Sebart Wind 110
#601
My Feedback: (55)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
You guys are making this way more difficult than it has to be. The
airplane stock, like Larry's and mine, flies superbly. There is really
no need for all these changes. If I were to put a second one together
the only thing I would do differently would be to reinforce the landing
gear plate before flying.
tommy s
airplane stock, like Larry's and mine, flies superbly. There is really
no need for all these changes. If I were to put a second one together
the only thing I would do differently would be to reinforce the landing
gear plate before flying.
tommy s
#604
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Tommy ... try the RC car scene ... some cars can be built in whole using after market parts! Bling-bling includes titanium parts such as screws even ... all that and you do have a minimum weight for races.
#605
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
ORIGINAL: tIANci
Joe ... how about starting work on some balsa and make your own fillets for the gear? How much lighter are the CF ones?
Joe ... how about starting work on some balsa and make your own fillets for the gear? How much lighter are the CF ones?
I could just glue the plane together and go with the 8S Hacker setup and have nothing to think about or do over the winter months [&:]
#606
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Joe ... we got no winter here ... hence my plane was all ready in 2-3 night! Hahahaaa ... I remember about 5 years ago, they were showing how much weight you cna save in total when you start to do your best to shave weight on each item. The total sum if quite a bit. On 50cc planes it was as much as 2-3 lbs and on 100cc planes up to 5-6 lbs. Standard kit planes were heavy back then I guess.
#607
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
ORIGINAL: Velco
More good news!
Steve Neu is ready to help guys, so if someone can confirm that a 19'' prop will fit without any problem I can ask him for the desired geared setup with 19x10:
What huison and tIANci have confirmed is that on 10S and 4,3kg we need roughly 2,5kW (65A), right? Can someone confirm please if 2kW (70A) is enough for 8S and 4kg?
Velco
More good news!
Steve Neu is ready to help guys, so if someone can confirm that a 19'' prop will fit without any problem I can ask him for the desired geared setup with 19x10:
What huison and tIANci have confirmed is that on 10S and 4,3kg we need roughly 2,5kW (65A), right? Can someone confirm please if 2kW (70A) is enough for 8S and 4kg?
Velco
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
ORIGINAL: 1bwana1
New Years arrived, and it was a perfect day for flying today, so the field was a little crowded. The Wind 110 I have been flying was being flown by it's owner (thank God!), and during a point roll had a mid-air with a 48" Extreme Flight Extra 300 EXP. The Wind's wing cleanly cut the tail off the Extra, and the prop ran what was left of it through the blender. The Extra was totaled, just small pieces floating down. A spectacular mid-air. The Wind 110 suffered sever damage to it's wing, but through excellent piloting, was brought in without further damage. All the Wind needs is a new wing.
I thought you guys might enjoy some pictures of the damage. Notice that the aileron was left dangling with only the control linkage holding it on. Also notice how much of the wing is completely missing. Very difficult to control, It was a great save!
New Years arrived, and it was a perfect day for flying today, so the field was a little crowded. The Wind 110 I have been flying was being flown by it's owner (thank God!), and during a point roll had a mid-air with a 48" Extreme Flight Extra 300 EXP. The Wind's wing cleanly cut the tail off the Extra, and the prop ran what was left of it through the blender. The Extra was totaled, just small pieces floating down. A spectacular mid-air. The Wind 110 suffered sever damage to it's wing, but through excellent piloting, was brought in without further damage. All the Wind needs is a new wing.
I thought you guys might enjoy some pictures of the damage. Notice that the aileron was left dangling with only the control linkage holding it on. Also notice how much of the wing is completely missing. Very difficult to control, It was a great save!
#614
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
ORIGINAL: 1bwana1
Unfortunately,Mark (the Wind's owner) isnot having any luck findinga replacement wing. The U.S. distributorship is going through some changes, and currently is of no help. This also seems to be the case in the U.K. where the model was originally purchased. Does anyone out there have a source for replacement wings? Help would be greatly appreciated!
ORIGINAL: 1bwana1
New Years arrived, and it was a perfect day for flying today, so the field was a little crowded. The Wind 110 I have been flying was being flown by it's owner (thank God!), and during a point roll had a mid-air with a 48" Extreme Flight Extra 300 EXP. The Wind's wing cleanly cut the tail off the Extra, and the prop ran what was left of it through the blender. The Extra was totaled, just small pieces floating down. A spectacular mid-air. The Wind 110 suffered sever damage to it's wing, but through excellent piloting, was brought in without further damage. All the Wind needs is a new wing.
