GP Super Stearman
#201
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From: Williamstown,
VT
Jaque, don't worry about it. It is set up just right. I never used those holes because I put a G-23 in mine and had to modify the fire wall just slightly. If you are using the mount supplied for the .90 or 1.20, it will do nicely. Good luck and enjoy a fine model.
Bird.
P.S. Be sure and use red locktite on the mount screws. It really secures them better than the blue.
Bird.
P.S. Be sure and use red locktite on the mount screws. It really secures them better than the blue.
#204
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From: Charleston, WV
Thanks, I am putting the 160 I got for Xmas in a Katana and wanted the 91 in the Stearman. I am going to start my build next week I think. I am looking forward to getting it done.
#205
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From: Jerusalem, ISRAEL
jhogie
Should start working on mine soon, forgot to ask which prop goes best with this combination?
Do you have a vibration problem with the 180 , should I replace the stock mount??
Should start working on mine soon, forgot to ask which prop goes best with this combination?
Do you have a vibration problem with the 180 , should I replace the stock mount??
#206

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From: sayre,
PA
HI All - I started flying the GP Stearman in August with a Zenoah G26 for power. Previous posts on RCU showed how to install it. It is an excellant choice for this plane. It is not overpowered, it sounds great, and you can adjust the performance by changing prop sizes. I originally used a 16/8 APC prop but the RPM was over 9000. (it fit inside the spinner fine) I went to a 17/6 APC (and did have to file the spinner a bit - no big deal) and the rpm is now down to 8900. I did not try a 18/6 but might when I get the next Stearman built.
Yup - Stearman #1 went down on 1/1/05 when it would not recover from a low motor slow speed spin. Since it never had this problem in the past and based on further inspection, it is possible the stab/tail came loose during the spin which prevented it from recovering. I DID NOT REINFORCE THE STAB/FUSE AREA WHEN I INSTALLED THE GAS ENGINE. BIG MISTAKE !! Gas engines have more vibratrion and need a stronger stab/tail setup. Stearman #2 will have solid wire braces from the stab down to the fuse. Problem solved.
I used Futaba 9202 servos on each aileron (4 total) and will not do this on the next one. The 70 oz. servos are powerfull enough to drive the top wing surfaces and still provide redundacy control should one servo fail. I will add a second elevator servo tho - and have a seperate pushrod to each half. (more redundacy)
The plane balanced fine with teh Zenoah with no lead needed.
I used all of the other parts provided by GP EXCEPT for the nylon clevis' and the 2 bolt surface horns. I prefer the 3 point Robart horns and metal links with lock nuts.
Since this is a gas powered plane I felt the extra security of stronger horns and metal links are worth the expense.
One other issue to solve BEFORE assembly. Spend time shrinking ALL of the covering with a heat gun or iron or you will have a saggy baggy plane. This my only complaint with Great Planes on the Stearman. And every magazine reviewer had the same complaint. I wish they would offer this model in RTC instead of ARF. I plan to retrim my next model to a sport scale version scheme.
OK - that's all I know about the GP Stearman. Hope this answers some of the questions in the posts. HAPPY NEW YEAR !
Yup - Stearman #1 went down on 1/1/05 when it would not recover from a low motor slow speed spin. Since it never had this problem in the past and based on further inspection, it is possible the stab/tail came loose during the spin which prevented it from recovering. I DID NOT REINFORCE THE STAB/FUSE AREA WHEN I INSTALLED THE GAS ENGINE. BIG MISTAKE !! Gas engines have more vibratrion and need a stronger stab/tail setup. Stearman #2 will have solid wire braces from the stab down to the fuse. Problem solved.
I used Futaba 9202 servos on each aileron (4 total) and will not do this on the next one. The 70 oz. servos are powerfull enough to drive the top wing surfaces and still provide redundacy control should one servo fail. I will add a second elevator servo tho - and have a seperate pushrod to each half. (more redundacy)
The plane balanced fine with teh Zenoah with no lead needed.
I used all of the other parts provided by GP EXCEPT for the nylon clevis' and the 2 bolt surface horns. I prefer the 3 point Robart horns and metal links with lock nuts.
Since this is a gas powered plane I felt the extra security of stronger horns and metal links are worth the expense.
One other issue to solve BEFORE assembly. Spend time shrinking ALL of the covering with a heat gun or iron or you will have a saggy baggy plane. This my only complaint with Great Planes on the Stearman. And every magazine reviewer had the same complaint. I wish they would offer this model in RTC instead of ARF. I plan to retrim my next model to a sport scale version scheme.
