U Can Do 3D
 

just info, i have had problems with over heating with the cowl on, with a loss of power while in a hover. took the cowl off and it works good. i did have a 1.5x3" hole in the front. ys 91 15-6 apc is a good combo...karl

U Can Do 3D
 

Only APC makes the 15x4W to my knowledge.

Reply
 

I have had mine for about 3 weeks now,its big and a good looking plane,great planes made a winner with this one& the price nothing short of great,awesome rudder authority(mine has approx. 10 flights on it now) I started out flying it with a os91 pumped 4stroke,its suppose to according to the book be the ideal powerplant for the plane....The 1st flight was a disapointment with this motor(def. not enough power in my opinion for this big bird),I even tried 4 diff. prop sizes...Finally I put my saito 100 on it,now all I can say is AWESOMEEEE!! esp with a 15x6 pro zinger ,mine now will hover with no problem,as a matter of fact with ease,the extreme 3d traits are amazing,multiple snaps so quick the eye cant follow,knife edges require very little input...So my advice is having flown mine now with a saito 100 ,is any guys out there wanting to 4stroke it ,go with this setup,its perfect,you'll love it!! and thanks great planes!!I now have my fav. aerobatic plane ,under my edge 540...OHHH 1 important word of advice,you might want to replace the 256 rods given in the kit,they arent strong enough for the big surfaces,mine were bending on the first 2 flights- as a result causing the feel that the plane was outta trim each pass,so I replaced mine with 440's matched up to soldered couplers/clevis' .This will provide beefy solid surfaces with no slop whatsoever,well enjoy this sweet 3d creation,great planes will be selling these quicker than they can make em.

Steve

U Can Do 3D
 

Got mine in a couple of days ago, Fed Ex delivered it. Opened the box anticipating "some" damage, & wouldn't you know it, everything is perfect. Maybe GP is right about the damage happening in shipping, could be Fed Ex is more careful, than UPS. Anyway I am very impressed with the quality of everything, Can't wait to get it together & slap the YS91 on it. Would digital servos be overkill ? I have some Hitech 5625's I was thinking of using. Also how will it balance with the YS ? Thanks for the info guys, Later

UCD3D Expo
 

Here's a question. Maybe it belongs in the Radio forum but I thought I'd ask here first since it has to do indirectly with the UCD3D.

I don't want to use high/low rates on this model. I think using expotential would be better since you don't have to find the durn switches when you're coming out of a manuever.

I use a Futaba T6XAS. How much expo do I need if I want to fly around with the throws set to 3D rates? :confused:

What rpm with Saito 100?
 

BlueSkies,
What rpm do you get with the Saito 100 and Zinger Pro 15x6 at top end? And would you figure out what throttle position it hovers at and check that throttle setting's rpm on the ground too? I'm curious to know how many rpm it takes to hover this plane with the 15x6 prop. -Tom

Re: UCD3D Expo
 

Robotech,

I use 100% Expo on 3D rates and it's still sensitive. I suggest you use low rate option. It would make landings a lot easier.

U Can Do 3D
 

Robotech,
How much expo anybody uses is always an individual matter. How used are you to flying "sensitive" planes, have you flown helicopters. With a plane like the UCD, I find that expo can be turned way down, compared to a short tail moment funfly. I start out with 60-80 on elevator and aileron and 50% on rudder, and then take some away as I've flown the plane a few times. Too much expo on elevator and rudder makes hovering harder. Low rate on Elevator can be beneficial when knife edging, since elevator is required to counter the tucking, but only very little, or the plane snakes across the sky. Ultra low rate on ailerons can be fun for easy rolling circles, or general rolling flight path.
I think the UCD can use more elevator throw. I get about +/- 45 degrees, but I would like more, maybe it would do good waterfalls then. Also, when doing the wall, it has a tendency to snap, and end up nose up but a bit off line.
I agree, for the price this plane can't be beat, I doubt one could even scratch build and cover one for the $200.00 price tag. I still prefer to build my own funflys though, modification/radicalization is much easier, but who wants to spend all that time ha ha?
DKjens

U Can Do 3D
 

hey wingspan/tom, i also ahve a ucd3d i am almost finished wiht, maybe we can get together and fly those with the pbfs lol.

anyone think a saito 120 would be to much as long as i managed my throttle?? what prop would be goot for it?
thx
chris

U Can Do 3D
 

Wow that's a whole lotta expo. I usually start at -25% on all the controls, then change after flying it some. My 40 sized fun-fly (Uproar) is set with -20% on the ailerons, -5% on the elevator and 0 on the rudder...

