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I & C Tech
Thanks for painting my canopy looks great!!!!!!
see you at the field sunday |
RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: james yeram Thanks for painting my canopy looks great!!!!!! see you at the field sunday |
RE: I & C Tech
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here you go....................
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RE: I & C Tech
In the pic the canopy looks to be painted on the outside, or is it just the pic? I've been shooting mine on the inside after etching the interior so the paint will stick. I use "Krylon" brand paint, (K Mart) its made for plastic and dries in about 15 minutes and canopy glue does't eat it. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
Does anyone actually think that the U-CAN-DO-3D is UGLY!!!!!!! ill love my new weston hype and it looks a thousand times better!!!!!!!!! and flys great!!!!!!!!!!
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RE: I & C Tech
Ugly? I don't think a dog would lift its leg to it but, if thats what gives it the great flight characteristics........ I'm jiggy wit dat!
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RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: cumn thru I've been shooting mine on the inside after etching the interior so the paint will stick. |
RE: I & C Tech
Raj, With 120 grit sandpaper. "Etching" is just a fancy word for scratching! The cool part is no matter how much you sand it all the scratches dissapear when painted. From the outside you get a nice shiny and chip free finish. The coating is on the inside, so it only ends up looking as bad as the canopy would under knock around conditions. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
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Here is a pic. Now these got some miles on them but still look good. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
Very elegant looking planes ! I didn't bother to paint my UCD canopy because I have my voltwatch mounted under it. On my other canopies, I degrease the inside with IPA, then spray on a coating of automotive paint.
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RE: I & C Tech
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Since I got turned on to "Krylon" I use it on everything. Interior, exterior, It boasts super bonding and now there is a line made just for plastic. The best part is the dry time, 15 minutes. Sure helps at production time. Painting the canopies started after I put about 10 or so hours in a custom cocpit with a pilot on a stinger .60 and then wrecked the plane. Paint is alot quicker. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: cumn thru Paint is alot quicker. Joe |
RE: I & C Tech
You got that right ! Live and learn.
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RE: I & C Tech
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Here is a pic of my UCD. I painted the inside of my canopy with some black paint I got from Lowes. I don't even remember the brand name. I didn't bother doing anything to the inside of the canopy other than cleaning it out with alcohol. The paints been there nearly 1 year and it still looks great. Unfortunately I now have a small dent in the canopy from puttin it on my fieldbox cradle upside down. CAn't seem to pop that out. I used R56 canopy glue and black trim tape to seal the edge.
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RE: I & C Tech
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Coo, nice job on the plane. Nice and neat. I see you went with the stock push/pull rudder servo setup. I went for the pull/pull. Does a 7 lb. plane need it? I don't know but would like to think it benefits from this setup. On the cowl I went one step further and carved out those little dobbers on either side of the spinner in hopes of some added ventilation. Looks cool too. Also I took 4 of the brass grometts and rubber mounts from the servos and installed them on the cowl mounting screws for vibration. It helps a lot. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
when you guys put your servos in the back elevator and rudder did the airframe seem a little weak????
i don't like that feeling but once the screws were in it seemed pretty strong. |
RE: I & C Tech
James,
I have not had a problem with the tail at all and I have crashed one hard. The tail was about the only thing still intact. The servos have never pulled out either. Chris |
RE: I & C Tech
I usually drive in the screws on all servos to thread the hole, then back them out and put a drop of thin CA in each hole. That hardens the threads in the balsa, kinda like the threads in a nut. Once the glue is dry I mount the servos. If your concerned with just the area around the opening that the servo goes in you can glue in screw blocks inside the fuse. 1/4" X 3/8" works good. That is what has to be done when installing the pull/pull setup on the rudder. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: cumn thru Coo, nice job on the plane. Nice and neat. I see you went with the stock push/pull rudder servo setup. I went for the pull/pull. Does a 7 lb. plane need it? I don't know but would like to think it benefits from this setup. On the cowl I went one step further and carved out those little dobbers on either side of the spinner in hopes of some added ventilation. Looks cool too. Also I took 4 of the brass grometts and rubber mounts from the servos and installed them on the cowl mounting screws for vibration. It helps a lot. Joe can you explain your linkages a bit better to me? Do you have links to where you got them? I am leaving smaller planes with standard servos now and dont know too much regarding bigger linkages for heavy duty use etc. thanks |
RE: I & C Tech
Diablo, Dubro carries what you need. 4/40 is the way to go and the UCD.60 can easily handle the wight on the tail. All the stuff is listed as heavy duty and getting packs of a dozen is cheaper than buying individual packs. Here is what you need to shop with the part number:
Quanities are for pull/pull on rudder set up, duel ail. and duel elv. 6 - 4/40 rods threaded one end #144 6 - 4/40 threaded coupler #336 (this gets soldered on to other end of 4/40 rod) 6 - 4/40 ball links #259 (servo arm side) 6 - 4/40 spring steel quick links #304 (control horn side) 4 - Heavy duty control horns #866 (ail. and elv.) 1 - Heavy duty control horn #882 (rudder pull/pull) Now on the pull/ pull setup from Dubro, The cone that spins on either side is a little long and limits the throw on the rudder. I found shorter CF ones online somewhere. Also you have to bend the threaded rod in the center, like a shallow V shape and angle it forward when installing so the push rods don't bind. Hope this helps, you are going to love it! Joe |
RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: cumn thru Diablo, Dubro carries what you need. 4/40 is the way to go and the UCD.60 can easily handle the wight on the tail. All the stuff is listed as heavy duty and getting packs of a dozen is cheaper than buying individual packs. Here is what you need to shop with the part number: Quanities are for pull/pull on rudder set up, duel ail. and duel elv. 6 - 4/40 rods threaded one end #144 6 - 4/40 threaded coupler #336 (this gets soldered on to other end of 4/40 rod) 6 - 4/40 ball links #259 (servo arm side) 6 - 4/40 spring steel quick links #304 (control horn side) 4 - Heavy duty control horns #866 (ail. and elv.) 1 - Heavy duty control horn #882 (rudder pull/pull) Now on the pull/ pull setup from Dubro, The cone that spins on either side is a little long and limits the throw on the rudder. I found shorter CF ones online somewhere. Also you have to bend the threaded rod in the center, like a shallow V shape and angle it forward when installing so the push rods don't bind. Hope this helps, you are going to love it! Joe You are a scholar and a gentelmen! |
RE: I & C Tech
No problem Diablo, Just returning the favor. I picked up a link from one of your posts for the 3D flying guide on Horrizon Hobby's site. Now I look like I know what I'm doing. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
Diablo, If you want to save some money and a little weight you don't really need the threaded coupler #336 or the ball links #259. Just Z bend that end where it connects to the servo arm. The 4/40 hole eats up those little servo arms. Hi Tech has some nice fat ones. I used HS-605BB on ail. and elv. and HS-645MG on rudder. Standard throttle. Joe
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RE: I & C Tech
ORIGINAL: cumn thru No problem Diablo, Just returning the favor. I picked up a link from one of your posts for the 3D flying guide on Horrizon Hobby's site. Now I look like I know what I'm doing. Joe no sweat! anytime pal. |
RE: U Can Do 3D
Has anyine tried the 46 version with an 61fx?
Hegasis If God intended for us to fly he'd have given us more money!! |
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