i've got high and low rate switches, both set up as per instructions, no mistakes this time LISTEN EDIBLE
so i could also have plain bonkers wacky ooh look barn door rates on another switch??? is it just the hellevator i want turned into a barndoor? if so how do i do that on my switches? mix channel 2 into airbrake or sommit? guess i'd prefer a switch i can flick for "extra special rates"

i dont use any special mixes, or flaperons... not needed on this plane
keep it simple

not flaps, you just said as much elevator as poss on a switch for harriers. i guess i could mix airbrake ( no flaps ) to ch2 to get that, but i'd rather have control over it even tho its then got almost 170 degrees movement. i have high and low rates set, but can i flick another switch to over ride the elevator rates to get full movement, and have it controled? FF8 btw... and 3D rate on ( high ) is still under 100%ATV thanks to long arms

having flown malcolms , i know the plane is worth it.
fact is , i have done little bits of it now and then , with a lot done in the last couple of days. if i had knuckled down when i got the plan i could have had it all cut in a week-i'd have very sore fingers though!!

i spent £30 on wood at sandown and £10 at woodsprings for all the wood to complete the model, whereas i would have payed £65 (or whatever) cnc pack + £10 wood pack.

i am a student and only have a part time job , thats why i needed the cheaper option-which it is.
i wanted this plane- i've done it (nearly), its worth it for me.
plus , i've now had a lot of practice at dnc cutting ( dan numeric controlled!), i think i might start cutting another after i have finished this one, just incase. from what people are saying , i am not going to be without this plane.

Well I for one admire your work.......

Ive seen it close up its bloody good

Up late having to back up all me bits to cd before my hoildays!!

LOL gonna take lap top so I can do some cad on the move

Archie. I'll stick to what you say, its the amount of times ive bought a plane put the top end of the recomended engine size and its totally underpowered. I will trust you on this one..............hang on, ive got to wait to the plane is released

Philly, you are confusing me... yes I said as much elev as possible to make harriers easier... whats that got to do with flap, aileron, mixing or anything else for that matter.... JUST ELEVATOR !

I dont like the sound of your tx set up. It is not healthy to have your REQUIRED amount of max through achieved through the length of the arms only, and lower ATV. Lower ATV shortens the range and makes the control more sensitive because there is less volume to the movement... the clicks are bigger if you follow me.
Also, the further out on the arm you go the more load on the servo and the less torque you get.

If you have all that you need through wise now and you have 80% ATV, I would come in a hole and go up to 100% ATV.

Just my little opinion..
sorry if Im preaching to the already initiated

Cabane... Ive heard direct from Malc about your work and plus the pics... very very impressive... and just about understandable given your circumstances (but I still think I would have found the money !)..
However, you will forgive me if we dont actually hire you onto the Island Hobbies team as official dnc cutter..... production time simply aint fast enought and if you did start knocking out 25 kits a day I would be concerned about quality control and your health insurance costs for reconstructive surgey of the fingers !! LOL....

Later dudes

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ian

i get that alot lol
first throws. with 140% ATV and the standard horns i was getting the full 3D rate, all be it at a slow speed. with the Du-bro horns i was getting EXTREAME!!!!!!! rates so i had the idea to take the ATV down, with the travel now being 80% not 140% the effective speed picked up, i know this reduces the force and resilution ( 80 steps instead of 140 ) but i have 5kg, and if The Boy is doing ok with 3.5kg then i must now be about there. The longer arms also give me the option of going past 3D rates ( plus i didn't want to not use them ) comming in a hole would bring me back to the standard JR horns again.
Mixing.... i have no intention of mixing ailerons, flaps ect, but if i give my elevator as much throw as poss i'm going to have about 170 degrees movement, this is way over recomended 3D rate, therefore i don't want that to be my high rate ( would make normale 3D flying very hard ), but switchable. the only way i know to do that is use the airbrake switch, make it not do flaps, but mix it to elevator, hit the switch, elevator goes up. only i want control over it, so i want to hit a switch to take me into yet another rate, so i have low, high and mental ( elevator only ) i have no idea if this is possible with a FF8, but i'm going out in a min, so i'll find out

horns are in my flight box, so i can always go back to standard horns and 140% if i find 80% isn't good enough.

later guys, lets hope the mist dosn't come back

We got ie 'ere

We got ie 'ere......aha.......

170 degrees movement? What?
What speed servos are you using?
Instead of going to 80% ATV, why don't you go back to standard horns and put a 6v pack in? ( i take it you are not using one allready).

From what the Boy has said i might be able to get the AoW of the Moki 180 and bits e.t.c similar to malcolms YS 140 setup by using a carboncopy spinner and justengines carbon prop.
If i could get the All up weight of a 140 down to around 9.5-10 lbs with a 180 pulling 20lbs............... :bananahea !
Not that i would recommend such an act.

The 135 it is then

Or maby the 180 :stupid:

Im confused.

135 over the 180 any day.

OK

i took the ATV's back to 100%, same horns ( ie more throw ) took expo down to 40% and it's just about right, Choppy thought so too, the 12.25x3.75 certainly worked better in the hang not enough elevator to come from low pass to hover, maybe CofG too far forwards too, but everything felt crisp and good. Only problem........

came in harrier after harrier, all short of the patch so didn't land, last one ( as you do ) came in perfect, slow descent, angle right for a 3 pointer, blip of throttle when it was about to touch and a lould crack followed by it sitting a bit low on the deck. moral of the story is, don't Harrier with plastic UC bolts, and if you have metal, makes sure the grass is short and your glue strong. Surprised by these spats too, i have bits where the gel coat came off and the fibre is unepoxied. should be able to glue them back together. cant do much about the large dent behind the UC plate.

Oooooo, its gone strait through the wing. Who does that remind me of...............o, i remember, ME!

Oh No!!!

At least it is repairable.

Very much, gonna take the wing out into the garden soon to cut the scrap and prymol it, then recover those patches.

why into the garden??


he does that to everyone!

unfortunately, archie, he has used junior radio servos and they have a half hour delay before they move, its like having a futaba servo with a servo slow on it.

he ha

galleries updated on flycapiche..


philly... if you had long grass then you should not have attempted to harrier it...

at this size the model gets an urge of forward speed just before it hits the deck.... what did you expect ?