i guess i'm just concerned about not using any glue on the stab. i would like to just bolt it down, but i'm worried about something happening.
as far as the linkage, i agree with the 2 servos, but i've always put them back to back to ensure the linkages were as close to identical as possible (my aeroworks edge with jr3421 digi's), but for this plane the servos are offset and the linkages are very different in shape and geometry. thats why i was considering the bellcrank.
Aridium, have you already installed your elevators and linkages?? if so, do they move together, or do they move at different speeds??
thanks.
tony

no, I haven't installed them yet, I'm still considering using mini servo's and cutting new holes. I see what you mean by different offset's.

Also I'm not an expert builder, but I'm not to concerned with not gluing the stab. steel is stronger than glue I had another ARF that had a bolt on stab and it flew fine. Came lose once so I used some thread lock. Never happened again.

Can't wait to fly this "UCD"

vatechguy3 wrote.
I jumped on the wagon yesterday and ordered a ucd. in fact, i had it overnighted too.

I cut away the stab fillet as per the instructions and bolted the stab and fillet as the instructions indicate, no glue, just the 6-32 bolts through the fillet and stab and into the fuse. (with locktight) It is plenty strong and hasn't loosened in a dozen flights. As for using a MK bellcrank, it is not necessary. All the provided hardware is fine and works well. I am using a 9-Z radio so it is easy to get the throws the same by running two seperate channels for elevator. Even if you have to run a y harness, you can get it plenty close, this is not a F3A pattern plane. I followed the instructions to the letter EXCEPT for my engine choice and am happy with the outcome. I have built a couple hundred airplanes over the years and it is amaizing how well this new breed of ARF is built.

Rob

For those that have gotten this plane already, does it look like there are any opportunities to lighten it?

Also, Has anyone flown this plane with a YS91 yet?

Thanks......Mark

as for lightening it, i don't see anything you could do, but then i don't think its necessary with 1000 squares and 7lb flying weight.

rob, i know its not a pattern plane, but i would like it to trim for hands of flight. i have a 9C radio and can adjust center and endpoints, but i'm more worried about the geometry difference in the linkage. its pretty big. what all did you have to do in your radio to get the halves to move together??
thanks.
tony

VGUY3

For starters you will want to use the "Ailevators" condition in your radio, plug your right EL. servo in to CH. #2 and your left servo into ch. #5( this is how the 9 zap works and I would venture to guess the 9 C is the same) Use the sub trims on each channel to get a perfect 90 degrees between the servo horn and each pushrod. Follow the book on getting the proper direction and throws. Depending on the servos, you can get perfect neutral and end points and damn close on anything in between. You can mix out anything you deem not hands off at partial deflection.

Hope this helps, Rob

rob, i know how to use ailevators. i currently use this for my edge with dual elevator servos. with this plane, i got the centers and endpoints the same, but was unable to get the travel identical until i got the linkages identical. maybe the 9C is not as good as the 9Z in getting this the same.
i was thinking maybe the difference in servo location from one side to the other and the other geometry difference allows the servos to move the same.
i am making too much out of this difference??

RCU will be doing a review on the U Can Do.

How many and what length servo extensions do's the UCD3D need? What size wheels come with this ARF? What's the included hardware like? Mine is on it's way and I'd like to know what else I need to get to get this model flyable...

Thanks!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by vatechguy3
[B]rob, i know how to use ailevators. i currently use this for my edge with dual elevator servos.

Not sure why your geometry is off so far. My linkage is coming off the top side of each el. servo and although one pushrod is quite a bit shorter, the angle between the pushrods and the servo arm is close to identical. I would say get it as close as you can and let her rip!

Good luck,
Rob

I picked up my UCD today at the LHS.

As for lightening it?????? I don't know. Its built strong not light. IMO it could use less wood. It is goooooooood looking. I'm gonna play with it tonight and see what is what.

As I have the OS 91 in my hand to pay for it, my son, Zane (5), tells me we have a motor at home that will work. I tell him no we don't. He tells me he is POSITIVE we have a motor and tells me not to buy the 91. I don't know why, but I listen to the 5 year old. We get home, he ruuuuuuuuuns into the shop and walks out with a OS 108. I never thought of it, so we are gonna try a 108 on it.

