Are you using the outmost hole, or one closer in?

Also, if anyone has instaled a Carbon Fiber Tailwheel on their model, I would greatly appreciate a photo..

Nova, I had the same problem with the single arm horn that came with the Hitec Digi's......but if you notice the 2 sided horn is about 1.25" per side. So what I did was cut one side of the 2 sided horn. I went from being able to get not enough elevator throw to having plenty of elevator throw!

I noticed the same thing and am going to try that next..

NOVAflier,

On the fifth page of this thread is a picture of my tailwheel installation. If I had it to do over, I'd slide it back 1/4-1/2" to put more of the load on the rudder post. I initially chose the position it is in to prevent the springs from being pulled against the rudder at full throw. I drilled the six holes, then remove the covering under the tailwheel mount and applied thick rubberized CA to the tailwheel mount and screwed it in place. The screws are socket head servo mounting screws and I used six because I felt it would spread the load out much better than two large screws as they are only going through 1 layer of lite-ply. So far, no problems...

BTW - also shown in those photos is the elevator servo setup. I never measured the high rate elevator throw, but it's 50-60 degrees. I just set the low rate per the manual and the high rate as far as it would go.

Richard

Added info - I also block sanded CF in the area where the it contacts the fuse with some 80 grit to make it nice and flat and very grippy for the rubberized CA.

Would you mind measuring from the back edge of fuse to to the front edge of your gear? Than I can get an accurate measurement to subtract the 1/4 to 1/2 inch from...Would greatly appreciate it.

I've got some video of the Capx, but nowhere to host it... If someone can host it I can send it. Pretty windy conditions and it was me flying... so not real impressive, but it will kind of show what this plane can do.

For those of you running the Moki 1.8 & VP 30 pump, where is your needle valve set and where is the pressure screw on the pump set?

I cannnot get this combo to work. No matter where I set the pump pressure or needle valve the carb is so rich it spits fuel. I am NOT running the muffler pressure back into the tank (learned not to do that last week). I'm sure it's a problem w/ the pump b/ I can run the motor w/out it.

Thanks,
Drew

Drew,

Get rid of the pump. Why hassle with it?
I guess you havent flown it yet?

Wayne,

It's the not give upidness in me.... I went to the field to fly, couldn't get the stupid pump to work - I said screw it, let's bypass it. Motor ran great. I went to put the wing on and somehow stripped the threads of the blind nut. Long story short, I didn't fly.

I came home and fixed the blind nut and went to work AGAIN on the pump. I finally got it to work. The motor needs to be set very lean on the low and high end (like less than one turn on the high end).

This motor has so much power it's going to pull the hell out of the cap. I can't wait to fly this baby!

Foamy is almost done too!

Later
DF

All,
How did you mark the hole for the glow plug in the cowel? Is there a trick to doing this? I see in the photos so small holes in the cowel for the glow plug igniter and I wondered how you were able to mark them so accurately?

Thanks I am a beginner builder and would appreciate the info.

Tape a heavy piece of paper or transparency material to the side of the plane behind the cowl mounting area so that it extends forward over the engine head. Mark the center of the glow plug on the paper. Then with the paper held out of the way, but still taped onto the fuselage, slip the cowl on and fasten it in place. Lay the paper over the outside of the cowl and mark the place for the hole. Drill a small hole first and see how well lined up you are, then slowly open the hole with a dremel tool, moving which ever way you need to, until you have a nice round hole centered on the glow plug...

Richard

Or you could just put a DA50 in it and cut the whole bottom of your cowl like I did

Flown it yet with the DA50??

Richard

Hey thanks a lot Richard. I should have thought of that! One other thing, was out at our local field this weekend and another member asked if I was planning on installing redundant radio and battery in my plane. This is the first that I had heard of this concept. Is this common? Did you install a back up on your plane? I don't know whether this size plane is worth the additional weight, time and $. Please let me know what you and anyone else that would like to respond feel about backup radios.


S

Yeah, I got 1.5 flights on it Saturday. I neglected to replace the stopper in my 20oz Dubro fuel tank and it melted by the 2nd flight.........I noticed black crap in my fuel line and immediately knew what had happened.

But from what I can tell this plane is gonna be really nice. The vertical is absolutely insane with this motor. I'm going to program a very flat throttle curve into my 9Z before flying next time.

I will also have my Lipo battery setup before I flew it next which will shave off .5lbs bringing it to 13lbs even.

I'll make sure and share more details once I have a chance to check it out some more.......work the bugs out so to speak.

Eric,

Get the video to me somehow and I will host it for you.

When you guys sealed your firewall, dod you do the entire box, or just the firewall? I am thinking the entire exposed area should be done.....

Wayne, I am not sure how to get it to you.... It is too big to send out via email. Any suggestions?

I did the entire area. The Moki throw a lot of oil, so I'm glad I did.

I went ahead and did the whole thing, no biggie, epoxy is pretty cheap...

Erik,

Burn it to a CD and send that to me.

Wayne, I sent you a pm

Heck, I fuel proofed all exposed wood....Engine Box, firewall, fuse front, Landing gear slot, and the entire wing saddle down inside the fuse about 1 inch.

I use 30 minute epoxy, thin with denatured alcohol to a water consistency. Paint it on then hit it with a heat gun to flash out the alcohol. Then I wipe it all down with a paper towel to remove any excess resin on the surface.

Richard

OK back to the perry pump questions.
I have the vp -22 shaker pump installed with the moki.I did notice alot more power and better performance.My question is do i need to run the back pressure line from the muffler to the tank still with the shaker pump?I have tried it both ways with it the idle is way up,without it the engine loses some of its power that was gained.Any help would be greatly accepted.[sm=confused.gif]

I was wondering if any of the Saito 180 guys could show me how you did your exhaust and how it worked out... I am mounting mine as far forward as possible and am puzzled as to how to route this exhaust....Should I just buy a pitts muffler?