That's what I heard from Bubba!!! May have a challenge for him. We'll have to see how things go. Could be interesting. Good luck on all of your projects guys!!! They look great!!! Wait a minute.....glow on a giant scale?????? Say it ain't so Rod!!!! Nice covering job!!! Seems a shame to get goo all over it.[:'(][:'(][:'(][:'(]

Yeah, that's the salt. I find myself with 4 planes at the moment and only 2 engines[:'(]. The BME went on the 260 and I REALLY want to get the CAP back in the air and the BGX is just sitting here. Maybe I'll run it super lean and burn it up on purpose and my wife will feel sorry for me(insert big lip) and let me get a new gasser to replace it.The goo however will never see the yellow Extra in the pictures, thats gettin' a gasser when it's done[8D].
The other plane is a C.G. 1.20 Sukhoi arf that I bought on impulse and it's getting a 26c.c. when the time comes. The next project is the H9 Sundowner F-1 racer and it'll hopefully get a Evo 35 c.c. with a wrap around Pitts muff they have made for this plane. Gonna give the go fast thing a shot. Several of them have been pre-ordered in this area and there's talk of a "spec class" for pylon racing sanctioned by the USRA with the Evo.

I talked to Bad Brad and we're going to come up with something when it arrives. BTW Lou, You'll be very happy with his stuff. Just be careful to really rub the graphics to make them stick to the backing before you apply them. His prices are really competative as well. That whole set for my 260 was $110.00 total. Try matching that at your local sign shop[>:]. Most of them want that much for a set up fee[:@].

Gonna plumb the cap when I get home from work today and drill some holes this weekend...Can't wait.
Happy flyin' all,
Rod

I have followed this thread for awhile. I had a new Moki 2.10 i was going to use in the Cap, sold it on ebay. Now could use some advise on which gas engine is best bang fot the buck. DA 50? DL 50? 3M 53 from Wild Hare? Evo 45 or 58? Any help appreciated.

Balsafire, what method did you use to apply the graphics? Seems like if you use the soapy water method that it would take forever for the water todry under the decal enough for the decal to stick.

Hey sewer.
Yeah, I thought that too. I used windex but only on the ends of the sticker. After I mark where i want them, I spray the ends so you have some movement to get the alignment right and press them down. Then you can either squeege out the windex or towl dry it and use a hair dryer(no heat gun) to set the ends.

Also, if you get any airbubbles under the larger stickers, like the main ones on the 260, you can ***** a hole in them, spray the hole with windex and work the airbubbles out. The windex lets the air come out before the hole closes up and you'll never be able to tell the hole was there[8D]

Hope this helps and good luck.
Happy flyin'
Rod

Bandit01. This is a very good flying airplane. I have a fuji 43cc on mine with about 1 and a half gallons of gas thru it and mine has good vertical and getting better. I had to mount my ignition battery on the firewall and my flight battery up against the fule tank. I also moved my tank back a bit to get fuel load as close to cg as possible. All up weight without fule is 13 and 3/4 pounds.I am still a tad tail heavy but i like tumbling manouvers and a little tail heavy makes it tumble good. I think a toc53 while a good motor, may be too heavy for this bird. On the down side, this plane really needs MAJOR beefing up the firewall and landing gear mounts for a gasser. I have broke out my firewall twice before i just broke down and re-engineered it. I am currently re-engineering the landing blocks due to damage from this last weekend.

Hey guys,

I've been lurking here for a while ... very interesting thread.

Anyway, I ordered a CAP last week from my LHS, and it should arrive here on Thursday. I plan to put in my trusty and powerful Moki 1.35, which until very recently, was in my 1/4 Lanier Laser. [:'(]



=R

Hope ya'll have room for another here. I haven't read all 32 pages, but I've been in touch with bubbagates to get the scoop. Mine was ordered today, and will have a DL-50 jerking it around. Figure I may as well find out if it's really "foamie-like"....

Anyway - I put off getting one of these for a long time, just couldn't get off dead center about hating the one-piece wing. So I still hate the one piece wing, but have decided there's enough other good stuff to offset that, maybe.

