I flew 6 tanks of fuel through the new Sukhoi today. It's a really nice flying plane. Most flights were for trimming and getting used to the plane. The best way for me to describe the Sukhoi is to compare it to the other WH 28% planes. First off, the plane has no bad habits. There were no unexpected snap outs at tight low rate loops. The plane tracks like it's on rails. Much better than the Edge. The rudder has mondo power. The plane looks great in the air. Knife edge needs just a tiny bit of aileron added to hold the plane vertical. It's really neutral in knife compared to the Edge and Extra. That can easily be mixed if desired. The huge opening in the front limits top speed and really slows the plane on downlines. Constant speed is much easier to maintain than the Edge and Extra. Upright and inverted flatspins are slow and simple as can be. Harriers and elevators are super stable and as done as well if not better than the new Extra.

Landing is a bit different than the other planes. This may change with a balance change. It's not harder, it's just different. I'm thinking it may be the big cowl opening. The plane doesn't seem to float down the runway like the other 28%s. Many will like this. As speed bleeds off on approach, the plane settles faster. Instead of floating in to land, I started to carry a couple clicks of throttle on approach pulling to a slow idle of about 1650rpm right before touch-down. After the change, I greased every landing.

I didn't wring the plane out or haven't done 3-d down low yet. But, I can see the plane will do everthing as well if not better than the new version 28%s.

The new 3MM/TOC started easily, and pulled great all day. It's still a bit rich but it turns the MSC 22x8 6870 rpm. I think it'll turn 7000 rpm after the final adjust.

These are just the first impressions of the plane. As I get more time on the plane, sticks, and engine things will get better yet. I'll start to work the set-up harder this week. I'll keep you posted on my findings.

Thanks for that report...I think....

What are the current deflections and balance point your using?

The Prototype flys almost identical from the flight reports I have read on the Sukhoi. Landings are as you mentioned extremely easy with the slightest touch of throttle, the big cowl slows her down nicely.
I have the Yak almost finished with a canister, I previously had a pitts wraparound but wanted to try the tunnel out. Now if the weather will cooperate I will get a chance to fly it... Should be fun with the additional power (I have a MVVS 45 mounted on the nose, which flew it very well previously)..

On low rates I have 12.5 degrees of deflection up and down on the elevators. Even on low rates, it does extemely tight loops/rolls. The elevators on high rates have 47 degrees up, and 50 degrees down. The gap between the stabs and elevators is only a few thousandths of an inch, and 60 degrees of deflection is obtainable. I have full rudder deflection on low and high rate. Ailerons are set with 20 degrees on low rates and 35 degrees on high.

As I fly the plane more, I may change the set-up. For now, this is what I'll use.

Oh, the first few flights were flown with the balance right on the center of the wing tube. The plane was very stable there. I ended up moving the flight battery pack towards the back 12". I haven't rechecked the balance point, but it doesn't seem too tail-heavy.

Sound great marzo, I'm also working on one and hope to have it up pretty soon. Hearing good field reports gets the blood pumping. I even brought my stabs to work last night to glue in the robarts. And your right, Mucho deflection even with a tight gap in the surface. I have a BME 50 on mine with a menz 22x8 prop. That big cowl sure does dwarf the size of that prop.

In shipping 3 parts of the cowl ring had came apart, I had to realighn and reglue the sections back in. I used gorilla glue which expanded and filled in any cracks. Know that cowl ring is as strong as an ox. I love the fact that gorilla glue is so strong yet so light and easy to manage. The newer sukhois with the one piece rings should really be a plus.
I'm hoping for a true 3D/ IMAC neutral flying plane. The numbers say yes so we will see.

Marzo91,

Thank you very much for the flight reports. (Drooling) Come on, container!!

SAL98,

I'll write a note to your employer and ask if they'll let you bring the whole plane to work

Any word on the where abouts of the container and planes. It has to be getting close.
I cant wait. The new club I joined is a little tight for my 35%, I am hoping that this one will hit the spot.

It left the factory on the 5th, but it didn't leave port until the 10th. It takes 15 to 20 days so it should be in port in LA, but I have not heard anything yet.

