Yeah a lot say the 150 would be overkill but I want 3D power... I don't fly planes with recommended power because its only enough to fly the plane. The YS110 is popular but I am not going with YS because I don't want to mess with it since everyone says they are finicky(sp).

However, I just want to know if the engine would cause it to snap because I dont see how the weight of the engine would cause a plane to snap if it is balanced properly

are there any videos that actually work?

thanks

Just purchases one of these from Chief. Should be here in 5 days. I cant wait, got 3 5645's for the ailerons and rudder and then 2 6635's for the elevators. All Hitecs. An R770 reciever a NoBS 1950 battery and a Fromeco blue anodized switch. I will run a saito 100. Does it fly better with a 16X4 or 15X6?

Gonna try to read through the thread. Hope it is as great as the Funtana 90 I am replacing.

If you are flying 3D I would highly recommend the Saito 125 or YS110. I am flying a Saito 100 with a 15X6 for pattern and it is fine but my 3D friends have flown my plane and say that the power is marginal for 3D.

Hello, SuperD How's your Showtime flying on EVO 26. (weight , perfomance CG)

I am ready to install the stab, I understand there are some comments/complaints on this..... what are the issues and is there a solution I can just use now to save re-working it later?

Mac

Hello, SuperD How's your Showtime flying on EVO 26. (weight , perfomance CG) Thinking of trading my Evo 100 2- stroke which I bought for ShowTime for this gaser.If you show pictures of your engine set up I'd really appreciate it.

videos?

I would go ahead and epoxy the stabs on. Mine became very loose after only a few flights.

what are you epoxing? just the tube in each half? to the fuse? or both?

Mac

I marked out the stab on the fuse and cut out the covering. I epoxied the tubes in the stab and the fuse and the stabs to the fuse. Solid as a Rock.

Mac... My stab tube got loose after about 10 flts, pins looked ok.. So I Gorilla glued
(I'm starting to love this stuff) them in same as bigal422...
Ohh I also used loc-tite on the screws
Some say it's good to check the incidence before gluing them on..... I was going to do
that... But the member that had the meter was on vacation.... So.... I eye balled it...
All seems to be good......... No problems to date after 45 flts.........

Evo 26 made it fly like a foamy, Mine was nose heavy, and heavy. I have traded the evo for a 2 meter patternship. I'm either going to put a Saito 125 or an OS 120 AX.
I didnt fly it a lot with the Evo because it would shake very bad from idle to ~3500 rpm's.
I think the saito 125 would be the perfect engine .

Several folks have asked that I post pictures of my ST with the OS 120AX installed. As you can see the engine is mounted sideways and using the 90 degree pitts adapter. Though I don't like the engine sticking out the side the performance makes up for it, I previously had it mounted inverted with bisson pitts style but performance was effected by 600RPM. The Powerbox muffler fits the cowl and plane width perfectly and has no drag hanging out the bottom except the exhaust extension. I trimmed excess to supply better ventalation.

I appologize for the poor image quality they are taken from a mobile phone

Follow-up on my previous posts: throttle response and transition were GREATLY improved by using the stock Powerbox muffler, save yourself the money and forget about the after market Bisson especially on this plane since the thing is huge and won't fit inside the cowl without mods to the muffler.

guys:

The DHL guy brought my showtime all the way out here to Cyprus and the only bad thing I can find is I need to iron the covering a bit. I'm workin pretty hard on it now, but am having some trouble. When I moved to Cyprus from Indiana, I started to rebuild my collection of hobby tools etc, but being in Europe, I have been getting metric tools -- sheesh I never in my wildest thought I would ever say it, but man I wish this arf came with metric hardware.

I have a slightly (we'll see) used YS 110 FZ I just got as well, but it only came with a pitts muffler -- It doesn't quite fit -- almost, but not there -- maybe about 1/4" or so -- I am going to see how far out I can make the spinner stick out. Probably going to have to put a servo in the tail because of it. I'll be checking incidence as soon as I get the stabs put on. So far, I have 5 X Hitec 5645's, YS 110 with pitts, TBM li-ions 2200, fromeco switch on the way and futaba 127 rec. -- I have also a 16X6 apc and a 16X6 wood powerpoint prop and aluminum spinner -- anyone know an easy way to cut a spinner?

Dremel

dremel, the firewall.

Dremel, got it. I will maybe post a pic after I get all of the sawdust out of the way. I put on the stabs and was installing the servos -- they are Hitec 5645's -- and was planning on hooking them up to a futaba Y servo reverser -- Now I find out that hitec 5645's don't work on a Y harness and they have to be sent in to hitec to have some sort of mod done on them. Oh well, I will just take my time on the firewall and spinner. More pics and videos would also pass the time ----------

Just buy a HiTec Servo Programmer, it's worth it.

Mac

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXARP3&P=ML

no, -- I was thinking the same thing. The programmer won't alleviate the Y harness problem, though -- I have a Futaba 6EXA radio -- no split elevator mix and if you try to use the programmable mix it will work, but the elevator trim will only affect the servo plugged into channel 2 -- not the other channel. Apparently you have to go all the way up to a 9 channel to get that feature with futaba -- anyway, I still have loads of work to do on it and I might be able to get these things changed in israel, which is only a few miles away so it might be a fast turnaround

So, they are going to reverse the servo? You can do that w/ the programmer. What will they change that will make the y work???

If you change that w/ the programmer, you can use a standard Y and plug into one channel. You will not need the reverser.

Mac

Well you dont really need a Y harness. Use the MSA-10 from futaba and it will solve all your problems with the reversing / y harnesses all together. The best part is your can easilly fine tune the elevator halves so they move the same. End point being the most important. The MSA-10 will run up to 4 servos if you have a plane big enough. And you can just ziptie it to the wingtube.

I dont know what radio you are using but, if you had a Futaba 9Cap just plug the elevator servos in channel 2 and 7 and you will have all the adjustments you need including end point.

Jpal101: He mentioned he has the 6exa which doesn't offer aileator mixing.

So with hitec digitals as you say, you have a couple of options... You can either buy a the hitec programmer to reverse it then use a Y harness. Or buy a reversing Y harness for the other servo. And Last get the futaba [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTS1&P=7]servo syncronizer[/link]

Guys:

The problem with the hitecs is not that they need to be programmed or reversed. The problem is that they don't work on a "Y" harness. This is because they need to have a mod done at the hitec facility whereby they lower the requirement for the signal amps or volts or something -- it's not the main power, or even getting one of them reversed. I guess lots of people (apparently everyone) who try to put the hs5645's on a Y get this, BUT, problem solved -- I found a JR Matchbox out here and am picking it up tomorrow -- this should do it -- I am told they amplify or filter the signal and each servo connected gets the same signal as if in the receiver -- somebody correct me if I've made a mistake here -- dont' fully know what I'm talking about.

There's no way I can post pictures of the mod I did to the firewall -- it is way way too ugly. It wound up being such a hack job -- anyway it's done, but there was a structural support that was close to the bottom of the firewall on the inside -- I did not want to mess with that one and so my pipes stick out at a slight angle -- kind of looks funny -- Oh well. I do have some of the inside exposed to the outside, however, and may have to build a closing-off kind of wall thing.