OK - that's all I know about the GP Stearman. Hope this answers some of the questions in the posts. HAPPY NEW YEAR !
#207
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From: Williamstown,
VT
pafflyer23, nice commentary. As far as the covering is concerned, anytime you cover comething half way around the world you should expect some sagging. After all, the planes travel through many different climates and humidities. It is an excelent covering job in the first place considering they over worked and underpaid the poor fella that did the work.
I am running S-148's on everything with a 6 volt sub-C pack. 4 on ailerons and 1 on elevator and rudder. Since futaba rates their servo's at 6volts for 44 in. oz. of power they are up to handling the load.
Also am running a new but old style G-23.
I am running S-148's on everything with a 6 volt sub-C pack. 4 on ailerons and 1 on elevator and rudder. Since futaba rates their servo's at 6volts for 44 in. oz. of power they are up to handling the load.
Also am running a new but old style G-23.
#209
hi, i was thinking buying the gp super sterman and was wondering if there is any problems with it?
is it possible to put a smoke setup in the plane?
thanks anyone!!!
is it possible to put a smoke setup in the plane?
thanks anyone!!!
#211

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From: Las Vegas, NV
It is a great plane..you can fly it docile or a barn burner....depends on the engine & prop.
I am flying mine with a YS-120, Swinging a 16 X 8 prop. There is plenty of room for a smoke system....I plan to add one to mine when I have time,
Larry
AMA 11269
I am flying mine with a YS-120, Swinging a 16 X 8 prop. There is plenty of room for a smoke system....I plan to add one to mine when I have time,
Larry
AMA 11269
#213
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From: Maumelle,
AR
This ARF was the best $300 I spent in a while. I love it. There is no fear in flying it because it is so docile. it takes off quickly, and if it is balanced perfectly, it lands just as easily as a Funtana or a Trainer. It is also one of the pretier ARFs I have purchased. As i have heard in the past, the bigger they are the pretier they fly. This ARF is both beautiful and sassy. when you want it to, it will just about do anything. Get the right moter for you, one you are comfortable with, and fly this plane. DO NOT BE AFRAID OF IT.
Good luck, I will help if you need it.
Jhogie
Good luck, I will help if you need it.
Jhogie
#214
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From: Maumelle,
AR
I have had no problem with vibration. I ran the engine on the ground for 3 tanks to break it in, then adjusted my high and low ends of the needle valve. The Saito puuuurrrrs when at idle, with little or no vibration. Another member at my field suggested the breakin scheme, and it worked to a tee. Thank goodness for the elderly!! For they are wise. I am out of town, and not sure which pro size I used, but I do know it is a carbon fiber prop. I may go to a wooden prop later. I hear they do not flex as much. I believe my prop is a 16x8. I will check and let you know.
Good luck
Good luck
#215
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From: Montgomery, AL AL
I have really enjoyed this thread and the many tips as I build my Super Stearman. Have installed a B & B G26 with smoke (system not installed yet). I've been deliberately slow with this build. I want to do it right, and I am a newbie pilot and need to accumulate more tail dragger stick time so I don't want to have it ready for maiden before I am ready. The need for more experience was demonstrated Sunday when a cousin of Charlie Brown's kite-eating tree "reached out and touched" my converted Big Stik 60; removed the LG and took a bite out of the LE of the right wing[>:]. Repairs progress but also dictate delay of progress on the Stearman. Having just retired, I have plenty of time, plus the 60's plus weather we've been enjoying seems to be over. I am getting head shakes and stares from the Mrs. whenever she walks by - I think she wants the workbench/breakfastroom table back.
#216
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From: Maumelle,
AR
isnt it funny. We all seemed to be married to the same girl. I get those stare and glares as well. Sorry about the tree. That same tree seems to be reproducing throughout the world!! Good luck in getting the Stearman completed. I also want to add smoke, just dont know how or where to start. When you get the Stearman airborn, let me know what you think. I bet you will tell me that it is easier to fly than your stik!!
Good luck
Good luck
#217
thanks everybody for ur tips and will help me if i decide to get this plane. at the moment i am thinking of getting a stearman or extra 300 wagstaff. but im leaning towards the stearman.
#218
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From: Pompton Lakes, NJ
Any flying videos yet???
I'm undecided between the Stearman and Kange's Waco. The Stearman preferably because it has better scale appearance The Waco has a meaner look to it.
Thanks
I'm undecided between the Stearman and Kange's Waco. The Stearman preferably because it has better scale appearance The Waco has a meaner look to it.
