Tom can you take a pic of your setup with the DA50. How many servos did you use on the rudder. Did you use two 5945s or one 5735(i think) the one that weighs like 5 oz. If so, did you mount them in the back of the plane or inside the fuse. And another question>is there room for a smoke system or no?

Thanks in advance
dan

I am using one of the new JR 8611 servos for rudder, as much power as the 5735 and less weight. It is mounted inside using pull-pull.

There is a lot of room between the motor box rails, a smoke system shoud fit easily.

Tom Fawcett

OK, I uploaded some pictures. Twice. I have no idea where they went, maybe the RCU people can find them.

TF

This is my last try, it either works or not.

TF

Tom,
It appears to me if I wanted to mount a Moki 2.1 on the Edge I would need to add a box or some type of spacer to get the proper distance from the firewall to the front of the cowl. Would you agree? Keeping all the servo's in the front and using Pull-Pull would also seem to be the way to rig given the overal added weight of the motor system would probably be less. I would appreciate your comments and suggestions.
Thanks,
Jerry

Tom ,


What size wood did you use behind the stand-offs? And how much weight did the JR save over the Hitec? Does it warrant the price difference in your opinion?




Thanks,

CK

The wood was 3/4" thick, and I believe that was exactly right for the spacing. The JR 8611 is 2 Oz., the big Hitec is about 5. Since balance is an issue, less weight behind the wing tube is significant, so I'd say yes, the extra cost is justified.

TF

Did you fly this plane yet? I have one and just waiting for my DA50, would love to hear how it flys.

Happy Holidays
Brian

I've flown it many times. HOw can I explain how it flies? It flies very light, is easy to land, snaps are really nice, on low rates it's very gentle and forgiving, on high rates it's a 3d beast.

TF

RCTom,

How is the vertical? Can you aim straight up, stop and punch it and have the plane climb out? If it does how would you explain the climb out? What type of batterys are you using? Do you have anymore pics of the setup? I got a CF landing gear that I had purchased for my cap that I plan on using, getting a CF tail wheel from graphtech, and might get the CF tube from Troy built. Then just trying to decide if I should use my NiMH or go with duralites or powerflights. Just want a nice light setup.

Thanks
Brian

Tom, why do you have extra plywood epoxied to the top of the engine box. Do we need to add that?

Joe

Vertical is great, yes it will pull out vertically from a hover. I use 6 volt NiMH packs 1650 MAH. When you buy all that CF stuff you will have removed more weight from your pocket than you will from the plane. The upgraded stuff is very light, save your money.

You guys that stress over every gram should fly the plane first before you invest in a bunch of lightweight components. I find that I like it better with the G62 than with the DA-50 because it's more solid feeling.

TF

You dont need that. That plane was a prototype and the engine box was too small to mount the DA50 properly. I had to chop out a piece of the top to get room and I put that piece in to compensate.

The production planes do not have that problem. Just bolt the engine on and fly it.

TF

Thanks Tom,

You are right, just fly it first. Man were is that motor I had a 81inch Edge 540T with a Brison 2.4 that came in at 14pds. That was the best flying plane I ever had. It flew so light, I was tempted to try anything. Because once you screw up the plane would not loose5 feet of altitude and it was flying again. It was great.

Thanks again
Brian
Happy Holidays

I have a question about marking the bolt holes for the Da 50 engine stand offs. I have the 3/4" spacer made but how do transfer the holes from the standoffs to the spacers and then to the firewall all keeping the cowl alligned.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Merry Christmas!

n715tm, the manual tells you all about that. I used Tom's way with my mvvs58i. My engine needed 1.75" stand offs, the board/plate to temporarely fasten the engine to firwall with is about 1/2" thick. I made another set of stand offs, only about 1" thick, and with the board it came close to the 1.75". I can use the shorter stand offs with my DA50R later.
DKjens

This is the one thing I like least about the DA 50. Since there are no holes to line up on how do you figure out where to drill?

What I did last time, after I had the engine location set and the engine sitting on the firewall, I drew very carefully around the standoffs with a sharp pencil so I had 4 large circles drawn. Then I removed the engine and set down one of the large washers that come in the goodie bag and use that to mark the center of each circle.

Another way is to make a template out of plexiglass. This way you can look through it from the back and mark the hole locations.

Good luck.

TF

TF, I did the same thing as you except instead of drawing the marks around the stand offs with a pencil I squirted WD40 around the base of the standoffs and then dusted baby powder on the plywood. When the motor is removed a perfect circle can be seen for each standoff location. Then your washer idea for drilling the centers can be used.

I seem to be the king of stupid questions about this plane.

My problem now is mounting the Dave Brown spinner that I boughht with the plane (on a DA 50).

There is no bolt to attach the spinner cone. The drive shaft is tapped for a M5 bolt, so I need about a 60mm M5 bolt.

However, the opening at the tip of the spinner is too small for a M5 bolt, so do I drill it out? Am I missing an adaptor?

I would appreciate any help.

Leonard DeCarlo
Tyler, TX

My answer was stupid, please disregard.
Happy New Year!

M5 is interchangeable with 10-32. There are two ways to solve the problem.

The slick way is to use a 10-32 socket head (allen) bolt, they are available at any hardware store. That will fit in the spinner with no changes.

The cheap way is to just use a 10-32 phillips or slotted head. IF you have a belt sander or gridnig wheel hold the side of the head against the abrasive and twirl it in your fingers, the OD will reduce evenly. Take it down until it fits in the hole in the nose.

If you don't have a wheel or belt sander use plan A.

TF

I'll try using a 10-32 socket head bolt (which I already have in my shop). If not, I will try cutting down a bolt with a larger head - I am happier modifying a 25 cent bolt than a 50 dollar spinner.

Thanks for the replies

Leonard

The above technique works great! I went to the hardware store and bought 4 10-32 screws for about a 1.50. Instead of using your fingers (That bolt gets hot) Put it in your drill and turn it on your grinder that way. The whole process took about 5 minutes.

Thanks for the tip Tom

Tobin

Guys/Gals:

Another way of setting up the holes for the DA 50 is after you've drawn the circles on the firewall, just draw a X through them (like cross hairs). The center of the X is where you drill. Very easy.

Also there's a template that someone on RCU put up for download in the GP Patty Extra thread. If you download the file, simply print it out (by his instructions) and you have a paper template for the holes for the DA50. Or you can make your own. Get some graph paper and set the engine down on the paper. Since the graph paper has lines vertically & horizontally, it makes it very easy to line up, draw circles and then draw the X through the circles. When done cut it out. Now you have a paper template.

HOT TIP, thanks!
Happy New Year!