Robert
The dimensions that I used are as follows:
Wood spacer = 1 3/16
aluminum channel mount = 7/8
Engine height = 4 3/4
Total from firewall to prop washer surface = 6 13/16
This build up gave me the 1/8 clearance from the back of the prop to the cowl.

I used a two piece spacer arrangement, wood and aluminum, as I described in my earlier post. The dowel stand off system described by Dick Petit in earlier posts is an easier way to do it, but I prefer a solid continous mounting surface for the engine that the metal channel provides, and I like the shorter mounting screws, although there are more of them. The wood spacer mounts to the firewall into the captive nuts that are factory installed, and the channel bolts to the wood spacer into brass inserts. I offset the channel mounting bolts from the engine mounting bolts so I can remove either piece as an assembly. There are holes drilled into the flange of the aluminum so I can come straight in with a hex key to undo the bolts. The result is a solid engine mount that would be a better protection for the engine if I ever do a "face plant" with the cub. This probably weighs more than the simple dowel stand offs, but I will need nose weight anyway, even with this setup. In another airplane using this arrangement, I was able to mount lead pieces directly to the metal channel to get advantage of a more foward placement. I dont think I will need balance weight on the cub once I install the on board glo system under the fuel tank. I hope this helps. I love this kit
Ric

Ric..

Thanks Ric, that will make it a lot easier to build. Nice looking engine installation.

Robert..

I'm nearing completion of my DPM cub and am wondering how I'm going to transport the wings. Now that I have the struts all adjusted I hate to pull them apart to fit in a wing bag. Anyone gave it some thought on how they are going to transport the wings?

Robert
Just an additional thought on the engine mount. If you decide to use a channel like I did, try to find one that is deeper than the one that I have (7/8). Ideally, the depth should be as close to the final standoff dimension that you need without having too thick a channel wall. Then you could use a short bolt through the lower flange into the firewall captive nuts, and short bolts through the upper flnge into the motor mount. The closer you get to the standoff dimension you need, the smaller the wood spacer box has to be. The goal is to avoid long bolts. Good design practice should load a bolt in only in tension and shear. whereas bending loads are detrimental. Its hard to avoid bending loads when you use long bolts, a large clamping surface helps.
Ric

Bud, thanks for the pics, your cub looks great, very scale. Your pics will help me out a lot, I will send my pics when I get more of it finished. Unlike the retired fellas in my club, hobby time is hard to come by, but I'l get there!

Thanks Handy Andy, Not true scale by any means for an arf but I hope to remedy that if I ever get my BUSA cub finished. I'm retired and still can't find the time i'd like to work on my models! I used to say when I retire i'm gonna build.....turns out that's true but it's house renovations, not models. I have so much to do now that i'm retired I don't know how I found time to work.

Has anyone seen these neat connectors from MAXX products? I have my flaps hooked up now and am using a two position switch on my radio and was planning on using a Y connector until I saw these....same as a Y but NEAT! I'll try to mount them (one for flaps and one for ailerons) on the bulkhead at the rear of the cabin. I love new toys.



Bud

Ric..

I went to home depot and got my C channel. The largest size was 3/4 of an inch. They did not have 7/8 C channel. do you mean i should use C channel that is 2" or larger instead of 3/4? I guess i will have to use the 3/4" since it was the biggest they had. Could you tell me how long the wood pieces were on your box? It looks like you epoxied 2 short pieces between 2 longer ones. Thanks

Robert..

Robert
I made the vertical wood piece 4 3/4" long, the horizontal was 2". This put the channel in the center of the wood spacer, and the length was enough to allow a straight shot with a hex wrench. It was also able to fit inside the cowl without shaving corners. What I meant with the channel height was to try to make as much of the standoff dimension come from the channel piece instead of the wood spacer. You will need to get around a total of around a 2" standoff from the wood and channel combined, using the OS 160. A smaller wood piece shortens the bolts needed to mount the wood spacer to the firewall. You can glue them instead, but I made mine removable. The problem with getting a deeper channel dimension is that with the limited stock that home centers carry, when you go up in size, the channel wall gets thicker too, and it gets out of proportion for our use. Taller channel sections with thin wall sections might be available from scrap pieces from aluminum storm window sections.