Thanks
#220
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From: Maumelle,
AR
Can you help me with a smoke system? What is involved with the Sullivan smoke system? I am running a 4 stroke engine, and some say the muffler does not get hot enough. I find this hard to believe, because it sure has burned me!!! What are the costs? Where do I get one? How difficult is it to install?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
#221
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From: Royal Palm Beach ,
FL
I got my first flight 3 weeks ago in a very windy day but it flies very good.
I also installed the showtime smoke system with os 120 with slimline pitts muffler and test it on the ground but doesn't seem to burn it ,i don't know what else to do ,and i tried to slow down the flow but not much better. the engine alone smoke more. Well we'll see next time in the air if it makes a difference.
I also installed the showtime smoke system with os 120 with slimline pitts muffler and test it on the ground but doesn't seem to burn it ,i don't know what else to do ,and i tried to slow down the flow but not much better. the engine alone smoke more. Well we'll see next time in the air if it makes a difference.
#223

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From: Las Vegas, NV
If you are not getting enough smoke, it could be that the oil is not being pre-heated.
This might seem stupid, but...Is the Slimeline a smoke muffler....the Sullivan Sky Writer works just great...What type of engine...what type of oil are you using (Bennet works great)
I cannot see why it doesnot smoke...unless the oil that you are using is bad......
This might seem stupid, but...Is the Slimeline a smoke muffler....the Sullivan Sky Writer works just great...What type of engine...what type of oil are you using (Bennet works great)
I cannot see why it doesnot smoke...unless the oil that you are using is bad......
#224
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From: Williamstown,
VT
jhogie, believe it or not the four stroke exaust is hotter than a two stroke. The reason is that the four stroke doesn't fire every time, so the engine is not being 'washed' down with alcohol, octane, therefore the heat is greater. With the two stroke the fuel is being fed up the intake side of the engine cooling it each stroke. Many would think otherwise because the four stroke fires every other time and therefore there should be less heat. Believe me, it will melt an exaust deflector made for a two stroke. That is why there is one for each.
The type of muffler is important for smoke. If it is not a 'smoke' muffler it will be marginal at best in many cases. You can however wrap brass tubing around the muffler, tightly, to pre-heat the smoke fuel. The more wraps you get on it the better it will vaporize. Use a three foot piece of 1/8th or 5/16th, which ever fits the supply tubing best. Don't solder any pieces together because it will melt from the heat. Be sure and aneal the brass tubing before wrapping it. If it flattens a little it will be alright but don't kink it too much, the back pressure might blow the line off.
Usually, the smoke mufflers are set up this way but with the coil inside unless they have found a way to do it otherwise.
Too bad the four stroke muffler is welded instead of screwed together like the two strokes, then you could put a coil inside and have your smoke and eat it too!
Now, just in case you get the bright idea to cut the end off of the muffler you have, and put the coil inside, be fore warned that if there has been fuel run through it, it will not weld back together very well because the aluminum has expanded and saturated itself with oil and the weld will spatter and look like a dirt dobber did it, I don't care how good a welder you are!
Well, that's my take on the matter. Hope I have shed some light from another direction that actually helped.
Take care and write soon ya hea!
bird.
The type of muffler is important for smoke. If it is not a 'smoke' muffler it will be marginal at best in many cases. You can however wrap brass tubing around the muffler, tightly, to pre-heat the smoke fuel. The more wraps you get on it the better it will vaporize. Use a three foot piece of 1/8th or 5/16th, which ever fits the supply tubing best. Don't solder any pieces together because it will melt from the heat. Be sure and aneal the brass tubing before wrapping it. If it flattens a little it will be alright but don't kink it too much, the back pressure might blow the line off.
Usually, the smoke mufflers are set up this way but with the coil inside unless they have found a way to do it otherwise.
Too bad the four stroke muffler is welded instead of screwed together like the two strokes, then you could put a coil inside and have your smoke and eat it too!
Now, just in case you get the bright idea to cut the end off of the muffler you have, and put the coil inside, be fore warned that if there has been fuel run through it, it will not weld back together very well because the aluminum has expanded and saturated itself with oil and the weld will spatter and look like a dirt dobber did it, I don't care how good a welder you are!
Well, that's my take on the matter. Hope I have shed some light from another direction that actually helped.
Take care and write soon ya hea!
bird.
#225
Just wondering if anyone who has decided to use 4 servos instead of two would like to sell their connecting rods that go from the top to the bottom aileron. I am about two evenings into building my stearman and noticed one of the 4-40 ends on my connecting rod is stripped completely out. So I was justy wondering since I know some prople are using 4 servos. I have contacted Great Planes and I am sure they will be helpful, but I am stationed in Germany and it will probably take a long time if I have to send it to them and then wait for them to send me another.


