Ripper, this is the first in what could be at least one more mod to the existing rudder to see if I'm headed in the right direction before I finalize a new rudder. On this mod I removed 3" from the top or 19 sq. in. From the back edge of the rudder, I measured up to the top 10-1/4" then from the front, where the leading edge meets the horizontal stab, I measured up 1-1/4" Peeled the covering down to the first cross brace, fitted and glued in place the new ridge piece, or top rail, and once cured I cut off the unwanted part. Sand and re cover. The next mod will be to remove part of the upper rear vertical piece and reinstall it at an angle. From the bottom rear corner of the rudder, angled in about two inches from the top rear. The first mod brought the overall area down to 66 sq. in. I realize on the next mod I will lose more, but it is only a test for further direction. On the new one I plan to add about 1" to the heel of the fuse where the wheel mounts so I will be able to extend the rudder down another inch. At that point I will extend the width at the bottom by app. 1" That will result in more volume below the horizontal thrust line, where, right now is the area that seems to need enlarging. My goal on the new rudder is to keep to 60 to 65 sq. in.
On the line clamps, Dubro makes Fuel Line Clips. Get the smallest ones and you still have to pinch them with a pair of pliers to close them further for a snug fit.
On the Cline, I have no problem with it being too rich, my problem is that when the sun starts to drop and we lose a couple of degrees, or the air gets denser, mine leans out. Right now I'm at about 2-1/4 turns out. You will find that the old three clicks out to richen does not work with pressurized systems. Its more like 1/4 turns. As Shogun pointed out, it takes some getting used to.
On the servos, I'm outfitted with JR digitals DS 811s and a DS 8321 on rudder. I now find that I'm wearing them out, but they are quick and powerfull. Good luck, Joe

I don't know why you are saying not hitec, but, maybe b/c all but on dig servo is overkill. They have a new one (HS-5475HB) that is 61oz/.23 at 4.8v for $35 and has the .. might be a little slow, but, has the dual bb and karbonite gears and would get the 50+ asked for in the ucd instructions.
http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-547...d_digital.html
and the HS-5625MG is awesome for $20 more
digital/110oz/.17SEC/DUAL BB/Metal Gear for about $55...

Closest thing I see in price is jr's 55oz/.21 digi for $70.. can't find the rest of the specs.. but.. I think it is nylon gear and no BB.
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/prod...prod=JRPSDS368
or this one for $90
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/prod...?prod=JRPS8231

futaba:
S3050 $50 top bb only/MG .. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFKZ7&P=7

From there they just seem to go up in price.. If you are willing to spend about $80 you could get a coreless that would be fast and have more holding power than you would ever need. Airtronics is overpirced from what I see. I looked a while back and that is what I found.. might be some other stuff.

not trying to dog any product, maybe its just my luck. but my experience with hitec servos hasnt lead me to like them performance wize. for instance my 605 high torque 77oz doesnt hold any better than my standard jr537 and always seems to make noise trying to center and has more slop than I THINK IT SHOULD?! now my rudder servo- hs925mg has great speed and torque but for 70 i wouldnt think it would have as much gear slop as it does, and none of these servos are old in anyway. and i'm a firm beleiver in you get what you pay for! even though i dont have much to pay for anything with military pay!huh maybe these things are normal! but i'm a fanantic when it comes to rc! and i'm sure that most of us here are! so i expect the most for my buck!

maybe the upper end or hitec digital servos are better!dont know, but right now i'm very skeptical of buying their digitals

so far in my budget i'm looking at the futaba s3050 ds for about 50 bucks and at 6v it 90oz and .16 transit time it seems good, it doesnt show anything at 4.8v but i think it would be a vast improvement for my elev and ail's


RC IS MY AEROPLANE! get it?

I don't know what it means, but, futaba has a N/A on the 4.8... There are some N/R for others so.. curious if it will even run on 4.8?

http://www.futaba-rc.com/servos/futm0211.html

Might give them a call.

I found this interesting from futaba site.. in deciding on what servos. I hope that is not true about Metal Gears wearing out fast!! I just bought a bunch!!

