Capiche 50
#3827
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Thanks Jimbo! Well, I am totally low at the moment. I did one elevator half but I used some wrong thicknss wood without realising it!!! It hasn't made it weaker in anyway but there might be a slight weight difference I dont know, shouldnt be a prob.
I am fiddling around with the front end sorting out tank height in realtion to the carb intake etc.
I still cant start on the wing until I get a table and board and things to stick pins in.
All good fun though!
Shahid
I am fiddling around with the front end sorting out tank height in realtion to the carb intake etc.
I still cant start on the wing until I get a table and board and things to stick pins in.
All good fun though!
Shahid
#3828
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
i have my own ideas about tank height... the top of the tank should be level with the carb..
reason is if the half way is on the jet for the first half your being force fed, the rest the engines sucking hard.. at least below it has to suck all flight and shouldn't really change.
have you also noticed how all trainers despite the instructions about this have the tank well below the carb.
reason is if the half way is on the jet for the first half your being force fed, the rest the engines sucking hard.. at least below it has to suck all flight and shouldn't really change.
have you also noticed how all trainers despite the instructions about this have the tank well below the carb.
#3829
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Kent, UNITED KINGDOM
Shahid,
When you come to fit the tailplane. Make sure that you fit it at the front of the slot and not the BACK like i did. I now have to cut a slot in the fuz for the elevator wire. AAAAAAAAHHHH how annoyed was I.
Thank god. My plane is totally covered, tank and engine mount fitted, only have to fit the control surfaces and radio gear.
Thats a good point Phillybaby well my tank is roughly on the centre line now.
When you come to fit the tailplane. Make sure that you fit it at the front of the slot and not the BACK like i did. I now have to cut a slot in the fuz for the elevator wire. AAAAAAAAHHHH how annoyed was I.
Thank god. My plane is totally covered, tank and engine mount fitted, only have to fit the control surfaces and radio gear.
Thats a good point Phillybaby well my tank is roughly on the centre line now.
#3830
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Thanks for tip bob!
Yeah now that you mention it Phil, I wont be too paranoid about tank height now. I am usually paranoid about everything its stupid.
Yeah now that you mention it Phil, I wont be too paranoid about tank height now. I am usually paranoid about everything its stupid.
#3831
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
the only reason my tank is high is so the lines come out from the mount center, the batt sits below.
i wouldn't mount it lower, but i'm not too fussed on most planes unless i notice a difference full to empty, Dust is only one that does and it's very low with a very hungry engine.
i wouldn't mount it lower, but i'm not too fussed on most planes unless i notice a difference full to empty, Dust is only one that does and it's very low with a very hungry engine.
#3833
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
He flys inverted, but not very low
Im using a front tank posision and ill make up a tray out of some scrap and cable tie the tank (sulivan 8oz, hate those slec ones[:'(]) one ive wrapped it in some fantastic foam. ill use the battery to balance the plane as i hate ballest[&:] went down to the model shop to get some things and remembered i needed some wood for my wing but fogot what thickness it was! AGHHH

Im using a front tank posision and ill make up a tray out of some scrap and cable tie the tank (sulivan 8oz, hate those slec ones[:'(]) one ive wrapped it in some fantastic foam. ill use the battery to balance the plane as i hate ballest[&:] went down to the model shop to get some things and remembered i needed some wood for my wing but fogot what thickness it was! AGHHH
#3834
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
I need to e-mail IH about their mount, they did give me the correct lengths, but only 3 of the bolts were, one was shorter by 10mm. Apart from that I need to sort out the front end but looking at it now It shouldnt be too fiddly.
#3837
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
what fuel proofer, weve had discussions about the fuel proofing. its heavy so dont do it everywere and also the flair stuff is crap, im going to use watered down epoxy
#3838
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
I don't want fuel eating the ply around the firewall! Ive seen too many planes crash that way, actually it might save weight in the long run because you wont soak up fuel.
Starting cutting the GRP cowl cheeks etc and nose ring. I did it pretty easily and neatly, with a standard balde and thats all. Will take pics. I have the closed cheek cowl so do I need to cut holes to allow air to pass or can I just cut the front and leave it at that.
