Need suggestion on balancing my cap. OS 1.60 with a single Rudder servo up front and battery as far forward as I can get it. I'm about 1" behind the recommended cg point.

Looks like one sweet bird just sitting there.....

Thanks

Bubbagates,

I have a DA50 setup also for the CAP. I was wondering that did you go with the tail servo bay setup with your rudder? I have doubts, that if I have two digital servos on the rudder, do they fight against each other...

Because of the engine weight I need to put the servos to the rear of the plane, otherwise I am quite sure that the GC is not in place. I am planning to have the CAP as a 3D plane so I need to keep the weight as low as possible.

Kallem...

I only used one servo for the rudder. I used a HS5945. I think it gives about 150ozs torque on 4.8v (my setup) and about 180 ozs on 6v. This is plenty of torque to fly this plane under any circumstances. This will also help you keep your goal of light weight. Save about 2 ozs by the servo and another 1-2 by not needing another pushrod and servo extensions.

I've got about 30 flights on mine. The rudder is very powerful and I don't feel any need to upgrade the servo torque let alone go to a second servo.

I'm not sure why Great Planes recommends two servos but it really isn't necessary.

Thanks
Barry

Like Barry said,

I have a single 5945 for the rudder and 2 5945's, one for each elevator, all in the tail. If you look at the pics of my interior setup you will see how I have things laid out and my balance came in right on the money

Thanks for the help guys! I will go then with one servo on the rudder. I think I will use the 5985 then as the 5945 is discontinued. 5985 is giving 172oz at 6V and that should be then enough.

Hi everyone. I need an advice on the cap hardware. I was looking a plane for my da50, and finally order the cap. For what i read here, is a great 3d performer if it is builded light. I have a 1000mah lipo for ign, and 2400 fromeco liion for the rec. also, I have a light side mufler from jtec. Ok the question, in order to keep it light, what is the best hardware to use? (list please) or the stock hardware is just good? I search in troybuild models and they have great stuff.

Vacman,

You are basically running the exact same setup engine, muffler and battery wise. I used a 4800 Fromeco on the recevier instead of the 2400 but that is because I had one just sitting around looking for a home

The only change to the hardware for me was to use ball links ond the servo arms and H9 Titanium pro link control rods for the elevators and ailerons and a Central Hobbies CF rod kit for the rudder in the tail. If you need them I can get the Pro link rod measurements for you. I used the stock control horns on all surfaces with the Dubro Safety Clevises for that end of the control rods

This is what I used for the rudder though some people bought 2 of these and did all the surfaces and they will end up very close to the same weight as the Pro Links

http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...e/pushrod.html

I came it at 13.75lbs (13lbs 10 ounces). Mine is well over 100 flights now and the last 50 of them has me really working this plane over. I've had 2 deadsticks, not the engines fault, and this plane just floats. KE spins are a blast and 3D is a breeze

Great information Bubbagates, thanks a lot. I will ask you for the measurement of the rod. I think the cap will arrive next week, but i have to take the engine, servos, reciver and batts from my colombo extra(to much fixes from hard landings, and i wasn´t able to make steady harriers and others maneuvers).
I think the power will be great on the cap with the Da. What prop are you using??

Hey guys i need a little help, im putting my Os.160 motor on my cap at the momment and the instructions say to dril a 9/64 hole and then tap a 8-32 thread into the motor mount now this is all really straight forward But to me this doesnt seem strong enough specially with the sise of the motor and the power its going to produce,?? would u guys use this standard setup or would u use long bolts with a washer and nyloc nuts.???

I am planning on buying also this great looking cap.
But,
as for the engine,
do you think an OS 160 twin will be ok?

bump, anyone.???

Someone to answer?

Sorry guys, I was not getting any notifications that someone posted in here. I did check my settings are I am supposed to....

Anyway

AussiePilot, I never felt comfortable drilling and taping the fiberglass mounts. All of GP's plane say to do this. I just went with 6/32 or 8/32 bolts with nylon lock nuts

Kostas1, The os160twin probably would not be very good on here. Without looking at it I think that's a 4-stroke. THe minimum 2-stroke glow needs to be an OS160FX and I think the Saito 220 would be just about right for a 4 stroke

Vacaman, If you still need the rod measurements, PM me and tell me which ones you need. That's just in case I do not get anymore notifications on this thread. Currently for the prop on my DA50 I am using a 22a Vess. I do switch between the Vess and a PT modles 22X8. I can use the 23X8 PT modles since I'm somewhere around 15 gallons but the 23 inch seems better for IMAC versus 3D on this plane

Where did you bought the DA?
And,
what prop do you use?
Could you please take some pics of your engine installation?
Thank you for the reply.
Kostas

"Desert Aircraft" OR "DA" is US made engine. In Europe you probably can get a better deals on European made gas engines like:"3W" (Germany), "ZDZ"(Czech) or "MVVS"(Czech). In USA "MVVS" is now sold under "Evolution GX" brand distributed in US by "Horizonhobby".


This is "DA" web site:

http://www.desertaircraft.com/

But you can buy it here:

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...tAircraft.html

or here:

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/EngDesert.htm#50

both site provide a great service in USA at least.