No pics yet, but I will report on what I find out.

DARN!!!!

The fuse is very narrow, and the 108 is too wide.

I must say, nice ARF. Covering is great, paint on cowling and pants is great, paint on the gear is a nice touch, tail all locks together and you can make the elevator removable, all the bulkheads are laser cut, very well built, maybe too well.


Nice plane, ding dang ol camera, someone wanna come over and take some pics haha.

I think your wife is behind him insisting you don't buy another engine.

"Zane, if you talk Daddy out of getting another engine mommy will get you that new Playstation" LOL

rob,
i have not set up my linkage yet. i was going off the pics in the manual. it shows one arm going up, and the other going down. but if you got both going up, the it should work fine. i will set mine up like that too.

for those who are flying or a little farther along, did you check the engine, wing and stab incidence?? if so, should it be 0-0-0?? and how is the balance coming out?? i'm putting in an 0s 91 fx and plan on breaking the engine in tomorrow before the plane is done, but i was wondering about moving the throttle servo forward or back a bulkhead. and has anyone found anything intersting to share to those of us doing the assembly??
thanks
tony

I have a OS 91FX in mine and putting the RX and RX pack behind the servo tray balanced it per instructions. The plane flies really good with the 91. Can pull out of hover no problem. Speaking of hover this thing hovers EASY. Very stable flier. Knife edge loops no problem. Can't get it to flat spin. It's close but the tail doesn't wan't to flaten out enough. Maybe more tail weight? Cool plane. I get alot of people checking it out.

Jaco
What prop do you run on the 91 FX?
how do you think an os 91 surpass would do? better or worse?

Thanks

Rickc

I'm using a 14X6 prop. If you look at output the .91 FX is 2.8 hp while the .91 surpass is around 1.6 hp and the surpass is over 4 oz. heavier.

Flew close to a gallon today and had a ball! The 1.40 is running good and the power is unreal. I added 5 oz. of tail weight which brought my c/g to 5" back without fuel. This c/g seens good to me and hover and torque rolls are good. ( this is the only airplane I've had that I can torque roll) I will now move my battery pack to the back of the fuse and remove the weight.

NOTE: this is not a complaint but I have found one thing that is a problem, when really pounding on the rudder the rudder pushrod will bend,(and stay bent) Not a major problem it just changes your rudder trim but it is a little disconcerting. Again, I am flying with more power than reccomended but I would reccomend soldering a brass tube over the pushrod or using a carbon fiber pushrod. I will go with a carbon sleeve over the regular pushrod and should be good to go. The rest of the linkages are fine and have shown no problems in some pretty serious flying today.

Have fun, I am!

Rob

Maybe you guys still building the plane mount the rudder servo under the fuselage with a short pull pull cable setup to the rudder.

Filip

[QUOTE]Originally posted by FilipM
[B]Maybe you guys still building the plane mount the rudder servo under the fuselage with a short pull pull cable setup to the rudder.

Do not blow this out of proportion, nothing other than a simple piece of brass tubing needs to be soldered over the supplied rudder push rod. Even a piece of 1/4" sq. hard balsa could be added, just wrapped with thread to attach.

Rob

OR just replace the supplied 2-56 hardware with 4-40 stuff.

Is the hardware pkg ok or do you need to upgarde? I.e. the fuel tank, control horns, linkages, wheels, etc. Any changes from the recommended plan book as to how to do something better?

I want to try this plane with an OS 91 surpass no pump version. What's the weight difference between this and a YS 91?

Did Crest toothpaste have anything to do with the color scheme?

question about the belly pan. mine is about an inch or so too short. if pushed against the former with the wing dowl holes, there is an inch gap in the rear wing former. is this common, or is it just mine??
thanks guys.
tony

I think it's just yours. On mine the belly pan leaves about a 1/16th inch gap in the front and back. Bummer, call up Gplanes and tell them you want another!

i guess i'll have to do that.
thanks for the pic. your plane looks great. i can't wait to finish mine and get it in the air.

i assume the two smaller holes on the right side of your cowl are for the muffler screws?? what size holes did you need to get good access to those bolts??
thanks
tony