Should be fine, the engine runs well on a 15x8, 15x6-10 (3d prop) and the 16x6.

Cool.
thanks again.

Well it was a great weekend I was able to get the breakin runs done on the Saito FA-170R. I did it with 5 - 10 minute runs between 2500 and 4K and wow it sounds great. One thing I did was to put the Sullivan ignition system on the plane so I would not have to work a microswitch and remember to turn it on and off. The photos show how I configured it in the passenger cockpit and there is still room for the female bust. I plan on flying with the orginal male bust and a female one that I found.

Also I included a picture of the interior and the servos that I upgraded to before it even flew. I had put some Spektrum DS821's in because they were high torque, digital and fast. They did not have metal shafts and those shafts could not take the expected back pressure of the elevator. I now have Hitec metal shafts HS-5645MG Digital Torque with 168 oz @ .8 sec to turn 60 degrees. The DS821 is 72 oz with .19 sec to turn 60 degrees but the plastic shaft would break on back pressure to the elevator. May be the leverages?? I don't know just an observation. With all that we have invested in the aircraft, spending an extra $20 for insurance was a no brainer.

I also installed two MPI charge switches, one for the radio and one for the ignition. Idiot lights to tell me when the battery(s) too low for one more time.

Just a heads up[sm=rolleyes.gif]in case you have already done it. Make sure you check the incidence with a meter between the bottom wing, the upper wing and the horizontal stab? All should be 0 to each other.
Good Luck and Happy Landings
Shubova
[8D]

I test flew mine yesterday with 170R and DS821 servo's.
Those servo's will do the job perfectly, you might find rather than change from them to Hitec you simply do the sensible thing and use two 821's on elevators and do away with that stupid idea of lashing two elevator rods together, no matter how good your Hitecs are they wont help you if the two wire bolts come loose!
By the way I also use 821's on my jet (Boomerang Sprint) with the exception of elevator, 160 mph!

I didn't use the mechanical connection on the two elevator wires. Instead, I wrapped the wires together with copper wire and silver-soldered them together. Three years of use and no problems. The two servo option makes a lot of sense, though. There is safety in numbers.

Sorry, I couldn't see that in the picture, good idea as you say providing you have a spare channel to mix in.

Great ideas all, that's why I post and read here.

For some reason I did not think to separate the rudder rods but they are soldered and now I'll add the copper wire.

Thanks,

Just a little clip of test flight landing last weekend with a nice motor! My thanks to a couple of guys on this forum who helped me with engine installation advice, Kelvin at Keleo and Hank at Sontronics/McDaniels.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlGeVIyL8bo

Your engine sounds great !

I have a question about setting up the throws for the ailerons. I have the 4 servo set up. In the manual it says to set the throws at 1 1/2" for the top wing and 1" for the bottom. Is that what most of you have used? I think that is a lot of throw but this is my first biplane. Thanks

I personally found that they do need a fair amount of aileron, as much as you can safely get really. Can't help you with the 4 servo ail setup, I only used two.

Anyone still out there? I have a couple questions. My tail wheel wire broke. Any good replacements? The wheels have been a big problem trying to find some that don't bounce. Any ideas? My plane hooks hard to the left on take off, anyone have this problem? Thanks for any help.

Ron,
Unfortunately, my Stearman is in the past tense, that said, it was not any fault of the airplane. I used dubro 4" wheels, they are soft, but still hard enough to wear well. I replaced my tail wheel with a set up that let me run a separate servo. I actually opened up the fuse in the back, where the balsa block is and made up some pieces that included a 1/2A nose wheel mount. If your airplane pulls to the left, check and make sure the wheels are not binding. When you take off are you letting your speed build or are you hitting the throttle pretty hard? Natural torque, will make the plane pull left, especially if you have a large engine / prop combination.
Hope this helps you.

I use Dubro 4" air inflatable wheels without any air. They flex enough to smooth out landing bounces.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD766&P=SM



This tail wheel would be a good choice. The springs insulate the rudder servo from shock and will help the tailwheel hold up better.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXRWW9&P=SM

I think I put one of the ohio tail wheels on mine, worked well....

I used dave brown 4" foam tires. No bounce but it makes flat spots when it has been sitting. They lasted about 3 flights and started rolling over the sides. Next time I will try a slower take off. It has 50cc gas engine and flies great. I tried some toe in but it didn't help. Thanks for your help

Thanks for your help, I will check it out.

Thanks, I will look it up.

Hi Guys, I posted some pictures of my Stearman rebuild a little over a month ago and have finally finished it. Just in case you are interested, here are the final pictures of it in a navy version. I didn't go all out with the red stripes on the wings and fuse but just kept it simple. When you start to embellish these things it is easy to get carried away. So I quit so I could fly it. Having some problems getting the G-23 to run again but it is close. There are 53 screws on each side and I ran out. The screws were from my Balsa USA 1/3 cub. I will have to get some more to finish it.
The covering is 21st centry cub yellow fabric. The roundells and stars are also coverite fabric!
Thanks and keep up the blogging. bird.

Mods feel free to delete but I have some brand new wings and a fuse that I kept for back up listed in the Classfieds if any one needs them.
half price for.
Thanks!!!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=543789

BIGBIRD3, nice job !

It really makes it stand out, I have a couple arfs I always intended to recover but they are sitting in the box looking like everone elses ! I hope you encourage others to follow your lead..

Thanks foodstick.
It took me three years to finally get it back to flying condition. Now I have an engine issue. Soon as I get it resolved I will be trying to crash it again! bird.

Here is my bash of the GP Super Stearman. Fly's great with Barbi on the top wing and smoke on. It's powered with a G-23 and a Slimline smoke muffler, hidden by William's Brothers cylinders and the GP PT-17 cowl.

Very nice, looks great in a different colour, a few pics of mine attached.