Bud
Yes, I did all that with the pics. It tells me its uploading, uploading complete, I hit ok and then no pics. Mystery.

I wound up using the same pipes as you describe, the brass was a bust. I am now working on putting some detail in the inside cabin. I made some floors, and I am using some vinyl material to line the insides of the cabin wall. I will make seats out of foam board and try to cover them with the same vinyl material.
Aside from balancing, the cub is complete and ready to fly, this effort is fill in till the weather gets better. I bought the spinner from Dave Brown with the discount coupon that came with the kit. I bought the "standard" 3 inch dia., its more curvy than the ultimate version.

Hey, it worked that time! I'll try more

Looks real good Ric, now that you have yours done check out this link someone sent me.
http://www.keleo-creations.com/Twins/OS.htm
What are those blue sleeves? I like!


Bud

Has anyone had trouble getting the correct throws on the ailerons as suggested in the manual which is 1 3/8" on hi rates? If I do I end up with a 3/16" gap on the bottom side of the wing and a noticable gap on top. Haven't glued anything yet.

Bud

Hi Bud I had same problem. The instructions infer this by saying you might have to stand off. I got my throws and have a gap like you. I set my flaps so they were even with the ailerons and it dosn't look to bad. Only thing is they don't align with the wing tip.

Hi rubyred,
That's the part I forgot to mention....it doesn't align with the wing tip. Thought for a minute it was just me having that problem. Thanks,


Bud

Bud
I was aware of the Keleo exhaust extensions. I didnt go for them because I was concerned about clearing the inside of the cowl. The angle of the exhaust pipe has to come close to the engine crankcase to stay inside of the cowl, especially for the left cylinder which is offset closer to the prop by a small amount. They look like they have the right shape, but the actual dimensions are key. Also, where they come out of the bottom has to be right. The only way to find out is to buy one, kind of expensive experiment. I got the blue silicon tubes from a hobby shop, they are used to attach tuned pipes to mufflers. They come in various sizes. also had a little trouble getting the full throw on the aerilons, I compromised between making a grotesque gap or less throw. I got about 1 1/4 ". My Sig 1/4 scale cub has been flying well for years with less throw than that. If you mix in rudder, the result is even better.

Bud, To bad those wing tips were just maybe an 1/8 longer then it would be fine.

I have been talking with Keleo on his exhaust for the OS 160. Apparently with some pictures of the engine installation mainly head on and at 90 degrees to the firewall he can lay a protractor on it and setup his jig. I told him about my concern of the right cylinder exhaust hitting the cowl and he is going to see what he can do about that clearance. He is busy now so Im waiting for a time table on when he can get to mine

Here is some pics of what I was able to do. Hope this works

Thanks Ric and rubyred......still haven't epoxied anything yet, will give this some thought, good pictures.

Bud

O.K. Made my decision....i'll compromise and set for 1 5/16" hi rates. I'll use hi rate ailerons and lo rate rudder and elev and mix in some rudder. If that don't work i'll build a bigger cub

Ric...nice shop! Is that a nieuport 28 hanging up? Proctor?

Bud
Yes, that is a Nieuport 28, Balsa USA. It had a G 23 in it, I am converting it to a 3 cylinder Saito 170. The fuel proofing on the colors is the big hurdle. I have too much stuff, I'm going to try to sell some at the Central Penn flea market in March. I'm going to be in Laytonsville all next week watching the grandkids, no airplane work for awhile.
Ric

Ric..

I am just starting to install the OS 160 in my DP cub and would like to know how you built the box the engine is bolted to. is it made from plywood, what size plywood, how big is the diameter, and how deep it is from the firewall to the back of the engine. I know it needs to be as deep as to move the engine out so the back plate on the engine is 1/16 in front of the cowl, but just wanted to know how deep your box is. Also did you use 10-32 bolts to bolt the engine to the box. I appreciate your help. thanks

Robert..

Robert
I am away from home right now, back Saturday, so I cant give you measurements yet. The total distance was close to what the instructions said was needed, I followed the suggested method to set the final dimensions. What I did was to mount the engine on a aluminum channel, about 1 inch high, and then bolt the channel to wooden spacers cut to size to make up the rest of the distance needed. I made 4 separate blocks, 2 horizontal and two vertical The wooden spacers were cut from a piece of pine board and sealed with epoxy. The wooden parts have thru holes and are bolted to the firewall using the captive nuts that are already on the firewall. The aluminum channel is bolted to the wooden spacers using threaded brass inserts in the wood. The engine is bolted to the channel using locknuts. When I get back I can take some pics to show the detail. I used #10-32 SS hardware for all. The channel I bought at Home Depot. I used this method successfully on many airplanes. It avoids having to use a single large wooden spacer that may split, and every thing is removable from the firewall in case the engine is replaced by some other size
Ric.

Ric..
Thanks Ric. I will be looking forward to seeing your pictures of the box and measurments.

Robert

Ric, please post the pictures so that we can all see how to do it.
Thanks - Howard

Is there anyone who has their cub finished using a futaba radio and if so did you use a Y on the flaps or separate channels? I have the futaba super 8 and can't figure out how to program it to use two channels. I have it set up to operate flaps from a switch as opposed to the knob but that's as far as I got. Also, manual says either mount servos left of center line or right of centerline..does it matter if i'm using a Y? I have my stupid hat on tonight []



Bud

Bud, I called fuutabaa and guy walked me right thru hit :^)
after I read and read and still could not figure it out

tom e

Bud,

NOW , I am super! Contributor ??? hun I not do nuttin :^)........te

Hey Tom,
Guess you have to have so many posts to be a super C never really noticed mine. Yeah...I have Don Edbergs book and am still confused.

Hi all; I,m just getting back to this thread. I have been puting some interior detail in my DPM super cub, sending pics. I used light balsa, easy to work with and paint. I only added 4 ozs extra weight. I,m eager to see what some of you fellas are doing with the interior of the cub. I,m not sure about the colors. I bo not want to spend money on a documented picture set for this plane but I did get to take pictures of a real super cub at an air show so my interior is pretty good. I wish I had the white cub, the colors would be better.
Bud, I like what you did with the tail brace wires and hinges on your cub, they look great. What did you use?

Handyandy,
If you're referring to the picture of the cub tail I posted on the previous page that's a real cub. I haven't done my bracing yet. Nice clean interior....will you have access to the fuel tank?


Bud

Hi Bud;
All the floor boards and the front panel are removable to access the tank and the flight pack. The floor boards are elevated and all the works are underneath. All the panels and the seats are easily accessible through the top hatch. I will make the windshield removable as well. I am looking at your interior for ideas as well.

Hi handy andy,
Here's some shots of how i'm doing my interior...the receiver will be under the rear seat.

Bud

Ric.. Still looking forward to those pictures of your engine box and how you built it. Thanks

Robert..