EXCUUUUUSE ME

Forgot what I was going to say........... OOppppps Sorry about that.....

Ohhh.. IMO, I would keep the firewall at least as strong as it was, YS's do like to shake things up..
let us know how all goes....

Construction on the showtime progresses. Servo issues solved -- matchbox does the trick - this is also a pretty easy way of aligning the elevator halves. I test fired the YS110 the other day and had the throttle reversed on it so it went up to full throttle and scared the ********* out of me! It also filled the shop up completely with a noxious white smoke that made me leave the shop for half an hour! I had a vent fan going, but the smoke from the YS was too much for it.

The YS vibrates quite a bit, though, and it split the balsa floor of the showtime -- gonna have to dremel out some more and put some glass cloth down. Also, hooked up the incidence meter to the wings and stabs -- DANG! my right rear stab is off 1.8 degrees. All of the other surfaces were within .5 degrees or so of eachother, but I'm gonna have to do something about that stab -- probably dremel that too and then glue it.

Your not the only one with a stab issue. My Right stab is 1 deg off and my Left was like 1.5 deg off. With all the people who had trouble with the stab comming loose the best bet is do yourself the favor and glue them in. Which while your at it set the incidences to where they need to be.

Do the majority of the Showtimes' have these incidence issues?

i flew mine today

first time in a month[:@]

had a bad take off and riped he hinges on the ele off[:@][:@]
so now i am going to put pin hinges on everything

so it is out of commission for a month[:@][:@]

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I just got mine today

I just CA'd all the controle surfaces in.

Put the tail wheel and landing gear on too.

I think this is going to be a very easy build. The only problem I ran into was mounting the springs for the tail wheel. I tried doing it the way the manuel says to and succeded in doing so but when I would deflect the rudder there was an extreme amount of tension from the springs and I thought that my 5645 would have a very hard time moving the rudder like that. So I just cut the springs and that screw off.

I am going to use two new springs and two small screw on controle horns and attach the springs right next to the rudder pull pull horn. That should work.

I am going to use two Hitec 6635 servos for the elevator halves. I used them on the ailerons on my Funtana 90. Do you think they will be OK or would 645's be better. They are digital and have 83oz at .15 seccond speed for 60 degrees.

I have to go out of state for a week so I wont be able to get anything done, one day is just not enough time to build and fly, I might have been able to do it in 2 days though.

The stock tailwheel is to large for this plane. You'll probably need to go to a smaller one to get it to fly. But the other opiton to correct the specific problem you mentioned is to just "stretch" the spings a bit to loosen the tension. I've done tham many times on other planes with the same problem.

Thanks
Barry

PS: I used a tailwheel from a Sig Mayhem. Much closer to the right size and works very nice.

Dunno about "the majority", but judging from the posts here its more than just a few of them.

The problem is not difficult to fix, and the airplane is well worth the effort to do so.

It just seems, that with today's cookie-cutter ARF production methods (laser-cut parts, jig construction, etc.) it wouldn't BE an issue.

The other major players should closely examine the GP Chapman CAP 580 46-size offering. Now, THAT is the epitome of a good ARF kit. I've assembled 30+ ARFs, and the only other one that equalled the CAP in terms of quality of build and finish, parts fitting, etc., has been the Extreme Flight 68' Yak.

Plus, the CAP is built like a tank. While it is definitely heavier than "conventional wisdom" dictates for a plane this size, mine flies just fine, thank you, with no bad habits that I've found to date. This is a solid little airplane; very durable.

Yeah, I realize that "light" is in; the flip-flop guys demand the lightest possible aurframe so they can do their helicopter imitations. But I wish the vendors would also recognize that there are some of us DON'T fly that way, and would appreciate a bit more durability built into our models.

That said, my ShowTime is holding up well after about 30 flights. I have an OS 1.08 two stroke on it. It is a REALLY nice-flying airplane; incredibly stable. But it is very lightly built, like the GP U-Can-Do, and won't take any abuse at all.

I know; don't abuse it, right? Right.

Banche... I had the same problem on the tailwheel springs... I started to move the
attachment point to the front, but then I just "stretched" both springs as Barry said,
there a bit loose in the neutral position, but no ground handling problems. I used all
the stock equipment, except for a tetra fuel tk.<sp> tk. for the YS..
No flt. or equipment problems in about 65 flights.. I did Gorilla glue my stab/wing
tube in... She flys Sweet... Added another 3 flts this morning I'm getting "lower" &
slow.. But not sure how far down I'll go[:-]... It was just to HOT around 8.. So had
to call it a day............ The Heat is on, in this here AZ...........

I didn't even put the springs on, I just free wheel it. Works great.

Hey Guys,

I just finished and maidened my Showtime last week, I put her togheter in about 3 days.
My Set-Up:

Saito 125 with an APC 16*6, WildCat 15%
JR 8411's on Aileron and Elevator, Hitec 645 on Rudder and Hitec 5245 on Throttle.
NoBS 1950 Nmh

Construction went great! All the fittings were precise, After all the reports of wing to elevator Incidence I decided to measure.