Seems the right and up thrust issue is pretty important - thanks to those that have pioneered that learning. Now all I have to do is figure out a way to jig it up while building and make it so.

BTW - I am an "anti-glow" motor bigot. Gassers only for me, and the flavor doesn't matter much as long as I don't have slime dripping off my airplanes, and a fuel bill preventing other projects....

Bob,

I just answered your email. The only mod was to add some wood around the blind nuts for the wing's nylon bolts. I crank on mine pretty hard since I use the black ones that you can use a socket on because of the abuse mine takes and I really do not want to loose the wing on a violent full power tumble.

The other thing is just about any gasser is gonna require the rudder servo in the rear. I used all Hitec 5945's for mine. I did replace the control rods with titanium ones for everything but the rudder and used the Central Hobbies CF rod kit for the rudder, everything else is bone stock. I did forget to mention the rods in the email.

Mine is kissing 500 flights and although it could stand to get recovered (I hate covering as it gets paper thin over time and the slightest thing can put a hole in it) it is still structurally sound except for the hard prop strike I gave it two weeks ago and popped the firewall loose because I forgot to pin the darn thing. It's pinned now

Don't even try to reglue the canopy floor after your first tumble, it wil just split again. Also I only needed one servo tray for the throttle servo and they are something like 4 ounces each. With very little work yuou could easily see 14lbs ot a bit less

Aero bob, Don't let the one piece wing fool ya, this plane flies good. I have found out a few things about two piece wings, if you do alot of rolling and high g manouvers, the two piece wings wear inside the wing tubes and get loose. I have a Hanger 9 Showtime with this problem and only been flying it two months. Also, my son has a edge 540 with a two piece wing and i can get the cap together in half the time.

You're right on both examples. I've had the Showtime, and my other birds are plug-in wings.... I'm counting on the 'fast field assembly' feature of this one to make me choose it for those quick after work hops.

Bill - you think this firewall is a candidate for the "dowel" treatment around the mounting bolt holes in the firewall, like we learned on the Ultimate? So easy to do, thinking that will be a "good thing" to start with....

Hey, ya'll. Got my DL 50 today. Measured everything, and I'll need an additional 5/8" standoff from the firewall. If anyone has mounted a DA, you've had to deal with this, too.

What solutions are out there for the DA or DL 50's ??? Plane isn't here yet, so I have some production time....

[Edited after completion - ended up making 5/8" thick, 3/4" square hard a/c plywood standoffs, because they could be more easily sanded for the offsets needed per bubbagates on thrust alignments. He was right.]

Hi guys. It Elvir from Croatia and I need a little help. I have a gp cap 232 with a Fuji 43. My sister came from the states this week and brought me a bison wrap around muffler. I tried to install it and to my surprise it did not fit , I would have to cut a good deal of fire wall or cut the exhaust and lower it about an inch , any one have any ideas?

muffler done.

Looks like you did a great job. Did you leave some clearance between the cylinder barrel and the muffler body? Any touching could cause vibration and early failure of the welds although they look great. Really nice job!

Between the muffler and the firewall there is about 1/2in and the motor it is about 7/16in so it dose not touch, I am going to try it on Saturday to see how it runs and sounds. I also got from my sister a Sullivan smoke pump. I look up some home made recipes here there is knowone who has smoke oil in my country , if any one has any good smoke recipes please give some ideas.


Elvir.

Aerobob just got his done and did the maiden and I'm hoping he comes in here and tells you all what he just told me in an email. I feel like the proud papa. He did everyting I suggested and I'll leave the rest to him

Come on Bob spill it for the guys

Sorry Bob, I did not see this until just now and after you got it done ,shrug>. I did not do that to mine. I just used fender washers on both sides and no problems at all and you all know how hard I wring mine out. I'm by no means a 3d monster BUT...I do loads of very high "G" stuff, more than you should ever do to a wood airframe and like the GP Ultimate both Bob and I have, it just takes it and comes back for more

Again, I did not see this until now but I'll answer it for anyone that needs to know

I used the 3 inch standoffs for my Da50 and just slid the cowl back. The graphics still line up well and balance was no issue at all. Somewhere in this thread is a pic of mine on the inside. It's not pretty but it works very well

No biggie, Bill. I ended up having the time (and energy) to do the "dowel pins" around the bolt holes, and if not needed, it allowed some additional peace of mind. As it is, todays' "wringing" had a couple bolts loosen slightly. But that is all that went awry in otherwise flawless flights.

