UCD3D
 

I have mine balanced right at the factory specs and she flies great. As for 6V battery packs, it's the only way to go. Stronger, faster servo performance and believe it or not, longer flight time. I know 6V is supposed to drain at a higher rate but my experience is that they also last longer. I can get 10 flights easy out of a 6V 1400ma pack. The reciever has its own on-board regulator that kicks it down to, I think, 3V so the servos are the only ones using the extra juice. My son's trainer ( all Futaba equipment ) jitters when it has a full charge but that bleeds off in the first few minutes. It has Futaba standard servos. None if my Hitec equipment jitters. Like I said, just faster and stronger.

I was running a 13X8 APC on my 91FX at first but wasn't getting the torque I wanted and too much speed. Went with a 14X6 Zinger and it will hoover at 1/2 or less throttle.

The only thing that bothers me about the UCD3D is that out of 14 ready to fly airplanes, this is the only one I've taken out the last 4 trips! :stupid:

Servos forU-Can-Do-3D ??
 

Hey U-Can-Do-3D flyers,
Could you tell me the preferred servos to use in this plane. I have heard some saying they use standard ball bearing servos (i.e. Futabe S3004) but I do not belive these have the required torque (especially on the rudder). I plan to use Hitec HS-77s.

Also,... do most of you use a Y-harness for the elevator servos or do some use computer/transmitter mixing functions ? reason I ask is because I currently own a Hitec 7-channel Eclipse. I was planning to mix channel 2 with channel 7 (2 being master elevator, 7 being slave). I then happened to be perusing around the Hitec webpage and noticed that the Eclipse in facts allows mixing but unfortunately, the trims (particularly that for channel 2) will ONLY control the trim of channel two and not that of the mixed channel 7 ??? Is this true?... should I just use a Y-harness for simplicity ?

Thanks! :)

U Can Do 3D
 

call hitec and ask them to e-mail you the setup.

I think there is a way to do it by using V-tail mix. I did it with airtronics rd-6000. If you just slave, you are right! the slaved channel will not move with the trim !

U Can Do 3D
 

I hooked mine up the way it shows in the book.
But at high rates I get 1/2" more throw on right side.

So I am think I am going to use a servo reverser Y-Harness and maybe that will fix my problem.

U Can Do 3D
 

I have this same dilemma, and I've decided to go with a reversing y, my reason is two fold. With the reversing y you can keep the geometry between the 2 servo heads-pushrods-and control horns as close to identical as possible. Also, by using the y and thus 1 channel, you can still master-slave with flaperons and really take advantage of the UCD's potential. Since the Eclipse doesn't have dual elevator mix as a preprogrammed mix, you don't have the option of mixing the elevator master-slave with the flaperons in a master-slave fashion, unless you use an all or nothing mix using pmix 1 and 2 on the same switch, which would not cut it. Then they would be mixed all the time. You could mix to a null channel like retracts to get a fixed flaperon movement, but you couldn't have it proportional with the elevator travel.
I went back and forth with Mike@Hitec in that forum about this same thing. If you do 2-7 pmix it, you can have "trim" using the vr2 knob, but god help you if you accidently bump the switch or roll the "trim" knob by mistake. To me it wasn't worth the risk, and it cut down your flaperon mixing flexability. Sorry to be longwinded, but that's my 2 cents.

U Can Do 3D
 

Would this be a good 3rd plane? I learned to fly on an Avistar and have spent the last year flying my Somethin' Extra. I'd rather not go with an Edge or a Cap just yet, I'm thinking this may be a good step up. Maybe with a FS91 or a TT91 for power. What do ya think?

U Can Do 3D
 

coomarlin,

You better believe it would make a great third plane, with the exception of the additional cost involved of "going bigger". By that, I mean the $120.00 extra youre going to sink into more powerful servos and extensions, reversing y harness, the larger motor and fuel consumption, etc. Also, remember this thing is 70 inches long, and has a single piece 65 inch wing, so if you have a small car, youre going to do a very interetsing dance getting it in n out of the car, even if you unbolt the horizontal stab and elevators.

Other than that, I am seriously psyched about getting mine up in the air, with some minor mods of course :). I put my rudder servo under the fuse where the elevator servos mount, and will use wire pull-pull.

Mecam and YNOT, and whoever else wants to answer----How many minutes are you guys getting out of the stock 14 oz tank flying the larger 4strokes, like the saito 100 or 91's? Would you feel comfortable going with a smaller tank to tote around less weight.

