Hopping for under 8.00 LBS,Just need some help from people that have one of this planes.What are the do's and the don't's

Didn't notice the carbon gear listed... that will help for sure. Which brand carbon are you going with?

-s

The landing gear from moose.

I went to http://moosecarbonfiber.tripod.com and didn't see anything that matches the UCD dimensions. Tell me a little bit more about which tail gear you are going to use. Im at that step in the building process and don't care for their recommendations.

Thanks Falcon. I have a standard set of dewalt drill bits (24 bits I think), but they are all fraction size and as far as I can see .136" is equal to 17/125. Needless to say I don't have that bit. I'll have to run to lowes or sears and buy that one. lol

And like the other guy mentioned, I'm gonna just buy longer screws also and use nuts with thread lock. Thanks.

Just for the data banks, mine weighs 7 and 5 ounces. That's with the Saito 100 w/Perry pump/remote glow connector, Sullivan tail gear and 4-40 rods. All the rest built per. I glued the tail on too. I've got 605's all around and 81 on throttle. I just haven't made time to fly it yet... I did get to run the engine in the yard!


That's 7 lbs 7 ounces .

Daryl Lane: Is that a 4 cycle YS engine or 2 cycle? CJ

YS91 is a four stroke

Ive got the same set up, Does the Perry pump solve the fuel flooding/siphoning issue?

What are you guys using to cut the holes out in your cowl? Some of the pictures I've seen on here show really clean cut holes. I'd like mine to look nice too. I've got a dremel tool and a drill. I'm sure I'll need to use the dremel to cut the air intake in the front, but was wondering if a regular drill would work on the round access holes. Sometimes certain bits can tear fiberglass to shreds. I don't want that to happen with mine.

#29 is a wire gauge size. True Value hardware stores around here sell them. Over the years I've accumulated a fair number of them on an individual need basis.

mt

I used a dremel tool with the angled stone bit (looks sorta like an arrowhead with a rounded point). I drilled a hole large enough to accommodate the head of the bit, and just pushed it in slowly, until I got the desired size. I did the same thing with the cooling vents on the nose. Just take your time and let the wheel do the work. Get it close, then take some 400 wet/dry sandpaper and smooth out any edges. That also takes the stray fiberglass shards away cleanly.

I used a new drill bit for the holes for the screws.

If you have a tap and drill set I think the #29 drill bit is used to drill the hole for a 8-32 tap.

Eric

Bullet Bits drill nice round holes in fiberglass.
I have these from Black & Decker.

Also, Blair makes hole saws that cut perfect holes. Expensive? Why worry, after all, it is only money and you can always make more!

Allie33

For any of you that are using an EZ fueler glow valve are you putting an inline filter between the valve and the carb or between the tank and the filler?

Oh BTW, I used the cone shaped stone with my dremel tool to cut perfectly round smooth holes in the cowling. It worked great.

As per my usual, I've made my agonizing descision on how to route the antenae from the receiver. I internally ran the antenae the full length of the fuselage and on the sloped portion of the fuse near the tail wheel mount I drilled a hole and ran a 2 inch piece of fuel tubing down the hole. I snaked the antenae through the fuel tubing. There was a few inches of antenae that extends out to about the rudder hinge.

I still need to trim the tube and secure it, but I think it will work OK. I'll do a really good range check to make sure. I don't have anything that should interfere. I'm running the 2 elev servos on 2 seperate channels on my 9C.

coomarlin,
A filter between filler and tank would just catch dirt when you fuel up, then dump it in the engine when running it. A filter should be the last thing the fuel encounters before reaching the engine, so between filler and engine is the correct place. Also run a filter on your filler hose from your fuel storage container.
I ran my antenna through a hole on top of fuse, right behind canopy, down the top of fuse, to the root of the vertical stab.
DKjens

I put a video up of the U-Can-Do. Check it out at:

http://www.sanantoniorc.com/page/video1.htm


They are in Divx (www.divx.com) format.

coomarlin,
Looking at the picture, I noticed that you draped the antenna inside the spring of the tail wheel. Baaaddd idea! Trust me. The tip of the antenna should be no where near any metal surfaces, especially that nice looking Sullivan tail wheel that has metal-to-metal connections (spring and brass eyelet). These often can cause glitches, especially when the tip of the antenna is in close proximity. I opt to route all my rcvr antenna outside the fusealage. See http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...324#post550408
Better safe than sorry..

I absolutely agree with you. I just stuck it there temporarily to keep it out of my way for now and to keep myself from pulling it back into the fuse while messsing with my receiver up front. I have a piece of tape on it now for that purpose. I still need to clean the exit hole up along with the tubing and will route that last bit of antenae away from the tailwheel. )

One last thing to do to my UCD to complete it. I need to install the canopy. I've seen a lot of pictures of some of your finished UCD's and I like the looks of the black canopy. I want to paint it. Any recommendations on a particular type of black paint? Also, do I need to rough up the inside of the canopy with steel wool or anything?

is any one looking for a new iin the box u can do..
hav one 4sale..
email [email protected]

Coolmarlin,
Real easy. Buy yourself a $1.99 can of Black Enamel paint from Walmart (or like). I have a Benny's near me that often sells them for 99 cents. I used glossy. The trick is to completely cover the outside of the canopy so that paint spray won't mess up the outside of the canopy. Using wide masking tape, I tape a "bag" (any type that fits) over the canopy, overlapping the edges with the tape. After all is covered, I simply trim the tape around the canopy edge with a razor. Then simply place upside down and spray as evenly as you can. I often use two to three light coats. I also often attach my canopies with clear silicone along with the supplied screws. Stops rattling and such. With the UCD, mine rattled like crazy (as thin and flimsy as it is).

Cool. So you just used basic enamel paint instead of some specailty hobby brand? Thats good to know. The only paint my local hobby shop is some old sig paint that appears to have been sitting around for several years.

I figured I'd cover the outside like you said. Trimming the masking tape with a razor knife is a good idea. I'll try it. Thanks.

Coo,
I just painted mine the other day. Pactra makes a paint for the inside of the lexan rc car bodies. You can't always be sure that spray paint from a hardware store won't attack the canopy. Parma also makes a water based paint for car bodies called Fascolors or something like that.
I shot mine with silver and will trim the glue line with black trim tape. I don't like to glue to paint so I mask off a 1/4" along the inside bottom of the canopy.
My canopy glue is drying now. Now I have to wait on a half way decent day to fly!
basmntdweller