Karbonite Gears - Karbonite gears are relatively new to the market. They offer almost 5 times the strength of nylon gears and also better wear resistance. Cycle times of well over 300,000 have been observed with these gears with virtually no wear. Servos with these gears are more expensive but what you get in durability is more than equaled.


Metal Gears - Metal gears have been around for sometime now. They offer unparalleled strength. With a metal output shaft, side-loads can be much greater. In applications that are jarred around, metal gears really shine. There are two cons to metal gears, weight and wear. First, metal gears are much heavier than both nylon and karbonite gears. Second, metal gears wear several times that of nylon gears. How quickly depends on the loads that you place on the servo. They will eventually develop a slight play or slop in the gear-train that will be transferred to the spline. It will not be much but accuracy will be lost at some point.

Last radio question for me on the ucd topic I swear!! ha. I just got to thinking... srxripper.. how can you tell the servo does not have staying power and that it was close to the amount of your 537? Was it in flight? I want to test mine out somehow, but, don't know how.

well to test the holding power i simply deflected the surface with my hand, for instance i orginally had jr537 on my ail and simply moved the ail while it was holding it center position! and i swapped the 537 with the hitec 605. now the 605 had more torque to move the ail but the holding power was not quite up to par with the 537, i know this doesnt make much sense but its what i noticed. i know what i just performed might have varibles and no way to tell in oz's, but force is force either with my hand or in the air.

today i tacked my saito 100 with 16*4w apc at 8900 with 15% wildcat, i think i'm dogging it just a little so i think a 15*4w apc will do the trick, but if i ran 30% it would be fine but i really like the price of 15 compared to 30!

Finally almost finished my UCD60. Going to maiden her this weekend. Some last questions.
1. I’m new to 4 strokes. But I have new cline regulator. I decided to go without cline for the first flights just to avoid additional things needed to feel, adjust and keep an eye on. Without the cline I hope I will be able to use engine manual, information about needle turns, RPMs and so on to identify it runs not too lean or reach, runs properly and so on. I’m going to prevent from flooding problem just by minimizing the time between filling the tank and starting the engine. What you think does it make sense to go without cline for the first time?
2. Can you say how long does futaba rx 1500 nicad will work? Do I have to charge it on the field? I use futaba digital S9151 on rudder, JR DS811 on elevators, futaba s9001 on ailerons and standard hitec 422 on throttle.
3. The place where I fly most of the time has wind pointed right at 90 degrees to the runway Any special tricks for tacking off and landing with side wind on UCD? Make it sense to wait for no wind weather or wait until it’s possible to land into the wind? (My pilot skills allow me to freely take off/ land the trainer with side wind about 8 m/s.)
4. About balancing. I do not have any special balancing devices. I’m going to use just a pencil or drill by putting it under belly pan. What you think is it precise enough?

Thank you

As far as the cline is concerned I'd say the following. You can not expect to put the cline on and keep the same needle settings as you have without the cline. It will definately change. So running the first few flights without it can possibly cause a headache. I say headache mainly because a large majority of people that use inverted 4-strokes on a 60 sized UCD end up with fuel loading do to the stock tank placement. This can be frustrating and is often hard to find the right mixture settings. Not saying it can't be done because it certainly can. It's just not as easy as it should be. My suggestion is to do the following. Break the engine in "right-side-up" on a test stand. Tune the engine both low and high end idles and get it running as well as you can. Then when you put it in the UCD inverted put the cline on at that time and your settings won't be too far off. What I've found with the cline is that it broadens your sweetspot on the idle mixture. What I mean is that 1 or 2 clicks aren't quite as noticeable in terms of RPM flucuations. This is good because you don't spend all day trying to find the "right-click" so to speak. The cline is a proven performer and as long as it's properly plumbed it's hassle free.

As far as your other questions I'm not sure about the Futaba pack you are talking about. But as far as the cross wind is concerned the UCD lands like a big trainer and if you can land it in a crosswind you shouldn't have many problems with the UCD. If you are only used to flying trainers, the UCD will feel like a "big plane". Big planes are easier to handle because they are not as easily knocked around by the wind.