Steve

Servos
 

I'm using Hitec 425BB's all around except the rudder which is a Hitec 625MG. Using 440 rods and clevises all around also. At 6V they're more than enough.

U Can Do 3D
 

Robotech,

yeah I agree about the 6 volts. I will be ordering a 1600 nimh 6v pack from radicalrc.com. I have to wait on servos, and will be putting a 625 on the rudder. By putting the rudder so far down with pull/pull, I can maximize travel on the elevator halves, as well as get maximum throw on the rudder,with positive pulling power to get it back to center. I may even move the linkage back about 1/4-3/16" on the rudder, for more throw.

I have a pair of 225s for my elevators, and need to build up the framework around the servo holes, cause they are much smaller. Definately using wire PP on the rudder, and 4/40 w/metal clevises on the elevators. I may put 605's on the ailerons, only cause they are about 12 dollars cheaper than the 625s, but still have the speed and power (plastic vs metal gear i guess).

Saito 100 fuel consumption
 

Stevezero,

I have a saito 100 in mine. I'm running an APC 15x6 and usually spend about half of my flight time at hovering throttle settings.
With the stock tank I've been setting my timer at 11 minutes and at best guess I've been landing with 1/3 tank of fuel remaining at 12 minutes after takeoff.
I think you could half the tank size and make 9 minute flights with near 0 margin on the Saito 100 if you wanted.

U Can Do 3D
 

Steve, I'd stay with the 14oz tank. I flew mine this a.m. and landed on fumes. This plane is so much fun, you don't want to land!! I don't think you will save that much weight going to a 10 or 12 oz tank. As far as the time, that's a tough one to estimate. You can fly around at 1/4 stick and still have a blast or all out full boat doing waterfalls or pulling out of a hover. I've yet to time myself (haven't set up the timer on my radio yet) but I'd guestimate around 10-14 minutes.

.......Mark

U Can Do 3D
 

Thanks Mark and Barry,

I will be running a much smaller engine for now, a very strong Enya 80 four stroke, and I would get well over 12-15 min flights on a pattern plane w/8 oz tank at high throttle settings, so this thing sips fuel for the power it gives. I have a perry pump on the engine, so i can place a tank over the cg. I am trying to keep the costs down as much as possible, so I am using what I've got on hand. I know it will take at least 3/4 power to hover it, but thats a good thing, cause it's going to make me keep it high enough to recover for the time being :D.
I have gone from one extreme to the other on motor selection. Trying to work on a belt drive for a .36 or .46 with wingspan99, to the saito 100. And to give me an even larger headache, the RCS 1.4 was talked about here at work yesterday as a possible candidate for insertion under the cowl. Upside to that, it would turn an 17/6 or 18/6 prop, and burn gasoline doin it, which would make it an excellent candidate for smoke. Downside=motor,muffler, ignition, and ignition battery weighs 2.5 lbs.

That would make an all up weight about 8 1/2-8 3/4lbs, which is still pretty darn good for a plane that size. They claim around 17-18 lbs of thrust on the RCS, which would make it roughly 2-1 power to weight. I'd definately build a new horizontal stab for it, could almost use solid 1/4 or 5/16 balsa sheet for it,(or 1/4 inch luan plywood LOLOLOL).

Can you tell that wingspan99 and I have wayyyyy tooo much time on our hands at work?

Steve

U Can Do 3D
 

talking about building a new stab for it. i have already done that. mine broke on the second flight as i stated in the "u can do -- warning" thread. the stab i built is 3/8 sheet balsa, with two 3/8 spruce spars, and then glued up and sanded down to the 5/16 originial thickness. its so much stronger than originial, its not even funny.
tony

U Can Do 3D
 

I've got mine mostly mixed now on a Futaba 9C. I have switches to activate ailevators (elevators mixed in with ailerons for aileron functionality) along with the flaperons mixed in on a switch slaved to elevator for ultra tight loops.

Just curious if anyone has used the 9C on this with mixed ailevators and how the plane reacts with them on. Also I had to dial down the elevator throw when ailevator mix was on because the servos did not respect their end point settings and were going past the endpoints. I wanted to have maximum elevator throw along with aileron capability on the tail but can't figure out if this is possible because of the end point dilemma.

