Stab to fin angle
 

The complete one came along after the in the box one. I've always kept two profiles in reserve for those iffy weather days when I can't afford to get caught in the rain with an assembled giant scale. I keep up my 3D thumb work with those.
I sold my TopCap and got the first UCD.
Like I said before, the UCD offers more precise practice maneuvers than a profile. The ability to k/e, do rolling circles etc. is very appealing for practice. When it all out rains I use the simulator. In response to your email, my stab is square at 90° Take care_bob

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

How can I make my UCanDo roll faster at slow speed?

I feel like the loop rate is much faster than the roll rate when slow and I want to be able to zip it round quickly. I've tried up to max travel on ailerons, I guess the servo wouldn't stall out at the speed even so I have 9402's.

Can I fit bigger ailerons or add tips or something or maybe differential to take
some drag out, I'm 90 degrees equal travel all over.

Mel.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

try to mix in aeilevators this may help you at slow speeds

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Oooh yeah. This is my first real split elevator plane. I didn't know how to get the tail to mix on my JR388S. I ended up zeroing the travel adjust on the gear channel and mixing 100% reversed elevator into the gear for the other elv half. There must be a better way to do it! I'll have a play.

While Im here is there a nice pipe which will go on a 91FX that will hide in that cutout in the fuz without the manifold showing. without too much undesirable effects on the engine. I'm ok with the silencer but it just looks a bit ugly.

Mel.

RE: Re: knife edge coupling
 

Hroachen, I knew I saw this post somewhere. Are U still flying the UCD with the sawed off rudder? I'm putting together #3 and 4 right now and was wondering if I should try it on one of them. How has it helped in KE and have you successfully done any more mods on the plane? THanks, Joe

RE: Re: knife edge coupling
 

I have a strong feeling that the UCD's coupling has a lot to do with the odd placement of the horizontal stab. It sits so high on the fuse that it doesn't even fall in the same line as the wing. Maybe I'm wrong as I'm no aeronautical engineer, but it just looks odd. I haven't seen that on any other planes. Of course, I've mixed mine out to some small degree and I've learned to live with it. Other than the coupling I'm happy with the plane and it's performance. I'm even more happy with the Saito 100 that sits in it.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Hi Guys,

I'm very interested in getting a UCD3D but I have the 'small car' problem !

I'd be very grateful if someone could let me know the span of the tailplane and also the total height from the tail-wheel to the top of the rudder/fin - need to see if I have to buy a new car aswell ;o)

Thanks !

P.P.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Have you considered the .46 version?

I drive a Tahoe, so it's not a problem for me, but my buddy with a pretty good-sized Audi had a lot of trouble fitting the .60 size in that.

I'll get the dimensions for you when I get home, but if you don't have a very generous backseat or a generous back-seat-fold-down into trunk, forget it.

mt

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Purple, the horizontal stab is removable. I could fit my UCD in my New Yorker by setting the wing in the back seat and sliding the tail forward between the two front seats. With the removable elevators you should have much less difficulty fitting the plane in your car.

Coomarlin, I think you're right. On the 46 UCD you can see that the tail is much lower than the 60 size.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Hello guys, after reading for long time about the rudder coupling, I will strongly suggest that before cutting or making any kind of mods it is better to check if the model surfaces are straight, my UCANDO flew fine from the beginning without rudder coupling or some times just a little but was due to the high wind, so even if it is an ARF it has to be right!, so measure distances and angles, this is based on may experience with mine.
Good luck and happy flying

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

apereira,
Where is your C of G located?
I suspect if it is at the recommended there will be less coupling. Most pilots are now going with 6.25" however.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

after reading many pages of this monster thread and seeing one in action I have decided my Saito 91 needs a new home in the 60 size ucando. I was so close to getting one today at Towers scratch and dent sale but got beat to it.

