Thanks Jim, can't wait to get the paint on and graphics. Haven't ordered my edr yet but it's on the list. Anxious to hear your report after your four stroke meet on the 16th.



Bud

Test flew Brylee's Saito 150 powered plane yesterday. Took it easy, since tail brace wires still hadn't been installed yet (are they functional??), but can report plane's a great flyer. Off grass, very little rudder correction needed on initial roll-out during take-off. The 150 gets it off in 60 feet or so, and is more than enough power with normal cruising done at 1/2 throttle or less. Coordinated turns are much prettier than ailerons only (like all Cubs). Aileron response could be a little better, but rolls can be speeded-up by adding rudder (hey, this isn't an Extra ).

Went inverted briefly, and was surprised by how little forward pressure on the stick was required - a lot less than my Clark-Y winged Sig 1/4 scale Cub. Landings fairly uneventfull, like my Cub it prefers to be wheel landed rather than full-stall 3-pointer.

Plane looks awsome on a low'n slow fly by or touch'n go. Scale gear and struts generated lots of interest at field. Altogether a winning combination - I don't think Dave Patrick has EVER designed a bad plane!.

LUVBIPES, she flies good with the 150, good ,glad to hear that its not an an extra, and that the 150 is a nice choice, and didnt have to cut up the cowl, good luck and happy flites, wow patrick has dont it again!

Am I missing something or am I the only one who didn't get a top window? I have not read the booklet completely yet but saw no reference to it in the windows section.

It isn't mentioned in the manual but it's a squarish clear plastic sheet with 4 holes in the corners.

And those holes actually match up to the holes in the top of the fuselage!

What a concept!

Those holes quickly wore out on mine. I did use CA to strengthen them, but it didn't last long. I put some 2-56 blind nuts in mine and just use button head machine screws now.

-Ben

I guess I just didn't get one with my kit. Oh well, I can make one with 1/16" plex. Is it clear or colored?

Dick...in looking at the tru turn spinners I can't find one that will fit an 18" prop, do I have to specify? And also do I need the adapter nut for my OS 160. Thanks,
Bud

The top cover is clear. I think a smoke tinted cover would look better though.

Holes "wear out" ? They only hold the piece of plastic in place. Did you harden the wood threads with thin CA?

You have to special order the spinner to fit the prop you chose to use. An adapter nut may be necessary unless the OS 160 has a drilled hole in the end of the prop shaft.

Thanks Dick, I may have some smoke laying around, if not i'll get some from our plastics supplier. I used to work in plex. so should be fun again. Haven't gotten to the windows yet, still mounting the engine but was checking kit contents and realized I had no top window.

BUD, mine was in with the window bag.

Hey,Bud.Take a look at the mvvs 1.6 gasser.When compared to the g26,or the rcs either one ,it is tiny.I think it will fit.For their size ,these things are extremely powerful.make sure you get the latest red head model,though.See what you think of it,Richie.

Thanks builder Jim,
I found it...guess I didn't look close enough, never took the windows out of the bag.

Anyone have an idea of how much flight time you can get with an OS 160 and a 16 oz tank as opposed to the 20 oz most are using? I have a nice flat sullivan tank that will fit under the platform thats in there now with slight mods since I have to lower the tank due to the carb on the 160, this tank only comes in 16 oz. I can use the platform for my on board glow system if I need weight up front.

Richie, now you tell me I bought an OS 160 since I gave up on gas for this one. Worth looking at though, thanks.


Bud

I didn't care much for the dowel standoffs and much prefer this method....I weighed the box on my grams scale and it came out 2 oz. i'll be cutting the box area from the firewall and an area behind the engine from the 1/4 ply face mount. The sides are 1/8 ply. Should get it down to about an ounce added overall. Right now its just tacked in place.

BUD, nice job on the box, it is better than the dowels, reguires 2 1/4 cap screws. will think this over for the winter mods, to anwser your previous question, I ordered the accy pack from edr and that comes with the battery and twin boot wiring for the plugs, nice setup, plus the charger.

Thanks builder Jim, I'm mounting the engine the same way I did my G38 in my BUSA cub....T nuts from the inside of the box and 1/4-20 bolts thru from the inside with threads on the outside and bolt the engine with nylon insert aircraft nuts. Pulls against the T nuts. When I first tried to mount it I couldn't figure why when I lined up the center of the box with the center line of the firewall why it was not right, then I realized the box has to be offset due to the right thrust built into the firewall....with the offset this puts the center of the engine at the prop right on the center of the firewall duh! I e-mailed edr and Andy said the no hassle way to go if you don't like wiring is the way you went, I told him I didn't need the charger and he said they can ship without and just take the cost of the charger off. Aren't you about to get in the air with yours? The 16th right? Do we get a report that evening?

Very nice setup bud! Looks good! And yes I will try to post a thread that evening on how the flight's went and also I will post the finished aircraft pics aswell! Just a head's up on your model don't forget about throttle to cowl placement as we had to redo our entire setup on our throttle linkage. Because I missed the measurement by a 1/4 in and the cowl wouldn't line up. Jim had to go back and redo it. And I gave him a reason to harass me argh! (He ended up mounting the servo directly in line with the throttle arm)

Thanks Jon, I'll keep that in mind on the throttle.

Hi guys,

Back in town and back to the Cub.

Question, how do you feed the antenna wire down the tube provided???????? Tried vasaline, compressed air, twisting, help!!.

Thanks

Dr. Pepper

I threaded a very thin rod backwards up the tube, attached the antenna to it and pulled it back through.

Thanks but I tried this. If I push a rod from the rx tray all the way back it extends way beyound the hole in the bottom of the fuse. I assumed the hole was for the antenna, is it?

My problem is not having an opening available on both ends of the tube.

Is this wing hardware great stuff or what?

Hey guys, I got my Cub all completed and I must say she looks beautiful. I live in the east coast and with all this rain I'm just waiting for some good weather to maiden her. My Cub came in at an even 17 lbs. which seems a bit high to me although I'm sure she'll be fine with the Saito 150S upfront. I had to add 4 ounces of weight in the front for balance, but other than an on-board glow system, Dubro tailbraces instead of the wires, and scale Cub wheels, I've pretty much kept her stock. I'd like to get a feel for other weight figures out there, thanks.

OK, we went to the show and couldnt get the phone to let us hook up the so have to wait to post anything, besides being tues to say anything about this weekend, I think jon has trouble with the home unit , some virus got into his puter, so maybe thats why no responce or pics yet? plane is over powered with the 160, but as we do we dont use it, flys very good, but has slugish ail and rudder on approch, so maybe bring it in with some speed till you get used to it, we had the opp of grass or pavment, chose grass, take offs are nice, can be in the air as little as 20 ft but thats not cub flying, we get about 17 mins of flying with the 24 oz tank, landed and had about 1/4 tank left, wow the 160 is a nice eng , and the plane is one great flyer, glad to have in the hanger, any questions i will try to anwser the best i can JIM

What servos are you guys using for this PA-18?

I'm using Hitec TS70 MG....106.7 oz. torque on the elevator and rudder and TS59 61.1 oz. torque low profile on the ailerons and flaps.


Bud