Thanks for your replies again guys.

The 'crackle' , like i said, is on the leading edge of the left side, about 12 inches in from the left hand side, and about 1 inch in from the front, there are no 'bits' shaking around inside the wing, so it is just a split rather than a break, the 'soft' bit is probably about 2 inches square - would you recommend me (a new builder) to actually go ahead and repair this, or is it safe to leave it ??

I could probably get some help to fix it, but i am wondering if i left it, would it get worse and maybe cause a crash ??

As before, all help appreciated, thanks people. []

I just bought the U CAN DO 46 but still deciding on whish engine to use. Either a O.S. .50 SX or O.S. .61 FX, which one will hold on better on the fuselage? Any other suggestions? Thank You

Concerning pattern flying with UCD 46: offers a challenge with the large control surfaces and high throws. Easy to overcontrol, even with low rates. Needs tight hinges, tight linkages, and a decent servo, especially on the elevator. I was chasing my UCD all over the sky with S3004's on elevator. As an experiment, switched to S9001 coreless. Seems to give better centering, less chasing. Maybe someone has a suggestion for low-cost servo that centers well without hysteresis.

I've got the Hitech HS-5475HB Standard Digitals in mine. I put them the whole way areound. Man was it worth the money. For about $30-$35 a servo depending where you buy them........ I recommend doing it. No longer am I dealing with servo drift....poor centering......or am I worried about burning a standard analog servo out during flight......., mine were pretty worn after one season. Give them a look.........




Neo

Neo

Thanks for the tip on 5475. Looks like closest in Futaba, S3151, costs the same but has less power. Will give 5475 a try. Servo City has them for $36+, will search more.

Bob

The 5475HB servos are a excellent choice. I used these on my UCD46 and I was very pleased with them. These servos have virtually zero slop or backlash and their superior holding power and perfect centering are important with 3D throws . Do not used Locktite on the control horn screw, it will weaken the resin gear and it will fail. I have alway been a Futaba fan but these Hitec 5475HB put my favorite Futaba 9202's to shame and were $20.00 cheaper as well

Well Im going to maiden mine tomorrow if all goes well..I have a Saito 82 with a 14X4w APC ..Balance is set at 5" right now..Didint have to add any weight but had to put my battery under the tank..The plane went together very quickly..my only complaint was the covering job..TERRIBLE!! The whole plane was one big wrinkle

ARF=Wrinkle...............nearly every time

This is only my second arf..Ive been doing it the old fashioned way for 18 years!!! Surprisingly the Funtana 40 came through with no wrinkles at all!! I was shocked!!

Well people, finally after a lot of messing about, i have built my plane (at long last !!) - just posting up to say thanks to the people that helped me along the way. I'll whack some pics up tomorrow.

Here's hoping it doesn't get crashed on the maiden flight, lol

Maiden flight was good...Plane flies really well at slow speed no tip stalls at high or low speed..Walls are awesome!! Couldnt get it to harrier or elevator too well but my cg was at 5 so I moved it back a bit to approx 5.5...Flat spins inverted were ok but they should get better after moving the cg back..The Saito 82 ran pretty well inverted and has plenty of power..Landings were trainer-like..just floats right in...Inverted flight needed a bit of down elevator but moving the cg should take care of that..Tumbles were pretty good too..All in all the plane flys very good and doesnt seem to have any bad habits...

I have a U-Can -Do 46 that has needs Aileron differential in order to fly straight, the wing looks straight from the naked eye, the other thing about this wing is, it is hard to tell where center is because of the wing shape, should I try to recenter the ailerons in diffferent position and see what happens? I am out of ideas, it flies ok with the differential but not to good when I start doing manuvers.....thanks in advance.


Mike Hoffman

Couple of pics

Not much has been said by those using 2 strokes like the Irvine .53 , OS 50 SX, the .61's etc. I'd really like to hear from them.

