GP .60 Reactor Bibe
09-03-2009, 10:56 PM
#51
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
I y'd the top and bottom right side in the ail channel. The other two went into aux 1. It gives you a normal flaperon system with an extra wing.
09-03-2009, 11:03 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: rhd-RCU
I y'd the top and bottom right side in the ail channel. The other two went into aux 1. It gives you a normal flaperon system with an extra wing.
I y'd the top and bottom right side in the ail channel. The other two went into aux 1. It gives you a normal flaperon system with an extra wing.
09-04-2009, 08:33 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: nmking09
The engine mount patten will be the same as the UCD 60. GP hasn't changed their mounts in forever.
The engine mount patten will be the same as the UCD 60. GP hasn't changed their mounts in forever.
Thanks nmking09! Great information!
Retooling engine mount patterns these days doesn't make cents...but "UCD" makes more sense than typing out U-Can-Do!
09-04-2009, 08:52 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: 150flyer
Built mine last week and have about eight flights so far. I agree the roll rate it super-charged (about four rolls per second on high rate). There is a huge range for the recommended CG. Right now, I am in the middle of the range and the plane handles much better than my original full forward range. I will continue to shift the CG aft until I no longer care for the flight characteristics.
The engine is an OS .75 AX. It has great vertical and pulls out of a hoover easily. I still have a few more flights before I lean the engine for full power but for now I'm extremely happy with this engine for this plane.
The other Reactor in the picture with two is a friends who mounted a Zenoa G20 with a 17 inch prop. It flys a little heavier but has impressive speed and vertical climb-out.
Built mine last week and have about eight flights so far. I agree the roll rate it super-charged (about four rolls per second on high rate). There is a huge range for the recommended CG. Right now, I am in the middle of the range and the plane handles much better than my original full forward range. I will continue to shift the CG aft until I no longer care for the flight characteristics.
The engine is an OS .75 AX. It has great vertical and pulls out of a hoover easily. I still have a few more flights before I lean the engine for full power but for now I'm extremely happy with this engine for this plane.
The other Reactor in the picture with two is a friends who mounted a Zenoa G20 with a 17 inch prop. It flys a little heavier but has impressive speed and vertical climb-out.
I flew an aircraft today with a buddies OS .75 AX and was impressed with the power! I like the way you side mount it with the muffler on the bottom spewing the exhaust "mess" on the underside. I've got an OS .91 four stroke, which (according to a posting here) will bolt (mount + engine) right on this bipe's firewall after removing it from my U-Can-Do, but appreciate the "simplicity" of 2 strokin even tho it's a bit messier.
09-05-2009, 08:30 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
The .75 AX is run-in and at full power. I have two props I really like to use. The APC 14 x 6 is great for speed and general fun flying. The APC 16 x 4w is great for hoovering and extreme 3D.
I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing.
I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing.
09-10-2009, 04:40 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: 150flyer
The .75 AX is run-in and at full power. I have two props I really like to use. The APC 14 x 6 is great for speed and general fun flying. The APC 16 x 4w is great for hoovering and extreme 3D.
I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing.
The .75 AX is run-in and at full power. I have two props I really like to use. The APC 14 x 6 is great for speed and general fun flying. The APC 16 x 4w is great for hoovering and extreme 3D.
I could not fly the plane last week because of an unusual mechanical problem. While rolling at full speed with full aileron throw, the centifugal force on the fuel tank was enough to snap the rubber band mount and fling it out the removeable hatch. I was able to make a normal landing (dead stick), but had to order a new hatch. The fuel tang was still dangling to the plane with fuel tubing.
09-11-2009, 07:18 AM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: sekkenes
150flyer,
I can see you are using a mufler adapter for 75AX. Can you please tell me the part number or specs on that one?
Regards, Yngve
150flyer,
I can see you are using a mufler adapter for 75AX. Can you please tell me the part number or specs on that one?
Regards, Yngve
09-14-2009, 11:09 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8" Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as "tight" a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
09-15-2009, 03:42 PM
#63
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: jpjamie
This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
Get SHCS and pitch the phillips screws. If you use a flat washer and lock washer on the interplane strut bolts thread locker is not needed. More than likely you can leave the struts on the bottom wing while transporting.
The airplane assembles fairly fast once you have done it a few times.
Jason
09-16-2009, 10:47 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Jason 3-Danhakl
I have been using the stock provided screws. But I don't have to take the airplane apart to get into the vehicle. If I did have to take it apart this would be the solution.
Get SHCS and pitch the phillips screws. If you use a flat washer and lock washer on the interplane strut bolts thread locker is not needed. More than likely you can leave the struts on the bottom wing while transporting.
The airplane assembles fairly fast once you have done it a few times.
Jason
ORIGINAL: jpjamie
This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
This bipe has 8 4-40 x 3/8'' Philips screws that screw into 8 blind nuts, 4 per strut. There's also a nylon bolt on the top wing to the center pylon as well as 2 nylon bolts on the bottom wing. The instructions strongly suggest using locktite(sp) on the Philips screws (strut fasteners) before every flight. This is lame, but how long does this take to do? I may need to do at least half of these at the flying field because my vehicle is not wide enough for the wingspan. Also, has anyone thought of using another way to fasten the the struts to the wings, like pins with (cotter) retainers? Using pins with retainers would avoid the nightmare of strut screws loosening and messy locktite. Engineers probably thought pins would not provide as ''tight'' a fit for the struts, but it can be done. I know details, but often the source of problems is a lack of attention to details.
