Brillon1,

I checked out the Aerofly website and the screenshots of the graphics don't look too good. After flying G2 I don't think I can take a step backwards in visual realism despite the better 3D modeling in Aerofly.

JC

i would rather take a slight step backward in graphics only to take a MAJOR step foreward in flying realism after all that is what im using it for. G2 realism is moderate especially on 3D. aerofly is about as close as you can get.

Well, like drumbum said, realism is much more important than graphics. If you want a fun video game stick with G2. But, if you seriously want to improve your flying skills with a quality "simulator" get aerofly. It all depends what is important to you but G2 will develop bad habits because of it's inaccurate physics set. It does have better graphics, but I'm not going to risk a plane when I try a move for the first time because I chose a sim that was pretty. It's obvioulsy a matter of opinion but I think AFP is the best ---- bar none.

Brillon1

I just got back from the field and my u-can-do 46 flew great.

I'm using a K&B 61 Twister motor and a ACP 13 x 4w prop.

The only problem I see is that it is just to fast.

I like the power it has but I would like to cut the top speed in half.

What prop do you suggest?


Ralph

There aren't too many props that would allow you to decrease your top speed below what your at. The only thing you might try is a 14 x 4w and see how it tachs. But keep in mind it will spool slower and put a heavier load on the engine.

I have the 46 size version. It has a OS 50 spinning a 13x4 wide prop.

build quality is farely good accept you can not get to landing gear block to reinforce unless you

rip it off. One piece wing bolts with 2 1/4 -20 nylon bolts.

This plane flies as slow as a paper airplane with power or dead stick. I have taught my son to fly

on this plane he had 18 landings before I had to repair the gear. Now he is trying to hover!!!!!

the c-g range on this kit is from 4 - 6 inches. and at the front it behaves just like the back.

very very stable in hover I have been using cool power 30% for best hover pullouts.

This plane does some funky snaps though. the snap looks very bazzare and tumbling maneuvers

require almost full elev deflection.


All in all a great plane to learn hovering and basic 3-d.

If you like snap rolls and crazy 3-d tumbles look at aeroworks, but hovering wont be as

simple. AP

left throttle stick pull it back i use those props to slow down on landing if your below half throttle the prop puts the brakes on

the u can't do 3d's are great for learning throttle control

wow i just weighed my ucd 60 and it came in at 7.1 on the digital fish scale and is this light or what? if i recall everyone elses came in at 7.5+. have saito 100, carbon fiber rods, r700 slimline, and zinger 15x6

GJ, either you need a different scale or you have the 'Holy Grail' of UCDs. I built a few and they were all around 7-1/2+lbs. give or take a few oz. My present one, when it had a Saito 100 and APC prop, it came in @ 8 lbs. Now with the YS 110 its @ 8.6 lbs. Under repair as we speak so it could possibly get fatter. Out of five builds, they were all pretty close......until this one. Everyone went together exactly the same, so I guess this one was from a heavier batch of balsa or the kid in the assembly line was heavy on the glue. Good luck with that lightweight. Joe

well joe i guess it dont matter because i was doing a knife edge about 20 ft up and came out on high rates and screwed up so i am now a member of the smash up big time club.went into the ground almost straight in so the next one will be better. miraculously my electronics and engine survived. oh what a video it would have made. well im off to the hobby shopi go. but as far as the scales went i had no way to cal them except a 5 lb dumbbell and it was on so i really dont know .ill be back

done that before!! came out on high rates and ended up inverted and then gave it up at about 20ft with my Jumping Jack. mine landed square in the nose and crushed it back to the 2nd former. being that the JJ came from Japan I had to wait from may till 3 weeks ago to get a new cowl. As a matter of fact i just got through rebuilding it today. I saved every piece i could find and glued it all back together to make templates for new wood. then I home laser cut (dremel tool) the formers

Knife edge @ 20 ft. rolled inverted, thought it was upright, you know the rest. I'm on the bench for the very same reason. Shattered the nose and the LG through the wing. Glad I saved my other UCD remains as I was able to cut the nose section off a less fortunate fuse and installed it. Saved a lot of time and work. Stripped it down to the bones and am ready to cover. Will do a new color scheme as I always had trouble seeing it on overcast days. There won't be any blue on this one. Should have a cowl by Wednsday, funfly on Sunday. Gotta get busy. Joe

Experemented with different props on my UCD60/SAITO100 these weekends.
It seems 16X4 is too large for this motor, but 15X4 is too small
What about the idea to cut 16X4 to 15" in length. Just cut about 1/2" from each tip. It seems it should be the best prop for ucd60/saito100.
Anyone tried that? What do you you think?