Ailevator Throw
 

Hi Marc,
There are internal servo throw limits in the 9C. If you go to the Servo menu item you can see where the servos are in relation to the internal endpoints. If you set your mechanical linkages so that with 140% of throw you have your max elevator throw, then with the ailevator mixer you'll reach the internal limit before reaching the actual servo limit. I have ailevators set up on a switch on my Pizazz and I don't have any servo travel problems even at full rates with this setup. When you use 140% of servo travel you get the full 1024 points resolution when using PCM mode.
-Tom

U Can Do 3D
 

Hey Marc I'm planning on using my 9C as well, the plane is 0% built. I'm using Hitec 605s all around except for throttle which is a 225. My question is this, what do I gain from running individual leads to my elevator servos as opposed to just using a Y harness? What will setting up ailevators do for you? I assume this means you can have your elevators act as ailerons in conjunction with your ailerons...is this correct?

Thanks

U Can Do 3D
 

I agree 100% with Tom!

Set your ATV on the elevator channel to 140%, and also set the ATV to 140% for the channel that the other elevator servo is plugged into (channel 8). You will also need to make sure your highest Elevator Dual Rate setting is at 100%, but no higher. Any higher, and your elevator servos will reach full travel before the Tx stick reaches full travel. Any lower, and you're wasting the precision of the radio by not taking advantage of the full range of motion of the servo.

By adjusting your control throws mechanically, you're taking full advantage of the precision of your radio. In fact, every flight control surface should be setup this way.....elevator, ailerons, rudder, and even the throttle. Even my lowly PBFs are setup with 140% ATV, and 100% Dual Rate on my 8UAF.....which makes them easier and more fun to fly.


Newsflash!
My LHS owner is supposed to meet me at the field on Sunday to deliver my UCD3D. Engine will either be a ST 90, or an OS 108. I can't wait!

1.08
 

our 3 came in today and we are in an all night crash to get them to the feild tomarrow
yes the 1.08 os will fit in the cowl
we started at 900 pm and plan to get done by 4 or 5 pm tommarrow with a short nap in there
im going with the 1.08
my dad has a magnom 120 4s
and out flying bodie has an os 120 4s
we hope they are what they say and we are not going to use the stupid u can do 3d stickers
they make that plane so ugly it ant funny

philip mcleod
gary mcleod
tim gladney

from river city raido controllers out of louisville kentucky

U Can Do 3D
 

3dintheair,
I'm VERY interested to hear how that OS 108 works out in a UCDDDD. :)

Are you going to use the stock muffler? Or something lighter?

U Can Do 3D
 

im going with the stock one

philip

No Y harness
 

I tried using a Y harness, but you really need the elevator servos going in different directions so that the pushrods are on the same side of the servo. Otherwise you will get too much differential throw. I plugged into receiver slot 2 and 7. Then, using my 8U, I used Pmix to link them with trim function on. The downside is that you have to do all mixing programs twice (rudder to elevator and then rudder to channel 7).

Rick

U Can Do 3D
 

I tried using the standard setup on mine, But I was getting 1/2" more throw on my right side. I have a Jr 783 w/ 6 chan reciever, and I didn't want to lose my spoilerons and flapperons, mixing, so I just used a servo reverser Y harness. worked great. Now my linkages are geometricly the same.

Thunder Tiger 91 Four Stroke Combo Problem
 

Has anyone had a problem with fuel flooding the carb? The stock location of my TT FS 91 carb is well below the fuel tank, PERIOD. The engine of course doesn't like this setup. I was wondering if GP realized this when they designed this airplane for an inverted engine.

Has anyone else had this problem?

I still can't believe how awsome this airplane is. Yesterday I was doing REALLY tight cuban-eight rights off the deck. WALLS are simple COOL. I can hover mine pretty easy about 3/4 throttle with 13 x 8 prop. I'm saving my money for a saito 100 like everyone else as I believe that will be a perfect set up. And the only reason I'd go with a saito 100 is for doing the 3d stuff only. If your just a regular sport flyer I would you could have a blast with this thing with just a 60. But a fours stroke 91 provides better torque.

I dead sticked on it's third flight yesterday pretty high up and was a piece of cake to land. It just didn't want to come down. The dead stick landing was the best so far out of all the landings but I would guess thats because I'm using a 13 x 8 prop. With the engine running it wants to float and not slow down.

U Can Do 3D
 

I flew mine yesturday for the first time. I have Saito 91 w/ 15x4W prop Using bryon 15/16 fuel. It flys about 1/2 throttle. I still have some trimming issues to work on. Was 2 windy to work on.

Mine pulls out of a hover like a freight train, it will pull out but it does it real slow. I might try dropping down to a 14x4W. More nitro or something.

If I can't get more pulling power on uplines, I will swap motors to something else.

U Can Do 3D
 

Mine died yesterday. I swaped out a bad servo and forgot to put the screw in the servo arm.