Hi Bud, I'm going to try to send the photos.

BUD IS BAD , not buying enuff Digital Filme for his Camera :-)..........te
and gits behind on his Pict takin

Looks Good Andy, that should hold real well. How about some pics of your engine installation?

Tom old pal....not behind on pic taking, just behind on having something to take.
Progress is slow lately but will get this potato off the couch soon.

I finally finished it. Well, not really, but I did finish all of the assembly steps. Now I have to do all of the "adjustment" steps, servo travel, mixing, lead dress, fuel line tie down, etc. That means I am 95% complete and 95% to go. The flap and aerilon hinging was easy, nothing like the stab and rudder ordeal. The struts went together like an erector set, and were right on the first try. First check on CG shows tail heavy, using an OS 160 twin. I plan to add a glo lighter up front, I hope that balances it without moving anything else. I also need to make the exhaust pipe extensions. After seeing the examples of what some of you guys do in detailing, I have to seriously figure out how to dress it up in the cockpit. The airplane is so pretty, it cries out to look good inside too. Oh well, maybe 150% to go.

Keep us posted on finishing the interior of your DPM cub. I will be doing mine and will be interested in what you come up with. I do not want to spend $50 on a picture set. I did see a real super cub at an air show and I took lots of pics on the plane and the interior. I will post my progress, perhaps we can swap ideas.

Ric, what glo system are you using? I bought the electrodynamics setup for mine. I'm working on my interior now...got some pictures from the super cub .org web site. Still a long way to go. Not scale by any means but it does dress it up a little. Here's one pic of the rear section and one showing a portion of the side panels and seats. Just 3/32" balsa, I filled the grain with moistened drywall paste and sanded most of that off and painted with LustreKote...no weight to speak of.


Bud

Bud
Looks good, better than where I am right now. I plan to use an Electrodynamics 103, I have one on another 160 and it works like a charm. Maybe I can put the status light on the instrument panel if it isnt too far out of scale. I like the idea of hiding the switches and fuel valve behind the cowl cheeks, will probably do that. Cant work this weekend, will be in your neck of the woods (Laytonsville Md) with the grand kids.
Andy
As soon as I figure out how to work this digital camera and get the pix on line, will do. Check the super cub web site mentioned a few posts back, there are a lot of pictures free. I plan to go to Oshkosh again this summer, I probably can get pictures of cubs, but way too late to use. Every time I go I take pictures of "someday I will build that" airplanes. I missed up on the cub.
Ric

Bud, Who did you get to cut your lettering, or did you do it yourself?

Scott

Ric,
I know Laytonsville well, used to go thru there every friday when I took my mom to leisure world to get her hair done before she passed away. Don't know how long your staying but gonna be 60 monday and warm all next week! At least that's what they say hmmm. If you wanna chat about cubs my cell is 240-674-4000

sj3cub, I had cajun r/c specialties do them. Also had them do NO STEP (4) for my lift struts.
There's another guy in Houma La. that does them but can't remember his site. I understand he does excellent work.

Bud

Hi Bud, I'm sending pics of my engine installation. It's a YS140sport fits in great. Your cub is looking great. What did you use to make the seats? I thought about using foam and painting. I have a ways to go before I get there. Now that I see your cub, I wish that I had the whit one. The yellow will look good.

Nice clean engine install Andy, glad it worked out. I got the seats from a flea market, it was a dynaflite 1/4 cub interior kit..vacu formed seats. No longer made. If you can get some urethane foam it will accept paint. Kinda itchy to work with.

Bud

Here is who did mine : Stan Stockman http://www.rcdecals.com (864) 227-9214
3408 Hwy 25 South
Greenwood, SC 29646 fyi ...............te

Try as I might, I can't seem to get a close gap with the hinges supplied with the kit. The barrel is kinda wide. I had a hard time getting the slots deep enough with a #11 blade. I thought about putting a recess in the stab and fin to sink the barrel in or to just use ultracote and seal the gap so it looks better and prevent flutter. Suggestions anyone?s anyone?

I have the rudder in place and yet to epoxy the elev's. in. I also had to dig deeper for the elev's... hard wood there. I coated the barrel with vaseline before pushing the hinges in. Not worried about flutter on a cub...the real one has a gap.