crank

I've cut a lot of props, you would benefit from the slightly wider paddles of a cut down 16 inch, but I feel you wouldn't notice the missing 1/2 inch on either end. It may require a little more off to compensate for the wider paddle. Zinger makes a 16/5 that you could cut, the paddles aren't as wide as the 16/4 APC and that one inch off just might do it. But it is a wood prop. I ran the 16/4 and the 15/6 on the Saito 100 and now use a 16/6 and a 17/4 on the YS 110. Joe

Stay away from wood props!!!! I tried the 16*5 zinger and it was terrible. Very inefficient blade design. Stick to APC or graupner for your basic props. They are very well designed and will yield the best results, and trust me I know through experience. You might want to try the W series of APC's if your not already. The 15*4w on 30% in a Saito 100 will make alot of power and let you keep the engine rich and happy. If not try a 15*6, 16*4w, or 16*6 and try using the stick on the right, you know the one with the dust on it. I fly a 15*6 on a YS 91 on a UCD60 and it is a terrific combo. Just my 2 cents.

Bought AFP yesterday. Your advice plus the video on the OMP site conviced me that the AFP airplanes fly like the real ones for 3D. I hope I get it before the weekend. The weather is supposed to be bad.

JC

I got mine. took me awhile to set up and config. planes fly great! The only issue i have is with hovering. I can not get 1 plane to hover... seems like there is no "sweet spot" they either want to pull up or fall off. the closest i could come to hovering with aerofly is with the OMP yak 54 profile. also hammer head turns seem a little wierd. pattern flying is KILLER!. Rolling harriers are great. blenders are good but not fast. high Alpha KE and harriers are good. I like KE to snap roll/opposite KE manuver , that tracks good. KE loops great. I guess one day i will figure out how to set a plane up to hover realisticly on it. but even if i cant im still getting the stick control down trying. I can hover all my models but not in aerofly

well i picked up ucd#2 today and am hard at work although my du bro pinned hinges probley wont arrive untill next fri. dont know if i can wait. hey guys i was at a hobby store today and picked up a bottle of cool power fuel 30% heli but nowhere on the jug does it say how much or what kind of oil is in it.is this the right kind?the guy in the shop really didnt convince me he knew anything about it. thanks for the help.oh by the way the fuel is for a saito100

drumbum,

Got the AFP running tonight an already have a couple of hours on it. My initial observations are:

1. Compared to RF G2 it is a cartoon.
2. The sound is horrible, absolutely terrible.
3. Overall the user interface is not as refined as G2.
3. The AFP airplanes do 3D, i.e. hover, TR, high-alpa, better than G2. I am comparing the 3D airplanes that I downloaded from the net that "fool" G2 into flying 3D - not the stock ones that come with G2 - they are terrible.

I downloaded a bunch of 3D airplanes from the AFP site. I wish there were more, but I haven't really looked around.

I can hover and TR all the "3D" airplanes that came with the sim as well as the ones that I downloaded. You have to be fast with a lot of control input on the included 3D flyers like the Extra and Giles. Sometimes a control input with a blast of throttle will get you back in the groove.

I like the 3D realism that this flight sim brings as well as the ability to use my real TX to do the flying - creates the same feel. I just wish that I did not have to sacrifice the nicer graphics and user interface of G2. Maybe G3 will get the flight physics right. We'll see, but in the mean time I'll be flying a lot of AFP.

JC

23% all synthetic

I dont know. maybe its my calibration or something but mine dont do anything like my models in a hover (attempt)

here are some planes here http://www.rc-sim.de/dl_engine_eng/i...449bda11ac6bc6

guess what! I hooked my G2 controller up instead of my hitec flash 5 and my planes will hover!!! I have no idea what it is. Maybee its my setup in the radio for expo and all that stuff. my last plane i used that radio with I also had the servos set at 120%. I dont know if any of this programming in the radio is effecting my flying on areofly but. ITS FIXED!!!!!

Hey, glad to hear it! I was a little perplexed last night myself. My G2 controller worked, but my Futaba TX did not. I ended up having to switch the radio from PCM to PPM and it worked flawlessly. My G2 controller is a little stiff on the sticks. My Futaba 8UAPS is really smooth.

JC

The motherload! Thanks!

JC

Okay, getting back to UCD busisness. I t s b a c k !!! After about fourty intense hours, its ready to maiden, again. I've been first flighting UCDs for two years now. I need a break. Sporting new colors and a new 'Hatori' header for that mechanical marvel, the YS 110FZ. Don't know what I'm going to do for a muffler as of yet, but for now I'll go with the open header.........ohhh yeahhhhh !!! It seems to be missing something and I was thinking of that stripe that goes over the cowl and runs down the side, maybe not. Check it out. From this.......to this!! Joe

Forgot, I finalized the rudder design by adding a couple more inches to the top at an upward angle towards the back. Right now its at about 64 sq. in. compared to the original 80 sq. in.