Your last question about balancing. A lot of people use the great planes balancer which I heard works well. I've always used my fingers which are not perfect, but are good enough for me. I'd recommend using a CG that is closer to the front of the range ~5" until you learn how to fly this bird. After you've honed your skills a bit move it back a 1/4" at a time. At one time mine was at 6.25", but since I replaceed my cowl it's back closer to 6. Flys great for me at 6 and thats where I'm keeping mine.

If anyone is interested, I am going to get rid of my Cline regulator. I used it maybe a dozen times. Comes with the Tee's and a brand new Fourmost Check Valve...you can PM me...I am thinking like $40 +ship.

I want your CAP-X

That is priced to move. Question, Formost check valve, fill me in please. Joe

The Cline comes with a Check Valve, IMO it sucks for the $60 price tag. So, Fourmost makes NICE check valves for Glow and Gas use. I have two of them, one I used with this Cline and one NIB...For a few bucks more I would throw in both, I was just going to keep it around in case I ever had a need for it (pack rat syndrome)...

I'm getting rid of the UCD60 too, I'll price that sucker to move also....

Could you tell me where to look for a Formost check valve? Thanks, Joe

www.fourmost.com, far as I know. That's where I ordered it from.

Thanks, Joe

hi guys i am new too in a 4 strokes and i have a ucando60 too. i just had 2 fly's with this plane, but i have the problem of flooding, i see that you have named a " cline " for prevent this, im am in mexico, some one can helpme to explain me what is a cline, and what i have to do for prevent the flooding? thanks a lot!

Luise, there is a good explaination in post #2275 on page #76. Check it out and we can fill you in with more details. Joe

Okay, here is the second mod of the stock rudder. It is now less 10 sq.in. from the first reduction of 19 sq. in. now totalling 29 sq. in. of area removed. This will be the last mod of the stock rudder and results will play a big factor in the new design. The 10 sq. in. was removed from the upper trailing edge, angled down to the lower trailing edge. The first reduction from the top eliminated opposite wing drop when rudder is applied and lessened the dive to the wheels somewhat. I'm curious to see if this mod will effect the wheel dive further. First pic is stock form, second pic is first mod of 19 sq. in. removed off top and third is another 10 sq. in. from the upper trailing edge.
The present 56 sq. in. tital area is below the target area on the new design of 65 sq. in. Hopefully the rain will let up enough to test it tonight. Untill then.......Joe

looks good Joe. Keep us updated!



mat

Joe ...

...the UCD is metamorphosing...into...into...something like....a....a...Cyc...Cyclone..

...watching with interest Joe..

Does the cyclone have good knife edge flight.. staight and true?

Like Novaflyer I also use the Fourmost checkvalve instead of the crappy one that comes with the Cline. You can get it at Tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXG869&P=ML

Interesting to know how your modified rudder is going to work out. I flew my UCD last night and finally after tweaking it a bit after each flight was able to get 99% of the knife edge coupling worked out via mixing on my 9C. It does a great knife edge now.

Hi joe, now i know whats is a Cline.... but i have problem i live in a small city, for us it's difficult to buy this kind of products, but not imposible...., ok, i see you are a expert on the u can do i think you can help me too much. I buy a u cando 60, i have a magnum 91 4S ( i know it's not a good option for the plane... but it's the only one i have..[]), i have a magic 3d, and when i fly the u cando i open my closet and i put in my magic jejeje it's a great plane!... ok now i have a big trouble, my engine does not work good, i put a 14X6 prop, and i use 15% fuel, i buy today a APC 14X4 and a 15X4, i will try wich works better... but my great problem its' the line fuel from the tank to the carb, the tanks it's higher than the carb inlet and when i fill the tank the fuel flows to the engine and this cause me flooding( it this term is correct? sorry but i not good for speak english) and its a nightmare to start the engine, and when it start i try to keep it the more stable in rpm in ground, but when it take off, the rpm go higer and lower i think about 1500 rpm. but when i fly inverted the engine sounds good its very stable in the rpms.

1st Q: What i can do for this??
2nd Q: Wich prop you recomend me for the magnum 91 4S?
3rd Q: Where is the best position for the C.G.?

Thanks a lot!!

Luis E. Castillo.