50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
#726

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From: Goodyear, AZ
ORIGINAL: rctom
One switch with one output into the receiver is marginal for a 50cc plane and definitely not enough for a 100cc type plane. I use two connectors not only for the amperage but also in case one should fail or come unplugged.
Any one thing that can bring down the plane if it fails should be examined very carefully.
TF
One switch with one output into the receiver is marginal for a 50cc plane and definitely not enough for a 100cc type plane. I use two connectors not only for the amperage but also in case one should fail or come unplugged.
Any one thing that can bring down the plane if it fails should be examined very carefully.
TF
If I read you right, you are using two switches. What do you use for a harness coming out of the battery back pack to feed two switches?
Chuck
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From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
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I have battery packs made with two output cables. I sell these plus switches with Deans connecors, or you can use a Smart Fly super switch that has one input and two outputs.
TF
TF
#728

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From: Goodyear, AZ
ORIGINAL: rctom
I have battery packs made with two output cables. I sell these plus switches with Deans connecors, or you can use a Smart Fly super switch that has one input and two outputs.
TF
I have battery packs made with two output cables. I sell these plus switches with Deans connecors, or you can use a Smart Fly super switch that has one input and two outputs.
TF
I'm not very familiar with the Smart Fly super switch, does it have multiple connects inside it? If it doesn't, than you have the same situation as using a standard MPI switch.
BTW, I balanced my Sukhoi tonight and had to move the receiver battery in front of the landing gear to get it to balance at the center of the wing tube. The plane has a DL50 with the battery and ignition mounted to the sides of the engine box. I'm using the pull-pull for the rudder. I would have never thought it would be tail heavy with the big fiberglas engine cowl. I was planning to go to one A123 battery after I have the bugs out of the plane, but it looks like it might take some dead weight up front to balance it with just one battery. Kind of defeats the purpose on this plane. Is this plane typically tail heavy? Going to the field in the morning to tune the engine and shake down the plane, then fly it Tuesday if nothing big comes out of tomorrow.
Chuck
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From: RIDGENew York
Chuck I would not get to hung up on battery location right know. If I were you I would just leave it at the recommended CG for know and then wait until you get a chance to fly the plane and see if you like it there. This plane has a really large CG range to play with without getting yourself into trouble. Even with a really aft CG the plane still flys very well but just has the tendency to ballon a little on landings. With a really nose heavy setting she tracks a little better and lands a little faster but with no balloning at all.
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From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
Hi all
Iam just about to start building my plane (YEE HAAAAR), Is there any tip to consider before starting, you know those things like " I wish I had done that right at the beginning" Things
Lee
Iam just about to start building my plane (YEE HAAAAR), Is there any tip to consider before starting, you know those things like " I wish I had done that right at the beginning" Things
Lee
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From: MaitlandNSW, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: LeeHunt
Hi all
Iam just about to start building my plane (YEE HAAAAR), Is there any tip to consider before starting, you know those things like " I wish I had done that right at the beginning" Things
Lee
Hi all
Iam just about to start building my plane (YEE HAAAAR), Is there any tip to consider before starting, you know those things like " I wish I had done that right at the beginning" Things
Lee
This is some info that I got from Pat Roy in post [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6360497]Post #: 426[/link]
ORIGINAL: Pat Roy
