A bit too much vibration I would say( SA 1.25 in a .46 Do) and way over kill. I had SA 1.00 in my .46 Do, I rigged up my own home built soft mount(maybe I should apply for a patent??!!), it shook so bad it even moved around a bit on the ground!!! After removing the mount it was OK with the 1.00, still a little too much vibration but it lasted for year before I retired it to the hanger, 40 size for 3-D is too squirlly for me, .60 size is not a whole lot better but some.

Just recieved my UCD 60 and am debating between the YS110 and OS120ax what do you guys think, the os is about 3 oz heavier than the ys.

You couldn't go wrong with either of those engines, but, the only thing that comes to mind is typically a 4 stroke is easier to start inverted. My 1.08 can be a pain in da butt to start sometimes.

Depends on your situation, how much you want to spend,how important weight is to you, & a few other minor factors. If you want the lightest weight, most thrust, best throttle response & $$$ doesnt matter: YS 1.10(& you dont mind an angine that adjusts somewhat differently than others), else wise, just a plain old simple good quality 2-stroker will get it done for you, I prefer OS myself, a .91 AX or 1.20 AX would do. A .91 AX w/moose can or tuned pipe would be great, 1.20 AX wouldn't need a tuned pipe at all. A fuel system would be optional, tank up front-wouldn't need one, tank over CG- should probably get one. I prefer OS because of the carburation, the best (other than YS of course).

Thanks for the info, ordered the YS110 I was leaning towards the OS120ax but figured I would save alittle weight and eliminate the pump issue that could come up.

I noticed in the manual they tried an OS120 four stroke and stated it would not sit still at idle, I am guessing the YS110 will have the same problem.

Well, My UCI bit the dirt today Was getting overl confident in my low low hovers, and I decided to lean the engine out a couple clicks, and boy that was a mistake. Few feet off the ground she went hot and sagged. She dropped on the nose from about 6 feet up, and busted the whole front end off. It looks easily repairable. Dang, and was just getting the hang of it too! LOL...

I have experienced the same thing a lot , its not a problem in the winter & fall, below 70, as soon as it heats up, all my glows will sag if I dont richen the high end a few clicks. It only does it in hovers which tells you how extreme it is for the engines. I end up with barely enough pull out, but as long as its not sagging it'll work. Instead of trying to go up when there's trouble hovering, just get it level ASAP, whether its inverted,upright or KE.

Yup, leveling out is exactly what I was attempting to do, but as it went past level, it just carried to much momentun and slammed the nose into the ground, LOL... Oh well, it was still a great day of flying!!

Hi Cabane;

I noticed the servo in your picture of the remote glow starter. Is this the throttle servo? More details please. I'm trying to place my fuel tank on the CG and I'm not sure where to put my throttle servo.

Thanks;
Rod

I have my fuel tank on CG also, I put the throttle servo on the plywood sheet that is the bottom of the stock fuel tank bay, it is slanted downward from behind the firewall. A Hitec HS81 mini MG servo fits sideways very well, I use 2/56 push rod that is curved to pass around & away from the muffler flange, its only a few inches to the throttle arm. There isn't much room for it in any other place when you move the tank over CG.

Guys, I just started flying a UCD60. So far I like it. I'm a beginner/intermediate flyer. Can do some basic manuvers and burn lots of holes in the sky. No 3D yet. I'm using a ST90 w/ an APC 13x6 prop. While the ST90 seems to be able to hold it vertical, there is no more umph to get it going after it's stationary. You guys are running larger engines. Would you think the ST90 is marginal like it seems to be? Do I need to be thinking about a different prop?

Thanks for any feedback.

Well, it was like we said in your other post, the ST90 is a heavy pig of a motor. No offense to you, it's just that particular motor doesn't swing a big prop, at high rpm's, which is essential for the performance you're looking for. You might try a 14x4 prop, but the motor is still going to be weak.

If u want powerrrrrrr put a OS120ax on it. I have one on mine and it will do all u need power for.

Thats my next engine if I get another Do. I think it weighs less than the old OS 1.08 I use now. On that "sagging" engine,some of my best hovering was while my engine was sagging, it dropped down nice and slow while torque -rolling, I didnt even know it was sagging until I saw terra firma out of the corner of my eye, when it was time to "bail-out", I throttled up,, but,, nothing,, then in a panic I pushed down to get it level and the engine recovers soon there after. I thought I was getting good at TR & coming down, but having only 90% of the thrust needed to hold a hover was doing that for me!!!!!!! I cant wait for the winds to die down, its been the worst Spring I can remember as far as wind goes.

i have a question can i use futaba s3010 high torque servos for the ailerson on a .46 u-can-do or do they HAVE to be ball bearing?