Anyone know a place where they are cheap? Id love to find one used but thats hard as hardly anyone ever sells theirs.

matt :)

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

There is a classified for one at 175 right now. Just click on the link at the top or bottom of the page.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

What I can see is that for those with their fuel tank at the stock location, the cg can go further aft i.e. 6 1/8" to 6 1/4", while for those with their tank at cg, the cg goes back a little less i.e. 5 3/4". Just my observation.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

rajul, I have my tank at the cg, and am balanced at 6 1/4" it fly's great with this setup. I am thinking of going back a little more. The only downside is a deadstick landing. It wants to balloon a little when it gets in ground effect. The upside is better tumbles and easier hovering and torque rolls.
BTW saito 100 w Cline regulator apc 16-4 w prop is awesome!!!


Dave

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I"m running a 100 saito, the tank on the cg, and ballanced at 6 1/4 3d is awsome but it won't fly anything precision cause it's so touchy. I'd say it's on the edge of being out of control. I'm using an Iron Bay regulator. The heck with the Cline regulator at 60 bucks! get the Iron Bay for 42.oo. it's twice the product. I have no relationship with Iron Bay. I'm just impressed with the product

I love my UCD

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Kram-RCU & Flyfalcons,

Thanks for your replies. I already have a few .40-.46 size planes and really wanted to move up to something bigger, esp. considering the UCD3D's benign slow-speed handling. There's also some ego thing involved here too ;o)

The removable tailplane is very usefull, no doubt it's a pain to keep diconnecting/reconnecting the elevator clevises but if it gets it to the patch that's what counts.

Would still be very grateful for the tailplane span and rudder height dimensions if someone could oblige.

Cheers

P.P.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I got my CG to 6-1/8" by putting a 1400 mA battery right behind the wing well. Anything (even 1/8") beyond that is just too twitchy for me.

Dang! I forgot the tailfeather dimensions. Stay tuned for a coupla hours.

mt

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

If it's like my 60 size at 6'' back hovers great there and slow flight landings you need to feed lots down to keep it level. It feels weird there I moved it up a little until I get better with it. Steve pro bro #429

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Tailfeather Dimensions:

Ground to top of Rudder: 16 inches

Width: 22-5/8 inches

And, by the way: up front, ground to top o' canopy: 18 inches. You could take 3" off that by leaving the canopy off. I don't think it adds much to appearance anyway.

mt

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Yeah, landing the first few times with the CG back was interesting. An empty fuel tank pushes the CG back in late flight. Of course, the thing WON'T tip stall, but floating past the runway with nose in the air at 10 mph does tend to bring out the catcalls from the peanut gallery.

For all ye warbird flyers (like me) who have problems landing that slow, or pushing so much down elevator, I recommend setting up some down elevator on a landing switch, or if you don't have a computer radio, just push a lot of down trim into it before setting up final. Don't forget to trim it back before the next takeoff

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Kram/MT,

Very many thanks for the dimensions - much appreciated.

I just need to work out now which way I slide the fus into the car and whether the tailplane needs to be removable or not. A removable under-carriage is also a possibility LOL :D I'll do it one way or another !

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

The main gear is very removable: just two hex screws like the tail. That and the wing bolts would make a total of 6 screws for each setup and takedown. I do hate complicated setups and I think ARF's tend to fall apart faster when they're taken apart frequently, but I agree with your sentiments about a bigger plane. The UCD3 is inexplicably elegant, in sort of an ugly way, with its huge wing and long tail moment.

mt

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

This may sound really weird (but hey, I'm English ! ;)) but I intend to make some cardboard templates from the sizes you gave me, just to make sure I can get it in.

I have a 51" span bipe that needs 12 bolts & 12 nuts to be fastened & removed so I can easily live with six. If all goes according to plan I can see myself spending quite a few hours at a time at the field learning new maneuvers and just enjoying flying the UCD3D:D

Thanks again for your help.

P.P.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I'm about to buy my first UCD and am trying to decide on the engine. Has anyone proven the YS-110 yet or is it still an unknown? The guys at my field are telling me the Saito's aren't known for their longevity when compared to OS. I like the thought of more power from the YS but don't want to weigh it down in favor of more power. I see that lots of you are using the Saito 100 and some are using pumps on them. Does this combo add up to the weight of the YS alone? Any thoughts? Thanks so much as I'm dying to make a decision.