ElectricGuy007

I run a Tekin R1 Pro Sensorless in my 501, the rotor is sensored but it's wired sensorless.
And they dont make the 3T 362 brushless motor anymore it's been discontinued on tower for a while.
It's not really a 3T, but more like a 9T brushed motor equivelent. 15/91 is my gearing, temps
are barley 150 F after a 7 min run.
The only sensoreless I will run is a High Quality Tekin system.
I run Novak and LRP systems in everything else I have.

mog ruith

castle sensorless aint good enuf for you?

mog ruith

anyone here uses a stabilizer bar for their db01?
how do you like it? better handling around sharp corners?

spigou

hello,
this is my durga with some hop ups...im very satisfied with my car...exept from the diffs...(they melting all the time)and i have tryied everything exept for the havy duty diffs from 3 racing.

Norseman72

I crashed my Baldre today, and broke the front lower suspension arm.
Are there any aluminium hop ups for this suspension arm instead of the standard plastic one.
This must be a weak point on the DB-01 chassis.

Lunchboxer

Some of you might find this article interesting...

"How to a Competition DB-01"

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=414

Norseman72

Thanks for sharing the url to this article. But it didn't answer my question about suspension arms.

Ttam Says Blarg

That was cool LB. There was one part that confused me though.. "the Baldre body handles better on the track."

HSVXU6

Hi Norseman72. "This must be a weak point on the DB-01 chassis" I think you might of been unlucky. I race my DB01 and after 12mths I have not broken a front arm (fingers crossed) I got "T" boned and broke a rear one and considering the impact it came out rather good. The only time that I upgrade to aluminium parts is if they are going to improve performance or help with other parts, e.g.: slipper clutch and hinge pin retainers. The slipper is great for jumping and the retainers that come with the kit release the pins too easily. Plastic is great for taking impact and spreading the force throughout other parts and that is why most 1/8th's that race use mainly plastic and some manufactures don't have aluminium "upgrades" available. The words "upgrade" and "aluminium" are used to promote a product that perhaps is not of any benefit except "looks"

dimblum

For the front assembly there are aluminum 'arms', aluminum 'suspension mounts', aluminum 'suspension blocks', aluminum 'castor blocks' and aluminum 'uprights' available for the DB-01 chassis. I am guessing you are referring to the 'arms' only..

The aluminum arms are usually not favored as much since the arms should have some flex to absorb shock. However, the 'suspension mounts' and 'castor blocks' are weak points and typically should be replaced with aluminum parts. This seems to be the case with both the DB-01 and 501/511X chassis.

Hope this helps.

Norseman72

Ok, thank you for your answers. I'll by a new pair of suspension arms at my LHS today and replace them. I also got the aluminum suspension mounts and blocks. Also got the steel suspension balls. So the suspension will get hoped up today

dimblum

Awesome.. I almost forgot about the suspension balls.. I have been using them for a while now and they are great to lower friction and prevent the arms from wobbling due to wear of the kit plastic balls.

Every little bit seems to help this kit

malice23

heres a funny question...are you using the belt tensioners? because I know the kit comes with those built in tensioners in the front and rear diffs. If I use the belt tensioners how much do I tighten the belts from diff part? I dont want to snap them due to over tightening

dimblum

I found it is best to take your time setting the belt tension.. The belt should never sag, so loose is 'always' bad, however too tight can be equally bad.. It seems the sweet spot is to find a firm belt tension that still allows the pulleys to spin free. If the belts are too tight then it will pull tight against the layshaft and diff causing excess friction.. The belts are still fine if they are a little tight (they are very well made), but the drive-train will not spin as freely as it could.

If you can, try setting the belt tension with the covers off and the motor pinion removed. This will make it easier to tell how freely the drive-train will spin and how much tension is too much [you don't want the belts to 'twang' like a guitar string - that is wayyyy too tight].

The additional hop-up belt tensioners for the motor mount assembly are also nice. They help prevent the belts from skipping around the layshaft pulleys.. The hop-up tensionsers should not touch the belts, its better if they are set 'extremely' close so that no additional tension is applied.

Hope this helps.