Bud

Hi Rubyred, name is Andy. I am building the same DPM super cub and I am having the same trouble with the hinging. I peeled back a little of the covering on each end of the slot and with a razor I cut a v groove to accept the barrel of the hinge. I send pics. After the slot is cut, I stuck the covering back with a trim iron, very neat. I get a good tight gap but it can't be totally closed. They simulated a real cub by makeing both edges round and that will not allow for a toatally gap less joint. I don't think that a totally closed gap is not necessary in a slow flying cub. In my picture I get a very tight gap. Be careful not to squeeze the gap too tight as it will not give you enough travel.You can see a little trim tape used to fill the glue joint of the stab. The color is a little off but it still looks good.

Andy,thanks, good idea. Your rudder gap is more to my liking and I think I will give that a try.

I finally got around to my exhaust, after going through three pieces of 3/8"x 19" plumbers chrome plated copper pipe and a brake line bending tool and about five hours and many cups of coffee I have it done. The fuel fill and drain line is to the left of the picture on the side of the fuselage as is the overflow...I used the piece that the manual said glue into the slot at the bottom of the f/wall and mounted it here, hidden inside the cowl. The switch will go on the other side also hidden inside the cowl. Should have a unique sound with one header pipe shorter than the other? Still lots to do.


Bud

Bud, the exhaust looks really great. I got the pipe and gonna do mine the same way. I need to find a bender first. Anyone know where I can find some seats?

Bud,

Looks great, but I hate to be a party pooper, but for cooling isn't the exit supposed to be at least twice the size of the entry point?

Just asking

Lee

Lee,
Must not be so because the very expensive flex pipe they sell for this engine has the same diameter at both ends. I've never seen any as you mention.
you brought back memories of otis AFB....I spent some summer camps there when I was young and in the ANG out of andrews AFB, 1953 and 1954 as I remember. We had my favorite plane back then, the P51 before bringing in the F86.


Rubyred,
You can get a brake line bending tool at any automotive store...here's a picture of mine. You're on your own on the seats...I got lucky and found mine at a flea market from a discontinued dynaflite cub interior kit.

Bud

Bud,

Sorry, I wasn't very clear. I was speaking about the cooling holes for the engine and not the pipe. There isn't a big enough hole in the bottom of the cowl to allow hot air to escape. That ratio of cool air in/hot air out should be 1 to 2. Don't want your nice twin to burn up too quickly.

I do have good memories of Otis. My dad was an SP so as a kid everyone knew Lee Sr.'s son. It was great to have almost free run of the tar mat during open houses and stuff. My fondest memory was my dad taking me to the runway earlier in the morning, me still a little sleepy and still in my PJ's and we watched a squadron F4s "Light the Candle" on take off. What an awesome site.

Lee

Lee,
Guess I misunderstood....That's something to look into but after looking at Dick Pettit's cub with the same engine I see no enlarged exit hole. I have pictures of other DPM cubs and see none there either? Perhaps Dick Pettit can better answer that question.

I hear you on the early morning flights....what I liked about that time of day was the tails of F86's sticking just above the fog on the runway and you couldn't see the rest of the plane, talk about a picture!

Bud
Here are pics of my exhaust tube bending attempt. I tried using K&S brass tubing, but I couldnt get them soft enough not to kink after annealing them with a torch. You should see the pile of scrap tubing I have. Also is a pic of the tail brace that I used instead of the wires in the kit. Not quite like the full scale ones you posted earlier, but better than the kit wires IMHO. Did you ever get the PM I sent in my last trip to Laytonsville? Sometimes my Spam filter doesnt recognize RCU.

I'm having trouble getting the pic to post????

Hi Ric,
Yes I did get your pm,thanks. When you post pics did you go to the bottom of your message area when you hit reply? Click on where it says "click here to upload". I went to home depot and bought the 19" long x 3/8" bathroom pipe that hooks up from the water jacket to the line in. It's chrome plated copper and mine was $1.98...took me three of them to get it right and it will kink if you're not careful,mine did and I just squeezed it out as best I could on my vise. How's your progress? I'm now starting on the wing flaps and ailerons. Still need to buy a spinner.

Bud