TF

Mine arrived on friday 1 June 07. Nothing to do but wait for the hardware package to arrive. The plane arrived in perfect shape, don't even have one wrinkle in the covering. I hope the package shows up this coming week, Tom has sent it.

I enjoyed seeing Wil Curtis display the full size Suhkoi GSIID at Biggin Hill today. Brilliant - torque rolls, hovering, cartwheel. harrier and more. It certainly made me want a Bunny version all the more. BTW it no longer carries the HONDA graphics. If I get it right there should be 2 photos.
For those of you who don't know, Biggin Hill was probably the most famous of all the RAF airfields during the Battle of Britain and to watch a Spitfire being flown there was quite emotional.

AND where Spike Milligan spent some of his early days in the military!!!

Where's the best place to put the rudder servo? I'll be installing the 3M 53cc motor. In front in the provided hole, or in the back of the fuselage?

Use the pull-pull in the provided hole. My Sukhoi balanced without a spinner. The ignition battery is on the front of the engine box.

I guess my plane is the old (new) type. My cowling attaches with 5 bolts from the back thru the fuselage, real nice, no screws showing on the outside of the cowling. Got the engine mounted, cowl cutouts done and the ignition module is installed. Will start gluing the hinges in next. Anybody know what size bolts fit the landing gear?

Yes, you got the new/production plane. The other design looked real good but in use it was not so good and it was a nightmare to manufacture.

Keep the rudder servo as pull-pull with the TOC-53, it will be balanced just about perfect.

TF

Hey guys...i've been trying to keep up with this thread , and am going to try and get enough money to put together a 50cc bird later this summer as well. I'll fly my 35% for the rest of the summer , but want to have a 50cc bird as well. Tom.....looks like you did a great job on this one as well.......

One question......are the hinge's the same on this bird ( phelonic.......i dunno how to spell it , or even if that's correct??) as the 35%? I have many of the guys from our club swing by the house and take a look at the 35% sukoi that's gonna make em' all weep when i get this sucker in the air. they all comment on that hinge system you have on the 35%. I haven't been flying to long , but i'll tell you , that was the best idea i have seen on an RC plane to date........GOD i gotta get that thing going!!


Also........how do you think a brillelli 60 might do in this plane? I have a line on getting one with very low use and in awesome condition.



Jeff

The 50cc planes use the conventional pin hinges, I felt the pocket hinges would add too much weight and cost.

I think the Brillelli 60 will do nicely.

TF

I'm in the process of hooking up the control surfaces, where does the long clevis from the hardware kit go? Rudder or elevator? If it goes on the rudder should I use a longer bolt then the supplied 3" one? Thanks in advance.

The longer ones should have been in the package with the pull pull gear for the rudder. I would use a longer bolt than the supplied one, possibly 3 1/2 inches. If your rudder servo arm measures 3 inches from hole center to the adjacent hole center, then you want the same measurement at the tail. You also will have to drill new holes in those longer arms as the supplied holes are past the pivot point. This would be the correct setup for a straight rectangular pull pull setup.

I just put one together with a 3" servo arm and 3" rudder arm as upllied in the kit. The horns were shortened to be on the hinge line.

I have rudder throw from side to side that will touch the elevator on both sides, I had to back off from full travel to get a little clearance.

TF

When using the supplied 3" rod the actual distance between the two bolts in each arm is only 2 5/8 inches. Tom you did'nt have any play in the pull pull wires at full deflection?

If you use a straight rudder tiller at the servo and have the clevis pins aligned with the rudder hinge lines you will not usually have any significant play in the cables. The play develops when one end or the other of the cables ends up offset from 90 pull angles. Using the supplied hardware works out perfectly when you pay attention to alignment. If the clevis pins are ahead or behind the rudder hinge line you will develop cable play. A little will hurt nothing. You can move the clevises on the rudder servo tiller in a little to match the threaded rod in the rudder. You most certainly do not need a full 3" tiller to obtain well more rudder than you will ever be able to effectively use.

Tom,
Have the Sukhoi's landed at your place yet?

Website said probably shipping starting tomorrow.

Yes, probably tomorrow. They are here in the area, we just have to get them off the train and onto a truck.

TF