (some rumor of someone's very old, UV-exposed jug broke open in the back of their car).

Rich -

Good idea to use multiple model tanks.. No compatibility "issues", and can give a bit more flexibility in locating the tanks... [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

If I read your post correctly, the tanks are stacked one above the other and plumbed so each tank feeds the one below, with the vent on the top tank only....

Refill thru the vent using the field box pump... Shouldn't be an issue, but will require plumbing to do so (Maybe a T in the pump inlet line with a fuel dot at the end that is removed and placed in the gallon jug to refuel the fuel cells in the field box... Nice and clean!

Cheers!

Jim

The tanks can actually be oriented in any manner, so long as the clunk is on the bottom and the vent is at the top. They could be set in the box with the caps pointed up just like a fuel jug... run the clunk line a little longer than normal, and cut the vent short so it barely penetrates the cap... or run it all the way into the bubble and you'll just lose the top 1/2" or so of the tank's capacity.

To refill, it's just like when filling your plane (with a header tank)... you fill through the carb line.
Take another look at your drawing (which is otherwise correct)... if you fill through the top vent, then the fuel will immediately be pushed into the clunk, which will feed the next tank's vent, be pushed out the clunk, and so forth until it comes out the final clunk line.

Instead, you simply reverse the pump and refill the tanks in exactly the same manner as if you were draining your planes tank at the end of the day. No plumbing changes needed.

I just finished my Field Box. Instead of being the Huge Box from Hell, I opted for just the opposite, small and stealth-like. From the outside, there are no modifications to it, it looks exactly like a normal small toolbox. I'll post pics tonight.

Finally finished my Stanley/Billy Hell inspired flight box by adding the cradle to the top box... Adjustable up and down in 2 inch increments - What would we do without PVC and pop rivets!

Just need to attach the fuel line and tank vent and it's done!! Now if the rain will stop, maybe I can get outside to try it out!!

Cheers!

Jim

Jim,
That is a slick setup you have there. I have a question for you though, what did you make the saddles out of for your cradle? I am working on the same kind of setup also, but I have been at a loss for ideas on the saddle until now.
Johnny

Hey Johnny! I'll be looking forward to seeing that rig in action, neat set up.

Johnny -

Thanks for the kind words....

Yokes
I used about 10 inches of 1/2 inch PVC tubing, two 90 degree elbows and one "T" for each cradle. Yoke was assembled with PVC cement, but the upright tube is press fit, in case I want to do something different...

Upright Tubes
Used 12 inches of dark grey 1/2 inch ID x 12" long Schedule 40 PVC sprinkler tubing for each upright (so I didn't have to paint it ).

Support Tubes
Used 1" OD x 9" PVC for the support tubes on the box that hold the uprights. Match drilled the upright tube and support tube to allow the cradle to be moved up in 2 inch increments, held in place with a 1/4 inch diameter spring clip.

Made the support tube attaching cradles out of 3/8 thick plywood, attached thru the box side with #6 flat head machine screws and nylon locking nuts on the inside of the box (holes on the side of the support tube are for access with a screwdriver).

Fuselage Supports
The padded fuselage supports are attached to yokes with 1/4 inch bolts and nylon locking nuts. Would use #8 or 10 phillips heads or pop rivets if I were gonna do it again - easier to tighten in the limited space than hex head bolts - just happened to have some 1/4 inch hardware laying around...

For the padded fuselage supports, I cut 1/4 inch hardboard into 2 x 6 inch pieces and cut 1/2 x 3/4 x 1/16 aluminum angle into 1 inch lengths (pop riveted in place), and attached two layers of 1/8 inch x 2" wide black neoprene self adhesive pipe insulation tape for the cushions -

Materials cost was about $11 - biggest single item was the neoprene tape - $6... If you have some foam around, could do the whole thing for about $5.00.

Exploded pics below -

#1 is a yoke assembly - 2 required
#2 is a fuselage support pad - 4 required
#3 is an upright tube - 2 required
#4 is a support tube assembly and attaching cradles - 2 assemblies required

HTH

Jim

Now that is one nice custom job. I studied it closely and it looks to me like you really planned it out well. I love pvc. I put it up there with great inventions like the cordless/keyless drill with built in torque settings and bubble level. Where would we be without them... I shudder to think...