First - the DL 50 on this thing is just insane vertical authority. Really. Good thing the engine has a great midrange with no stumbles, as most "sequence" stuff is in there....and this is a smooth, and very precise machine. Favorite manuever today was upright horizontal 3/4 snap to knife edge - hold - fly out on K.E. Very pretty down low and at center.... Of course, ***any*** tumbling manuever is just "Cap-Style". A spectator today (flies f.s. aerobatics some) commented about how "Cap-ish" it looked. He liked the lines and rolls. Not as much as ME, I can tell you.

Second - the thrust offsets provided by Bill and validated by others seems right. Very little rudder needed in verticals, except to offset crosswinds drifting on the line.... and NO "pitching to the wheels" on the upline, either. So build 'em with more right thrust, and some up thrust.

Overall - the DL 50 combo on this is just something you have to see to believe. Doing tumbles on 45 uplines until the airplane has NO forward momentum left; just hanging there..... nail the throttle when inverted, and it accelerated out like a cat shot. The landing gear presented no problems, and I'm not known for smooth approaches. (Ask anyone on the Ultimate thread)

This is a keeper.... and by the way - needed NO trim other than a click of UP elevator, and that was because I set the CG at 5 1/2 instead of 5 3/4" per manual. I like the benefits of slightly nose-heavy aerobats... for my style prefernces, anyway.

This is a "five smiley"....

Bob,

Do you know the weight and what prop are you running on the DL50. I'm conidering that engine for another 50cc project and would standard DA50 standoffs work with it? I also have a spare NIB Jtec pitts for the Da50, would you also know if that lines up or if not is it possible you could get me the size of the port both vertical and horizontal as well and the blt spacing center to center

Mine weighs 13.9 lbs, RTF, dry. DL 50 with NX 22 x 8, stock side muffler. Loud, but ohhhhh, baby. Spins that prop right on up there, for sure. Hole spacing is a 67mm x 77mm rectangle, thrust line is intersection of a line through those hole centers. When I added 5/8", the DL came to exactly 7 1/4" firewall to face of hub. Stock extruded alum. mounts on the engine makes the engine alone 6.6"

Props, drill jig, mufflers/headers for the DA 50 fit this engine perfectly. Standard DA 50 standoffs would work very well; there a number of users on DL 50 thread who have done exactly that.

I have not logged on this thread for a while, it really balooned. DL 50 all the way, it is insane foammy power on this plane. DL is very light engine and runs great right of the box. I though of toasing those "DL" standofs out, BUT once I recieved engine and had a closer look at DL standoffs, I really like the fact that it have a flate plates on the back of standoffs(DA standart standoff contact are less than a quater coin) where it comes in contact with a firewall, which translates in less wood compresion wear. DL standoffs are very strong, but only 2.5" long, so I found in a "ACE" hardware store , in the "nuts and bolts" something that calls "wire stoper"(it cost $0.34 each!!!) which is essentially an aluminum dowell that already cut(I do not remember, but I think it is 3/8 in lengh) and drilled to accept 10x24 or 10x32 heat threated boltds(do not remember the exact bolt size, but it is standart aquvalent of metrics bolts that "DL" engine comes with). I put those "wire stoper/standoff extentions" between "DL" standoff and engine works like a charm: No drilling, No cutting and No sanding, just a "Bolt ON ADD ON"!

Thanks for the info Bob. I haven't been over in the DL thread for a bit now and was actually too lazy to go look. You know me, normally I'm not that lazy and will do research until I find what I need but lazy has been my first name for the last couple of weeks.

I was given a NIB 50cc Extra 260 from someone that owed me some cash and I did not want to spend a ton of money getting into the air. I have everything I need except for an engineso I had been considering the DL50 but wanted to wait until they got the carb issues worked out and a US dist. (DLUSA) which I know they have done both now.