I thought you guys might enjoy some pictures of the damage. Notice that the aileron was left dangling with only the control linkage holding it on. Also notice how much of the wing is completely missing. Very difficult to control, It was a great save!
New Years arrived, and it was a perfect day for flying today, so the field was a little crowded. The Wind 110 I have been flying was being flown by it's owner (thank God!), and during a point roll had a mid-air with a 48" Extreme Flight Extra 300 EXP. The Wind's wing cleanly cut the tail off the Extra, and the prop ran what was left of it through the blender. The Extra was totaled, just small pieces floating down. A spectacular mid-air. The Wind 110 suffered sever damage to it's wing, but through excellent piloting, was brought in without further damage. All the Wind needs is a new wing.
I thought you guys might enjoy some pictures of the damage. Notice that the aileron was left dangling with only the control linkage holding it on. Also notice how much of the wing is completely missing. Very difficult to control, It was a great save!
#616
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
First shipment has arrived. These are really sharp looking planes! This is the red scheme. The canopy mounting looks very secure with hooks in the front and magnets and tabs on the sides and 2 screws into the back side tabs.
#617
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
Got the Scorpion 4035 in the mail today - very nice! Looks like they upgraded to an 8mm shaft, so the supplied bearing in the kit won't work. Actual weight is 15.95oz. I'm going to look around for other bearings or adapting the rear mount, as well as try to contact Scorpion/Innov8tive and see if the rear support is that necessary. The kit comes with one mount for a rear mount application, so I'm assuming that having one end mounted is probably OK.
Also going to get a nice graphic on the side of the plane - maybe the word "Wind" or "Wind S" or something, much bigger and more fitting than the stock sticker.
Just for a sample, I quickly drew this up for an idea:
Also going to get a nice graphic on the side of the plane - maybe the word "Wind" or "Wind S" or something, much bigger and more fitting than the stock sticker.
Just for a sample, I quickly drew this up for an idea:
#618
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
Question about mounting this motor:
There is a gold color shaft collar built into the motor 'can' at what will be the rear end, and a silver removable collar attached to what will be the prop side/front of the motor. This collar does not fit through the hole in the firewall. Probably a dumb question, but can I remove this collar or do I have to adapt the hole in the plane to fit? I was really hoping not to have to start cutting away at this beautiful plane.
There is a gold color shaft collar built into the motor 'can' at what will be the rear end, and a silver removable collar attached to what will be the prop side/front of the motor. This collar does not fit through the hole in the firewall. Probably a dumb question, but can I remove this collar or do I have to adapt the hole in the plane to fit? I was really hoping not to have to start cutting away at this beautiful plane.
#619
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
ORIGINAL: gaRCfield
Question about mounting this motor:
There is a gold color shaft collar built into the motor 'can' at what will be the rear end, and a silver removable collar attached to what will be the prop side/front of the motor. This collar does not fit through the hole in the firewall. Probably a dumb question, but can I remove this collar or do I have to adapt the hole in the plane to fit? I was really hoping not to have to start cutting away at this beautiful plane.
Question about mounting this motor:
There is a gold color shaft collar built into the motor 'can' at what will be the rear end, and a silver removable collar attached to what will be the prop side/front of the motor. This collar does not fit through the hole in the firewall. Probably a dumb question, but can I remove this collar or do I have to adapt the hole in the plane to fit? I was really hoping not to have to start cutting away at this beautiful plane.
On my new motor,(same exact one)Idid leave the collar and used Dremel to make the shaft hole a little bigger, four months has passed and so far no problem with the motor.Themotor mount seems very strong. So go for it.
#620
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
Thank you Zebel. I also heard from a trusted friend in our club to leave the collar on, so that's enough for me.
I took the aluminum mount that came with the motor and cut the ears off, and mounted it on the front of the nose ring of the plane. I will use this as a guide for cutting the nose ring, and it looks like it should work out very well.
Also I made a mistake earlier on saying that the motor shaft was too large for the bearing - it is not. I thought the recommended Hacker came with a 6mm shaft, but it must in fact be an 8mm shaft also.
Going to try some patience and not cut the plane tonight, rather do it in the morning when I'm well rested, there is more light, and noise won't be an issue.