Get SHCS and pitch the phillips screws. If you use a flat washer and lock washer on the interplane strut bolts thread locker is not needed. More than likely you can leave the struts on the bottom wing while transporting.
The airplane assembles fairly fast once you have done it a few times.
Jason
09-21-2009, 09:41 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Hey guys, have a YS91ac that is looking for a home. How would this engine power the Reactor Bipe? I have the normal Reactor with a 55ax and it has great power, I do not need rocketship action, but I do want a strong pullout. Thanks
09-24-2009, 12:54 PM
#67
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: JoeyCoates
Hey guys, have a YS91ac that is looking for a home. How would this engine power the Reactor Bipe? I have the normal Reactor with a 55ax and it has great power, I do not need rocketship action, but I do want a strong pullout. Thanks
Hey guys, have a YS91ac that is looking for a home. How would this engine power the Reactor Bipe? I have the normal Reactor with a 55ax and it has great power, I do not need rocketship action, but I do want a strong pullout. Thanks
10-03-2009, 11:44 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
I'm just finishing up my Reactor bipe, using the recommended Rimfire .80 and 3300 6S lipo.
The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy?
Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12" from each top aileron servo, then another 12" from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1.
Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18" or 24" into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field.
The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy?
Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12" from each top aileron servo, then another 12" from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1.
Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18" or 24" into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field.
10-28-2009, 12:39 PM
#69
RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: malcolmm
I'm just finishing up my Reactor bipe, using the recommended Rimfire .80 and 3300 6S lipo.
The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy?
Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12'' from each top aileron servo, then another 12'' from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1.
Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18'' or 24'' into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field.
I'm just finishing up my Reactor bipe, using the recommended Rimfire .80 and 3300 6S lipo.
The manual doesn't give much information on servo extensions to the wings. I plan to use the 2 into 1 servo connectors. I will have to remove the wings to transport the plane. Has anyone done a similar setup - what servo extensions should I buy?
Since I have to take take the wings off, I am guessing I will need a servo connector where the servo wire exit the top wing, to plug into something coming up through the fiberglass wing brace. I would guess this would mean a 12'' from each top aileron servo, then another 12'' from each of these, they would then plug into the 2 into 1.
Ideally I would obviously like to use a single 18'' or 24'' into the 2 into one. However, threading these servo wires down the brace and past the plywood battery tray would seem to be very difficult at the field.
Later,
Dan
11-09-2009, 08:28 PM
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Just bought this plane [8D]
I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric.
This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix
I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:]
I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric.
This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix
I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:]
11-10-2009, 08:13 AM
#73
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
ORIGINAL: Bdegan
Just bought this plane [8D]
I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric.
This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix
I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:]
Just bought this plane [8D]
I have all the servos and radio gear. I will be ordering the motor and ESC this week as I plan to do it up electric.
This is going to be my winter plane. I will also be leaving it in one piece for transport. That way on the cooler days or days just needing a quick fix. Throw it into one of the vehicles show up at the field pop in a battery, beat the plane silly. Throw it back into the car with no mess to clean...and another addict has his fix
I am ordering a lower kv motor than the rimfire 80. I will be using 6 cell on it. i have a whole bunch of 6 cell packs from my other plane that won't be used during the winter. It is the Giant Reactor with a hacker A60 setup. Great Big Foamie [>:]
Which motor wind are you getting and from where (also which prop?) I just visited the NeSail site and all options seem to require 10S:
http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=4886
Have you used (or seen) your intended power combo used on an 8 lb 3D plane before? I was thinking of outfitting an OMP Fusion with electric power for the winter months, but that plane has considerable field assembly and the one piece nature of this plane is a very attractive option. Using magnets for the battery hatch will really simplify cold weather field access also.
Also, I"m curious will you be using skis or do you have access to a plowed/paved runway? You get snow up there too, don't you? If this works out I would order an extra set of gear for mine and put wheel pants for mud flaps and then quick change to another set with skis when the snow comes.
11-10-2009, 08:39 AM
#74
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
I plan to use this [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7070]Motor[/link]
For a prop I am looking at something between 16x8 or 16x10. Maybe a 17x8.
We get snow [:'(]
I usually fly with skis, and a small ski on for the tail from a park flyer. Works fantstic.
Even if it is only a light dusting over the grass.
For a prop I am looking at something between 16x8 or 16x10. Maybe a 17x8.
We get snow [:'(]
I usually fly with skis, and a small ski on for the tail from a park flyer. Works fantstic.
Even if it is only a light dusting over the grass.
11-10-2009, 09:02 AM
#75
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RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
Ok, that's certainly cheap enough to experiment. I thought you were going with a Hacker (which is an awesome choice, but more expensive so it pays to know exactly what you're getting).
I don't have much experience in large(r) glow/electric conversions in this size range so I like to know the power and instant thrust available beforehand for this weight. One thing I did learn is that for 3D the thin electric props are often NOT a good choice cause they cavitate and/or twist when overloaded so they mostly just make noise when you punch them. That would be a new prop size for me too as I normally use a 6" pitch on my glo birds for 3D.
Keep us posted on your progress. I'll do the same if I can get my act together and finish some other projects now on the bench.
I don't have much experience in large(r) glow/electric conversions in this size range so I like to know the power and instant thrust available beforehand for this weight. One thing I did learn is that for 3D the thin electric props are often NOT a good choice cause they cavitate and/or twist when overloaded so they mostly just make noise when you punch them. That would be a new prop size for me too as I normally use a 6" pitch on my glo birds for 3D.
Keep us posted on your progress. I'll do the same if I can get my act together and finish some other projects now on the bench.