You dont have to use ball bearing servos but over time more "slop" develops in the output arm/bushing & slop leads to the deadly killer "flutter".
I dont know about the S3010, I used Hitec HS 635 on mine with 4/40 rods & a 6V battery. (83 oz. torque & Karbonite gears) I've seen guys use standard Futaba S148 servos & only 2/56 rods on a .60 Do and get away with it. Thats a non-ball bearing & only 40 oz. torque I believe. The guy is a great flyer and knows not to over speed the plane with such light gear, he only did slow 3-D stuff with it. I think the HS 635 are only around $25 if you catch a sale.

Yes you can use Futaba S3010 on all surfaces of a UCD 46 and have all the torque you would ever need. And, they do have a single ball bearing on the output shaft. The weight is only 1.4oz. The price is $22.99. I use them on 3D planes up to 1.60 size.

I also use the standard Futaba S3004 servo on a UCD 60 with 2-56 push rods. And yes, it can do knife edge loops with that servo on rudder. Maybe Futaba servos deliver more torque than advertised. The S3004 is rated at 44 oz-in at 4.8V and 57 oz-in at 6v. It also has a single ball bearing on the output shaft and weighs 1.3oz. Price is $12.99.

thank you rocketman and thank you mixmaster for the reply i had acutally ordered the servos already from towerhobbies and i had started putting the plane together and i stopped to ask you guys. i am putting futabas s3010 for ailerons and ruuder and 2 s3004 for elevator. i am just deciding which are the best servo arms to use for the ailerons , the elevator and ruuder while i finish the rest of the plane... again thanks for the qiick replies

MalibuSkier,
The 13x6 is the wrong prop for that ST 90 in a UCD.
Try an APC 15x4w. You'll see a big improvement.

Here'a couple short videos of my UCD60 powered by a ST 90 with an APC 15x4w prop.

http://the******************.com/~vi...0mcddd%201.wmv

http://the******************.com/~vi...0mcddd%202.wmv

EDIT: It seems that the full name of the probro web site hosting these videos has been censored.
That's unfortunate since these videos clearly prove that a ST 90 will easily pull a UCD60 out of a hover.....and more.

has anyone put a os .91 2 stroke on a u-can-do .46. i wanted to use that engie because ii have a brand new one from a scratched project. is it too much for that plane or can it be done with proper throttle management. if someone has done it and has pics fromt the install please post.i would really hate to go out and buy another engine ... oh and by the way which are the best heavy duty servo arms for this plane that will let you utilize the full 3d potential ?

It should hold up with less vibration than the Saito 100 I had in mine. It vibrated a lot at certain RPM, that covering sounds like a tight drum skin being beaten, but it held together for many flights. I used 4/40 rods with Hitec HS635 Karbonite servos & a 6V battery, no troubles at all with a 5 pitch prop. I wouldnt go for max speed(higher than 6 pitch), the plane is far from a precision aerobat or racer for that matter. For just a lot of fun trying different stunts & 3-D, its great for that. My best flights (3-D)were in calm wind with this plane, I could harrier it to the deck and hover too. It weighed around 6.5 lbs if I remember.

What flight battery is everyone using? I am thinking of using a 1500 2S 20C lipo pack with a voltage regulator. Will this be enough battery for digital servos all around?

Thanks;
Rod

Hi Rod, this is how i had mine, hope it helps.

Its your Do, Do it like you wanna Do!! I did mine like I wanted to yesterday,must have been one of the few nicest days this year. Got DOD a lot but no tail touching. I was just inches from it though. I had to see if I could still do it after a couple months off. I got lucky on one hover, lucky cause I was 20 feet up when the prop blew off, it did a tail slide & then flipped inverted, lucky it had some speed, I just rolled it & landed. That sound is something, the engine goes to 20,000 RPM in an instant. With the hot weather coming, I might quit with the glows and fly just gas for the summer, or finish the DV.

I would be pleased if someone can help me with prop selection for the u-can-do 60, I have tried a 13x8, 14x8, 14x6 APC and master and can't just get on song with it, good but I would like better. The motor is a super tigre G90, any help would be appreciated