I took the aluminum mount that came with the motor and cut the ears off, and mounted it on the front of the nose ring of the plane. I will use this as a guide for cutting the nose ring, and it looks like it should work out very well.
Also I made a mistake earlier on saying that the motor shaft was too large for the bearing - it is not. I thought the recommended Hacker came with a 6mm shaft, but it must in fact be an 8mm shaft also.
Going to try some patience and not cut the plane tonight, rather do it in the morning when I'm well rested, there is more light, and noise won't be an issue.
#621
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Dude ... you remove the collar. Its function is to ensure the shaft is secured when the prop is on the can. Do not drill the mounting. Then you will need the same collar at the back of the motor to hold the bearing in place. Look at my photo some where in this thread. The back has a plate that secures the rear shaft. It has a bearing. There will be a space of about 6mm between the bearing and the gold protrusion, that needs to be filled so the bearing stays in place. I used the same collar but its not tightened, used it as a spacer.
#622
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
Cool, I'm glad I waited!
Found this, too:
Found this, too:
Original: Matt Kirsch Electrics Moderator
Many outrunner motors come with a collar that slides over the shaft on the "fixed" end of the motor. The reason for this collar is to reinforce the snap-ring that holds the shaft into the motor when you attach the propeller to the spinning can end of the motor. If you are attaching a prop adapter to the shaft protruding from the fixed end of the motor, then you can remove the collar.
Many outrunner motors come with a collar that slides over the shaft on the "fixed" end of the motor. The reason for this collar is to reinforce the snap-ring that holds the shaft into the motor when you attach the propeller to the spinning can end of the motor. If you are attaching a prop adapter to the shaft protruding from the fixed end of the motor, then you can remove the collar.
#623
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
This is from Lucien. Sounds like the collar should stay, although I don't think this idea would work with respect to the prop adapter and spinner backplate. If I don't dream up something creative it looks like I'll be cutting in the AM.
Joe,
The silver collar is what holds the motor together. If you mount the motor
with the mounting face forward, the pull from the prop will hold the motor
together without the collar, but any time you go to idle, and the prop
starts to drag, it will push the motor back in a little bit. It will only
go a small amount before the attractive force of the magnets prevents it
from going any further, but it will go back and forth a bit. This can
hammer on the bearings a bit, and is not recommended.
What you can do is cut a spacer out of tubing that has an 8mm ID and a 9mm
OD that is just a hair longer than the thickness of your front mounting
plate, and slide that onto the shaft and then put the collar back on. Going
this way, you only need a hole that is about 9.5mm in diameter instead of a
16 or 17mm hole to fit the collar through.
How does that sound to you?
Lucien Miller
Innov8tive Designs, Inc.
1495 Poinsettia Avenue, Suite 144
Vista, CA 92081
Phone: 760-468-8838
Fax: 760-305-7749
The silver collar is what holds the motor together. If you mount the motor
with the mounting face forward, the pull from the prop will hold the motor
together without the collar, but any time you go to idle, and the prop
starts to drag, it will push the motor back in a little bit. It will only
go a small amount before the attractive force of the magnets prevents it
from going any further, but it will go back and forth a bit. This can
hammer on the bearings a bit, and is not recommended.
What you can do is cut a spacer out of tubing that has an 8mm ID and a 9mm
OD that is just a hair longer than the thickness of your front mounting
plate, and slide that onto the shaft and then put the collar back on. Going
this way, you only need a hole that is about 9.5mm in diameter instead of a
16 or 17mm hole to fit the collar through.
How does that sound to you?
Lucien Miller
Innov8tive Designs, Inc.
1495 Poinsettia Avenue, Suite 144
Vista, CA 92081
Phone: 760-468-8838
Fax: 760-305-7749
#625
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Sebart Wind 110
I made the cut. Maybe I'll post a pic later. It worked out really well - I chopped the ears off the X-mount that came with the engine and bolted it to the plane, using it as a template and guide. I used a side cutting bit in my dremel for most of the work, a grinding stone to get it really close, and the best part is that a dremel sanding drum fits right inside the hole, so it came out very round, very precise, and very clean.
I bought regular phillips "cheese head" screws to mount the engine, 12mm long was perfect, and there is just enough clearance on the prop side for the prop adapter.
I bought regular phillips "cheese head" screws to mount the engine, 12mm long was perfect, and there is just enough clearance on the prop side for the prop adapter.