U Can Do 3D
 

Pinhead, I have a YS120NC swinging an apc17x6 on mine. I've put the battery (5 oz) and an additional 7-8 oz of weight in the tail. My CG is 1-2" behind recommended, but yet not where I want it. My UCD pitches up when inverted, so making it even more tail heavy will just worsten that, but it still desn't do good waterfalls.
f2racer, 60-80% was a general starting point. On a plane like the UCD 20-40% is closer to what's needed. If your Uproar has +/-60-80 degree movement on the elevator, CG back to where it's fun (pitches up when slowed down), and you can control it with only 5% expo on elevator, my hat is off for you.
DKjens

Expo
 

I flew it around this afternoon with maximum throws on aileron and elevator. I set the expo at -100% and I could fly it around like I normally would but when I got to the last 1/4 stick......wow! :stupid:

The expo is programmable seperately on high and low rates on the T6XAS so I still have my "normal" low rates.

I may experiment with the expo at -80% tomorrow.

Thanks for all the good advice! :D

reply
 

Tom

I am going flying today,i'll check the rpms and settings & let you know my findings ...I do now I am getting 9300 topend with the pro zinger 15x6 .....Also guys I just bought the brand new Great Planes patty wagstaff 1/4 scale 300s....wow this plane is sweet,true to scale on the full size version which was just here last weekend for the airshow,elv. servos mount in the stabs,with a simple connect of the extensions ,all removeable including plug in wings ,very big,tinted canopy,comes with a 4" tru turn aluminum spinner .Great planes just keeps on getting better & better.I will be flying this one soon ,will be getting a G38 with b&b smoke system...I am looking to sell my NIB 1/4 Lanier 300L (77.5 inch wing,68" fuse)-plug in wings. If anyone is interested,shoot me a PM or email,let me know please -thanks.It's a sweet bird too,just dont need it now that I have the new patty 300 ...Well I steered off the topic a lil' sorry guys LOL...Off to fly the UCANDO,have a good day all!!

Steve

U Can Do 3D
 

Something similar, but kit and slightly bigger. Wouldn't mind one myself!

U Can Do 3D
 

U Can Do 3D
 

for those of you who are using hitec servos, what servo arms are you using. I was going to use the hangar-9 3d arms but my LHS tells me they only work with futaba??

U Can Do 3D
 

Use the Dubro ones they tell you to use. Dubro makes the same thing for Hitec.

u can do 3d
 

I have a friend who has one and he says it's the best flying plane he has had.IN fact if you see the plane in flight you can tell it is a great flying plane. The maneuvers are very smooth.

U Can Do 3D
 

Anybody having problems w/ the left elevator hitting the rudder control rod. I couldn't figure out how to stop it. So I just cut off that part of the elevator corner. I cut maybe 1/4" off the inboard side of the left elevator half.

U Can Do 3D
 

yeah, i had the same problem with the left elevator hitting the rudder rod. i just limited the elevator throws till it just cleared the rod. i didn't want to mess with cutting a notch in the elevator.

RUDDER ROD PROBLEMS
 

INSTALL A SERVO IN THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE. PUT RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE LAST FORMER, WHICH IS RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE HORIZONTAL STAB. THEN SET IT UP FOR PULL-PULL ON THE RUDDER. THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN IN THE DESIGN OF THE PLANE IN THE FIRST PLACE. THIS SHOULD SOLVE ALL YOUR PROBLEMS....
GOOD LUCK.......

?
 

Anyone tried the MVVS .91 on this yet ?

It looks like a good fit to me .

Re: ?
 

On its way with a mini-tuned pipe. I couldn't decide on 4C or 2C, so I'm going to try both. Got the extra engine mount as well. Won't cut the cowl until I decide which will stay on the plane...

U Can Do 3D
 

has anybody who has built the ucd bothered to double bevel the trailing edge of the wing, stab and fin? Or is it not necessary?

thx

U Can Do 3D
 

I didn't DB bevel but I changed the CA hinges to Klett Pinned hinges. I have a 1/8" gap on the ailerons and I sealed it with monokote. I now get 45 degree throws on my ailerons. I did this so I can execute the elevator maneuver using 45 degree spoilerons, also my harriers does not rock anymore with 45 degree spoilerons. Both upright and inverted Flat spins are super flat. Knife edge spins are obscene with 45 degree flaps deployed. Will have a video of these maneuvers soon.