Beautiful!

Bama, it's 5/16 steel brake line with a compression fitting. Just make sure you get a straight threaded fitting, otherwise it won't screw into the motor. Was about 5 bucks at NAPA.

But I just talked to a YS rep and he said to make something as long as I did, he would suggest 3/8 or even 1/2 inch line, so I might need to figure out how to do that.

DT

DT,
Thanks for the info,
Alan

Vampire,

I did a little experimentation today and got the exact balance point marked. I also did what you suggested and removed the tail wheel to see what effect that had. It moved the balance point 1/2" but since the tail wheel only weighs 1.41 oz. with the 2 hex bolts, I'm not sure I can put anything on that I trust and end up saving weight. The tail wheel may look heavy but it really isn't. Anyway, here is a picture of the balance point, turns out I am 2" back!

The supplied spinner is HEAVY, I may try and get a 3-blade thinner than the Master Airscrew I tried at first (too thick with backplate, washer and bolt to get more than 1 - 1 1/4 turns on the bolt, not enough!).

Jack

I need to measure the balance point UPSIDE DOWN! Oops!

Let me go back to the drawing board...

Jack

Any advise on which retracts. I will also be putting a S.T. 2300 in mine, but I think I will buy the Jet in cowl muffler to get a couple hundred more rpm's out the S.T.

..Which Route were you going with the retracts ?..Pneumatics or Mechanicals..Pneumatics are working out to be quite a heavy option...

Those RB planes are looking great. how fast is it with the 160. anyone open her up yet. Just a note on the flaperons, if you make them go up instead of down this creates washout and works great, has the same efect as flaps, i have this settup on my WM giant miss america. the first version didnt have flaps and this really helped to slow it down on landing, and should make it less prone to tip stalls. will a moki 180 fit up front on this plane???

Well, one things for sure......TT built a strong ARF! I made one pass, 1/2 throttle and was clocked @ 89 mph, then I had engine failure and happend to be over a corn field and let me tell you, this bird don't glide! It droped out of the sky from about 20 feet up after I stalled it[:@] trying to make it out of the corn field and in to the clear, witch I barely did, and only ripped one retract gear out, cracked the fuse just behind the wing saddles and a few cracks on the cowling.

The fuel tank popped apart and causing my engine problem and fuel went every were inside the fuse, so, with a little cleaning, new tank installed and about 6 houhrs latter, the Bear is ready to go again tomorrow, hopefully this time with out problems!

This dont sound to good ...this is with a wing loading of what... 31.1oz Sq foot....looks like keeping the weight down is real important..

Hi Jack:

I ran the calculations on the exisitng kit suggested C/G of 5-1/4 in. and this turns out to be approx. 27% of the MAC as discussed earlier.

Therefore, to go to the Max. aft C/G, you can go AFT another 3/8 in. (5-5/8 total from L. E. at wing root ) which will yeild 30% MAC. DO NOT go more aft than this. I would only do this as a last resort. This location turns out to be the REAR edge of the Wheel Well in the Fuselage.

Yes, the kit supplied spinner adds significant nose weight to the completed model.

The only other suggestion I have is to put the batteries on another tray on the FRONT side of the firewall if at all possible, but I'm sure you have already thought of this.

Sorry I cannot be of any fruther help.

HighSierra,

Have you made a flight with the 140 yet? Mine's almost ready to go, so as soon as I can throw these crutches aside, I'm ready with the 110.

Vampire,

Thanks for the measurements, 3/8" isn't as much as I had hoped though! I really appreciate all the help you've offered and you're right, the best thing to do is move the batteries forward. I was trying to avoid a "hard" solution in favor of an easy one but in this case, adding weight is not really an option I like.

I have started to re-work a new battery tray which will sit above the motor mount, the batteries will slide in from the cockpit hatch cover opening making battery changes quick (a must). This will move 20 oz of LiPo from behind the firewall to in front of it (4 1/2 " forward measured center to center) placing a total of 34 1/2 oz in FRONT of the firewall. This "should" make my balance issue go away, in fact, I expect I wont need any additional weight to balance out at the recommended point as in your case. By moving the batteries, I'll be able to keep my existing weight 9 lbs - 10 oz (plus prop shaft adapter, prop and spinner) for a grand total of 10 lbs - 2 oz flying weight!