ElectricGuy007

Good, I thought I had those tensioners set incorrectly but after looking my car over they are really close but not touching the belt.
My belts are tight but not so tight that they hinder the pulleys like guitair strings.
There was another guy here locally that used to have an original 501x and he had his belts loose, but that might have been due to him running
a 12T brushed motor. And he ran brown AE springs on the front of his car and blue AE on the rear,
I've tried those and went back to the stock white springs.
The kit shock oil my car came with I have been using but never felt like changing it, I'm pretty sure it's 40WT oil on all 4 corners.
I have tried 35WT AE oil on all 4 corners also, didnt feel like much difference.

Lanzo

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, you will probably want a higher-strung motor if you desire the Durga to be FAST. If the current motor is not too warm after running, you could try a taller gear ratio(i.e. larger pinion) before changing everything else. I like your paint job, BTW.

Lanzo

P.s. yeah teh paint job turned out great, very happy!!

dimblum

Congrats on your new Durga.. The Sport Tuned motor is a stock 27 turn brushed motor, so unfortunately you are not going to get too much speed out of it.. A 19 turn motor would be the next best choice if you want a boost of speed without going super fast. If you do decide to invest in a brushless rig, then you may want to try a 13.5 turn before jumping to a 10.5 or faster...

I found the 13.5 to be the breaking point between moderate driving skill and advanced driving skill... Ever since I graduated to a faster motor (6.5 turn), I feel like I have had to re-learn a lot of my control skills - it's like driving a different car when you are capable of extreme speeds..

Lanzo

crusadores

Welcome Lanzo!

My EzRun 8.5T Esc/motor combination costs 114USD. It is the same as Yeah Racings offering, although they both now offer version 2 for the price. I had no problems with overheating, after 25 minutes bashing or 3 consecutive 5 minute races.
The short course i am racing has 3 medium jumps and 2 straights (30meters). I barely manage to get to top speed with
a 17T pinion, although the car accelerates very fast!
Basically, i bash around short grass, dirt (hard packed) and pavement.

My setup:

- EzRun 8.5T motor + EzRun 60A ESC (RCMart) or Yeah Racing
- Stock 17T or 23T pinion (on the 91T stock spur)
- Carbide rear diff balls (just to be on the safe side, but i had no indication of overheating with the stock steel ones)
- Single slipper clutch
- Yeah Racing (#TRF501X-018BU) Aluminum Wheel Washer Set (i wanted to fit hex wheels.Nice alternative!)
- Aluminum Front/Rear Suspension Mount Set (this is the only aluminum upgrade which is barely visible and adds strength)
- T-Bone bumpers (a MUST for bashing! Right price for absolute protection)

After 4 months, i never had a problem. No mechanical, no electronics problem! ... Nothing broken even when i bashed around HPI E-Savages acquired a habit of taking over by ramming and throwing 'em in the air! (yes, exactly what you read!)

Lanzo

Thanks Crusadores! Exactly the type of info I have been looking for!!!

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

If you are willing to spend a bit more than the EZRun combos cost but not Novak/LRP money, look into Castle. Specifically, look at the Sidewinder combos. They are very tuneable either using the transmitter or the "castle link". I race my DB-01 with a Sidewinder & CMS4600 combo. I do not wish for more power. I have been using their plane controllers for years with not a single issue, and I have two of their car setups, again no problems(I do have a dodgy power switch on my MMM esc, but I always have problems with switches on ESC and usually remove them anyway).

To answer the sensored/sensorless question: Typically, in the past, sensored systems offered smoother startup because a hall sensor tells the controller the motor's rotor position, where sensorless systems rely on back-EMF from the motor and an algorithm to guess which phase to power next. Sensorless systems were sometimes choppy due to early software and less capable batteries. Today, the sensored advantage is not nearly as large as it once was since the controller software and the batteries are so much better than 3-4 years ago.

malice23

your motor is too weak...get urself a good brushless motor and dont worry about maintenance. The durga can take it. Plus dont even think of comparing the Frog to the durga...I had a frog and the rear dogbones kept popping out constantly so it is a primitive design and seriously outdated. the DB01 has endless amounts of hop-ups to make it really competetive and the time/money is well worth it.

Lanzo

Thanks for all the help!