Is it better for Ucando 46 Saito .82 or Saito .91?

Thanks

91
you want the power
it your friend
just dont fly this plane too fast

rclement,
That frozen photo just isn't right!!! I now know where I"ll NEVER move to!

Have any of you guys had any problems with the tailwheel bracket? Yesterday I broke the bracket (the steel wire just fractures at the base) the second time. It was pretty windy yesterday and I had one somewhat hard touch-and-go as well (only the tail wheel touched the ground, but it did so pretty hard).

The stock one didn't last long, and I thought the 60 - 1/4 size Sullivan bracket would last for the lifetime: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV48

I must admit my CG is pretty far back, and usually the tail wheel touches the ground first. I fly from a grass field, so I have replaced all wheels with bigger ones, 2 3/4" wheels on the main landing gear, and the tail wheel is a something like a 1 3/4" GWS foamy wheel.

No, I don't want to live there either. Probably can't even fly a Do in that kind of weather. Yuk! [X(]

I replaced my tailwheel with a Sig 4 star tailwheel. Nice wheel and steers extremely well. Sometimes if it's too windy I just run the "Do" around on the ground for a while to have fun. It's a lot better wheel than stock.

Thanks
Barry

I was wondering what size receiver pack I should run in the ucd 46 with high torque servos.Plan on running 5 futaba 3010's and 1 3004 for throttle.Can anyone suggest a size for a 6 volt pack and what kind of run time could I expect between charges. Thanks

Thats a waste of good servos. They have more power than you need, unless your running a 100 in it.

Anyways a 6V 1700mAh should do it.

-Matt

Why do you say thats a waste of good servos and they have more power than i need.The manual calls for 50+oz-in for the ailerons and the elevators and 90+oz-in on the rudder.If i run the 3010's on 4.8 v they produce 72 oz-in which will be enough for the ailerons and elevator but not quite enough for the rudder.If i run them on 6 v they produce 90 oz-in which will be enough for the rudder and more than enough for ailerons and elevator.Plus they are only 22 bucks apiece instead of 100 bucks apiece for digitals that the manual says you need.What would you suggest for servos. Thanks

I put Futaba s3004 on the five and a 3010 on the rudder with a 6V 1200 mAh battery. This optimizes for the price. Using a servos with 4.8V is a waste in my opinion. If you can get more power out of it with doing nothing extra, go for it. The 3004's produce enough torque on 6 volts.

-Matt

Thanks for your input Matt.So your saying you use 1- 3004 for throttle 2-3004's for ailerons and 2-3004's for elevator at 6v giving you 57 oz-in of torque.And 1-3010 for rudder at 6v giving you 90 oz-in of torque with a 6v 1200mha battery?How many flights can you get between battery charges and what brand of packs do you recommend?Thanks for your help

I think those servos will be great on the do. I'm running a 2300mah 6v pack and I can get a whole flying day with it before a recharge.

Building my first UCD , this thread is way too long to go over all the posts. I want to know if there any modifications that i have to do ? or can i just build and fly ?

thanks Danny

You'll love the UCD. They are great flying planes.

Number one upgrade I think is the pushrods. Go carbon fiber from Central Hobbies for the best. Next best would be to go with 4/40 pushrods.
Number two upgrade is the landing gear. Many reinforce it before they ever fly. If you land it soft (all the time) you won't have a problem, but if you hit it hard it will break out. On my last 3 I flew it stock and didn't have a problem. The first two I broke the gear. I fixed it after it broke.
Number three is to make sure you open the cowl waaaaaaaaaaaay up. You need a lot of air in and out of this thing to keep the engine cool.
If you fly off grass you'll want to use bigger tires. At least 3".
The best power supply is a Saito 82. Second is Satio 100. Use a 14x4 on the 82, a 16x4 on the 100. This plane deserves a nice 4 stroke.
Use good high torque servos. It will fly better if you do. I like the digital 5645 on the rudder and elevators and 5625 on the ailerons.
Best mod...but the UCD3D sticker on upside down. That way when you do a low inverted pass you'll be able to read it.

This plane is one of only a very VERY few planes with will do a rising inverted flat spin. Neatest 3D move I've ever seen. Of course it will do the other things well also. Waterfalls, hover, flat spins, blenders, and just having a great time. It's worst traits are KE and Harrier.

Sit back and enjoy this plane. It's truly one of the greatest planes out there.

Thanks
Barry

Barry's absolutely spot on right. One of thee best planes out there. Very good flying plane and loads of fun. [X(] [8D]

I agree with those that responded. When I just want to go out and have fun I take my .46 UCD. It may not be the best airplane out there but you did not make a mistake buying one. Mine is powered with a Saito 100 (unlimited verticle) and its 4 years old.
Enjoy.
K.O.

thanks for your replies !