First off, if you're going to tap the mount for an 8-32 screw you need to drill the holes with a #29 drill. I used 10-32 socket head cap screws which I threaded in the mount and then put nylock nuts on the underside for good measure. That sucker ain't never coming off!! BTW the OS 160FX with the Bisson Pitts muffler flies this plane like a dream. I did have to crimp off one of the muffler tubes though to get enough back-pressure for the engine to tune properly but with an APC 18x6W prop this thing is great! Check it out!
http://media.putfile.com/Kyle-3Ding-My-CAP-232

Not if you're going to 3D it. It takes a 160 2-stroke. The 160 twin four stroke puts out 2.0 HP as opposed the the 160 2-strokes 3.7.

Hey Barry,

As I understand you installed an Evolution 45GX in your Cap. With the single servo installed in the tail........

How did the CG ended up? Did you needed to add any extra weight in the tail? I like the idea of mounting the rudder servos in the tail and keep the center servo trays empty to be used for the receiver, batteries and problably a smoke system module.

Do you have spoilers mixed in to drop your lift on landing?

AirTech...

Yeah, I'm using the EVO45 in my Cap. It's plenty of engine for the CAP. I like it. I've also built another plane with the DA50. The DA will pull one size bigger prop so it clearly makes more power. But the EVO is plenty for the CAP because that combo is so light.

I installed one rudder servo only (HS5945) in the tail section. It has plenty of torque for any maneuver and you don't need two servos. My CG was made with only movement of the battery. Everything is pretty much centered in the cabin area. No problems with the CG at all.

I really like the way the CAP flies. I'm going to add a little bit of up thrust to make it easier to hover and better on the uplines because mine pulls pretty bad to the wheels. Other than that I love the thing. It will do outstanding waterfalls and flat spins and snaps, and KE and tumbles and etc. The only bad habit is the pulling to the wheels. I think a small amount of upthrust will correct that.

thanks
Barry

I believe I mixed in about 6 clicks of up elevator and about 2 of counter aileron and the KEs straightened right out. I just ran a direct thrust test on my OS 160FX with the APC 18x6W prop (it's now on my Christen Eagle) and it has exactly 18 pounds of thrust at 8730 rpm. Should make the Eagle's maiden interesting at 13lbs 10 ounces AUW.

I've got the KE figured out. I did the same, radio mix with a bit of up elevator and little RH aileron. Knife edges perfectly now. Couldn't be any better. But hovers are a different story. I wants to pull the the wheels and when you give enough up elevator it wants to flip over. Very difficult to control. Also makes pulling out of a hover hard because you are pull against an up elevator which causes drag. I think a bit of up thrust will help. At least that's what I'm gonna try. Another maneuver this plane does well is rolling circles, the easiest and prettiest I've ever seen.

Thanks
Barry

I ended up with 2 washers for roughly 2.5 degrees of upthrust and 1 degree of right thrust. My trims did not change but my mixes sure did. I needed to back off the ruder to elevator up mix and needed to add 1 precent opposite aileron mix which I did not need before, but now my uplines are straight now instead of pulling left and to the gear.

Coming out of a hover is no problem now

All my 5945's have gotten sloppy so it's time to replace the gears. I'll be replacing them with 5955's (can you saw overkill [sm=bananahead.gif]) everywhere then doing the gears and putting them in my Christen Eagle.

I used the 5955's everywhere on my 33% Wildhare Edge540 (just did the maiden today) and pinwheels with them on that plane are no problem at all (I used two on the rudder instead of one) so pinwheels on the Cap should easily be obtainable with the 5955 on the rudder

So when I install the BCMA 40cc you think I should go with the 2 degrees of up thrust? What about the right thrust? Leave it in?

Al,

I would install it as usual then adjust later. The type and pitch of prop will also cause this issue so of you are planning on changing the prop after the engine breaks in them you can either added the thrust now or wait until you change the prop.

Maybe I should explain why I have so much up thrust. When I was using a PT models 22x8 it would pull to the gear and left on uplines. I added one degree of each (right and up thrust) which was dead on for my needs. I then swapped out to a Vess 22A and since this prop moves much more air I needed more up thrust as it started pulling to the gear again so I added another washer to the bottom mounts. Now it goes straight up again and will not be a problem since I'm staying with the Vess prop

I am also one who will run though a trim chart from the top down. Because of this my mixes are very small. I only have 3% of up elevator at 3D deflection and now 1% of opposite aileron. Before I changed the CG, wing incedence and now the thrust angles, I had something like 10% up and no aileron.

I have roughly 3% down elevator mixed into the last 2 clicks of the throttle to get nice straight downline and just 2 clicks of aileron trim and no elevator trim.

Yep, call me anal, yep call me nuts, but I have a very predictable plane that does exactly what I want and how I want it. I do this to all my planes and those that I let fly them love them

BTW, you do not need flaps on this plane to slow it down. At just under 14lbs on mine, it floats and floats and floats....I had to lower the idle to land this thing with the Vess prop