Sturtz, you should be fine with the .46AX especially from a paved runway. I would recommend heavily against running a heavier engine on this bird after flying mine. Just use the supplied engine mount and extend it out about 1/4 to 1/2" so you get the 4 3/4" distance required from the firewall. I used two 1/8" light plywood and glued them together to get me close enough for government work. I ended up being 1/4" too short, but that wasn't a big deal. Remember, my plane flew quite nicely up to the point I experienced the fluttering.

You may want to reinforce the joints between the wing mounting bolt plate and the fuselage sides it's glued to. They use tristock and what looks like plenty of glue, but the light balsa fuselage sides are the weak link (like someone already pointed out on this tread). Also, make sure you gap the top and bottoms of the aileron control surfaces. My gaps were tiny but in hindsight I wish I had gapped those locations (course I didn't expect the "massive" fluttering I got anyway).

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thought I'd post some pics and explain what I've done so far after reading a few posts from others like yourself.
First thing I removed the plastic pilot. Not only does he look like a retard he weighs too much. (No offence to the mentally handicapped or the over-weight intended. I probably qualify for both.)
Second I brushed a thin layer of 30-min epoxy from the cockpit panel to the firewall , laying fiberglass cloth in strips between every stringer and along the edges of the wing-mount area. While I was at it I epoxied the wing hold-down bracket and any other hot glued item I could find. Weighing the fuse before and after glassing showed that I gained less extra weight than that stupid pilot weighed in the first place. So I then tented the canopy black and threw the little pilot to my German Shepard who decided the plastic was too hard to mess with and buried it . Good boy !!!
For the elev/rudder rods I decided to stay with the solid rod concept . The only problem here was that the supplied wooden rods both broke on me during assembly. Seems they had started drilling the little holes and realized they were measured too far back. Instead of starting with a fresh stick they opted to start a new hole and grooves from the ends. Not a good choice there Suzy.
I used a CF rod for the rudder and a alum arrow shaft for the elev. Going with two control rods on the elev for support.
On the wing I soaked the two LE dowls in thin CA and gave the holes they go in a few drops as well. After reading about the wing coming off and breaking the fuse in mid-air this was my first clue the front supports may be shipped weak. And they were btw.
Also cut out a wooden plate to add support for the wing-bolts. I noticed the nylon DuBro heads were already starting to cut through the thin wing mount area. My UCANDO needed the same treatment. (God bless the two-piece wing.) Wish they were all two piece.
I measured the distance from the firewall to the back of the prop nut with the .46AX mounted. 4 3/4" exactly. All I can say is that we must be getting differant ARFs with the updated factory changes made on some and not others. Several of the mistakes listed on this thread and other posts have been fixed on this shipment.
The wing and the horizontal tail piece are the two weight culprits here.
That sheeted wing is heavier than it needs to be IMO. And the metal rod they used for securing the two elev halves is way more rod than needed. A CF rod would have been perfect and decreased the tail weight alot.
The cast-alum motor mount would normally get a toss in the spare parts box. But in this case I may need the extra weight up front.
This will be a beater plane for me. But for some,, it may be a second or third ARF. I hope they see these posts and correct the flaws and mistakes before doing the maiden flight.
More to come.

It flies great with the 46AX just slow off the ground but I think all engines will be. However I exceeded the speed limit in level flight with the 46 AX and broke the fuse right about the leading edge of the wing with an 11x7 APC prop. Be careful, Be very Careful.

Quote from last post.
If the wing breaks off in flight running an OS.46AX after all this glassing then I guess I get to use Tower's great customer service.

Pretty funny Sturtz. My pilot looks like he's got a big tape worm under the skin around his neck. Maybe I'll feed him to the neighbor's dog because he needs to be a few inches under too!

By the way, I'm the Vice President of our local Fat & Stupid club so can relate....... LOL

I tried to compare lengths of the engines between the GMS .47 and the .46AX, but Tower's measurements aren't too consistent between the two engines. I'm guessing your distance is right on because your engine is a little longer than mine.

I forgot to mention that the solid rods will work fine but had the same issues with multiple holes in the rod ends. The same guy/gal must have done both of ours. I just epoxied the heck out of the ends after applying thread.

Nice write up Sturtz. Looks like you're building a tank. Keep up the good work.

Thank you,,, I just hope it flys better than a tank. LOL

I ended up getting rid of the alum-alloy motor mount and used a Dave Brown 4650. .90deg. These 2strokes will run fine inverted or at 45deg. But the closer to 360. the better. Good old 90-degrees with a nice head-hole in the cowl.
Now I'm down to one last detail. (besides reshaping the warped LG) I need to figure out how and where to run the throttle push-rod.
The Pitts muffler leaves me with only one area to travel back to the firewall. Then I'll have a fuel tank in the road.
Suggestions ?
More pics coming tomorrow.

How did you get the canopy off to take out the pilot?Did you have to buy a new one or can you get the old one off with out ruining it? Should i go with O.S. 50 or V-Max 52 on this? Any one have V-max,any good?Thanks.

I used a hobby knife to get the canopy off. Start by carefully lifting up one of the trim tape ends and just keep pulling off tape.
Then slip your blade under the canopy and very slowly start sliding the blade along the edge. Take your time or you'll split the plastic.