Understand that. Here's a tip or two that might be useful then. Pick up a new set of axles. The ones that come from the manufacturer are a little soft and I still haven't figured out what size the hex heads are on them. Some of the 4-40 hex screws that come from the original manufacturer have pretty rounded hex inserts and won't permit tightening. No big since 4-40 screws are prolly laying in the bottom of your flight box. Better still, toss the 4-40 hatch screws and blind nuts and tap the hatch tabs for a 10-32 screw, or metric equivalent. Use an 8 or 10-32 or metric hex head nylon screw in place of the 4-40 metal screws. They never loosen up.
1-1/4" servo arms is correct, but you'll prolly end up using the hole at the 1-1/8" mark. As for the turnbuckle pushrods I couldn't say since I made my own with 4-40 all thread inside carbon rods. Maybe 1/2 gram heavier overall but many $$ cheaper. In the long run they are just as strong and adjusting one end is easy.
Take some thin ca glue and squirt a line all the way around the thin balsa wing pockets to stiffen them up. It's real easy to put you finger through one otherwise. Other than the above, assemble it the way it comes out of the box. It's a great flying plane and I believe you'll love it for IMAC.
Understand that. Here's a tip or two that might be useful then. Pick up a new set of axles. The ones that come from the manufacturer are a little soft and I still haven't figured out what size the hex heads are on them. Some of the 4-40 hex screws that come from the original manufacturer have pretty rounded hex inserts and won't permit tightening. No big since 4-40 screws are prolly laying in the bottom of your flight box. Better still, toss the 4-40 hatch screws and blind nuts and tap the hatch tabs for a 10-32 screw, or metric equivalent. Use an 8 or 10-32 or metric hex head nylon screw in place of the 4-40 metal screws. They never loosen up.
1-1/4" servo arms is correct, but you'll prolly end up using the hole at the 1-1/8" mark. As for the turnbuckle pushrods I couldn't say since I made my own with 4-40 all thread inside carbon rods. Maybe 1/2 gram heavier overall but many $$ cheaper. In the long run they are just as strong and adjusting one end is easy.
Take some thin ca glue and squirt a line all the way around the thin balsa wing pockets to stiffen them up. It's real easy to put you finger through one otherwise. Other than the above, assemble it the way it comes out of the box. It's a great flying plane and I believe you'll love it for IMAC.
Cheers
Pupmeister
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From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
Again many thanks Pup.
Oh boy I just love my plane, got mine out and dumby put together to make sure all seemed to fit, which it did.
wasted a couple of tubes of thin CA on all the joins and soft looking balsa. The manual talks of "gorilla" glue for the Robart style hinges.
Any suggestions on what to use in Australia. I will epoxy the fire wall, and will opt for the plastic canopy screws.
Do you seal up the hinge lines and if you do what material do you use , I have only done this with sticky tape before on the small models, but consider this no good on a big one.
Boy what is this? another 100 questions, slow down son!
Regards Lee
Oh boy I just love my plane, got mine out and dumby put together to make sure all seemed to fit, which it did.
wasted a couple of tubes of thin CA on all the joins and soft looking balsa. The manual talks of "gorilla" glue for the Robart style hinges.
Any suggestions on what to use in Australia. I will epoxy the fire wall, and will opt for the plastic canopy screws.
Do you seal up the hinge lines and if you do what material do you use , I have only done this with sticky tape before on the small models, but consider this no good on a big one.
Boy what is this? another 100 questions, slow down son!
Regards Lee
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From: MaitlandNSW, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: LeeHunt
***********
***** "gorilla" glue *****
*****
***********
***** "gorilla" glue *****
*****
Cheers
Pupmeister
#740
Hi All,
I have fallen prey to Tom's marketing techniques once again
......I had to have the 50cc Sukhoi. I have really liked its looks for a while, and all the wonderful flight reports sealed the deal for me.
I purchased the "package" with the TOC 53 and have a question before machining my standoffs. I will be using the supplied spinner, and the plane will be mostly for sport flying. That being said, what is the consensus on standoff length? I have seen anywhere from 1" to 1 5/8", and just thought I would get some input from the guys who have been flying their planes with a similar combination. I felt like a 5/8" spread would have a significant affect on the balance and I would appreciate any input.
Thanks in advance!
Jeff
I have fallen prey to Tom's marketing techniques once again

