17x6 yes what a prop and please seal those hings.

Raven

I have not sealed the hinges on the Cap-X, seldom do on my planes. I don't fly anything very fast and am of the belief that flutter occurs from sloppy/incorrect linkages more then anything else. On the other hand, it can only help if you are using CA hinges. (I'm using Robarts).

Well, the balancing is done, just as I suspected, she balanced perfect. With the Brison 2.4 and a BCM 15degree Pitts style muffler, 2700 mah Nimh flight battery and 1200 mah ignition pack, the cg wound up at 3.25" back from the leading edge measured at the tip of the wings as indicated in the instruction manual. That is with a 16oz. tank mounted centered on the CG and the ignition and battery up next to the firewall.(either side of the engine box). The flight pack battery is under the tank and butting up against the former at the front of the wing saddle former and ending at the throttle servo. Carbon fiber tailwheel and all CF/Titanium pushrods from Art's hobby. Moving the battery back 1/2" moves the CG to the 3.5" mark.

I have a few loose ends to clean up and need to cycle the batteries again and she will be ready to maiden. Mainly what I need to do is adjust the engine, and mount the switches. Sure is a challenge mounting a switch in a plane with Covering for sides!

I mounted my switch inside in front of the rudder servo and ran a push/pull wire through the side of the fuse. If you look this is how it was planned. IMHO.

Raven

Yup, you are right but I have this crazy urge to check the flight pack voltage before every flight. I dunno, just paranoia I guess but I have all these switches with charge jacks built into them.

Bummer. Time to ad some wood. Good Luck.

Raven

The Moki radial mount will work on the firewall. I chose to use the supplied mount on mine, but I did hold the radial up to the firewall and it would have worked. The length with the radial mount is also appears to be correct for the cowl, about 6" from the drive washer to the firewall.

Good motor/plane combination. You can see lots of pictures of mine with the Moki 180 earlier in the thread.

I used a 20oz tank on the CG.

Richard

I sealed my hinge gaps with clear ultracote strips. I seal gaps on everything I fly. It is so easy and there's no downside, only positives. I do not do it mitigate flutter, but to make the flight surfaces more effective, thus requiring less surface movement to produce the same reaction. I feel like it helps the plane feel lighter on the sticks and generally fly better.

Richard

Can you explain how or show a pic of your sealed hinges? I am afraid of screwing up my joints or making big ripples in the covering.

Thanks

However I noticed that some of you put fuel dots on the bottom of the fuse. I would like to mount my dot in the smae place but wont the fuel keep draining out since you are below tank level?

Thanks,
Terminator

I finished up the Cap X last night.I used a CF tail wheel as the DP one I originally planned to use just wasn't going to work out without going into the fuse and adding some wood stock. I roughened up the tailwheel mount with some sand paper and put it in place, then removed the covering underneath to expose the wood. I then CA'd it to the fuse and drilled two holes and attached it with a couple of wood screws. Then I used a couple of springs from the DP tailwheel assy. to attach to the pull-pull horns on the rudder and it was done. I gained a weight savings of 1.2 oz. and the plane balances perfect with the Brison and a 5 cell 2700 mah pack mounted over/under the fuel tank which is directly over the CG.

The Brison with muffler weighs right around 3# and I have plenty of room to move the battery around so I think I made a good choice on the engine. The engine was tagged from Brison as swinging a 20/8 at 7740 so it should really snatch this thing through the air. I hope to maiden it today and will post the results on RCU if all goes as planned. Hopefully I'll get some pictures up as well.

Well, it is finished. Looks fantastic. Need to add about 6 oz of weight to the front with the Saito 180. Where/how did everyone mount the lead in the engine box? Just curious...

Have to break the engine in and it'll be ready to go...Will post pics and possible video when I maiden it in 2 weeks (going out of town [&o])

Here is what I did, one 3 oz section on each side...

Well, it flew! Not only did it fly but it flew very well! Unfortunately, it didn't fly long enough. After about five minutes I had a dead stick and had to bring her in. Went just a little long on the roll out and lost a wheel collar which ended my flying for the day. No damage to the plane at all, I didn't have the outer covers on the wheel pants yet so everything worked out well.

The initial takeoff was uneventful, she tracked perfectly straight and lifted off at about 1/3 throttle. The plane required no trim inputs whatsoever but I usually set my planes up with about 1 click of down trim in them for normal flying and this one was perfect right off the bat. The low rates in the manual were used and I think they are awfully tame for a 3 D plane, although they were perfect for a maiden flight. I think I'll up 'em about 15% before the next flight. Slow rolls were effortless and knife edge/ inverted flight like a pattern plane. I didn't notice any bad habits at all but unfortunately I never got to try out the high rates do to the dead stick. Landing without power was no problem at all. The engine quit on the back leg and she just flew and flew. Made the turn and floated her right in for a nice 3 point landing.