Almost finished. A few things left to do and then CG and maiden. I noticed after taking these pics this morning that the trim stripe in the middle of the wing doesn't line up. But that will be inside the fuse. Notice I cut the covering under the fuel tank so I could install the blind nuts easily and fit the tank and throttle rod. I also cut a patch back at the tail section underneath to ease pushrod assembly.
I'll iron the covering back before flight. LOL !!!
I test ran the motor last night checking the throttle servo, tank and pressure. The OS.46AX is well broke in and I used a 11x7APC.
I had been running a 13x4-W APC while flying it with a TT Extra300 FunTiger profile. Wicked vertical and with the low weight of that plane the larger prop had no ill effects . This plane weighs more as you know so the oversized prop is out of the question.

Ok,, it's only lacking some canopy glue and trim then to do the CG. But I knew I better take a pic of it now while I was thinking about it.


(Or if it turns over on it's back and heads straight in on the maiden flight. LOL)

Looks great Sturtz!

You're going to remove your prop-nut-spinner and put the stock one on, right? I love prop-nut-spinners but it looks kinda dorky on this guy IMHO.

Great job tinting the canopy dude. Did you do the Rits dye thing, or a polycarbonate type of spray?

Can't wait until your first flight. The AX should be plenty-o-punch for this plane, so be easy on the throttle.

Dorky ? What do you mean ,,Dorky ? LOL !!!!! No really,,, I agree wit ya. Just waiting on an alum spinner to get polished for me.

This was mine with the 11.7 apc with the 46 apc. Couldn't be happier with the plane when I was flying. Switched from 11.8 wood to 11x7 apc and look what happened after what to me sounded like a helicopter reversing pitch. Good Luck. It is a great flying plane but just watch the speed.

On the pic above notice the wing and that the plywood is still attached, the ply did not break it was the balsa it was attached to that broke. Possible weak point?? I think so.

Well I don't think it was the prop that caused your trouble. Although you can get some speed from an 11x7 thats for sure.
Unless it was way out of balance. I also noticed in the pic that you used the stock wooden push rods,, they are weak. Also noticed they aren't wrapped or have any heat shrinking where the metal rods attach. It wouldn't have been long till those failed anyway.
The wing saddles are very weak. Same as the Seagull models. In fact,, they are basically one in the same. Same wood, hardware, covering,, everything. Even the manuals are printed the same. Except the name. It's no wonder,, they are both made in the same factory in VietNam or someplace similar. One is sold by Horizon , the other by Tower. Half the hardware and even the landing gear I'm using came from my crashed Seagull Extra300. But with a little reinforcement during the build they hold up pretty well. Even when over sped.
This little plane (Giles) looks fast. Should be fun doing vertical lines. I'll just remember your pics and chop the throttle on the down lines. At these prices I'm sure many will sell. It's good to have referrance like this.

This occured during about a 15 degree desent at full throttle.

Remembered everything today but a camera. Sorry about that. But the maiden flight on this plane went fine.
It takes off like any swept wing plane. (Paved runway.) Once in the air the OS.46AX with an 11x4 Master Airscrew prop sends it skyward. The Pitts muffler is louder than the P-Box muffler that came with it. But the 90deg engine mount won't allow the stock pipe.
After hearing all these scary stories on the Giles I had our local test pilot do the maiden. A few clicks of right aileron trim was all it needed. He put it through the standard tests,, rolls,,, verticals,, inverted flight,,loops and hands off flight at half throttle. He then brought it in for a perfect 3-point landing with plenty of tarmac to spare. Handed me the radio and said..."Get U Some !!! Flys great !!"
Final thoughts. Anyone who bad mouthed this little Giles must have gotten a bad one. Easy to handle and forgiving. Does axial rolls like a ceiling fan in a cat house. Loops like a pattern ship. I even hovered it a tad at alt. Then did a low inverted pass over the runway. Had one deadstick during the three flights today. Didn't even know the motor was dead the way it flew the whole circuit. Landed smooth with no power. CG at 105mm. Battery placed inside canopy area. Good plane for the $$$

I will agree with you that it flies great. I just must have gotten a bad one.

Sturtz, would you mind telling me how you tinted the canopy. It looks great. Thanks in advance.

I use the canopy or lexan tent in a spray can you can get at most hobby stores. It's used for RC cars and trucks as well. Testors also makes transparent spray paint.

I have just purchased my second Phoenix Giles 202, I had a mid air crash with the first. Upon opening the box this new Giles does not have a wood joiner for the wing, it has a aluminum tube joiner. Has anyone got one like this. Also would it be a good idea to add a wood dowl between to wing pieces when appoxing to reduce the possibility of the wing twisting

I got the same one. (tube). It won't come apart or twist. Your wing hold down bolts won't allow that. Use 30 min epoxy.
Mine is still flying great so far. Working on some flat spins with it now.

I returned mine to phoenix models and not even a week later I received a new one. Now that is great customer support. I will be tearing up the sky once again.

I have gotten to the point where I only use a YS63 in any 40 size airplane. I did have the Giles with a OS 50SX and the plane flew well. The engine sucked and after it was replaced by OS I had more problems and just sold it. Since then I have been a YS man.

danedelman,

That is great to hear about Phonenix Models replacing your Giles so quickly and without any problems. I have the Sukhoi and am greatly enjoying it except for having to replace the stock landing gear with a carbon fiber one for more forgiving landings.

Kurt, nice workup on your modifications. Hopefully anyone starting a build of their own will take to your mods and have their models last them awhile.

Mark