Well after moving the cg back to 5.5" the plane flies much better!! Landings are still very trainer-like..However, flat spins are 100% better as are elevators and harriers..It also snaps and tumbles great..The only thing Im gonna try to do is lower the tank as much as possible..Anyone ever done this??

I managed to lower the tank about 1/4 " and the engine runs 100% better..Idles at about 1800 and no flooding at all

I got my UCD46 about two weeks ago and i finally started getting it together. I ran into a problem when installing the engine. I have a Saito 65 NIB that was looking for a home. The instructions say to mount the engine so that the backplate of the spinner is 5" from the firewall. My engine sits 5 3/16 from the firewall. I've moved it back as far as it will go. The back of the cowling just reaches the front of the fuse firewall, close to leaving a gap on the right side. The cowling wants to install to the left. Is there left thrust already incorporated in the firewall? I would like to know how you people are getting those OS 91's and Saito 100's mounted. If the Saito 65 isn't strong enough, I have a Enya 80 but the front mounting holes extend past the front of the engine mount. I'm using the mount that came with the kit. The crabs on those bigger engines must sit high enough to clear the engine mount.
Thanks,
Maekju

In The Land Of The Morning

maejku-

The backplate gap is not a big issue, unless you really want to use a spinner. I don't.

The firewall has right thrust built into it. IF the cowling is pointed to the left to center the spinner, it is likely that you accidentaly mounted the engine to the left. I am using a Saito .91, and I had to add 3 4-40 washers on top and bottom of the left side of the mount(as sitting in the cockpit) to get it straight while hovering. Before I did this, the cowling lined up very well. Currently I am not using the cowl on it. I think you will be dissapointed with the performance of the .65 in this airplane. You'd be better off with the Enya.

Thanks fiveoboy01,
I noticed the cowl was cut for right thrust after I posted my last message. And it looks like i mounted the engine slightly to the left. I never used one of those adjustable mounts. No big deal i can fix that
I went with the saito because it needed a home and according the ad for the UCD46 it required a .52 to .70. Then i started reading this thread. I don't know how i'm going to get the enya in there. The saito barely fits. This is my first 3D plane so later if my skills are worth it i'll probably go with a bigger engine. Still would like to know how these people are getting those big engines in there.
Thanks for the reply.

maekju

Hmm, I don't know how large your Enya is, but there seems to be a fair amount of room to mount the engine. My Saito .91 fit fine even with the stock mount. Only mod I had to do was use a countersunk machine screw on one of the mount-to-firewall holes, as the carb would hit the hex screw that was included. I'm not sure of the case size of the Saito .65 but I'm fairly sure it's a step down from the .91.

Saito 1.00.........standard mount. Fits right in. Have to cu the bottom of the cowl a bit to allow for valve covers...........but that's it. There's nothing special to it.




Neo

I just got the ucando46. it went together real easy. mounted a os 50 sx on the front, with a apc 12.25 by 3.75 prop, it will hang on the prop at 1/2 throttle.
Took it out flying, i'm still seating the new engine. Got the plane up and trimmed out. Did some inverted flight ,rolls,and the basic stuff. Brought it back down refueled and checked things out it check out ok. Took the plane back up 3 more flights. Started to do some torque rolls it fell out of the torque roll, throttled back and applied up elevator and the right stab and right elevator broke off!!!! Got the plane down ok it landed in a bean field I managed to keep the wing level when it went in at a slow speed. After getting the plane back to the truck, I looked it over, the stab broke about 1-1/2 inch out from the fuselage... I lokked at the other side of the stab it was also broke in the same area. Got it home and did a detailed look, what I found was disturbing!!!
The bulsa was real soft and weak!!!!!!! I glued it back together and reenforced
the bulsa. Apllied new monokote when that was done, I installed a tail wire system from sullivan. I hope that will hold things together!!!

Ken. Do you restrain the plane by the horizontal stab when starting? I do and am concerned this may break something in the tail.

no I don't hold it by the tail when I start it.

Been doing it for 100+ flight........haven't broken the tail from that yet.