Thanks, Aaron!

Got the idea from a styrofoam Robart cradle - the angled fuselage support brackets provide a very stable, easy to use work surface. They allow me to rotate the fuselage to work on the model at different angles, which drove the need to lift the yokes to clear the landing gear.

PVC, CA, pop rivets, duct tape, screwdriver, crescent wrench and pliers... What else do you need?! OK - maybe a hammer now and then (or is that what they make crescent wrenches for?).

Any update on the fuel cell/RTV test?

Cheers!

Jim

Jim,
Thanks for the info. Now I just have to make up my mind if I want to put a cradle on mine or not. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your creation.

Jeff,
If I would have been in town yesterday you would have gotten to see it.

Johnny

You betcha!

Cheers!

Jim

Test day nine:

Observation:
The fuel itself is still clear; however, I see a lot of small particles floating around which I believe is the RTV breaking down. I say this because the line of RTV I put at the bottom appears to be a little smaller. The "RTV on steroids" smell is still there and most definately offending my ofactory senses.

Conclusion:
I'm still reluctant to draw any at this time due to the "unknown variable". We'll let it ride a while longer.

Side note:
My girlfriend now believes I have a screw loose, but she can live with it after all those beautiful roses I bought for her. All part of my master plan: Blind them with fresh flora and fauna so they can't see your shortcomings.

Stay tuned to this same Bat-channel for possible future developments...

Good move with the roses! - Add something shiny and she may just forget about your fuel tank experiment altogether...

Would like to hear from a chemist on the thread if the fuel and RTV may have incompatible components... Your observations of the strong RTV (presumably vinegar/acetic acid) odor tells me something's goin' on...

Cheers!!

Jim

Jimmbbo,

Might be a good idea to post this "fuel" question up in the "Fuel Talk" section, if you are looking for a chemist, you will find one there.......

Good idea [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]-

Done!! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_15.../anchor/tm.htm

Jim

Okay. Got my Cermark panel and Master-Cart and I'm ready to start.
For you guys who have had them for a while, where do you think is a better place for the power panel... on the front above the small wheel in the middle, or on the back?
I've been debating this for a week, thinking about ease of access, protection, and the position of the cord (fuel line) holders on the back.

BTW: The boxes available at Target carry the Black & Decker name and are black with orange trim.
The boxes available at Lowes carry the Keter name and are grey with black trim.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...8-84396-111758

Thinking back now to some of my older projects... I have used (clear) RTV to seal where the fuel lines come through the firewall, including a few ARFs that have that huge hole for the fuel tank neck that ends up not being used when a larger tank is used.

After years of use, the RTV ends up clouded and... I'm not sure how to describe it, but it is definitely some kind of break down.
You know how "fresh" RTV is very flexible and stretchy... you can maybe cut it with a fingernail by pinching, but when older, it can be broken apart with the fingertips like very strong Jell-O.

If not disturbed, it still works fine for sealing the firewall, but I don't think it's something I'd want to use to seal a wet part of the fuel system.

Don't know why it took me so long to remember that.

I put my panel on the side of the box. The reason being that when I have my box stored my charger connections are out of the way and not likely to get broken, also when I get around to putting the plane cradles on everything will be on the same end as the engine. Well, at least I have a reason why I put it there now.

To protect the fuel pump and mini power panel from trunk gremlins and size 12s, I cut down an electronics project box to act as a guard around them... see post # 384..

Cheers!

Jim

Smart. [sm=thumbup.gif]
As much as I love the design of the Cermark panel (still not sure if it's worth $70), a couple of things bug me.
The exposed and vulnerable glo charger.
The design of the banana jacks leaves exposed contacts that I can just see shorting against the side of my truck.
The fuel pump switch getting bumped "on".

These wouldn't be major issues on "conventional" flight boxes where the panel is angled upwards or contained inside of a larger box.

Had the same concerns about the Hobbico mini panel... Am considering adding a hinged clear panel over the whole thing, but that may end up being overkill...

I'm sure you have thought of this, but if the pump is below the fuel level, priming will not be necessary...

Cheers!

Jim