BUD, got my adapter BUT have had the ?? dry heaves - montezuma revenge going on, so haven't taken pict . The bushing did come with adapter, that goes in back plate BUT!!that OS 160
had a recess area in the orginal prop backing hub, which allows the Tru turn bushing to fall right thru the tru turn back plate ?? and reside in the recessed area - so it does not good holding the Tru Turn back plate concentric to prop shaft - gonna hve to find something else ie. bushing or something as long as the recessed area is - OTHER wise bushing with Tru Turn -simply slides on down prop shaft .. te

Bud, Maybe ya could give us a bit of description - as to what these neat connectors do and don't do ?? he he he ........te

Tom,
I'm confused on your adapter and since I don't have my tru turn spinner yet i'm really confused....best bet is to pm Dick Pettit, he has the 160 and a tru turn spinner, i'm sure he can set you straight. Those connectors are the same as a Y connector without having an actual Y in the wiring, there's a block that two servos plug into side by side and the other end (single male) plugs into your receiver. I think it just makes for a cleaner connection...there's enough wires dangling all over the place. I mailed Futaba and got an answer in 5 min.!! Can't beat that for customer service. I was finally able to disable my flap knob so now no worries of moving it by mistake while handling my transmitter. Hope you feel better. Don't forget your camera on your Alaska trip!

Hey Tom, If you call Tru Turn they can supply you with the correct 12mm adaptor for you. The hole in the spinner back plate should be 12mm also. I have the same engine combo also and it works great. Fired it up yesterday for the first time runs great.

Hey, Thanks for the note, was reading on the package " 8 mm" bushing Hmmm needs to be at least longer - 2 x as long , trying to figure "how" to upload a pict ?? think i got it ?? yep supplie bushing from TT falls right thru spinner backing plate , and sits in recess of org prop backing plate .. te

Bud, Thanxxx for the "enlitement" he he he Now I know what ya be speaking of [8D]
Futaba Bunch, always been nice / Helpful to me when calling about this 9 C . Say , you got
more "toys" then allowed.....te

Hey Bud, where's the pump outs. LOL Damm nice floats!

Hey PPW, You didn't see them??? he,he. Still have to do cables and water rudders....just stalling for time.

bud , drug out the cubbie to dewinterize, which means re engine and clean and ck over, in the mean time have decited to redecorate it as the wife had me do to several rooms in the house, Iam the builder jim from the begining of this thread, thought that assy jim was better at describing myself now that shes not wanting any thing to do with that smell, allergies!!!!! so ive been told. but ive looked over the avant scheam and decited that was to old, so after looking over yours, ill go with that one only where yours is blue mine will be black with some yellow pinstriping between the white and black, well see , good to see that your still at the cub assy, thanks assy jim

Tom,
put a bit of thin ca on the outside of the bushing while it is in the back plate of the spinner. Just make sure its flush on the prop side. No load front to back. Load is side ways spinning.
Carl

Hi Jim,
Is it time to dewinterize already? Gheez!! We had 70 deg weather yesterday so I washed the truck and when I got up this morning you couldn't even see across the street for the blowing snow! 3" and heavy duty 50mph winds. So you redocorated some rooms? That's what's slowing me down on the cub....we had all new windows put in and now I want to put all new wood trim around them, not to mention the wallpaper stripping and painting to finish [&o] I did manage to finish the wings and set my hi/lo rates, add aileron differential and put my flaps on a two position switch. Now it's on to the rudder and elev controls. Hope you'll post some pic's after you get your color scheme done. Hope it's warmer where you are. [8D]


Bud

bud, had one of those days about a week ago, hasnt ben nice since, snow wind and cold, they say the rest of this week, Iguess that warm day spurned the need to assy something, your really are coming along on yours, still thinking of pants? I see dave has the clipped version with pants now, still want the slow and low. better go its snowing again . Jim

Jim, I saw the clipped wing ad...purty aint it? I'm the low and slow guy too but still thinking about the pants, that's about it too...thinking. I'm just a kid in a candy store


Bud

Jim,
How did you route your antenna? I can't get it to slide through the supplied tube.


Bud

Bud- To get the antenna through the tube, I used a thin pushrod wire from a parkflier. I taped the antenna to the wire and pulled it through the tube.

A light coating of silicon lubricant on the antenna can help if it's getting hung up.


Pete