......I had to have the 50cc Sukhoi. I have really liked its looks for a while, and all the wonderful flight reports sealed the deal for me. I purchased the "package" with the TOC 53 and have a question before machining my standoffs. I will be using the supplied spinner, and the plane will be mostly for sport flying. That being said, what is the consensus on standoff length? I have seen anywhere from 1" to 1 5/8", and just thought I would get some input from the guys who have been flying their planes with a similar combination. I felt like a 5/8" spread would have a significant affect on the balance and I would appreciate any input.
Thanks in advance!
Jeff
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From: MaitlandNSW, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: LeeHunt
Thanks Pupmeister
Would YOU use this for the robart style hinges????
Lee
Thanks Pupmeister
Would YOU use this for the robart style hinges????
Lee
Cheers
Pupmeister
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From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
Yes, well got some thanks for the tip mate. I'LL just have to buy another 100 planes to use it then?? (not)
Lee
Lee
#743
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From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
ORIGINAL: blownalcohol
Hi All,
I have fallen prey to Tom's marketing techniques once again
......I had to have the 50cc Sukhoi. I have really liked its looks for a while, and all the wonderful flight reports sealed the deal for me.
I purchased the "package" with the TOC 53 and have a question before machining my standoffs. I will be using the supplied spinner, and the plane will be mostly for sport flying. That being said, what is the consensus on standoff length? I have seen anywhere from 1" to 1 5/8", and just thought I would get some input from the guys who have been flying their planes with a similar combination. I felt like a 5/8" spread would have a significant affect on the balance and I would appreciate any input.
Thanks in advance!
Jeff
Hi All,
I have fallen prey to Tom's marketing techniques once again

......I had to have the 50cc Sukhoi. I have really liked its looks for a while, and all the wonderful flight reports sealed the deal for me. I purchased the "package" with the TOC 53 and have a question before machining my standoffs. I will be using the supplied spinner, and the plane will be mostly for sport flying. That being said, what is the consensus on standoff length? I have seen anywhere from 1" to 1 5/8", and just thought I would get some input from the guys who have been flying their planes with a similar combination. I felt like a 5/8" spread would have a significant affect on the balance and I would appreciate any input.
Thanks in advance!
Jeff
TF
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From: katherineNT, AUSTRALIA
Hi All, this is lee using the son's log on.
Tom, ah gasp my cowling will only fit 4 of the 5 screws, this is anoying but will have to put up with it, just tell em to fix it???. Its better to leave it than try to repair it,it misses by a complete hole width.
does any one have a picture of the mounting of your throttle and choke servo for ideas????
Have just mounted the motor and so far so good, used the mounting template supplied and it worked spot on (nice)
Hey I really like these big ones!!!!
Have just reread the whole thread and there are some really good ideas thanks to all so far for input it certainly helps people like me
Lee
Tom, ah gasp my cowling will only fit 4 of the 5 screws, this is anoying but will have to put up with it, just tell em to fix it???. Its better to leave it than try to repair it,it misses by a complete hole width.
does any one have a picture of the mounting of your throttle and choke servo for ideas????
Have just mounted the motor and so far so good, used the mounting template supplied and it worked spot on (nice)
Hey I really like these big ones!!!!
Have just reread the whole thread and there are some really good ideas thanks to all so far for input it certainly helps people like me
Lee
#745
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From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
That cowl screw problem seems to be there on some and not on others, I don't understand it at all.
I mount the throtle and choke servos in the pocket in the side of the fuse that's formed above where the wings mount. There are other pockets that will accept a servo also.
TF
I mount the throtle and choke servos in the pocket in the side of the fuse that's formed above where the wings mount. There are other pockets that will accept a servo also.
TF
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From: Katherine, AUSTRALIA
Hey, Jim thanks,cool
Its silly really,I have been flying for 2 years now and probably built about 20-25 planes no worries!!
Get one big one and back to being scared about everything.????
Lee
Its silly really,I have been flying for 2 years now and probably built about 20-25 planes no worries!!
Get one big one and back to being scared about everything.????
Lee
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From: west babylon, NY
Hey Guys, my sukhette's getting close to completion, just a few minor touches left. One thing I'm not too familiar with is electronic ignition.I'm using the TOC 53. Should the EI box be isolated from vibration, with I guess some foam under it? Also can I run the ingition battery through a heavy duty futaba on/off switch to the EI box in order to shut power off to it and is it safe to charge the battery using the charge lead from the switch (1400mah NiMH 4.8v)? Could this set up cause damage to the EI box? Thanks for your help.
#749
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From: Tulsa, OK
Yes you should use foam to isolate the ignition module... If you don't vibration can definately damage it. I will leave the switch stuff to those that know more.
edited to remove redundancy.... What the heck was I thinking?
edited to remove redundancy.... What the heck was I thinking?



Jim