I spose then all I need apart from cheeks and nose ring is to drill the hole for the glow driver.
Thanks
Shahid
Starting cutting the GRP cowl cheeks etc and nose ring. I did it pretty easily and neatly, with a standard balde and thats all. Will take pics. I have the closed cheek cowl so do I need to cut holes to allow air to pass or can I just cut the front and leave it at that.
I spose then all I need apart from cheeks and nose ring is to drill the hole for the glow driver.
Thanks
Shahid
#3840
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
So im assuming then I will not cut any holes in the REAR of the cheeks, sounds funny though, I guess the air will escape some how through the gloe hole, or exhaust hole thingy bob.
#3843
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Yeah I could do the D thing but cutting out the ends in the cheeks would be neater.
What do you guys think> D shap hole on bottom or open out cheeks?
What do you guys think> D shap hole on bottom or open out cheeks?
#3844
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
as you can see in these pics i have the cheeks cut at the rear, also at the front. and a O around the pipe which then leads all the way back a little thinner so i can take the cowl off with the pipe in place. so more of a lollypop shape.
unlike the D it doesn't really show and to me looks better.
unlike the D it doesn't really show and to me looks better.
#3845
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
That settles it, going to cut out the back end of the cheeks. Watered down epoxy sounds interesting, its def fuel resistant but when I get to covering would the covereing be lumpy where Ive epoxied? I plan to fuel proof firewall, around the side front and bottom and top front.
Cheers.
Berite Barnstormer.
Cheers.
Berite Barnstormer.
#3847
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
trying to cover the tank bay lol. that would be fun
Ill just cover my firewal, looks neeter and less hassel of waiting for the proofer to dry
Ill just cover my firewal, looks neeter and less hassel of waiting for the proofer to dry
#3848
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Well I cant see how I can get that epoxy inside now, Ill leave that for my next capiche, fuel proof, put nuts in etc THEN put it together.
Film can work and I plane to flim it but if fuel gets in the seams im am buggared, prymol is that ply/film adhesive thing right?
Well for now I will take a break, cowl cheeks fully cut, I will do the nose wing later but for now I drilled a small hole in it.
Film can work and I plane to flim it but if fuel gets in the seams im am buggared, prymol is that ply/film adhesive thing right?
Well for now I will take a break, cowl cheeks fully cut, I will do the nose wing later but for now I drilled a small hole in it.
#3849
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
no, this stuff is a clear liquid you brush on afterwards, it comes in a metal tin with a purple label, the orange label is something else but i forget....
fuel proofing is still doable, just put the brush in through the fuz sides and bottom, i'd still use the propper stuff over expoy.
fuel proofing is still doable, just put the brush in through the fuz sides and bottom, i'd still use the propper stuff over expoy.
#3850
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: London, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS
Ok, well Ill go for the proper stuff, I dont mind the drying time, I'll probably have the pics of the Capiche in its current dodgy state and cowl job tomorrow. Trying to fit that cowl over the fuz upto the point it shows in the plan is a bit iffy, a real tight fit!
Things to do are:
-Fuel proof, reinforce front end
-Fill gaps front end
-Wait for bolts from IH
-Install engine mount and engine
-Sort out tank height in relation to carb intake
-Use the 20 metres of bubble wrap I have (not lying here) to jam everything together
-Try to figure where how the hell am I going to get a throttle run going, I couldnt find the throttle cable, looks like some long pushrod is needed.
That should do the front end then COVER!!! Oh sand and fill before that of course.
I see what you mean but I had always thought you fuel proofed the outside, not the inside.
Things to do are:
-Fuel proof, reinforce front end
-Fill gaps front end
-Wait for bolts from IH
-Install engine mount and engine
-Sort out tank height in relation to carb intake
-Use the 20 metres of bubble wrap I have (not lying here) to jam everything together
-Try to figure where how the hell am I going to get a throttle run going, I couldnt find the throttle cable, looks like some long pushrod is needed.
That should do the front end then COVER!!! Oh sand and fill before that of course.
trying to cover the tank bay lol. that would be fun