Thanks again for the advice and pushing toward a "real" fix...

Jack

APS F4U Thanks for the information and best wishes for your next flight. How do you feel the 605 retracts?

DT, I flew it once last wek with the 140, but it was a pretty short flight as the engine wasn't running right (took off, came around and landed). I've since had the carb slide modified to get a leaner lowend so it wouldn't load up, But the 140 is looking like one mean powerplant (it's swinging a 16x8 3 blade at 8500 and still rich on the high end....may need more prop after it's totaly broken in). It's been really windy here since Thursady, but i think it's supposed to calm down by tomorrow. Just from the 30 seconds I flew it last week with the 140, I can tell it's going to have some serious pulling power!! Not to mention I've got some good confidence in the retracts holding in the wings after that flight (which ended in a dead stick), because if it where a real plane, the pilots head would have compressed down to his butt from the lack of a greased landing (it was a hard landing)...but not a hint of damage....I'm glad I got the all metal retracts, as there's no way plastic would have stood up to that landing!!

Lord Lucan, did you modify the OS C-spec for aircraft use or is it available like that? That would seem to be an awesome engine choice for a .90 sized model!

HighSierra,
Congratulations for your happy end thrilling flight and I appreciate your retract evaluation. I'm a little afraid of the model's weight due to the height of Mexico City--7500 ft[X(]--So I'm looking and asking about the performance of light accessories.

Blohmvoss..I hear ya on flying at altitude! I fly at 5000ft, so I'm in somewhat the same boat as you (i used to fly helis at 7000')...

I've got no personal experience with the 605's, but i read enough horror stories to scare me away...

As for the heavy wingloading... Ya just have to deal with it and fly it fast (just like the real one!) It is a warbird let's not forget!!

I'm pretty impressed with you guys comeing in with a 10 lb plane.... They must have gone crazy glassing the tail of my plane, as it's still about an 1" tail heavy with the YS 140 on it and a Jtec snuff-vibe mount!!

H..Yes you can buy the Kit to modify the aircraft standard .91FX ...all you need is a M3,5 tap and correct size drill...Dead easy.....then sell ya old 60F Carburettor..

Isn't the stock .91fx 2.8 HP? Is the extra .2 worth it?

That's about a 7% increase, but worth the money?

The retracts seem to be ok, the only issue that I am having now, is that the right side tends to stick in the up position and with a slight touch of the finger on the gear, it pops down. can't figure out why it's doing this.
As far as beeing durable.....they seem to be ok, but thats only after a few flights too.

[quote]ORIGINAL: HighSierra



I've got no personal experience with the 605's, but i read enough horror stories to scare me away...

[quote

HighSierra, were did you redad all these neg. posts on the robart 605's? All the ones I read say that the 605's are a good retract and the are very strong. Thats the only reason I bought them was because I saw alot of positive on them, other than having to mount some of the hardware in the fuse unlike the Spring Airs, were they mount in the wing? not familar with the Spring Air retracts, but I havn't had any trouble with the 605's, other than the one side sticking, and thats on the ground only, not in the air, thank God!

A

...Yeah, 7% aint a lot i know it's more that you have a pumped motor now..
look at Towers Price for the whole Conversion kit ...OSMG4040...for anyone who has a standard .91 FX or who wants a spare pump /carb whatever..

..Here's a link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go

The conversion kit is $130

In it youget:-

Perry pump...$89

Pump holder...$38

Backplate/coverplate...$15
Head (not realy needed...but sellable .)...$89

60M carb..$119

..plus a couple of other odds and sod's......thats pushing $350's worth of hardware...

Edit:19:56...cant spell..!

Anybody have an urge to fly just because they really want to...skip all the calculations, building these darn things....slap 'er together the best you can and meet somehwhere in the middle of nearwhere (i.e. with the entire haggar in the middle of desert) and just fly for the sake of it? Doesn't really matter what your flying....just that your flying? Just wanting to fly and stuck in the middle of a bunch of concrete (i.e the bay area)......

[sm=redface.gif]Where are those hyperactive RARE BEARS? Are they so early in their burrows?