With the wings set to 0* I noticed that my left elevator was off by -0.3 and the right by -0.4 or somewhere in that area, To be honest I did not feel it would be that big of a problem.
I left it as is, but decided not to glue the stab in place yet, just in case I had problems and needed to fix it afterwords.

One click right aileron and 2 clicks of down elevator was all it took to make her fly straight.
I did place a washer behind the left engine mount to increase right thrust, before the maiden. I think you should be OK without adding right thrust if you use a smaller engine, like an 90 4 stroke.

The stock tail-wheel set-up is in my opinion a joke, the springs add way to much pressure on the rudder servo and will cause excessive drainage on the battery and possible blow back of the rudder. Like many here said before, either have it free-wheel !QUOT!free caster!QUOT! or what I did. I installed a Sullivan Tail-wheel set-up that works great.

She flies great, the 125 is a great match, mine is still very rich and I need to lean out the bottom for a better throttle up response.
No SFG's yet, as I am using it for precision practice, no need for them in knife edge flying.

Questions:

What's the best way to permanently install the horizontal stabs? remove the covering around the alignment pins and coat the tubes with epoxy or gorilla glue?

Any pics on how you have installed the receiver and battery?

Where do you have your CG? mine is about 1/4 inch forward of recommended.

I appreciate your help!

Forgot to mention:

I sealed all the gaps between the control surfaces with clear Mono-Cote. Yes, also the rudder

I also tossed the heavy stock wheels for some ultra-lite wheels.[X(]

Did you guys balance the plane upside down or right side up? And did you use the recommended CG?

First, balance the plane upside down, as far as the tailwheel is concerned the plane flys fine with it and it makes for great ground handeling. You can take the springs and wrap them around the bolt that goes through the rudder then if you want, secure them with a nut. This set up works fine, we have 5 showtimes flying in our club all with the same setup. And by the way no one ever checked the incidences and all fly great. I think this is all about nothing, fly it and have fun.

Garrelc... Here's a few pics where my rec./battery is... Battery in foam next to tk... It's
surprizing that my S.T. is still here[X(]... My 6v battery started out on the bottom of the
fuse just ahead of the elev. servos.... rookie mistake on balance..... Made 3 flts. with it
in the general area.... WoW... talk about touchy... my breath on the sticks would make
it sky rocket up[]... Hands off inverted it would climb better than some trainers using
full push... I needed "push" to land.... But it was no problem.....
Where the battery is now, I'm a bit shy of the recommended and I like it, As I said I
have no problems so far in 65 flts.. T.O.'s and Lands Great!!... I also sealed all my
control surfaces with cheap tower clear... It's what I had and useing on all my planes..

I used gorilla glue on my stab. and tube.... I just removed covering on the fuse, I
dampened one side and glued the other along with the pin.. Same on the tube, I put the
glue in the tube housing and dampened the tube and also added some glue to the tube
at the fuse about 2-3" out.... On my build.. I also added some C.A. to all openings etc.
to seal and "maybe give added strenght...
I was going to check my incidence... But no meter, and the
one that I was going to use was unaval.... Sssooooo... It just went together the best I
could tell.... It's working Great so far.......

i have the FUTABA FIELD FORCE 6 and HITEC 625s servos on the ELEVATOR, the thing is that they turn opposite directions when they are suppose to turn the same. i am using a Y-LEAD to connect the 2 servos into the reciever can someone help me out on how to get the servos turning the right way, not one side each.

thanks

Raideron:

That's a nice job cutting the YS Performance sticker! I just got my stickers from Dave Shadel -- I had thought the big ones were too big to use -- You the man!

LiL Chinky

You can either turn on of the servo arms opposite the other, one up and one down or you can get a devise from futaba called a servo syncronizer. You can find the link further back in this thread by rcfury

isaacslaw.... Thanks... I thought it was to big also, and it was the last one I had,
Then I saw that the colors kinda matched, And if I cut it out it would look good
I sort of messed up, I pull it back up three times and I still got it off center,, But it's
not bad...

Where do you get the YS decals, I spent over 600 for 2 ys110s and still dont have any

Thanks Raideron!

I have the Batt in about the same position.

I was thinking about gorilla glue, but cautious because of it's expanding capability. Eversince the first time I used it I know now to use very little of it.
I will try the way you explained it.

Thanks!

Garrelc... This is the second model that I have used gorilla glue completely for the
build even on the GP hinges, The first was on my "Do" 46.... It's working so far...
I did a few test on all wood/plastic types that I would use it on... The main reason
I used it was because it expanded, but I wasn't sure how strong it would be... But
so far so good.... For me it's an eaiser clean up too... But you do have to watch it
after sticking the parts together.... I rechecked/cleaned 15, 30, 30 mins after I let
it set... It worked for me....


JPal101, I asked for mine the same place that isaacslaw got them ... From
Dave Shadel in the engine forum under YS engines.... But they won't pay you
to advertise for them

Raideron

Thanks for the info on the decals. I did not mean that I wanted to get paid for advertising their product, it is just that when you pay $300+ for an engine I think it would be a nice touch to include one.

has anyone else put pin hinges on the ST

thanks
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