I think the dead stick was do to a combination of a slightly too large prop (20/10) and insufficient airflow through the cowl. I was trying to avoid it but I guess I am going to have to open up a larger hole in the front of the cowl to get airflow across the cylinder. I did pull a couple of verticles with the plane and the motor is a very good choice for those of you who are considering a gas engine for this plane. If the weather permits, I'll be back out tomorrow and hopefully get to give it a proper ringing out but it's supposed to rain so who knows.

Well, I tried to balance it after I added the 6 ounces, and it is still tail heavy. I have also found out that I cannot balance this thing alone, I just don't have the equipment or space. I need another set of hands....As of right now it is balancing at around 5", definately needs more weight in the front...

NOVAflier,I balanced mine at the fuse.What I did was measure to 31/4 inches on the wing tip in the center, took a couple tee pins stuck them in the wing tip where I marked and ran thread from one to the other side of the wing.I then presssed the thread down in the center and measured from the recessed area in the wing to the thread just to make sure it was even.
Take a piece of tape to hold down the thread and stick it to the wing.This made me able to use my great planes balancer with the plane inverted.I then was able to balance mine by lightly sticking the weight on the motor box until it balanced.Also use some old shirts or towels and lay them on the ground were your rudder is going to set and then you can hold the front of the plane up with one hand and move the balancer around with out scratching the rudder.This worked fine on mine and when in did get a extra finger to hold the other side it did balance where chip said to should . hope this helps.

Sounds like a good idea. Racsanone suggested that I look at possible moving the weight more forward, thus requireing less...I'm thinking about how best to secure the lead further out, but cannot think of a clean way..

I am running the Saito 180 also and had to mount 5 oz's in the nose. I epoxied the lead to the top and bottom of the motor mount.

Raven

Novaflyer, If you are creative, you can make a mold out of lite ply and melt the lead, then poor it in the mold and mount it directly to the front if the engine mount. My guess is you are going to need about 10 oz. mounted to the front two bolts of the motor mount. Mold the lead in a U shape and hammer the ends flat then drill a couple of holes for the bolts that correspond to the front two engine mount bolts. replace the front bolts with longer ones, bolt the engine in tight with a set of nuts and then use two more nuts to hold the lead to the bolts. I know it is a pain in the arse but works well and gets the lead where you need it and secure too. alternatively you might be able to screw it to the front of the engine box but you will need more lead, probably 13-14 oz.

One other thing. The stickem that comes on the back of those premade lead sticks has a habit of softening up and letting go when installed inside a cowl, which leads to some interesting flying. (Just ask me how I know! [&o] )

For reference purposes, My GSP Katana took 12 oz. of lead to balance with the Saito 1.80 and stock muffler when the OS 1.60 guys were getting by with 4-6 oz. and they were using the pitts style mufflers from slimline. The Saito's are light but have awesome power, I think you will be happy with it and the lead really won't be noticed other then the fact you know it is there. The only drawback to the 1.80 is fuel consumption. I get an 8 minute flight (3D stuff) outta mine on 14 oz. of Omega 15% I would love to run 30% in it but it's just too thirsty.

great info as I am considering one very soon. Just crashed my 25% Giles so now I have servos and a 1.60fx that needs a home

Novaflier- where do you fly? I would love to come see it person.


regards

matt

Novaflier,that is right the further forward the weight the less you will need.I would suggest a prop
washer weight,it goes in front of the prop but is thicker and I believe they come anywhere between 1/2 ounce to 1 1/2 ounces.that is as far forward as I think you could get.
It takes 1/5 the weight to fix nose heavy.The tail is longer and gives more leverage,you can go further out by the tail weight which requires less weight.Check out great planes web site for the prop weight I think there $6.00.

For those of you running the Moki 1.8 - Perry VP 30 setup - do you have a problem with the engine coming back to a full idle after running at 100% throttle? On the ground I have great transition between idle and full throttle. in the air after running at 50% throttle or more the engine does not want to come back to idle quickly. It eventually comes back to idle, but takes about 5 seconds. It has nothing to do with the servo or linkage - it's the pump.

Any ideas? I'm got the pressure screw all the way out, and it still doesn't help.

What your describing sounds like a lean situation on the bottom end. But Moki's have a hard time getting adequate fuel if your not careful with your setup. But since your running a pump you "should" be okay.....note I said should. But if I had to guess that would be it.

I'm actually rich on the low end. I'm still breaking it in, so I'm blowing lots of smoke all the way from idle to full throttle.

I can try to make it richer to see what happens.

Sounds to me more like lean on the high end. If you're lean on the high end it will cause the engine to heat up after running for a bit at full throttle. Then since the engine is very hot it won't settle down to a nice idle until it cools down a bit.

Regards, Matthew

I have a question about the CAP-X, What sized spinner should I use? I am going to order this plane and a brand new O.S. 1.60FX I will use a Tru-Turn Aluminum Spinner but anyways what size should I get?

Thanks, O.S. Master