1) are the original pushrods flex ?

2) any picture of how to open the cowl ?

3) how about picture of reinforced landing gear ?

i'm not going to have "high end" stuff in it like you guys using what i got : OS 70 4 stroke , and for servos whatever i have laying around here... i got 2 old Hitecs 545BB (61 oz / 76 oz , .22/.17 sec) for ELE or RUD and for the ailerons Futaba 3001 i hope that is good enough ....

after all the ELE is driven by TWO servos , so i would think almost every thing will work there. Rudder probably more of an issue .
or maybe i should "steal" FUT 9202 from my Heli throttle for the Rudder (76 oz-in @ 4.8V - 98 oz-in @ 6V).

by the way i used to own Kangke Fun 50. and it was AMAZING plane. in my opinion Great planes where "inspired" by it and came with their own version , the UCD.

ONE more thing , my friend at the field strongly recommends me to install the engine sideways for those reasons : he said that the way the fuel tank is mounted in the plane , side ways works better. OR i should change the hight of the tank. easier to start the engine not getting flooded. in case of flame out while hovering and crashing strait on the landing gears , i won't hurt the 4 stroke heads.
but i'm not crazy about his idea , that won't look that great through the cowl ...

i change the location of my tank
i lowered as much as i could

Don't skimp on the push rods or the rudder servo. I think I have Hitec 645's on the Rudder & Ailerons and 465's on the elevator. Not the best but I had them available so I used them. Seems to work ok for me. Suggestion: use what you have. You can always upgrade. I have my Saito 100 mounted inverted and I also have a 14 oz tank. I just had to make the opening bigger to fit. Never had a problem drawing fuel. As for the landing gear here is my take. I have knocked it off maybe 3-4 times in 4 years. The main problem was the field I used to fly on. Many mole holes etc. I actually knocked it off on take off. Its been over a year since the last time. If you knock it off from the standard install you get no damage to the fuselage. You just epoxy it back in. On the other hand the more you beef it up the more damage you'll do when you knock it off. Trust me you will knock it off unless you install a spring wire gear of some sort. Plus beefing up adds weight.
When you cut your cowl add fiber glass inside around the narrow and weak areas.
I hope this is of some help.
K.O.

I have Futaba 3151 on ailerons and elevators, and 3152 on rudder, 3001 on throttle. I find the original horns and pushrods quite OK, except for the rudder. I have upgraded the rudder horn to a much more rigid horn, and the pushrod is a 6mm carbon tube with ball links. I also use Sullivan .60 - .90 size tail wheel assembly, the original steel wire broke quite soon (actually, Iäm on my second Sullivan tail wheel bracket already).

I have been facinated with this thread ever since I got my UDC 46 two weeks ago. Unfortunately, I followed some advice without understanding the consequences. I was worried about the weak landing gear so I added two wood screws to strengthen the fuse landing gear area and poured epoxy into the area above the landing gear bolts . Nice and strong. Flew without any problems, but while taxing back to the flight line we saw the right wheel hit some type of hole or bump in the ground and the fuse snapped in half at the narrowest part behind the fuel tank. But the landing gear is great ! Its on the bench now waiting for the epoxy to dry. I added some balsa reinforements to all three corners on the fuse wall behind the fuel tank. Lets hope this holds.

I decided to install Micro servos on my new UCD 46. HS 85MG on ailerons (42Oz), JR 368 Micro Digi MG on Elevator (53Oz) and Hitec 545BB for Rudder (61Oz).
i just thought , this way i can save some weight. those servos are stronger then the STD servo that seems to work on UCD as well.
and they are Metal Gears so they should hold. i just need to find long arms now for those JRs and Hitecs ...

first hope they dont burn out and make sure they stay in the servo bay
hitec std servo arms will work on the 85s
i dont no about jr servos
oh and tell us how well they work out

why you think they would burn out ?

all those servos came from "Pike Superior" F3J glider. they suppose to hold there even on over 100mph dives. the surfaces on the glider where about the same size as the UCD. the speed on the UCD are really slow relatively. So why would it won't work ? not to mention the ELE is shared by two Servos.

I dont believe I personally would try it with micro servos. even though they are metal gear, the drive train is much more delicate and no where near as strong as a standard size servo.

I limit micro servos to small electric planes, Std. size servos for anything that is nitro powered due to the extra forces and vibrations involved with bigger planes.

Good luck if you try it, I hope it doesnt ruin your day though...